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  2. ModulBox

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    Construction d'un séquenceur,

    SEQ V4 midibox  (2016)

    http://ksir-diy.blogspot.fr/

    IMG_20161009_121758.jpg

     

    Après la construction de 2 contrôleurs midi le modulebox et le pushbox, je décide de fabriquer un séquenceur.

     

    Toutes les infos proviennent du site: Merci T.K.

     

    1ere étape, construction de la BOM, liste des pièces a commander

    En attendant la réception des circuits imprimés que j'ai commandé sur :

    J'essaye de créer moi même ces circuits imprimés sur kicad:

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0X-WnBiV-XXdldpQXRjWWpOcGM/view?usp=sharing

    schematique.

    après la schématique le routage:

     

    core.jpg

     

    import et commande chez https://easyeda.com/fr

    bottom_gerber-viewer.easyeda.com.png 

    top_gerber-viewer.easyeda.com.png 

    mix_gerber-viewer.easyeda.com.png

     

    Le 05 juillet 2016

    commande de composants effectuée chez mouser et reichelt selon la BOM suivante :

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0X-WnBiV-XXVzUzRnEtZXBOZjQ/view?usp=sharing

     

     

    Le 18 septembre 2016

     

    Réception des circuits imprimés du CORE stm32f4 que j'ai redessinés précédemment et fais fabriqués par https://easyeda.com/fr

    IMG_20160826_120857.jpg

    IMG_20160826_120829.jpg 

    Peuplage d'un PCB

    IMG_20160826_200721.jpg

    1er Test :) youpi ça s'allume :

     

    IMG_20160828_202615.jpg

     

     

    La face avant wilba n'étant disponible en vente sur aucun site, je décide de la redessiner sur kicad et c'est reparti pour une schématique :

     

    schematique.jpg

    routage:

    routage.jpg

    envoi pour commande à https://easyeda.com/fr

    gerber-viewer2.easyeda.jpg

    gerber-viewer.easyeda.jpg

    gerber-viewe3r.easyeda.jpg

    prévisualisation avec blender

    wilba%2B3d.jpg

     

    2 octobre 2016 ; Commande de PCBs reçue , 

    IMG_20160928_165735.jpg 

    Et c'est parti pour la soudure :)

    IMG_20160928_205329.jpgIMG_20160928_205320.jpg

    IMG_20160928_205246.jpgIMG_20160928_205308.jpg

     

     

    assemblage et test

    IMG_20161009_121730.jpgIMG_20161009_121758.jpg

    IMG_20161009_121822.jpgIMG_20161009_122453.jpg

    IMG_20161009_122521.jpgIMG_20161009_122537.jpg

    IMG_20161009_122432.jpg

     

     

    fabrication de la boite

    IMG_20160914_210911.jpgIMG_20160927_203124.jpg

     IMG_20160923_225739.jpgIMG_20160923_225758.jpg

     

    IMG_20160923_232317.jpgIMG_20160923_232437.jpg

    IMG_20160925_142307.jpgIMG_20160925_142424.jpg

     
  3. The Sequencer is finally up an running in his new Acrylic case ...

    Todo's ... adding a 5 Volt external PS for the STM32F4 instead of USB-cable and building the Frontpanel for the Line-Driverstuff

    20160803_144012.jpg

    20160803_143951.jpg

    20160803_143937.jpg

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    Nothing earth shatteringly different from the normal happening yet. I've just got my (very lovely) boards delivered from SmashTV and soldered them up, so here sit two STM32F4 cores (sans SD card hardware because it's not here yet)

     

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    Not much time this weekend But I managed to Solder up a few NEW DIN/DOUT boards. And the complication comes in the pinning of the new boards, the arrangement of the 2x5 header does not allow me to use my old 1x5 cables to the CS as wired in V3, due to the arrangement of the SR inputs. Not a big deal, off to the HW config file to do some editing (It was bound to happen sooner or later!).....

