HybrisBehemoth

Triple checked the caps. Even dug out another pair of different caps with same value and tried with those instead. Same result. Sounds like a good idea to try in another socket. I'll just have to get a proper IC removal tool first. I really don't want to break the SID (any more that it might already bee). I actually ordered 4 8580s on meeblip. So hopefully, in not too long, I'll have some more to compare to.

Done some more testing tonight. All the patches that work normally either doesn't use the filters or use high pass filters only. All the other patches are really really quiet. If I crank the volume I can still hear them (barely among the noise from the SID). If I sweep the filters there are no smooth filter sweep. Instead sounds cut in and out suddenly. If I change filter mode to high pass the patch starts working normally and at normal volume (way louder!). The filter sweep is also much more smooth when in high pass mode. I assume that this points toward broken filters in the SID. Anything else I should consider/try? Haven't tried switching filtering caps. But I think they should be fine.

Ah. So even if the menu goes from 0-FFF, FFF would represent 600 if I have set 600 as max? Because my filters only seem to react roughly in the 0-600 range (nothing changes between 600-FFF) even if max is set to 600. Does that indicate a defective filter then? Not completely confident about the health of my SID (ebay). Did you use the "standard" setup_mb6582.hex when you got your Bourns encoders working? Should I look into any settings or other firmware?

I'm using these Bourns encoders: https://no.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-PEC16-4220FN0024 Chose them since they are highly recommended in the MB6582 control surface BOM: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list But now I'm reading posts indicating that a lot of people have had trouble with the Bourns encoders. Maybe they shouldn't be listed as highly recommended in the BOM ... Been searching and reading a lot about this but there doesn't seem to be a solution other than de-soldering and buying other encoders. :( Set my filters to the recommendations for 8580 found here (range 0-600 Log: on): http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_e.html This didn't make any difference though; most of the patches are still really quiet. Notably whenever i tweak filter setting the range is still the full 0-FFF, and not the 0-600 that I set. Are there any other changes to be made when using 8580s?

So I finally got around to finishing my MB6582. Just some final troubleshooting left (I hope): All the encoders have some random behavior to them. They will be working fine and then suddenly the value will jump a couple of steps in a random direction, even when I'm just making a small adjustment. As I said this goes for all of them, including the one where I didn't remove the detent. Uploaded the standard patches but some of them are acting weird. Some are fine, some wont make any sound and some are very quiet so that I have to crank the volume to hear them. I only have one 8580 installed and I did change the setting to mono in the ensemble menu. Suggestions are highly appreciated :)

Thanks for the link! I have ordered some of the recommended 1N5817 Schottky diodes. Now I just have to wait for the Chinese mailing service... I could get my hands on some 1N5819 Schottky diodes right now. Forward voltage is a bit higher than 1N5817: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds23001.pdf Any opinions about using 1N5819 instead for reverse polarity protection on PSU option E, only 9v SIDs, 12V wallwart? After looking at the PCBs it seems to me that placing the diode like drawn in the picture would do it. Correct?

Doing some work on this today. I'd like to reverse-polarity-protect the MB6582. I assume that one of the left over 1N4148_T50A https://no.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-1N4148T50A wouldn't do for this job. What diode would I need? And where would be best to place it? Was thinking about some of the unused (right now bridged) connections for the bridge rectifier B1.

Congratulations on the finished build duckchild. :) I haven't had much time for building lately. And of course I found this site https://www.parasitstudio.se/ , and thus another project to add to the pile of unfinished ones. I'm sure that I am the only one on this forum who owns such a pile... This weekend, however, I got some time for the MB6582 and finished the control surface. I didn't get the buttons to line up perfectly. So attaching the front panel was a real pain. (My girlfriend actually suggested that I open a window so I wouldn't break it if I was to throw the synth out through it.) I really hope that everything works when I have finished. Because I really don't want to do that again with 100+ LEDs to think about as well.

It is indeed. Good catch :)

The LCD wont show anything (except maybe a series of squares where the characters are supposed to be) without the PIC. Or did you mean that the backlight wont turn on? I would just go ahead and burn the PICs. You will be able to tell if it worked when you connect to mios on your PC via MIDI.

