SimonSays

@latigid on Thanks, Andy... belatedly, here it is, the centre-piece of the studio! It may be a record in terms of slowness to post... :) @HawkeyeThanks, Peter - same to you!

Happy New Year to you all... I see you are now confirming build numbers to finishers - out of curiosity, do you know what mine was (completed beginning May 2019)? I was also just doing a new year firmware update on all my hardware - I'm running 097 on the V4+, but the download page stops at 096 (for STM32F4). Am I up-to-date? Cheers, Simon

Oh - for the love of god... the board is labelled. My embarrassment is complete and I am going to go and sit facing the wall and think about what i have done. Thanks for being kind, @latigid on :)

I’m slightly embarrassed to admit that I’m only just getting round to fixing the missing OTG jumper from my build :/ But not as embarrassed as I am to admit that I can’t find the correct location and/or position for the jumper! I went back through all the info I could find on it, but it’s obviously so simple that nobody has described where and how to position the jumper. When i` removed the side panel to access the board and jumpered the visible headers (thanks for the tip @Adam Schabtach), I just got unit resets. Possibly, I have another problem, but can someone post a quick pic of the OTG jumper so I can rule that variable out? thanks!

Is there any way of addressing this in the firmware, or hardware setup file? I use both a Digitakt and Rytm and I can’t control the Bass Drum on the DT (maybe the Rytm as well... i don’t recall and it’s put away right now) as it’s on Midi note 0 (C-2). Annoying of Elektron to configure it that way but i’ve got no hope of changing the firmware on that so easier to ask here! Or, has anyone else found a better workaround than substituting another sound (say, Cymbal) for the BD and accepting that the sample on key 1 can’t be triggered?

Thanks, Andy! Right... so, 5s into 8, 16... 32... :) What are fellow seq-tarians doing with the spare 4s or 3s? Pictures, please...

They look great... can existing owners buy a set to retro fit?

This is really helpful - thanks for creating it!

It turned out to be a button/case issue... As soon as I got the top off, the button LEDs returned to proper service. The top was a very tight fit to all the buttons, switches and dials when i first fitted it. Although all the transport buttons were free to move, something must have been trapped underneath... perhaps one button not quite fully lifting back up? I couldn't repeat the issue with the top off so can’t be certain. I spent 20 mins with a fine file and gave some up/down movement potential to the jog dial board and moved it less than 0.5mm upwards. That has also allowed my aftermarket jog dial to fit the aperture precisely and improved how I could fit it vertically. The issue recurred when I got the screws for the cream top back in and tightened - it seems to be held at bay by only just nipping up the right hand (jog side) 2 top screws. I don’t think my transport buttons are off the PCB, though. Might be a bad joint somewhere on the switch LEDs still, but it’s back working again now. Thanks

Thanks - I discovered last night that it’s probably a bad joint: plugged SEQ in and only stop button light lit (normal state). Pressed play and play LED lit green for a second and then all transport LEDs lit white again with play unlit completely, as per ‘bad’ state. it was always going to be my soldering :( I’ll look where you suggest!

Hey all - i’ve just had an issue come up... at some point today, the switch LEDS on the transport row have lit incorrectly. I’ve niw got all lit aside from play and play doesn’t light green whether playing or stopped. All functionality is correct (play, pause, stop, etc) but the LEDs aren’t lit correctly. I’ve got to disassemble to bridge the OTG switch so i’ll fix at same time - any idea what the culprit might be before I dive in? Thanks

Hey Peter - thanks for the response... Glad you like my “top hat” :) It’s not a perfect fit but i like it... look here: Sourcingmap 30mm CNC Machined Aluminium Alloy Potentiometer Knob Cao 6mm Dia Hole https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00X77OLB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lO75DbN2DGBET. The grey knobs on the step columns are from Thonk.co.uk. I have a very solid power bank - i’ll try that and use the shortest cable I can find as well. I’ll report back (although I’ve not read of same problem elsewhere, so I may be solving a unique issue). Cheers

Hey all I had a big work change soon after I finished building my V4+ so I disappeared for a while... I plugged it all back in last night and immediately started enjoying myself again :) But.. I noticed some behaviour I hadn’t seen before: 1. I accidentally started the V4+ with the SD card out. After getting the ‘searching for SD card’ and then ‘No SD card’ messages, I pressed a button as I picked the unit up and got a strange light animation (vid below). Is this “expected”or is a symptom of something else? V4+ Strange Behaviour Video 2. The reason I ask if the above is a symptom is I also got a machine ‘freeze’ while playing patterns. I’ve had it before and can’t replicate it but changing menus while a pattern is playing caused the machine to lock up (non-responsive to input) and the tempo of the audio to fall by a factor (1/4 time, 1/8 time, perhaps?) I have an outstanding fix to the OTG switch bridged connection that I forgot to do in the initial build, but I doubt that is connected to the above? The behaviour in (1) obviously isn’t important as ther eis no problem when I reboot with the SD card attached, but I’m wondering if anyone recognises a problem from these factors? Cheers, Simon

Super-cool - thanks, @jaytee. Option e PSU it is for me! I think I've got the knowledge I need to order the BOM now... the PCBs arrived super-quick (and with no VAT/handling charges) from Modular Addict. I haven't had the panel yet and the swinSIDs are still on back-order. I'll probably get a 8580 or two from flea-bay in time for the main build completion. I can supply whatever power is needed during build and testing with a bench supply so that won't be a problem. It looks like the build is secured between the PCBs and the panel, so I'm hoping to live with that (and standoffs) until I can figure a case out - I don't particularly like that PT-10 box (although it's obviously good from a convenience POV). I'm just looking at my Mackie 1202 mixer thinking that (or a similarly sized unit) might be version-able... or a transparent acrylic number...