     

    Other observations on the New DIN/DOUT boards....It would be nice to have a bit more clearance to use shrouded (Box) headers, The I/O headers on the end overlap board mounting holes and the SR connections would have been too close on one of the boards IIRC. No big deal, I used the srouded headers on the SRIO chain, and normal ones on the I/O pins.

  4. mongrol

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    No blog entries yet

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    Recent Entries

    lucem
    Latest Entry
    The way Augmenter as a system is conceived cannot be easily explained in one sentence.
    The first thing to realize is that it is a whole guitar amplification system.
    It consists of several components, and this compartmentalization is what makes this doable, regardless of the size of the circuit.

    So let's run down the signal chain.
    Starting from the guitar and cable, we arrive in the first major building block, which is the pedalboard unit.
    This consists of several analog fx pedals, a BOSS GT-8 multi-effects unit, a DI and ReAmping interface, and the digital circuitry involved in making the connections between those parts.

    From there on, by means of a balanced feed of several meter length, we move into the actual amplifier. this one consists of two booster stages, level adaption circuitry, another DI-Interface, four preamp channels with flexible tone stacks, two effects loops, two output EQs, and several types of power amplifiers, so output power can be selected due to the prevalent environment.
    And, of course, there is some digital control means implemented here as well, interconnected by MIDI with the pedalboard, or controlled by any other MIDI controller for that matter. So, in essence, there will be two cables running between the pedalboard and the amp head, and that's it.

    That's the system I have in mind, and right now I'm feverishly drawing up circuit diagrams to design the components of this system.
    My personal goal is to make all this fit onto a single 155 square inch circuit board to order from goldphoenix, which I would seperate into individual modules manually,
    and build any missing stuff on perfboard.
    The midibox NG seems like the right start to base the pedalboard switching system on, and the money is still out on the (somewhat simpler) amplifier switching system.
    If I manage to obtain a crossbar switch IC, I will use that as a rather elegant switching solution.

    The power amps I have in mind and that I'd like to implement are LM386, TDA1517, TDA2003 (or TDA 2050) and LM3886. I opt for integrated power amplifiers because, in all fairness, they offer way better quality than anything that can be discretely built (as long as you provide proper cooling and won't let them clip).
    Tubes are out of the question for me; however much I like the sound of tubes, they're just a pain in the ass to get right, and the heat and inevitable wear makes them very problematic.
    One thing I want to avoid like the plague is ground loops, and thus every connection between independently powered devices (pedalboard, amp head, GT-8, ReAmp input, D.I. outputs) is isolated by using signal transformers, eliminating any chance of forming a hum loop.
  5. Wisefire
    Latest Entry

    Alright, another update is due.

    While waiting on some other things to arrive (PICs and CS pcb) i thought it was a good idea to finish some other projects. So i removed some detents from encoders and I received 25 lego pegs, dremeled them in two, glued them on tactswitches, some more dremeling and put on my custom rubber caps.

    blogentry-4124-0-93724300-1387240323_thu

    And today i visited a good friend with a lasercutter.

    blogentry-4124-0-23144300-1387240359_thu

    And cut out the frontpanel out of triplex wood.

    blogentry-4124-0-35620700-1387240395_thu

    Sanded it down and put on somespray laquer, this is the result.

    blogentry-4124-0-50923700-1387240408_thu

  6. Hi everyone I’m back and my project too.

    It was not easy. Not because of the technical issues, just bad karma.

    In 2011/2012 I made a working firmware and a manager under Max/MSP.

    Because of personal reasons, I put the project on hold.

    End of 2012, I received a message from Eptheca who asked me the status of the project.

    With his help we decided to print 3 PCB’s. Unfortunately during this period, the hard drive of my computer suddenly decided to leave me, and I lost all my work: ((

    I sent the drive to Shanghai to try to recover my data, but of course my disc was one of the non-recoverable 10% (always this bad karma).

    So now we had the box and the electronics but nothing to put in it.

    In February I decided to rewrite everything but it took me some time.

    ...

    Done!

    We've now got a new firmware and the application to manage the box.

    I am inspired by the version 1 MB-SID.

