Jidis

I've got a DX, but the only thing I've always wished it had was a way to access larger capacity chips which could load more than one sound without swapping out EPROMs. I think I may even remember someone doing a switched piggyback EPROM board thing or something with a couple sounds, but I may be imagining it (I'm getting tired). Had a 505, gave it away and wish I hadn't. :( George

Getting to the outside pins is probably more of a problem. I guess with shorter connectors, you can loop traces around the header to get to the pads, but twenty of them may be trouble. Take Care

Exactly! Girl's got 79 pages of photos on Flickr with a total of about five containing humans. I'm in love. ;D

I'm surprised there's been no mention of the great Lady Ada (Limor?) http://www.ladyada.net/

Figured people here might like it. They're probably as good as it gets on virtualizing audio hardware, so it should be nice. http://www.uaudio.com/webzine/2008/september/power.html From what I read, it will run on UAD-1 cards too, but I'm not sure how heavy it'll be. The UAD-1s just dropped to the floor on the used market this week as the new cards were released (around $100 maybe with some bundled plugs). BTW- I think the newly released UAD-2 cards are running Analog Devices SHARC ADSP-21369 chips (in one,two, & 4 chip PCIe versions). George

Got mine today too. All the way over in the states. Thanks Thorsten and everyone! George

There actually was a solvent that ate that stuff. I saw someone use it on a woodworking or craft show years ago and haven't been able to remember what it was. I think they used it to clean the residue after gluing a router template to something. It wasn't uncommon and I don't believe it was anything ridiculously strong (like acetone). Anybody know? George PS- Coincidentally just boiled the alleged "hot glue" out of an SM57 mic last night to pull the transformer. Hot glue, my ass! That stuff didn't even attempt to soften. Most of it came out by prying at it with a screwdriver.

At least you have enough sense to get something important like that up high where it's safe. Mine end up in the middle of everything, knocked on the floor and who knows what else. I'm lucky some of them still work when I get done. ;D

Thorsten, Will that be for everybody on the list (is US shipping already possible)? Thanks! George

As do I. :) Hope we get to see it on something. It's so obvious and simplistic, you wonder why there isn't already one out there. It's sort of like those long plastic extension arms you find in stuff, and follow them inside to find them hooked around a little PCB slide switch on the board. But there is no such thing as an "extra long" regular fader is there? Take Care, George I guess I'm not the only one too cheap to scrape up the money for "Recording the Beatles". ;D Been trying to get my Uncle to buy it since it came out so I could "borrow" it (he's the big Beatles fan).

I was wondering about that the other day (why the 100mm seems to be the standard "long throw" fader). Seems to be a variety of short ones out there, besides the usual 60. Wouldn't mind a single "foot long" fader for writing automation once in a while, maybe with a big Frankenstein handle like those old desks you see in Abbey Road pictures. ;D

Intellijel, I ran into the same issue last year: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,8294.0.html That stupid PCB & panel has actually been finished and populated soon after that post, but I haven't needed it and haven't felt like getting back to molding the button caps to finish it. ;D The plan is: To model taller add-on caps for the switches (similar to what Sasha describes) and glue them to the existing flat caps. As with yours, the button caps are the main problem (faders and pot shafts are already tall enough to need cutting). I'll likely be slicing up what I need out of modeling clay, fine tuning the shape, greasing them up, and then setting them into a shallow tray of resin or plaster to get a mold for the finals. There's probably a bunch of material that could be used for the models though. The duplicates will be made with fiberglass resin, tinted with paint, but I'm not sure I can get the desired color without spraying them afterward. I'll probably make them just slightly smaller than my panel holes, so they don't scrape or bind. I'll install them with the PCB mounted to the panel and may put temporary shims of paper or thin tape on the inside edges of the panel holes to make sure they sit perfectly centered when they are being glued to the stock caps. Hope that helps, George PS- In my case, I actually need different shapes than what the buttons have. If you don't, it may not be a bad idea to just try to jack the legs up longer like others have suggested. With mine, I had also considered doing that, using those round machine pin legs from an IC socket and soldering them to the end of the original legs.

I'd been watching this in the computer section of the local Craigslist here. It started at 200 or 250, down to 150 or something and eventually showed up today in the "free" section. Called, got his name, gave him mine and said I'd be there within fifteen minutes (I think it took me ten). "Oh, some other guy just came and got it. I tried to call you." People suck. >:( It was listed as first come, but when some guy says he's leaving right now and some random guy shows up, you could at least tell him to wait a few minutes just in case the first guy doesn't show. Not to mention gas is fifty thousand dollars a gallon now. He probably even asked the other guy if he was me when he got there, so that guy sucks too just for taking it. >:( >:(

Nico, Hope you get answers to some of this. I was hoping to do one myself in the future, but was thinking I'd have to go with an alternate means of displaying current parameter values (either a readout per encoder or a global value display). I did a control for an EQ last year that I never got around to building an app for, where I've got indicators to show which pots/faders aren't in sync value-wise while it's in "set" mode. That's for a mastering EQ though, where I wouldn't have to be constantly changing channels or presets on it. What I really want is one like you're talking about for channel EQs. Motorized pots would make it a heck of a lot nicer and allow for a more appropriate selection of knobs. I *thought* when I looked around at them, there were certain ones that were only a few dollars a piece, but I could have been looking at something totally incompatible. Good luck on it! George

