Scifo

I have issues with my Alpha encoders that I bought from Mouser. For example, if I turn CUTOFF clockwise going from 000 towards 255, it sometimes jumps a few steps counter-clockwise randomly now and then along the way, which is extremely annoying. If I turn the knob really slow, I don't have this problem. If it's the encoders fault or a solder/building issue, I cannot tell.

Hey guys! It's ready! Stuffed with two 6581s, and also has the option to use 8580s, hence the "SID 6581/8580" on the panel. The 6581/8580 filter caps have sockets for easy replacing. I'm very happy with how the panel turned out, using the old C64 rainbow logo. I decided from the beginning to exclude the matrix, since I haven't really used it on the first MB we built. It turned out to be a lucky decision, because when we were about to install the OLED display, it was too much sunk into the panel, leaving an ugly gap between the display and the panel. So dad moved the OLED to the "matrix-area" and changed the connections, so the OLED display is now really nicely lined up along the panel. I also wanted to the have the display tactile switches on the left side of the display, because I always use my left hand on the box, so when I press those switches, my hand is not blocking the view of the display, which would be the case if they were on the right side. Again, me and dad would like to thank TK & Co. for all the help. Could never have built this without your help. Sound demo: https://soundcloud.com/bobengstrand/c64-stereo-synthesizer-demo Some pics:

Hey TK, thanx for the reply. That SHIFT-thing sounds like a good solution. First I thought that holding down SHIFT would make the 1-15 value knobs go too fast, but I noticed they are not affected by holding SHIFT. Only the "long" values (0-255 etc) are affected by SHIFT. This is great news, so I will definitely try to edit that .inc-file and build a HEX-file so the MB will have the SHIFT activated by default. I let you know if I need any help doing that. Thanks again. Scifo

Anyone?

Hey guys! Situation: I have the CUTOFF filter completely closed. To open it fully I need to turn MANY laps on the CUTOFF filter encoder to reach the max value. I suppose this is normal, since holding down SHIFT while turning the knobs increases the rate significantly. BUT, I'm playing at the same time so I have only one hand free. My questions: Is there a hex-file or such I can edit so the dent-to-value-amount increases? So I can open the filter on that amazing bass to the max with 1 lap instead of 9. I tried looking for this before I posted, cause I have a feeling I've read somewhere that you can edit a file to change this, but I couldn't find any info. Thanks in advance for your help. /Scifo

We're almost done with the MB 6582, but ran into a problem. Tactile switches marked 1 and 2 (check the attached photo) are not working (no changes on the display when pushing them and the belonging LEDs don't lit up). Everything else on the board is working. The rest of the tactiles, the encoders, the LEDs, the OS - everything is working except these two tactiles. Since we decided that we won't build a matrix on this one, we've excluded all the components inside the green lines (corner of the board). No LEDs, no tactiles, no matrix - nothing. Will this affect the tactile switches marked 1 and 2 (tactiles at Oscillator WAVEFORM and OSCILLATOR). EDIT: SOLVED!

Guten Abend Torsten! You are the King, I must say. I am Scifo´s father and I am using his password to write to you. Me (living in Sweden) and my son (in Finland) have been working together on two MB-6582 projects. (Skype is a great thing) The first project went very smooth due to all the fantastic information from all of you guys in the forum; Hawkeye, Wilba and others. I have been into the tube amp business for many years, but this is a totally unknown field for me. Soldering and follow schematics - no problem. But in this digital world I am lost. My son wanted a OLED display in his box but we went into a problem. We spent hours, no, days, trying to solve the problem. 8-bit, 4-bit, 8-bit again and back to 4-bit... Today we got your message and resoldered pics, pins and loaded the LCD-file. WOW, what a nice display! Thank you so much for your assistance. Again - you are the King. Best regards, Björn

The Vintage sysex bank is installed and encoders/tactiles are all working, but we have an issue with the OLED display. We don't have any text on it what so ever. The model we have is from Electronic Assembly, model nr EA W204-XLG. Datasheet here http://www.lcd-module.com/fileadmin/eng/pdf/doma/olede.pdf Please don't tell me we've wasted our money... :no:

The problem written above was solved after we installed all the ICs, the PIC and the two SIDs. I guess some of these components "helps" the caps to drain (?). Anyhow, problem solved. The hex-file has been installed and we hear a nice boot-up jingle. Now we go on to finish off the control surface. We found an LCD with black background and yellow text - just like I wanted. Crystalfontz has one just like that, but we managed to find a company in Sweden who sold the same. We did the PSU Option B, so we can change between 9v and 12v with a jumper, and the filter caps are not soldered - they are installed in a socket, so changing will be easy.

Things are moving forward! Now we hit the first bump on the road. When I turn on the power switch, all voltages are OK, but when I turn off and on again quick there are no voltage at all. Off again and wait approx 30-60 seconds, everything is OK. It seems that the electrolytic capacitors need to drain between on and off. Anybody had this problem? Thanks in advance.

I would like to make the front panel as small as possible, so I want to leave out the matrix LEDs. Are there any complications by doing so?

Hey guys, I came here through a simple Google search of the serial number on a 6581 chip in my computer. It's the 6581 5084 Korea AH395568 2. Could there be more chips with this exact number, or is this the same chip you, toadstool, was selling? Just curious.

So we've decided to use SmashTV's base board and build the top board ourselves, to fit the breadbox front panel. I like the front panel in this project http://www.subatomicglue.com/sidl0g/ The only difference is that I would like to completely skip the 8x8 matrix (I have it on my MB-6582 and I never seem to use it), and I'll use a 4-row LCD instead of a 2-row being used here.

It doesn't seem like SmashTV has a 2-SID-socket board, so I'm planning to order the 6582 boards, which I already know how to put together. The top board won't fit a C64-case front panel (i suppose), but we're thinking of actually cutting out the top board and place them where they need to be to fit the front panel. We'll order the boards only - not the parts list since these can be found here in Scandinavia. Would it be enough to order one preburned PIC since we're only going to use 2 SIDs?