    I kept all the features of this engine.

    I improved the management of banks, I dedicated two envelopes to the voice of the TIA which is free, and a few small details that might please you.

    Here is the features of it:

    • 1 dedicated envelope for each voices(so 2) with optional non-linear curve and Sync which can be assigned to Amplitude and pitch. 3 specifics Mode to mix Modulation matrix and this env
      Env+Mods, Env*Mods, Env+(Env*Mods).
    • 2 additional envelopes with optional non-linear curve and Sync which can be assigned to Amplitude and pitch.
    • 4 additional LFOs with different waveforms and Sync which can be assigned to Amplitude and pitch.
    • Pitch Bender
    • Portamento/Glide function with Optional "Constant Time Slide".
    • Delays
    • 1 Arpeggiator for each voice(so 2) with optional Sync.
    • Poly, Mono and Legato Mode
    • Separate keyboard zones for each voice (key splitting) allows to play voices separately
    • Extended Mode for keys(all note reponse) or non extended with offset and length.
    • 1 velocity response for each voices (so 2) with optional CC assignment
    • Free controller assignments to Modulation Wheel and Aftertouch
    • LFOs, Envelopes, Arpeggios optionally syncable via external MIDI clock (one for each;)
    • BankStick support (4 banks of 128 sound patches per stick, up to 8 can be connected) so 32 banks.
    • And much more.

      Coming soon:

      • wave and CC sequences which allow more percussive sounds (Wavetables) with dedicated banks.
      • Drum or Fx Kit Presets with dedicated banks.
      • 8 Analog I/O
      • 4bit sampling ;)
      • Atari 2600 Joystick and Video touch pad support.

      There's no CS on the cartridge version, but there's enough room in FW to add it. If someone wants to create it, you are welcome. This firmware is only for 18f4685.

      You can add MB-Link too if you need it, PORTA.0-7 and PORTB.0-3 share 8 I/O on the AUX connector.

      No CS; but I designed a Max/MSP Application (windows and Mac compatible):

      And it has iDevice support(sorry for those who boycott Apple products):

      I'm trying to finish a Max4Live version, with a common file between both applications that will retrieve the names of banks, patches and all parameters without having to open the input of the midi track and make a CC request (there's no SysEx in Ableton Live).

      Now i suppose you want to hear it:

      Listen on Soundcloud.com

      Voilà!!! :smile:

  7. The missing socket arrived this morning. Full of will power I waited until after the days work was done before getting out the now rapidly declining box of bits. Socket in, C64 PSU tested, 9V tested good, so was ready to go. Small glitch until I realised that I had to change the core ID in MIOS Studio too, then all loaded smoothly. Fitted the 6852's one pair at a time, and ran through the sound banks, with a silly grin just getting wider on my face.

    Still got a minor bit of front panel work to do, (3 spacers came unglued), and a little bit of fault tracing - the mix out doesn't seem to be working, but all is good, and the only last bits I need are 4 knobs for the feedback pots.

    Now a lot of reading and learning to do. This thing is a small cased sound mainframe and I want to be able to drive it as it deserves.. Love the way my Korg Kontrol 49 keyboard loops up to a lot of the front panel controls too.

    So very grateful to TK and Wilba for this.

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    Bonjour,

    Je me présente, je suis Nicolás, guitariste acoustique et passionné par les possibilités du MIDI depuis mon plus jeune age, même si j'ai découvert plus tard que je ne pouvais pas brancher mon joystick sur le synthétiseur de papa :smile:

    Je me pose actuellement quelques questions concernant la gestion d'appareils midi depuis un écran tactile, et j'aurai besoin de quelques renseignements pour aller plus de l'avant:

    • Etant donné que je me dépatouille plutot en Macromedia Flash: où trouver de la doc pour communiquer via midi?

    • Comme je suis nase en éléctronique: comment adapter les modules proposés par le fantastique site de uCApps pour pouvoir leur intégrer une interface tactile? Genre un convertisseur de potentiomètre virtuel en valeurs physiques...

