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Patience. Patience. Patience.
Posted by
Blatboy
,
22 April 2012
·
37 views
Patience was never a strong trait of mine, at least when I'm obsessing on something. This MB-6582 project is certainly my main obsession right now, and I've run into another snag that I can only blame myself for.
I was not expecting to be able to get any work done last night, but the opportunity came up. So, I started putting in the tactile switches into the CS PSB. When working on the CS, I'm following Hawkeye's amazing tutorial thread. I rocked step 6 while in a zone of meticulousness and awareness.
I hit step 7, which just involved popping in the remaining switches without having to snip off any leads, and I got impatient. Maybe I was tired. I didn't re-read Hawkeye's instructions. I put in the switches and soldered them in record time. While I'll admit my soldering technique is getting pretty efficient, I didn't solder them on while my front panel was attached. The front panel will go on after about 40sec to a minute of fiddling. Hmmmmm. I don't think that will work for the JB-Weld step (I believe step 9 in the tutorial.)
So, let this be a lesson to you so that you don't make the mistakes I did here.
At 41 years old, you'd think I'd know by now. This is the price of being a still very excitable kid at heart, I suppose.
So, I have two options at this point.
I'm leaning towards #2. I sent an email to SmashTV to see if he can hook me up with just a CS board. We'll see.
Hawkeye, have you any words of wisdom?
I was not expecting to be able to get any work done last night, but the opportunity came up. So, I started putting in the tactile switches into the CS PSB. When working on the CS, I'm following Hawkeye's amazing tutorial thread. I rocked step 6 while in a zone of meticulousness and awareness.
I hit step 7, which just involved popping in the remaining switches without having to snip off any leads, and I got impatient. Maybe I was tired. I didn't re-read Hawkeye's instructions. I put in the switches and soldered them in record time. While I'll admit my soldering technique is getting pretty efficient, I didn't solder them on while my front panel was attached. The front panel will go on after about 40sec to a minute of fiddling. Hmmmmm. I don't think that will work for the JB-Weld step (I believe step 9 in the tutorial.)
So, let this be a lesson to you so that you don't make the mistakes I did here.
Read and follow directions.
Do not rush.
Have patience.
At 41 years old, you'd think I'd know by now. This is the price of being a still very excitable kid at heart, I suppose.
So, I have two options at this point.
- I could just go for broke and take a chance on mucking up my beautiful obnoxious new front panel. If I do this, every time I have to remove and replace the front panel from the CS board, it'll be a pain in the butt. However, once I finish this (assuming that me and my front panel survive the gluing stage) I shouldn't be needing to remove the front panel very much. I'll be too busy rocking out. (Famous last words)
- I could get a new CS board. I wouldn't need to order any new parts, as I have enough diodes and switches to populate another board. This option will pretty much ruin any chances of finishing this project in time for the concert.
I'm leaning towards #2. I sent an email to SmashTV to see if he can hook me up with just a CS board. We'll see.
Hawkeye, have you any words of wisdom?
In the glueing phase it would be nice, if the frontpanel could be easily attached, to avoid messing it up with glue blobs because of "attachment tries".
Also, attaching it will even get a little bit more difficult when the LEDs are in there, so it would be nice, if the tactile switches were aligned as well as possible... using flathead LEDs makes it even harder to "get them in", that is what a few people have reported...
So, if you ask me, don´t throw away your CS PCB - if the switches don´t fit perfectly, just snip the four pins of each switch off directly above the PCB with a wirecutter. Then remove each broken switch. Then use a desoldering pump pressed to the front side "around the pin remainders" and your soldering iron applied to the backside and suck the switch pin remainders through... no big deal and will leave you with clean holes for soldering the switches again... should be no problem at all, but you´d need a desoldering pump. I´ve done the same thing with an encoder I messed up in the "detention phase" and it worked perfectly.
Also, don´t underestimate the number of times you may want to remove the frontpanel from the CS PCB - e.g. if you want to change the display, or install knob backlight LEDs, or want to exchange a misbehaving encoder, all of which happened to me
Bye,
Peter