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Phatline

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Posts posted by Phatline

  1. you sayd you made a custom USB OTG cable... you think you have done it right (ID PIN ??? )?

    if you have done right, maybe you have wrong bootloader settings: (http://www.ucapps.de/mios32_bootstrap_newbies.html )
     

    Quote

    enforce_usb_device: this option has only an effect on core modules which support USB Host mode such as the MBHP_CORE_STM32F4 module.
    If set to 1, USB device mode will be selected regardless of the cable type A or B. If set to 0 (default), USB host mode will be selected with A type cables, and USB device mode with B type cables.
    This type of selection is also known as USB OTG (on-the-go).
    The usage of the default setup is normally save, "set enforce_usb_device 1" only if you are using an "unusual" cable.
    Note that setting this parameter could lead to a dilemma: it can only be set with a bidirectional MIDI connection between the core module and the MIOS Studio terminal. If you don't own a Micro-USB B type cable to establish this connection, the only possibility to change this parameter is a "traditional" MIDI connection via MIDI IN/OUT between the core module and your PC/Mac!
    If you don't own a MIDI interface for such a connection, it's cheaper to buy the right Micro-USB cable - once you've changed the parameter, you can use the "improper" cable for your core!

     

  2. new price 750€

    i combined and wrote the 32bit Code so it now can comunicate with a SEQV4+, and off course with the SEQV4 standard, here is the sourcecode + firmware:
    BLM_V01.7z

    see also this short video (german):

     

  3. try:

    upload the newest bootloader (with mios studio + http://www.ucapps.de/mios32/mios32_bootloader_v1_018.zip), reboot, on mios-studio - go to the mios-terminal-section, and type "help", then change to LCD type, the number off characters (2x40) and the numbers off X and Y Screens you have on your sequencer... then type "store" (was it store...save...? no idea, all commands are listed when you type "help") the core reboots and you will see some Text on your screens - then you have prooved that this is no hardware issue, then upload the newest LPC17 Seq V4 firmware, then report if it is still Black Blocks you see.

    by the way is your "orginal old core setup"?

    has the LPC-core ever worked? if not, try to replace the HC595 chip on it (IC2), also check the solderpoints that have to do with the LCD-Section (see the shematic: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_lpc17.pdf) ... Specially the groundpins, since we have a ground plane here, the plane sucks away the heat coming from the soldering iron, give enough heat on your solderstation, and heat the pins longer then normal... but bevore remove the lpc board, and IC2, so you dont destroy them...

    thats all - what comes in my mind.

  4. On 1/15/2024 at 9:53 PM, Smithy said:

    Update especially for people who have ordered Sauraen's Front Panel PCBs.
    TLDR: I have 4 Front Panels and 4 Rear Panels for MIDIbox Quad Genesis for sale.

    Life got in the way of both me and @ssp, and we lost contact for a few years! 
    Thanks for your help dude, and if anyone would like acrylic panels laser cut you should contact him!

    The good news is that I ended up converting the Front Panels in .fpd format to PCB format using Kicad with lots of editing and learning.

    Here's how the Front Panels came out:

    hei, what do you payed on jlpcb for one set (devidet)?
    is there a change to get a Sauren Frontpanel PCB anywhere?
    - i am interested - but not sure that i get all i need to build this (the FM-PCBs are sold out - as example: https://midiboxshop.bigcartel.com/product/midibox-quad-genesis-board)

  5. maybe its the Ripple off the PSU
    about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc"   i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple...
    --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... 
    * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps...


    the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct.

    by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground.

    else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug...
    - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that.

    - mike.



     

    • Like 1
  6. I sale them:

    _2530438.thumb.JPG.7434364e88c8ce86acbccbd9975a60ac.JPG

     

     

     

    2x with wite SMD LEDS: (for Acrylic Panels without Thruhole) - these are the only two boards with ENCODERS with inbuilt pushbuttons

    30€ the Pair    SOLD to KSIR!

    _2530443.thumb.JPG.2d02e3baaca5e80a50c479b1154a92b2.JPG

     

     

     

    2x with RED 3mm LEDs - mounted flat to the pcb (for Acrylic Panels without Thruhole)

    30€ the Pair

    _2530440.thumb.JPG.8604d7bc003cde21bb815d176be9f12f.JPG

     

     

     

    1x with Yellow 3mm LEDs - mounted flat to the pcb (for Acrylic Panels without Thruhole)

    10€

    _2530439.thumb.JPG.f3d5012e9575232f3a33e39afc41c559.JPG

     

     

    2x with RED 3mm LEDs for thruhole Mounting

    20€ the pair

    _2530444.thumb.JPG.68b2274b871c2550b9cc37725223ed50.JPG

     

     

    I dont have Encoder-Nuts for them.

     

     

    Shipping only to the EU

     

    why i sell them? > i dont need them... if i am in need i would design my own pcb...