Coincidentally, I've thought about putting a core inside this crap and replacing most of the guts, but there's too much stuff piled up on the to do list here. Wouldn't it be nice if all the LED/switch boards in it had onboard shift registers and those five pin connections for the MBHP stuff. ;D Most of its functions are sort of redundant in the DAW age, but it would have been great back in the ADAT-era. I think if it came out now it would probably implement one of the common controller protocols or at least have some sort of generic outgoing signals for most of the buttons. None of the wheel signals are recognized by Nuendo and that cool monitor/rec LED matrix only responds to internal activity (it doesn't stay in sync if you use any virtual buttons on your host). Also, the nine digit display reads and displays incoming MTC, and has labels for beats, but it doesn't actually respond to MIDI clock (you have to manually create a "SMPTE to beat" tempo map (...yuck). On the plus side, if you did replace the boards with MBHP compatibles, the majority of the buttons and labels would still be relevant even as a DAW control. I've attached a picture. It really is a beautiful piece of hardware and doesn't go for all that much now when it shows up. George - BTW, those numeric buttons feel as good as they look. It's also not as big as it appears (only around 8"x12").

Thanks again. :D That eventually pointed me in the right direction. I found a manual for some sort of RS422 MMC converter box which had a small list of recognized MMC commands at the end. The '42 01' is a "read position" command, so I guess it's polling for the current timecode address. I fed the Cuepoint some MTC from a second machine while watching the output in MIDIOx and that stream of mess started and stopped each time the master device was idle. I'll still be looking for a way to kill it, but it's at least nice to know what it was. :) George

Roger, Thanks! I don't have any way set up right now to see if any DAW app responds to that message, but I have a feeling they don't. I'm actually pretty disappointed in its overall communication with the DAW apps. It can arm tracks and control playback, but very little comes back to the Cuepoint (it's about an 80% one-way link), and I have yet to see the scroll wheel control anything, but it does spit out a stream of movement data. The constant message definitely isn't a reply to anything either. If I switch it to JLCooper CS-10 emulation mode, the message stops, but starts back up when I have it set to address any MMC device. There has to be a more complete listing of those oddball commands somewhere. :-\ George

Been playing with a JLCooper locator (Cuepoint) again here. It repeatedly spits out this obnoxious message the whole time it's on, and I don't see it listed in this MMC wiki page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIDI_Machine_Control Message is: F0 7F 00 06 42 01 48 F7 ??? ??? Thanks, George PS- It doesn't look as continuous/heavy as a timecode stream or anything (more like a fast pulsing), plus it runs in stop mode,etc. and the data part never changes. The device itself is strictly transport control/time display/track arming stuff. It has a wheel, but this is while the wheel is nulled and sitting still. (here's a message from some wheel movement: F0 7F 00 06 47 03 08 20 00 F7 )

That's a question those of us who actually use MOTU's non-USB XP drivers have been asking for years. ;D

You're right Enth (just checked one here :)). There appears to be a similar pair (Last Session.ini & Last Session_u.ini) in the "Presets" folder inside the nLite program folder on this machine that I built my images on. I think I've seen those things posted in the nLite forum before, but I'm guessing they assume the user you share with has a copy of the same Windows install disk (don't know about builds or service pack versions). The one I got from the Reaper forum was the whole CD image. George

Let me know if you find out. ;) That was one of the things I wasn't too happy about on that hackintosh. I knew there was way too much stuff that I didn't need on there and I had no idea how to go about stripping it out. I also couldn't get the GUI "flattened out" like I like it. There was still some animation and candy on there, even after turning stuff off. George PS @Sasha- One of the cool things about that NLite was the interface's descriptions of all the different components and checkboxes. It's much better than what I've seen with Windows custom installs,etc. You should be able to get around in it on your own, and it's rewarding to have all of your own custom options and know what you removed. I started with the one from the Reaper forum, but soon made my own. If you set up the install from a machine with net access, anything with a generic description can usually be looked up on Google for better info (how I did mine). -Good Luck!

Doesn't it make some "last session" file or something with all the changes in it? If you guys are into that stuff, you should check out "Windows Fundamentals for Legacy PCs". I run an NLited XP on my studio machine, but I've tried that, as well as an NLited 2Ksp4 and a variety of XPLite/TweakUI installs. I'm pretty sure WinFLP was the fastest, but it comes at a cost of some missing components. NLite can be the same way if you need something after the install. I had WinFLP on a P3 and it was plenty fast. It wouldn't run Nuendo at first, but I managed to do weird installs of DirectX and some Windows Media junk which got it the parts it was after. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Fundamentals_for_Legacy_PCs BTW- Never did get my OSX imaging crap straight. I managed to Ghost a Mac formatted system partition, but for some reason, couldn't dump the image back onto the partition later on (Ghost wouldn't see the Mac part as a valid destination). Still open to suggestions on a better DOS-based imaging app. ???

Don't know how thick a material they can handle, but those hand held "hole puncher" things seem to create little circles about the size to cover a 5mm LED. One of the industrial grade (table top) ones that does all three holes might do thicker material too, but I'm not sure what material would work for diffusion.

Frailn- So, are you "bmsobczyk" or do we hate him? ;D

Seriously! :o Is that really your main machine Stryd? I'd send you a P3 or something if the shipping isn't murderous. George