As you should. It's luvverly... a lot to learn for a dimwit like me, but it's fun to keep uncovering "oh - I can do that?!" functions. It's a fun build, too. Good mix of great design, challenging and satisfying.

What's your preferred option @jaytee? Two PSUs, accepting the 7805 getting hot and/or avoid backlit display? Or "the other way"? I'm not fussed about two PSUs to be honest - I've got about 20,000 of them stored or in use at any given time, so one more won't break the model!

To maintain the commentary... I've just ordered 8x swinSID ultimates from PolyPlay. I think technically and practically this is the best answer, but part of me feels like I'm cheating! The supply of swinSIDs is pretty limited (AFAIK they are individually hand-built and it's not entirely clear that I will get any at all) - but, hopefully, more reliable than buying suspect chips - or C64s that are suspiciously described as 'untested, strictly bought as seen' - ie. 'I've had the SID and the PSU, you can have the rest'! Over time, I'll keep an eye for 8580s, and a couple of 6581s but build with the swinSIDs. I'll certainly pick up a reliable looking grey C64 for the PSU and the 8580 with it to start my collection :)

I've ordered The Beast's last panel in stock and the 6582 main + control boards from Modular Addict... and so it begins.

Thanks! Really helpful.... Actually, the idea of making a panel - or whole case - out of PCBs is pretty cool. I don't think I've seen that before. Could be nice for something like a Shruthi... I've got half a dozen different filter boards and three Shruthis (none of which are quick to open and change boards in) so that could solve a problem. Bit different to laser-cut acrylic!

It's set to slave/receive clock... I'll try it on USB sync to see if there's some oddity in the matrix but it's no biggie if it's a glitch. I've just noticed on the 3rd (or 4th - it's a steep curve!) pass of the documentation that I can route the midi keyboard to active track as an option... nice! I know the Cirklon has built its own mythical status partly through long waiting lists and £3000 resale values on eBay - as well as it being great hardware, no doubt - but I find it hard to believe it can offer more than this beaut :)

Right - that probably explains the power issue, but I'm powering the Keystep via external supply anyway - so that's not my connectivity issue... it works fine under the 5 pin Midi IN 1 scenario (with external power).

I think the political response would be: "I have no recollection of doing so..." I that just stopping me from getting +5v through to OTG, or breaking the USB chain entirely?

Thanks @jaytee... I'll either wait until I'm over there or wear the damned charges for import :) I hadn't realised the case was generic - explains why all the references are to the "Wilba panel" rather than the "Wilba case". At the risk of asking an obvious follow up: Do you know if the Wilba panels can still be had?!

I'm trying to use my Arturia Keystep with the Seq, but I'm having trouble linking it over USB. My setup looks like: Seq - master clock, 3 outputs, Keystep plugged into USB A port, switched to USB (I've tried both USB and OTG and neither wants to power the Keystep... I'm assuming it needs more juice), powered by 5v into USB port via charger (no Mac/PC) Output #1 - Shruthi on Out 1; Output #2 - Analog Rytm on Out 2; Output #3 - Ambika on Out 3; Keystep - 9v in, USB micro to A port on Seq, channel #10 I'm on the learning curve with the Seq, so I may have this wrong, but I'm using the Midi Router to allocate the Keystep to Out 3 (Ambika), where I'm trying out the Transpose and step recording. When trying this over USB, I've tried Routing USB1 (and 2, 3, and 4... not sure how these ports are allocated?) adn I don't get anything from the keyboard at all. I once got some reaction (ie. notes playing on Ambika, but only until I switched from USB to OTG and it went off again and I couldn't replicate). A couple of times, when messing with the USB connection, the Seq has frozen (no controls) and has continued playback on external synths but at what sounds like 1/4 speed. If I plug the Keystep into In 1 on 5 pin Midi, I can change Midi Router to In 1 > Out 3 and it works as expected. Sync conflict? Something shorted in the USB build? The Keystep does use timebase for Arp/internal sequencer, but that is set to slave and it made no odds if it was set to Arp or (unused) Seq mode, in any case.

I'm just troubleshooting a midi keyboard connectivity issue... I'm not sure if it's me getting it wrong, or a USB issue, but I can't get my Arturia Keystep to play over the USB connection. I can easily route the 5 pin Midi into In1 to whatever I want... when using the USB port, I can't get anything working. Also, a couple of times I've plugged into the USB port and the Seq has locked and everything has been playing at about 1/4 speed. I'm guessing I've shorted something in the USB path but thought I'd see if this sounded familiar? @niles - it might be the light, or flux, but some of the ICs on Le Mec R look a little splashy. Worth reflowing those, perhaps? Keep at it - this thing is brilliant when you get it hooked up!