  7. made a few changes on the cooling:

    more holes
    SID-Button-Air-intakes.thumb.jpg.a0a479f25577e541ed52d601dc24b41c.jpg

     

    Made 3 holes where the ventilator "should be"

    Drilled the 2 M3 Mounting holes on the right to a bigger diameter

    Drilled a hole near the 7809

    SID-PCB-Air-Intakes.thumb.JPG.b4fd4320646588082dc69afb9cc75bbc.JPG


    cuted also the second "bar" off the IC-Socket (left socket) - before i had only cuted the top one (see middle socket)

    i had fear that it would not hold in the socket, or they would bend to much... but the SID hold the socket togehter once it sits in it.

    so i have even more thermal pathes...

    SID-SOCKET-Ventilation.thumb.jpg.6f950524e8fc6c8b29286bb9eaddb510.jpg

    lets see what this changes on temperatures:

    SID: 48-55C°
    PIC:36-37C°
    Bottom Case: 32-38 (on one point 45C°)
    7809: 45
    pcb near 7809: 32-37C°
    Frontpanel: 32C°
    Backpanel: 32C°

  8. well then test like i suggested:

    Voltmeter black cable to a ground pin (core ore dinx4 module)

    Voltmeter red cable to a Dinx4 Pin that is connect to a PAD.

    if you dont press the PAD you should have 5V (its pulled high with the Dinx4 inbuilt pull high resistor > the 10K ones)
    if you then press the PAD you should have 0V (its pulled down with the button that connects now the Dinx4 Pin with Ground)
    if this is not 0V, and in worst case 2.5V - then the Resistance between Button and Ground is to high, so the 10K resistors which are connected to +5V overrule them... the Chips on the Dinx4 recognize 5V to 2,5V as high (cant say if this is true i think its arround 2,5V) and 0-2,5V is low

    my suggestion is now, take one off the 10K resistor out and replace it with a 100K resistors, measure again, and see the difference.

    about NG: maybe ZAM knows more... i am definitvly the wrong one for NG script ;)

  9. Now a Purple Passive Cooled is alive:


    Temperatures after 1,5h:
    Front panel:  29-31C°
    Bottom off the Box: 30-43C°
    Back panel: 28-40C° (40C° on the Plastic above the Ventilator-Air-Hole, 33C° above the small Air holes)

    SID-Chips: 45-54C°
    7809: 44C°
    PCB near 7809: 40°C
    PICs: 36°C


    I will drill some more holes, and post some measurements later on.


    this picture is near off the Color that it in reality has... but the camera cant face this UV things good:

    Purple-Sid-Finished1-right-LED-Color.thumb.jpg.5c54f0435bf9809bc0084307abb29e3e.jpg

     

    here where the case color is like it looks in reality (but not the LEDs)
    Purple-Sid-Finished1-right-case-Color.thumb.jpg.423ba21fb36159fee46ab1844d9fe661.jpg

     

    back plate, with some AIR Holes, since it is a passive Cooled Design:
    Purple-Sid-Finished3.thumb.jpg.53fb2e303c6bfe22d974905fd9388610.jpg

     

    I made a single PSU option (+12VDC) that on the 5V Rail i used a Traco Power Switching Regulator (which is cool)
    on the 9V Rail i used a standard 7809, which i mounted on a ALU-Cooler, which i mounted with thermal paste everywhere around on the PCB, the screw thru the PCB i fastened again with thermal paste everywhere, on the blank Ground-Plane off the PCB,
    On the bottom off the Case i made a lot off Holes so Air can get in...
    _2450453.thumb.JPG.485445f828d212efcdc3745db2580ead.JPG

    (the 2 holes under the SID is a Air Intake, and i also cut away the plastic off the DIP-Socket so Hot Air behind the SID can get away.... there are also holes on the bottom off the Case for some Air intake!)

    _2450454.thumb.JPG.4f1b98715d302ece98c5fde0428d7caa.JPG

    (i drilled away some plastic from the MIDI-Sockets, and also from the PCB , so i can safely mount a Power-plug into the back panel, the Takeaway from the PCB is also some way to get rid off some hot air, coming from the underside off the PCB where the 7809 produces heat)

     

    _2450463.thumb.JPG.a6676933390b34ecd8db5aadc624d821.JPG
    In this picture you see that i soldered a 220nF Cap between the Reset Line and Ground off the SID... this took a way a high chirping sound out off the equal loud noise floor... I tried different other things to reduce noise, switching a 9V Switching Regulator to a standard 7809 made nothing hear able difference, also by adding LC Filters on the 5V Rail changed anything... this 220nF made the most difference in sound quality (and off course the EXT-IN>Ground Jumper :)
    _2450452.thumb.JPG.f631030d46d03f6c67d86b9be9c2c724.JPG
    (the screw is the Thermalthienk for the 7809)

    single wires to the Frontpanel is for me the best solution:
    _2450455.thumb.JPG.f778794aedde643bf0fb46bfaa450165.JPG

    i also used on the whole PCBs Pb Solder, the melt with slower temperature, and is more fluid, this is good for this PCB because the VIA Spacing between Solder point and Groundplane is almost not existent, so Shorts cant happen so easy...