I used this PicKit (which should basically be the same as 3.0) and adapter. Worked fine. Found this video useful:

Pictures working now? No worries about using the thread. As you wrote; since we're both building. I did PSU option E, which seems to be working well so far. All the guides found here has been super useful! I'm planing to use a standard 2.1 jack. The only problem is that my panels have the big 17mm hole for the DIN-jack. Has anybody found a nice solution for this? The disc-solution came to mind for me as well. But I haven't looked in to it further. I like the multi-coloured-legos kind of look to the knobs! Are you going to do those colour changing LEDs as well?

Working along slowly but surely here. Soon finished with the main board. Passed all the tests without any major setbacks so far. Just managed to get some first sounds out of the SID. :D The 10 uF electrolytic caps I got were way too big and the film caps are a bit bulky (as you can see). Luckily I had some electrolytics lying around.

It is. One of my first DIY-attempts. Would have gladly bought it through this community instead. But that didn't seem to bee an option any more.

Thanks everyone for the informative feedback! Decided to go with power option E and 8580s only. Really cool solution with the PCB-panels! When I saw it I had already ordered case and panels from http://thebeast.co.uk/ though. I have (finally) gone through the BOM and created my Mouser shopping list (can be copy/pasted here https://no.mouser.com/tools/part-list-import.aspx): 512-1N4148T50A|100 688-SKHHDT|50 604-WP424HDT|115 652-PEC16-4220FN0024|15 313-1250F-100K|4 161-MJ355W-EX|1 575-11044640|5 575-1104762841001000|10 502-PC722A|1 502-57PC5F|2 550-20301|4 710-860040478015|1 710-860241375002|10 647-ULD1E101MED1TD|1 647-ULD1H010MDD1TD|10 75-2C20X7R334K050B|1 581-SR215C104K|38 75-1C20C0G330J050B|8 505-FKP2.022/63/2.5T|16 581-SR211A102JAATR1|16 594-K471J15C0GF5UH5|8 858-36FR10KLF|5 264-10K-RC|10 610-BC337|1 512-BC547BTA|16 859-6N138|1 579-24LC512-E/P|8 595-SN74HC165N|5 595-SN74HC595N|11 579-PIC18F4685-I/P|4 774-ATS10A-E|4 511-L7809CV|1 532-577202B00|1 532-574502B03700G|1 919-R-78B5.0-1.5|1 660-MF1/4DCT52R5601F|100 660-MF1/4DCT52R1201F|100 660-MF1/4DCT52R1001F|100 660-MF1/4DCT52R1002F|100 660-MF1/4D52R1000F|100 660-MF1/4DCT52R2200F|100 Doest this look OK? Any suggested changes? Correct ICs, transistors? I went for longer lifespan electrolytic caps. Any opinions on those? Better options for the SID filter caps ( 505-FKP2.022/63/2.5T )? I'm leaving the fan out. Got these heat sinks for SIDs and PICs. Might be too tall... How much space is there between the PCBs?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-14x30x8-mm-DIY-fans-cooling-Heatsink-Aluminum-Profile-Cooler-With-Tape/123021408514?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-10x35x10mm-Extruded-Heatsink-With-Thermal-Tape-Aluminium-Profile-For-DIP/112681555348?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Also ordered this dirt cheap display. Measurements look good. Any opinions as to whether it will work with the PIC? If not; suggested display from Mouser/EU-supplier?: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-LCD-2004-20x4-Character-LCD-Display-Module-HD44780-Controller-Green-screen-backlight-forarduino/32691168548.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.400f4c4dSOqlAZ Also ordered a PicKit3.5 as I should be able to use that to program the PICs, right? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/new-1set-PICKIT3-5-PIC-KIT3-5-PICKIT-3-5-Programmer-Offline-Programming-Simulation-PIC-Microcontroller/32847321104.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.400f4c4dSOqlAZ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PIC-ICD2-PICKit-2-PICKIT-3-Programming-Adapter-PICKIT2-PICKIT3-Universal-Programmer-Seat/32730403341.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.400f4c4dSOqlAZ Wasn't quite sure how much current the 7809 would have to handle if I got 8 8580s sometime. Thus I wasn't sure how big a heat sink is needed. So I got two options and plan to mount the biggest one I can fit into the space between the PCBs.