    • points suivants à venir, n'ésitez pas à participer...

    Voila, merci de vos réponses et de vos suggestions. A très bientôt!

    Nicolás

  8. When interfacing a Joystick, Modwheel or Pitchbender it is sometimes found that the voltage range on the potentiometer output is well inside the range of the Core ADC input.

     

    This can often be overcome with digital calibration in the firmware (e.g MIDIbox KB) in some cases there is extreme loss of resolution.

     

    Presented here is a circuit to overcome this to give the ADC the full range (in this case 0..3.3V) even though the range of the potentiometer is well inside this.

    The design process is very easily done following this app note:sloa097.pdf 230.01K 12 downloads

     

    I've done a spreadsheet to make it even easier!Scale Offset.zip 2.45K 9 downloads If you don't have MS Excel, you can use it with free tools Google Docs, or Open Office.

    To use the speadsheet you enter numbers into the blue fields. The input range at the top as measured on your pot. In preparing the examples, I played with the value of Rg2 so that Rg2+R1 came close to 10k. This allowed to replace them with a 10k trimpot as in the example circuits. It was just as well, as the trimpot did require some tweaking away from the calculated values, I found.

     

    I chose LM324 op amp as it's output goes down very close to 0V. It's maximum possible output with a Vcc=5V is about 3.5V which should be quite safe with a 3.3V Core ADC such as LPC17 MBHP Core.

    There are 4 op amps in this device, so 4 scaling/offset circuits can be implemented with 1 chip.

     

    Here's the circuit with 2 worked examples:

    large.gallery_3440_57_56775.jpg.0e0c4e2fgallery_3440_57_56775.jpg

     

    Here's the test (input on left, output on right) showing 3 points (Modwheel example):

    gallery_3440_57_231579.jpg

     

    Here's another test (input on left, output on right) showing 3 points (Pitchbender example):

    large.gallery_3440_57_53502.jpg.06f50ce1

    ExModwheel.jpg

    Appnote Cct with Examples.jpg

  9. It's been a while since I've been able to work on any electronics projects, and while I've been I've been so slammed that I I've not been able to finish my last touches. (Filter pots, mix out, power LED... stuff like that)

    Starting next Tuesday, I'll have at least one recording session every week in my studio until sometime around mid 2014. Being that I'm already so slammed, my life, as far as my "hobby" projects go, will be over, for all practical purposes, until then. Therefore, I thought I'd try to get these last few touches installed before the onslaught of work starts.

    I'll admit I've been dragging my feet a little on this. My box never really worked that well. Notes would stick, cores would randomly go offline (especially if I had more than 2 cores installed) I could use it in the studio, (if it did something freaky, I'd just re-record) but it wasn't reliable to use in a live performance...which was my original inspiration to build this. It was suggested that a nice new linear power supply would be the fix. I don't have the chops at the moment to design and build one of those, and with my new job, I feel I won't have the time to learn... so I figured I'd just have to live with a MB-6582 with some intense personality quirks (much like it's owner) and not use it in a live performance situation. I've certainly learned a lot and had a blast building it, so it wouldn't be a total loss.

    Last night as I was preparing to cut some ribbon cable for the remaining filter pots, I noticed that the J1_SID1 and J2_SID2 jumpers were set for 12V. I'm rockin' 8580's! I had a really good feeling that I had found the problem!

    Initial testing proves correct. It seems to be working better than ever. I still need to test with a full load of 8 SID chips in it, but it's working great with four chips now. Hopefully the fact that I've been using it for the last 6 months or so with the incorrect voltage on SID1 hasn't damaged the first two SIDs. I don't typically leave it on for very long at a time (the longer it was left on, the more quirky it used to act) so, maybe I'm cool.

    This was yet another somewhat embarrassing oversight on my part. (This blog and my posts are chunk full of those.) Well, maybe my willingness to publish my mistakes will help someone troubleshooting in the future.