  10. since you dont use a Button Led Matrix on this - where the driver is already programmed to be debounced...  and you on the other hand connect the buttons directly to a DIN-Module - which i didnt have done yet, on the hardware side i would take a Voltmeter, and measure on the DIN-Pins, hand look how many Volts you have when you press the button... if it is 0V then all is good, if it is hardly above that, then you may change the Pull-Hi Resistors on the DIN Board to a other (higher) Value (As expiriment) - because the Rubber button is not a perfect Electric Contact (a tactil switch is more on "perfect) it might be that it cant Pull-Lo the Pull-Hi resistors (fighting)


    @ software
    you have to debounce the buttons in software - how?
    i dont know the NG-script - so i cant help much here... maybe you start by posting how you defined the buttons in ng code... maybe i can see there something... It could be that there are set as toggle switches, in reality we wont some momentary switch - ... maybe there is also some timining offset to be set (a time that says that no incoming DIN signal is handeld after a trigger accoured - so we avoid false triggering for example 20ms long... aka debouncing?)

     

  11. are you sure that Encoders start with Number 1?
    At least on Midibox-platform on the codeside (if you write a custom Midiboxproject) normally they start with Number 0, (also Buttons, AIN, Midichannels, CCs, Notes, i guess also Ledrings? ;) ;) ...)
    that would look there like this:

     const mios32_enc_config_t encoders[3] = {//(SR count-begin with 1, ENC with 0) // setup the Pinout of Encoders
                                                                                            { .cfg.type=DETENTED1, .cfg.speed=SLOW,     .cfg.speed_par=1, .cfg.sr=8, .cfg.pos=0 },      //    0  PAGE
                                                                                            { .cfg.type=DETENTED1, .cfg.speed=SLOW,     .cfg.speed_par=3, .cfg.sr=8, .cfg.pos=2 },      //    1  PAR 1
                                                                                            { .cfg.type=DETENTED1, .cfg.speed=SLOW,     .cfg.speed_par=3, .cfg.sr=8, .cfg.pos=4 }};        //    2  PAR 2
                                                                                            u8 i;    for(i=0; i<3; ++i) { MIOS32_ENC_ConfigSet(i, encoders);     }


    they start with 0....

    no idea if Thorsten, made it more "musican friendly" by make an offset "+1" behind the userinterface - so they start with 1 on Midibox NG?

    my nose says....
    give it a try:
     

    ENC n=  1   sr= 1  pins=1:0   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  0   sr= 1  pins=3:2   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  3   sr= 1  pins=5:4   type=non_detented 
    ENC n=  2   sr= 1  pins=7:6   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  5   sr= 2  pins=1:0   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  4   sr= 2  pins=3:2   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  7   sr= 2  pins=5:4   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  6   sr= 2  pins=7:6   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  9   sr= 3  pins=1:0   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  8   sr= 3  pins=3:2   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  11   sr= 3  pins=5:4   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  10   sr= 3  pins=7:6   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  13   sr= 4  pins=1:0   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  12   sr= 4  pins=3:2   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  15   sr= 4  pins=5:4   type=non_detented
    ENC n=  14   sr= 4  pins=7:6   type=non_detented 
  12. EDIT: First try my second post (see below this one)

    try to not assign Encoder 16, and watch which 2 Buttons now are see-able in mios studio when turning the ENC 16 --- is it 29 30?
    since ENC15 is outputet as Buttons 31 32  in Mios Studio   - so we can check if it is a neightbar on SR4...
    How ever -  i guess you use a encoder pcb which you use 2 times in your setup, so ENC 7 is the same as ENC 15? and ENC7 is working  as it should? try to to not assign ENC 7+8 - it should be the same pinout like ENC15+16 (but a other Shiftregister)
    some math: when ENC 15 is equivalent to Button 31 + 32, then ENC 7 movements should be button events = 32-16 = button 15/16, and ENC8 would be? 13/14? if so > 14+16 = 30 31 should be then Encoder 16?

    i checked your shematics, and there is no change to wrongly assamble the sandwitch (the button pins are always on the outside of the Header J30-J33 - so this cant be the bug...

    i guess u use standard DINx4 Modules to connect the boards, so a wrong  pinout from this side cant be the bug too...

    at NG Code i am familar with assigning Encoders to shiftregisters and pins > and it seems ok to me (when it is correct that Encoders starting at ENC Nr1 and not at ENC Nr0?)... about the rest of NG i have no glue.

     




     

  13. with midi monitor you mean the mios-studio? http://www.ucapps.de/mios_studio.html

    there you will see only the usb-ports (4 off them normally)

    the DIN-Boards you have on your sequencer are for IIC and UART and are adressed from your Sequencer - not from the USB-Ports (at least i can remember)... there might be some midithru in the firmware to adress the UARTs via USB- might be might be not, since i dont own a sequencer - i cant say...

    isnt there a hardware configuration file that you have to put on your sd-card (which you then put into the sequencer) - normally there you will activate Midiports? you can look into that... maybe Din Port 32 33 34 35 are not activiated? you may post here the text which is in this config file.

    a lot off guess i know...

  14. the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core...
    i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic:

    https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5

     

    also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module:
    http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd

    a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!


     

     

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