stryd_one

Ye, I bet you could too! >:( *mutters something under his breath about those damned German engineers* *drives away in his AMG* :D

[me=stryd_one]waves to Cesar and JC and the rest of the crew[/me] Wish I could have been there, it looks fun, and seems like you did an ace job of teaching the crew :) And you look good in red :D

Well I have to say, that's a really effective way to get nice high-res shots of your pcb! Unfortunately I'm still not sure what's going wrong, but I'll try to help :) Err, darn... that r-net is what I was hoping to look at... How is it connected? I don't see any adjacent connections on the PCB under where the grey wires are, so I guess it's soldered direct to the PIC socket? Whichever way, this test: Should be viewed as having suspect results because there is certainly more than one change involved between tests (remove pic, desolder 4 joints, replace pic: that's 6 changes). Maybe no big deal, but worth noting... I notice you were a bit liberal with the solder... Even at such high res and zoomed into 200% I was not completely sure that the button joints didn't short each other. I didn't really look at the rest of the board but it's definitely a haven for shorts, what with the veroboard and unshielded wires and extra solder combined.. It might be worth using some braid or something to take some of that solder out of the equation.... I'm not sure... :(

Your description makes it sound that way... but the pins should be set as inputs... I'd be checking for software bugs but it's worked for everyone else so far, so hardware still seems the culprit. Are you able to show pics of your board?

You've hit the nail on the head - I'd be looking at the pullups with my meter... Where does the 5V become 0?

hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint Oh look, the paypal link is back in the corner hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint hint :D

Welcome back mate :D I guess it went well then! Hey, is that Wilba next to the hot redhead Or just a clone?

Edit: Sorry SLP I didn't see your post until after I'd posted this :) They both do autorouting (automatic creation of tracks) although it's advisable to avoid it where possible, as autorouting has some rather questionable results. You might like to use the autorouter, and keep the parts that are good, and do the remaining tracks by hand... You'll probably need to do a 'tidy up' of the autorouted tracks you want to keep. If you find you prefer eagle but still want bigger boards, you can probably make some kind of split layout and join it with wires...

[me=stryd_one]dims the lights and grabs some popcorn[/me] This is going to be fun to watch :) Welcome aboard!

A sign of a well administered system :D Good work!

:o DR00L.

Well, let's start with a few questions: What software or hardware are you trying to control? (eg Ableton Live, Access Virus, etc) Have you confirmed the format in which the above expects relative controls to be sent? (eg is it 0x40+/-incrementer, or 0x40/0x41, or 0x00, 0x63, etc) What midibox app are you trying to modify? (eg MB64e, custom app, etc) These answers will help us to figure out what you need, so I can help you make it :)

Your wiring looks good, and yes you could certainly make a custom board for it... eagle might not let you make such a big board though, so I'm not sure how you feel about kicad? As for dual layer, you can probably make it single layer, and maybe use a few air wires if you want to etchh your own board.

Video store references for you both... For an idea of what the old ones will sound like (and what you'll look like with it on), hire a copy of 'Memphis Belle'. In the studio, probably useful for some portishead-style character ;) For a look at a more modern variant on some navy grunts, see 'Children of the Sun'. Sadly I haven't toyed with those so I can't say what they'll sound like... I know they're designed to pick up a very low whisper/mumble, so I'd say they might be a bit interesting. If you know someone in signal corps, the mic won't be classified, so I'm sure you could get a listen. tilt, it's funny you should mention that idea... they'd be great for that, because they pick up very little background noise. I dunno why I've never seen it done! Somehow I bet smash has.... ;)

Damn :( Thanks for taking care of it guys. Few more bugs: Can't delete or add tags (it jumps to the forum index) ucapps.de and wiki links missing up top of page No pressure, just letting you know :)

Heheh yeh they're kinda small huh? ;) I know that there's a lot there but... read through this thread, as we have discussed the board design in some length already, including such matters as how to possibly avoid the need for 4layer fabrication. I think the info will be helpful to you. Remember to do your layouts in kicad (not eagle). That step was a 'must' for this project as the boards required are too large for free eagle.

There is code in the C section on ucapps that will translate easily to ASM... Essentially you send 0x40 plus incrementer. There are a few ways to send incremental ('relative') midi CCs, which way is right, depends on what software you are sending to. Is it traktor perhaps? edit: CODE :)

I do have a very Dr gadget physique these days... :-[

Ahh it *is* a T30 :) Yeh the upside of sending millions to their death, is that there's millions of items of equipment left over afterwards. These aren't exactly rare yet. Still, it seems a shame to destroy it. You'll be able to find jacks to match this if you want to. If memory serves (been a while since I had hands on these), the two mics are used for purposes of redundancy only (and balance, but that's mechanical, and not of interest I guess) - they'll be passively mixed (very little chance of phase cancellation there, it's the same source in both, so a 180degree phase shift would be very strange), and after that, the PTT button should be cutting off the GND line that leads to the instrument panel. You should be able to do some quick tests with it by clamping alligator clips to the connector. It'll be quite high impedance (not only because of the pair of mics in parallel, but because of the design of the equipment to which it connects), and of course you'll need to hold in the PTT button to hear anything out of it :)

Sounds like you should fix your PSU first.......... Sounds like you have the power wired in serial.

What if you disconnect the LCD backlight only, but leave it otherwise (data lines etc) connected? When you disconnect the LCD, can you play sounds? As in: How sure are you, that it's 'alive' when the LCD is not there?

Hmm... You may be about to hack to pieces a rare collectible there... I'd strongly urge you to get a socket to match, so you can solder a standard jack to that.... No need to destroy a piece of history forever.... anyways... Depending on the model, the two pickups may be used for simple additional input levels, noise cancelling (phase inversion), redundancy, all kind of things. That pic is really small, but these look like the old military pilot's mics? Do you have a part number etc for it? You might even find that this mic won't work with your equipment. Either way, I'd say it's very very unlikely to be a stereo mic. Keep in mind that stereo records only came about in the 60's and this looks like a 50's headset (if not somewhat older - actually it reminds me of the standard mic for US bomber crews from WWII).... Not to mention that having a stereo signal of a mono source would be uhm... weird ;)

Yeh, that occurred to me too! Strange machines.... :P Glad it's working!

Yo Daniel :) Did you install the toolchain as per the wiki "quickstart" here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart ? After that, you can just type 'make' in the directory where you have downloaded and extracted the MB16 zip file. If that fails, If you paste error messages in here, I'll help you work out what went wrong.

LOL :D Yeh, these are Eagle 4 files, using Eagle 4 is the correct solution; using Eagle 5 to convert them after downloading is the workaround... On that topic.... I've seen quite a few eagle 4 users denounce v5... Is it something in particular that makes it not-so-hot?