    I will eventually replace the old C64 power supply by building a linear power supply. I want my SIDs to last. But there is no way I'll have the time to get the expertise and do the build any time soon. However, as the old axiom goes: When you've got the time, you don't have the money...and when you've got the money, you don't have the time. Anyone feel like building me a power supply? :tongue:

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    Sasha
    Latest Entry

    I`m back after long time out of MB community and doing electronics in general. I have quite a few unfinished projects that needs some attention. In most cases it is just building housings and final touches, but still a lot of work. I feel bit rusty now, but I`ll catch what I`ve missed. See you around! ;)

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    Recent Entries

    MIDIbox has been a big deal to me, for a long time. While I’ve built a few MIDIbox projects over the years, I always wanted to be a bigger contributor, and there has always been something in my life to stop me.

    Over the past few years my marriage has taken a big shit all over my life. I find myself with great ideas, only unable to fully realize them because of the amount of trouble in my life, particularly because I just couldn’t seem to get along with my wife.

    I am not suggesting for a moment that MIDIboxing should be more important to anybody than the sacred institution of marriage, but … sometimes people will find that their creative life is being stifled by forces like an ill-chosen partner. Such is the case with me.

    I don’t want to go too far into the gorey details here., other than to say that I have been very hot and cold with the MIDIbox community for the past 4 years or so. What I have done has been with the very best of intentions: I have organized multiple bulk orders and I have contributed interesting designs and ideas. But it is difficult to properly see these things to full fruition when your emotions are forever being tugged by external forces.

    I’m telling you now, with mixed emotions, that about two months ago my wife and I finally separated. While this is a sad time in my life for obvious reasons, it is also very liberating. Finally I can tell the truth: the reason why I was often hard to reach, and I was sometimes (very) late in delivering on stuff that I promised, is that I have been completely consumed by marital breakdown.

    Sometimes it took me a very long time to ship things like knobs, after having made deals in good faith. While I have long since straightened everything around with everybody who may have ever had issues, I never really offered any good explanation other than “personal issuesâ€.

    Well today I am glad to announce freely that I have no more personal issues. I finally left her about 2 months ago, and I am no longer looking back. It will still take a bit longer before I achieve the participation level I always wanted with the MIDIbox community, and my own DIY projects, I am finally able to breathe a sigh of relief. I will finally have the time to devote to these things without judgement or undue punishment.

    I really don’t want to sound like I have chosen MIDIbox over marriage. Rather, I have chosen not to be unreasonably judged with no basis or standards, by an individual with no right to do so. This encompasses not only my “Synth DIY†activities, but also the artistic rationale that allows me to freely create.

    Without trying to explain everything that has gone wrong in my life, I am offering a sincere apology to all those who unnecessarily waited months for a few knobs, and to those who have received my (attemptedly constructive) critiques on their concepts and designs without detailed followups.

    I have lots to offer this amazing community, and I am saddened that the value of my verbage has been continuously compromised by my scarcity. Little by little I will be returning in the months to come. Once I get my new home and new workshop in order, I hope to be able to participate with more regularity and loyalty than I ever have.

    In other news, my stage name is no longer “nebulaâ€. I have recently been working with a Canadian label who will be releasing some of my music under my actual given name: Steve Cowan. I’ll keep nebula for forums and maybe later as a musical alter-ego, but I’m excited to finally have an opportunity to get my music out to a larger audience, under any name. (FYI: when I join forums and find that “nebula†is already taken, I’ve been registering as “infindebulaâ€.)

    I have also started a blog site to publicize the efforts of myself and other nearby artists. Have a look at juggernautmusic.com to see what we’ve been up to. The site is active now, but will officially “launch†sometime over the next few months.

    Thanks for listening, my fellow MIDIboxers. I’ve always enjoyed being a part of this community, and I can’t wait to play a bigger part in the years to come.

  10. taximan
    Latest Entry

    Beat 707 in and out also gorf2 (needs a new cs making),meeblip and shruti.

    blogentry-7091-0-21510300-1349991314_thu

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    pilo
    Latest Entry

    Hi everyone!

    It's my first entry on my first blog!

