Phatline

by RM you meen a Ringmodulator-coil? if you can provide some specifications, i can make special Program for Ringmodulator Coils (these have a center tip on the secondary? and no center tip on the Primary? what comes in my mind: what kind off Iron-Core?, many off windings, 1:1 or is this a 1:2 because off center-tip?, wire-diameter, a Center-Break in the Program? maybe this could be managed too moove the Feeder with max speed to get something like this: START winding |.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......| First Layer: >||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Next Layer:<||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Next Layer:>||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Last Layer:<||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| CENTER winding< |.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......| Next Layer:>||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Next Layer:<||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Next Layer:>||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Last Layer:<||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| END winding< |.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......| at the end it will look like this: |.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| then Paint the Coil and dry it out - except off the " |.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......|.......| " Part which can be unwindet by hand, so you have then there 3 Wires to solder to the PCB... without breaking the Program - and fiddle arround at all... (aka no tension problems...) @benuron > the V-groove Rolls-Array make enough tension > at least for Tesla, or low-ampere Audio-Coil-Stuff (aka small Diameter CopperWire). But i have some thougts about the Point were it Toggle the direction this is may be a critical point indeed...

its not in the code yet, since tesla coil needs only one layer. but to add a new mode is not difficult... just toggle the direction pin when a ammount off turns are arrived - i can add this... tell me when and if you begin to.build a winder - or do i missunderstand and you just need some coils to be windet?

Hei Code, BOM, Shemata, and some Pictures are documented here http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=coilwinder The rest is documentadet with this Video in ENGLISH: or GERMAN: - mike.

no clue... since my knowledge is need to know (me also having a hard time to absorb mios...coming more from a musical background then from programming...learnd c while exploring mios...) but maybe it is a midi mutex thing? combined with a buffer?

i dont have a generic midicontroller code for the blm... i run my project "triggermatrix" on it which is in first case a note processor, in 2nd a sequencer, in 3rd a midigroovebox(without audio). for the blm part i used the blm-scalarcode and stripped it down, and mooved it into the main.c. when the blm-pcb gets into its final revision (aka oneside is pick and place - and a bulk order is on its way) i can provide a skeleton project... i am a bit busy... so thiswill take a while

an arp needs the seq.c .. at least i would use it. in the seq.c i would build a simple counter 1 2 3... 1 2 3.... which only starts when aFLAG is high (aka note was pressed) ... where the max is (3) is set by a global variable which itself is set in the main.cin your UI depending on your arp steps (up dow up...upup up down)....the counters output in seq.c i would send into your arp task to trigger events.... if donewith arp stuff/or released the keypress then i would set the FLAG low, so the seq is stopped putting out triggers. i dont want to release the triggermatrix code since noone but me can understand - and the only usecase then left is thata company pirates it

cant say... what are you trying.to do?

hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)

yes i can share it... will take a while... do you want to use it in a button-led-matrix "scalar" way?

the buttons have a scan matrix... - i dont know if i remember correct by debugging such devices > if a LED is dead then that scan off buttons is also bad... i sugess: check if all leds are lighting up correctly. By the way this tactil switches - dont last forever, they are the cheapest and badest parts ever (ok, i think so...) ... could be that they are end off live alreday. @ blank screen > do you mean it is blanked when connected to the Master-Core (the Core with ID0)? when this happend to me, it was bad solderpoints... on the Core-PCB This PCBs have some design errors - not in sense of routing - but in sense off Thermal-Distress, often and speciall on the Ground-Vias it sucks so much Heat away to the groundplane whille soldereing, so you you have a bad or no contact...., when resolder those Pins remove the ICs first > so they dont get an Heat-Death... then Solder very hot and long! (first on the pad then on the pin... use a good soldering iron) On the very oppiste on the LED: , they are very Heat sensitive... if you resolder a LED do it short and with less Heat.... and when you start to demage them its harcore to desolder and replace them without demage the PCB, this is also a weak point off these ReD-Pcbs often vias liften up or whole traces (bigger vias would be good so the desolder is easier) .... often its better to just order a new fronpanel pcb, order new encoders, switches and leds... specially if you have to desolder a lot off dead parts.... specially a lot off LEDs are very dimm already - and you want to replace them... then its take time to find out the correct color and Brightness for those replacements. @ 6581: isnt that a 12V Chip --- and the others are 9V >>> do they get the corret voltage? ... i already repaired 4 off them... and build some... I dont like to repair them... - mike.

now the motorfaders are wired... next is to design RGB-LED-Boards, which should color the Fader-Frontplates - so they matches to the Ableton-Live-Tracks-Colors... this will take a while, meanwhile the Mixer comes in my studio....

well, the prototype off the BLM is working... i havent tested the GAte-in-OUT-PCBs ----but the Rest is working.... now its time to spend some money on Panel-Fabrication...

