Jump to content

intellijel

Programmer
  • Posts

    107
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

About intellijel

  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

intellijel's Achievements

MIDIbox Addict

MIDIbox Addict (2/4)

0

Reputation

  1. I need to get 33 switches like this: http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNpgQRst%2ftFpqQ9OkJJfqOt%2fo%3d Or from Reichelt: http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTICLE=7248 They are for the MB-808 project and I missed out on the group buy of them. The price is very steep, especially since I need 33 of them so I was wondering if by chance anyone has some extra stock of either of these buttons from a larger order they made in the past?
  2. It has now been a long time and no case options have materialized. I am not putting any blame but it is time to move on and find different options. I am currently using mfg.com to source quotes for panel/enclosure work. If the pcb is released along with panel info then I will draw up the mechanical diagrams for an enclosure in soldiworks and I will be happy to share the files.
  3. I should clarify that yes indeed I am trying to design midi controller modules not an actual mixer. I just want the layout to look like a mixer. The mb64 is definitely what I would expect to use for the brains per limited set of modules (e.g. one core supports a max of 4 modules).
  4. My quest to find a digital mixer that has analog style interface (e.g. lot's of knobs for eq and aux sends) that can be used as a midi controller is not turning up any good options. So the next step is to build my own with ucapps stuff. I think the smartest way to do this is to design a midi controller channel strip onto a PCB that would be vertically mounted. This would mean that all the pushbuttons, pots and fader would be right angled but then they could all be on one pcb and their heights adjusted properly to fit with the front panel. The design probably work with a Midibox 64 configuration with a certain number of pcb modules (channels) supported per midbox core. Maybe it would be good to have three separate pcbs: 1. channel strip (looks like a mixer: fader, mute/solo, 4 pots for eq with sweepable mid, 1 pot pan, 2 aux sends). This would total 8 pots so a single midibox core would support 8 channels of this module. It would also be good to have some DAW controls too like a launch/stop clip button for ableton users.` 2. synth control strip (mixture of knobs and buttons and status leds but still a volume fader, mute/solo buttons. 3. master section strip (for aux returns etc.) This could possibly be the synth strip as well. Users can make their own master volume pot or any other additional controls. If the pcbs are designed to be connected with ribbon connectors and possibly have the DIN/AIN/DOUT modules integrated into them then the build time for these would be very quick. I don't think these would be too complicated to do but I do not have any experience making PCBs. Has anyone already built something like this that is ready to go? (i.e. willing to share their pcb designs so I can get some boards made) Something we could collaborate on as a group to get bulk pricing for the pcbs?
  5. I really want a midi controller that has the same layout and UI as a 16 channel analog mixer like a mackie 1604 or A&H mixwizard. Older models of 1604's are really cheap on the used market (<$500) and the behringer rip-off versions are even cheaper. Has anyone ever taken a behringer mixer and gutted it to use it as the enclosure for their midibox? As long as it had panel mounted pots you could replace all of them with your own 10k pots. The fader+mute/solo switch section might be tricker...it may be possible to hack up the pcbs in there and mod them so you can re-use them. Maybe even the whole channel strip can be re-used if you cut traces and replace some of the pots. This would save a lot of money on the UI elements such as an enclosure, front panel and knobs.
  6. I am one of the guys Ralf gave the files to and he was also really helpful about answering questions. He is definitley supportive of the midibox/diy community! I have also been following the LiveAPI project for quite a while and was able to make some interesting prototypes but I gave up on the project for the exact reasons that Ralf stated. I was too worried that something would get broken on subsequent Live releases and the whole time I was pretty much waiting for the MFL features to be implemented. That being said I found the APC40 to be a disappointing controller but it at least demonstrates some of the new potential. It is definitely encouraging me to finish my own custom controller in time for when MFL gets released. Looking at how the APC40 integrates with live gives me some insight as to what my controller should be able to do as well (since it can use the same functionality/protocol via MFL). I look forward to more details about the MFL objects so that I can plan even more functionality but I guess for now I should be patient. I see Ralf's invitation to suggest features and changes as golden opportunity to help the DIY community, not as a means to increase Abelton revenue. Part of the reason the DIY community exists is as a reaction to the fact that most corporations don't listen to their users or create documented, open API's. For once there is a company that is doing this so we should encourage it...I think it will help the DIY community more than it will help them.
  7. I am at work right now but I am realising that I loaded the main.hex but NOT MIOS!!! I think when I go home and load MIOS I may see the results I was expecting :P cheers Danjel
  8. yeah I just checked the lcd module on an old core module that I know it used to work with and it doensn't. This means the cable or the module has been damaged. cheers, Danjel
  9. I have a smashtv core module with the latest bootloader and MB64 loaded onto it. The MIOS studio is showing a steady stream of sysex messages received so I assume the board is operating. However the LCD screen only displays a row of white squares. I tried sending text to it via MIOS studio with no luck. It also displays no text on startup, just straight to squares. I tried adjusting the luminence and contrast of the lcd but only the contrast pot seems to have an effect. Do I need to have any of the input pins grounded on the core to test the LCD? Possible fault in my core? lcd cable? I hope I am missing something obvious because this LCD screen+cable worked on another one of my cores. cheers, Danjel
  10. Is 2mm aluminum ok for a frontpanel? What is an ideal thickness for a durable panel (e.g. does not dent too easily)
  11. using different pcbs is not an option for this design. On the datasheet for the panasonic pots there is one that is 7.5mm tall: EVUF2K If I used this and reduced my front panel thickness I could make it work. Trouble is that it is not available at digikey.ca or mouser.com
  12. I am making a controller with pcb mounted pots, sliders and tact switches. The problem I am having is with making sure everything will protrude through the frontpanel at an appropriate height. The problem component is the pcb mounted pots. All the ones have bodies that are slightly too tall (or just on the borderline) relative to the height of the tact switches with caps. I have looked at a bunch of different combinations of different pots with different switches+caps but with the same issue. These are the parts I would like to use: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=SW801-ND tact switch http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=SW255-ND switch cap http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=PP1045SB-ND slider http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P3E5103-ND pot the body height of the pot: 8.5mm the height of the tact switch with cap is 10mm and it need to protrude by 1mm from the front panel. If I have a 2.5mm front panel then that means the max height the pot can be is 6.5 mm. So my two choices: 1. Find nice tact switches+caps that are much taller 2. Find pots that are shorter bodied Any tips for this? I made 3d models to see how everything lined up and this is where I really noticed I had a problem. Maybe my real question is: What is a good low operating force, inexpensive, reliable tact switch that has colored cap options and is greater than 12mm in height ?
  13. thanks for the nkk tip (I had seen them there before but wasn't sure). These are illuminated type: http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/M2100.pdf Could be cool but freakin' expensive! I still stick to my illuminated omron switches for now
  14. I am looking to source switches like the ones used on the Korg Zero 8 for the mute/solo I think it is a form of three position toggle but has a really smooth a durable feel: http://www.korg.com/Zero8/Zero8_kh2.jpg basically something I can flick quickly like I would on a DJ mixer. Any ideas?
  15. That cross pattern would be bad for the rgb led (hard to spread out the leads like that). I need something like this: http://www.richco-inc.com/group_details.asp?seccode=500&grpcode=L1060 I already checked digikey mouser and did the google thing. Most of them don't even stock rgb leds to begin with...not sure why this would still be considered such a specialty item that you need to buy it from ebay or led stores. cheers, Danjel
×
×
  • Create New...