    I'm "working" in midibox for about 10years now. I found ucapps.de website when I was looking for a way to build a midicontroller (I have tried before, using some 80C51, or thinking about other crappy design). I was a student at time and I was dreaming about building a custom midicontroller, at low cost (student = no money!!).

    Through the first years, I managed to find cheap parts for building such controller, but I waste so much energy in finding those, that I almost gave up on building the unit. I also work on other DIY projects at the same time (if you look in the forum, you will find a thread about EMU10K1 hacking, or how to add inputs to a SBlive. This turned into a DIY ADAT interface. But that's another story ;)).

    Anyway, since a few month now, I'm trying to get back on midibox stuff, and finish it! Things have changed a lot since I started. It was a PIC16f877 core back in 2002, then PIC18F452, and now we've got 32bit ARM!! Also, we can now find a lot of sexy components, encoder, switch with caps, nice LCD for very little money.

    I will be using this blog to show how I build my midibox LC, and mostly how I resolved issues. As I first tried to bring the motorfader back to life, I noticed 2 main issues (one about the dust protection preventing them from working correctly, and another about differences in position for the same value). If someone, someday, had the same trouble, I hope this blog can help him!

    P.S. : Please forgive me for my bad english. I'm french, and so, sometimes, I can make mistakes :)

    Pilo

  11. First of all, gotta say - sorry - no pictures, my crappy htc phone is at repair, and I have no card reader for that tiny mem card in the computer, so pictures gotta come later on, I have em, but phone crashed before I could load them onto the computer :)..

    This saturday i have been working a lot on the model. A heavy dose of "bondo" to fix some mistakes I made while sanding the release-edge on it.

    To make sure all the surfaces was even (it's hard to feel every tiny uneven bump in the wood / bondo with the fingers - even hard to look for them), I sprayed it with a extremely light coat of red paint and started sanding it with 240 grit and a very even sanding block. this way I can sand the tops off there, and the "valleys" are left red colored :). Then I can sand more if it's not much or I can fill in some more with bondo. I did both methods on the box depending on how serious it was. Smart trick I learnt from an auto painter I know.

    After sanding the entire box, making sure every little error was corrected, i resprayed it with the same red color, now two heavy coats. That is how far I got this saturday.

    Now i am going to sand it first with 240 grit to remove the "orange-skin" which is hard to avoid using cheap spraycans and a non-controlled enviorment :P. Surface will then become all flat and smooth. Then I am gonna wet sand it with 800 grit to make it even smoother.

    Then I hit it with the car-wax. If that's not enough to make it shine, I'll give it a round with my angled polisher. When that is done, the surface should be very pianofinish-like.

    The paint is really just to seal off the wood, so that release wax will do it's job properly. but since I'm using gelcoat as part of the finish on the box when I cast it, it doesn't hurt if the surface is as perfect as it can be on the model - polishing it like this aint really nessecary if u don't care that much for that job :P. But it will probably mean more work later on anyway...

    So if my guess is right, I'm done with the model this week, then I head to the plastic workshop to get some epoxy around it. If I get hold of the right kinda gelcoat within this week, I actually might be able to start to make the real case this weekend. well... that would be sunday - saturday I'm playing in a wedding :P.

    Now time for a nap after work / dinner :) have fun!

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    tonedef
    Latest Entry

    Got a whole big box of parts from SmashTV! Finished all the modules except for the core, which I'm working on now. It's going together fast; I must say these PCB's are very nicely done...

  12. Zossen
    Latest Entry

    got a broken Farfissa + a working Yamaha :frantics:

    blogentry-5641-0-55380800-1338916723_thu

    the Farfissa will be for Parts and the Yamaha maybee too but its working so i think its better to clean and sell it.