if you have an oscilloscope, measure the audio-out before the Buffer-Transistors...

at RGB-Leds > i dont know, how many you will use? which coremodule you will use? is it eurorackbased > and eurorack powerd? Which RGB-LED you will use - and what is the Voltage it needs? and so on.... i looked into your files.... some notices: @BP: dont connect the mountingholes to ground, or any other potential, best would be to make a keep out-area (sperrfläche) arround it, like i did for example here: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?w=600&tok=f96292&media=phatline:daw-btn-3d-b.jpg since you can plastic and/or metall standoffs to mount that pcb to the panel, you would need at least 6mm or more keepout-area.... background: you want to avoid groundloops over the frontpanel, and the risk of a electrical shock is less.... The LEDs in the diagram are connected false, the tip off the arrow should always be connected to the ground. (you should turn them 180°) which buttons do you want to use? please check the pinout off them... for me it happend that i did not connect the correct pins, so double check this.... why you made those cuts on the 4 corners? its better to make them rectangular - background: if you panelize the pcb, you have to draw a V-Grove line, the machine can only Grove in 90°, the idea, is to put 2 off this boards on one 100x100 PCB so you can save money on FAB.... way more oversight you have if you use a Groundsymbol... instead off paint Lines to a ground inside your shematic... look into "control" to see what i mean...also it makes it easyier to work with groundplanes, since this needs a NET... @Control: please open this file:Control.zip the same like above, and, you dont need that vias next to PIN 2 off the switches > Pin 2 is a via itself.... - same for Pin 1 off P2, the Problem it did not fill without your Vias: because you dont used a Ground-Net.... Pin1 - which is labeld as VDD (+) was connect to all your buttons and the pot (which is a Encoder)... normaly we connect them to ground..... VSS is ground.... so i exchanged the whole thing.... i dont know iff this is then still correct in your big picture- wiring diagram.... how ever thats the way i would make it - at least iff the Pin-Labels off the IDC Connectors are right... you should put the 4 mounting holes in the shematic, so you dont loose them when updating the PCB Also dont label your Encoder with Pot or RV >>> this is not a Potentiometer... that confused me until i realized this is a Encoder.... also the google-Drive files are a bit corrupt - the footprints where not assigned to the Shematic symbols...... when you save the project and upload it somewhere - zip it inside Kicad with "Projektdaten archivieren" - dont know the french word for it. -please overwork also your BP like/or simular like i did.... @Fader 1/2.... please open this file: Fad_2.zip shematic: also better use GND and VDD Nets.... more oversight! if you dont use a Pin off your IDC-Header (P5), then "x" them out with the blue "x" on the right side off your editor.... For what are those outer Mounting holes? they are too near to the Faders...make the pcb bigger so there is space for a Spacer/standoff, or use only the 4 inner mounting holes... which i think is enough.... again better 90° corners.... fill out your Shematics "Circuit-Field" right down - dont know the englisch or french word for "Plankopf" ... by the way you can design your own "Plankopf", so you dont see there thing like "KiCAD E.D.,A kicad 6.0.10......" keep out for mounting holes again... (see PB) dont make outher planes on VDD(+) ... mostly there can happen problems when mounting the thing to a panels, better use Ground-Planes... When looking on your FAders Footprint, and on the DAtasheet for the RA6020F then i am not sure iff the pinout is correct (the datasheet is bullshit...) but i guess you imported the Symbol and Footprint from mouser or something....then i guess its oky.... also use the design-rule check function (in a shematic and PCB-Editor) i did not looked in the other kicad-projects... but i guess its the same - a bit overwork needet..

you can dimm them ofcourse..... that depends on the core module... but standard lpc and stm32 core-modules have a dim poti on the pcb.

looking good... have not tested all buttons (since i am waiting for Silicon-Pads, and 1N4148) - but i guess everthing is ok...

after reading the stm32f407 features i found: True random number generator how do i use this feature in mios? thx 4 input

thx

hei i have those: SAON11M9-LIN10K I dont understand this touch feature... When my finger is the Ground/Touch, then there is still a plastic between the Fader and my finger, how does this work? (i have read till page 11 off this tread, but didnt found anyone questioned this...) do i need this (not in stock) chrome Fader-Lever? https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/faderknopf-gerippt-t-lever-chrome-knopf-18-5x1-5vc-p73957.html?&trstct=pol_14&nbc=1

i measured mine (with nothing connect then the usb-cable: 40°C measured with a infrared-"gun"

have to order some things... but looking good up to now...

ps: cant see much off the vector board.... so its a bit watching in the magic "glas kugel"

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

hmmm has to do with UART because when i add follwing line to mios_config.h #define MIOS32_DONT_USE_UART the board is working normal, i dont know what UART in this sense does? (USB-midibports??? Din-Midiports?) i dont know this is all i can do, the rest has to be done who knows this application