I just ordered the switch here for €6 including shipping in EU: http://www.demand.nu/retrotech/r8017l-r21.html

I basically got in to DIY-synths a couple of months ago because I wanted to be able to build a MB6582. After building a Shruthi XT and a sammichFM kit I'm starting to feel ready for the challenge. So I bought the PCBs from Modular addict and read through all the documentation I could find here. Just getting ready to order the parts from Mouser and have a few questions before doing so. - Does anybody sell pre-burnt PICs for the MB6582? I assume I need 4 pre burnt ones if I want to use all the slots? - I have an original C64 power supply. It turns on. But when I tested the voltages referencing https://www.c64-wiki.com/wiki/Power_Supply_Connector I get 5,29 V DC between pin 2 and 5. But between pin 6 and 7 I get 11,06 V AC. I assume this means that the supply is starting to fail and that I need to look for a new one. Any suggestions when it comes to buying a newly produced C64 supply for this project? - I'm probably going for PSU option B. Currently I only have one 8580 SID and I might stay with just 8580s, but I want the flexibility if I do get 6581s... if there isn't any drawbacks compared to PSU option A that is... heat etc.? - I assume the Modular addict PCBs are the same as "revision 2 PCBs" from SmashTV, and that there are no errors to correct as in the first PCBs? - Are there any better display options out there now that will work with the PCBs and the PT-10? OLEDs? Would that require switching out other components? - Any recommendations for a fan? A very quiet one would be great. - I'm not at all sure what heat sinks to get from Mouser. Suggestions? - The front panel seems to be the most expensive part! Looks like I can get one for 85 £ (I'm in EU). Any other options out there? Did anybody try 1,5 mm laser cut acrylic? Not sure if it would be sturdy enough. - What PCB-mount on-off switch (from Mouser) would work with the panels and PT-10? Thanks for any input.

Really looking forward to building this. Thankful for the great effort of everyone involved in the project! I might have missed this while reading the threads, but is there a Mouser BOM so that I can order the components needed. I want to be ready when I finally get my hands on the PCBs. :)

The jumpers by MS1 are in place. The jacks are stereo. Here are some pictures. This is my first synth-build so I'm sure there is a lot to be said about soldering quality. ;)

Thank you for the input and sorry for being a total noob and not reading the MIDI troubleshooting before posting. Got the software up and running now and I get sound out of the sammichFM. Its just really low and with a lot of static noise. Is this a power supply issue or are there other possible explanations? Also: on the main PCB there are headers "JPB" in the top right corner. What are those for?

Thank you for the help. I ended up soldering a jumper wire to ground. After passing the voltage checks as in the build manual, I installed the ICs (except banksticks) and turned on the power. Pause... no smoke or smell of burning components. So far, so good. At first the LEDs wouldn't light up. But after some wiggling of the MIDI-cables they came on. After installing MIOS Studio 2.4.6 and setting MIDI in and out the upload requests keep ticking-in all the time that the sammichFM is connected. After pressing "Query" I do get the correct message that the unit is up & running. I upload the midibox_fm_v1_4i, which seems to be working; upload of 25088 bytes completed after 16.55s (1.48 kb/s) But the unit isn't rebooting after that as its supposed to. The screen is on but still just showing the row of rectangles. And the LEDs are all off. If I press "query" I get the message that "Bootloader is up & running!". The requests "f0 00 00 7e 40 00 01 f7" keep ticking-in in the top left window. If I connect audio out its giving of some low random static noise. Suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm a total noob building a sammichFM. Finished all the soldering. All voltage tests OK, except that pin 13 socket on IC3 socket of the control PCB (74HC595) is not connected to ground as it is supposed to be referring to the build guide. I re-soldered the joint, but still no difference. Should I simply run a jumper wire on the back of the PCB or am I missing something? Any other tests I should run or components I should look at?

So, just got into building stuff instead of using VSTs. Ultimately I´m looking to build a midibox SID v2 but I started with buying a sammichFM kit on e-bay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sammich-FM-synthesizer-Un-assemble-DIY-kit-Yamaha-YMF262-OPL3-sound-chip/153055685674?hash=item23a2d46c2a:g:dNUAAOSwdoNaxt3V The soldering will soon be done. But I´m having a bit of trouble finding a EU power supply meeting the specs (specially when it comes to not being a switching model). Would any of these work, or does anybody have other suggestions?: https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/power-supply-nordic-power-am-04159a-9v/p/16968715?q=*&filter_Category4=External+Plug+In+Adapter+Converters+%28AC+%2F+DC%29&filter_Category3=AC+%2F+DC+Power+Supplies&filter_Output+voltage%7E%7EVDC=9&filter_Power%7E%7EW=5&filter_Buyable=1&page=1&origPos=338&origPageSize=25&simi=99.9 https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/stromforsorjning-switchad-9v-0-66a/ Thanks for any help