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    Freaky Speaker

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    Effekt

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    yamaha

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    Farfissa

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    blogentry-5641-0-48139700-1338919780_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-36182000-1338919833_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-81261800-1338919855_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-35240400-1338919872_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-35717000-1338919907_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-05342800-1338920041_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-30129100-1338920060_thu

    blogentry-5641-0-63672800-1338920125_thu

    Its a good base for the next VST Controller

    The Power Supply , Amp (2x30 Watt STK465 ) and the Speakers (2x30cm Full Range) are working fine (reusing the Cinch Terminal :) )

    Maybe a good combination as the next Active Speaker, the front part of wood for the speakers will be left ofter the Top Part gets cuttet from the rest,

    so just a part of the case will be missing.

    Is anybody interested in the Analog Audio PCB's than please PM to me.

    Its the Farfisa 304 Silver Soundboards

    -Delay Lines

    -Rhythm Analog Generator

    -Rhythm Digital Generator

    -Bass & Arpeggio Filter

    -Monophonic Filters

    -Orchestra Filters

    -LM UM Flutes Filters

    -Generation

    - Controls

    -Rhythm Module

    Each PCP inkl. Datasheet & Partlist

  13. geth
    Latest Entry

    Hi!

    Today I got my membrane-Potentiometers (100mm-Hotpot) from Watterott. I had to wire a 10k resitor to between the "wiper" and ground. If this is not done, when the membrane is not touched it, and therefore the AD-converter-input, doesn't have any scecified contact with ground or 3.3V so it will send random signals, which cannot be filtered. With the 10k resitor, the value will be zero when the membrane is not touched, but this can easily be filtered by software.

    Like this the pot works quite well, no jittering. I have a round one and 8 linear potentiometers.

    blogentry-10781-0-49988500-1338575103_th

    I also got pressure sensitive resitors (sadly I did not manage an own post for it, I was rahter busy).

    Very simple wireing, just the pressure sensitive resitor between 3.3V and the AD-input and a 10k resitor between the input and ground. This works quite good and is fun to press =).

    blogentry-10781-0-10592200-1338575082_th

    I also got my 100 mini-arcade-buttons, yeah!

    blogentry-10781-0-00571000-1338574967_th

    Greetings geth

    blogentry-10781-0-00571000-1338574967_th

    blogentry-10781-0-10592200-1338575082_th

    blogentry-10781-0-49988500-1338575103_th

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    Recent Entries

    gslug
    Latest Entry

    OK, so it isn't a MIDIbox yet, but I intend to add a Jef's sequencer so that it becomes an MB-9090. I pretty much forgot to take any photos during the build as I was too busy soldering. Here are a few pictures of the finished PCBs and their wonderful hideous cardboard base and panel. I intend to design a desktop case for it once I have the sequencer.

    blogentry-9872-0-19050200-1333246806_thu

    Board 1 part finished - the only build photo I took.

    blogentry-9872-0-17217500-1333246892_thu

    The completed board 1

    blogentry-9872-0-56358800-1333246931_thu

    The completed board 2

    blogentry-9872-0-03947700-1333247001_thu

    The cardboard "case"

    And finally, a bad video of the 9090. I'll have to do a better one (and work out how to embed youtube videos!)

    gslug

  14. jojjelito
    Latest Entry

    Finally mounted all the PCBs on one of the 2 more or less identical modulars we're building over at the labs. I made some 2cm (0.787 inches if you prefer mongoloid units of measurement) thick strips of brass. Those were perforated with a 10mm hole so that they can sit between the pots and the front panel, then I added a small hole for the M3 screw that fixes it all in place. 2 strips per card ends up in too much metal shop for my liking but the end result is surprisingly sturdy.

    We opted for using lots of internal (in-panel) wiring as there are enough wires flying to and from the panel as is. The method of mounting the PCBs for all the modules near their panel space made for short cable runs.

    Now we ended up with one modular with an almost finished pre-wired front panel, one where all the synth PCBs sit where they should. Add the cabinet holding the PSU, add the MB-SEQ PCBs in the top panel of the cabinet, debug beyond the basic short/continuity tests done and we should get some tunage. Grr, it's a long trip but I see the train headlights emerging at the end of the tunnel!

    Basically, the mechanical (BORING!) aspects of it all takes up nearly the same time as the electronics. Le sigh... But, it will make weird sounds soon whistle.png