stryd_one

[img=http://C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\OPL3R1ba.gif] I don't have access to that file :) (Try clicking 'Additional Options' when posting, to attach images) This sounds very unusual... accidentally removing pads while *de*soldering is par for the course, but while soldering... I'd be checking the temperature of my iron, if I were you... Aside from that, I'd confirm what these pins do exactly, and then you can see if they are a suitable candidate for running wires to the pins, from elsewhere on the board.

Sounds like a faulty switch or wiring to me... Have you tried swapping the switch out with a spare?

LOL sounds like you have your priorities in the correct order ;)

Googling and searching this forum for 'edrum' will get you lots of info about peizos and AINs :)

A quick search around showed me that those switches are a bit special - I'd almost certainly say that these are custom. They're a membrane (not a pushbutton), and each key contains two contacts which are vertically spaced, which allows for velocity sensitivity: http://musicscienceguy.vox.com/library/photo/6a00cd972aa36b4cd5011015f5dc82860b.html I went on a short hunt for hex keycaps a while back but came up blank, so I'd like to know what you find - keep us posted, clem :)

Google has some goodies:

The DPDT socket refers to a switching socket. The idea with these, is that when the jack is not inserted, it is "like they are not there", but inserting a jack breaks the internal connection, and instead routes the signal into the jack. They're needed for inputs (so that the switch connects the input to GND when no jack is inserted) but not for outputs. Googling switching audio jack will probably get you some schematics etc for a more detailed explanation :)

Mine: SmashTV JDM. (support your local!)

:D

True! The trick there, is to remember that the schematic pdfs are all on ucapps.de :)

8) Perrrrty!

Very generous, good on you unitsound!

Another finished midibox! What a great way to start the week :)

Very nice :) I think if it were mine, I would spraypaint the case to match that nice dark grey panel.... I really like that panel :D

Badass! Yes, please!

Oooh local panelz, nice work levon!! :D

Sorry man! Obviously I thought this was the type where the targets are worn... LOL, Missed by *that much* :D hahahaah If your instructor isn't keen on measuring force, I'd be going for some kind of reed switch, probably roll-your-own. Especially if you can find some nice spring steel for the switch actuator, and suspend the pads above the contact point, they should last forever, and you won't have concerns about isolation of peizo triggers - which is gonna be darn-near impossible if you're tkd-kicking a stationary frame, and would probably be detrimental given that you want to know if the person half-misses the target and catches the neighbouring pad in addition to the intended one (or if they just plain miss it entirely). If measuring force does become a goal later on, then I'd be going for FSRs, given that you now have a nice stable platform on which to mount them. Although you can get some very thick and strong impact grade plywood, I probably wouldn't use something like that as a backboard for this, because it tends to splinter quite badly when it does break, and you wouldn't want to pass a foot/leg through a hole like that. I'd probably stick with solid timber for the frame, and use the ply only for the pads themselves. That being said, I'd design the whole thing so that it can be replaced in parts... TKD players, play rough ;) One of the ideas in my big draft was that you could use an LTC module to send data in realtime from the pads to a PC/laptop/etc, which could give some nice features: As well as logging data (which could also be done direct to a bankstick) and visualising it nicely (which could also be done to a lesser extent with a large 7segment display), you could also do some programming in realtime, (inserting delays, turning on 'moving targets', other tricky buttons, or even just queueing up predetermined sequences) which could be handy because you can expect the yudansha to try and cheat the system ;) ... at least now, I don't have the concern that the person wearing the targets would have to wear a 'tail' like in fencing competition: those things are a PITA. Am I heading in the right direction this time? :D

Heheh thanks man... I think? :D How to measure the strikes was what was really making me go in circles. My Tkd experience is limited but I've done quite a bit of Hap Ki Do, which is partially derived from it, so hopefully I can apply it :/ I know the theory is the same regarding quick recoil in strikes. I imagine your master would probably carry an interest in the amount of time the contact was made for, as well as how hard it was (you don't need to kick someone hard to knock them from a horse, but if you don't take your foot back in a hurry they may decide to use their sword and take your foot with them to the ground.... among other practical reasons) One of the things that was tricking me a bit, was that using switches to time the strike could easily result in false hits, as could peizos... I'm not sure if your Master teaches a method of blocking where the blocking hand will rest against the body (usually derived from sword practice, you don't want to have the back side of one whack you from a distance) or how much throwing/grappling you're doing, but that could be an issue... But peizos and FSRs bear some nice properties, like peizos are nice and thin and can be quite sensitive. But then again they don't really tell you if they're being pushed or pulled or just shaken about. FSRs will only register pressure, so there's much less chance of false hits, but without a very stable surface to mount them on (iie, not a bouncy human) the readings will vary too much to be very useful as far as a "how hard did she hit him?" measurement. this pdf has some good info on those limitations. I dunno if it sounds kinda crazy, but it seems to me that all three could be a nice combination, or at least two: the peizos and fsrs combined will mean that fsrs will indicate inward force (ie probably a hit) and that can be used to arm the recording of the corresponding peizo for a more useful shock/force measurement. You'd need to have a kind of sandwich assembly for the FSRs to do the trick, but the peizos are well suited to that too. That still leaves the possibility of an accidental trigger by the wearer of the sensors, by blocking, or being pushed, or entering a grapple etc, which is where the switches could be handy, as they can also be used to exclude any 'hits' which are too long, as well as too short....... if you hit someone, you probably lose contact with them within a hundred or so milliseconds, but if you try to drag/push them around, you will usually hold on for at least double that... Because you're not doing something like dim mak, you won't need quite so many sensors, which is good news; if you can scan the FSR/peizo pairs fast enough, you might be able to use the transitions of the FSR instead of real switches. That'll depend greatly on the particular FSRs you source. MIOS will read 8 AINs every 100us, so I think you could run a lot of sensors in theory... it's just a matter of finding the FSRs with the right response curve, so they're useful as a switch ... Sorry that's a bit ramble-ey... You can imagine what it was like before I had some direction ;) Hope it helps!?

Well it looks good in leather cause I didn't even recognise it :D

LOL Good luck!

That's *very* thin... are you sure?

Nice :) Where on earth did you find such a unique case?

Like, totally bodacious duuuude :D Oh btw, at least in my home elcheapo lab, those are nothing special, just a wrist strap, worn around the ankle instead.

I thought the info on PPR, detents per rotation, driver support, links to forum writeups and other FAQs might be handy? Don't just stop at that one page of course :) A forum search for 'encoder support' turned out 9 pages of hits, but I don't really have time to read them all for you... Might be worth a look? I can't see any info on ucapps, but I only took a quick look....

Yeh, they should work. :) Disclaimer: Note that I said "should" not "will" because I've not had them sitting in front of me, actually working... Because noone here has, that's the best answer you can get - you're going to have to be a pioneer. Let's put it like this: I'd buy one. But, Don't send me a bill if they don't work please :D