cimo

buh it seems like i am not really able to get this stuff working as it should, light is a bit dim and slow if i go over 35W lamps

This is the schem i am going to try now:

So far: with up to 35W lamp per channel it works as a charm with the latest schematic, just a single bc547 and a couple of resistors. Problems come with a 50W lamp and up, it can tswitch it on completely or turn it off completely depending on the resistors value i use. From what i ve learned these days, i am not supplying enough current to the 2n3055 be junction so the transistor can handle all the current required by the 50W lamp, over 4A. My plan was to go all the way up to 70W per channel. Would that be a good idea to use another transistor instead of the bc547? maybe something that can handle more current? Or is it just a matter of using the proper resistor value? Thanks

I ve just changed the logic state of douts in the code so now it s ok as it is i go and try it with 85W now thanks

i ve changed it and it seems to be more responsive this way See the attached shematics, i understand why it s inverted but i don t understand why if i reply the same circuit and add in serie as i had it before it is still inverted, am i missing something? thanks

Well it is working but: 1- it s inverted, when the dout is on the light goes off 2-it s slow to power on and off (???) 3-i can t really reach a perfect no-light and full brightness The change have been reducing all values of the resistors as suggested by Philtaylor I d really appreciate any kind of help. Thanks

hi i am now triggering the 2n3055 but i need to go and check it with a 100W load. I ll be back soon (I hope) Simone

hheeelllllpppp The first stage works, i get 12 volts at every pulse from a dout but somehow the power stage does t get activated an di think that maybe the first stage can t supply enough current to trigger the power transistor. I measured just 1mA between the 2 stages that is between R3 and Q3 base. Which resistors should i change to increase the current available at the output of the fisrt stage? thanks

Hi since the whole thing is to be mounted in a metal structure i was wondering if i can use the chassis to carry the GND lie, is this a good idea? All in all that s the way it is built in cars. Simone

Tilted 1 -- Cimo = 0 >:( this is incorrect, just a typo? that should n t be a problem, but i ve destroyed some 74165s just with static Can you try to swapt the 2 SRs on both the placements? In this way you can bu sure if they are ok or not Simone

Hi remember to delete and unused number boxes, especially in the demo apps there are plenty of them just to help you figure out what s happening, but they can slow down terribly the OS. Delete also any unused part of the patch. Simone

you get plenty of demo apps with PD

...tsk tsk

Here we go with an idea for a single channel, it should drive about 100W at 12v. (looking good?) but now that i come to think about it: i could use just a single bc547 and invert the 0 and 1 state of the DOUT.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0fs8vLOEiCs The message body was left empty.

easy http://dev.eyebeam.org/projects/reware/blog/40 eeee ok some more links http://www.ucc.asn.au/~rvvs89/ipl/nightly/pzmodules.tar.gz http://rvvs89.ucc.asn.au/ipl/nightly/appearance.tar.gz http://dev.eyebeam.org/projects/reware/wiki/pdPod%20Howto http://dropbox.at.or.at/dropbox/reware-pdpod-0.0.tar.bz2 group_id=236704&package_id=302437'>http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php? group_id=236704&package_id=302437

Just an uptodate for you to follow up: Thanks to Reichelt s cheap prices and Lucem advice i came up with the following: -Each group of light will carry 3x 50W (12v) halogen lights. -Each group will be connected to a DOUT with 2 bc547 and a final power stage with a 2N 3055, the power transistor will be mounted on a large heatsink and i ll use 2mm² copper wire to connect the transistor to the pcb and to the battery -I ll solder close to each transistor 3x 4700 uF capacitors -All cables from the transitors going to the battery will be tied together directly on the battery, avoiding having a single cable to carry the whole current. ... more ideas ?

mmm let s go back to the 12 volts idea. I ll have, let say, 16 outputs with 2x 40W/12v (6.7A) That makes for 108A, that would be for maximum load. battery<-->108A<-->distribuition box<-->6.7A<-->"light block" My only worries are about the PCB that will carry the transistors, since there would be a considerably load of current on the copper layer. MRE: i was not planning to use step down transformer with the 220v setup, and i don t understand: a 12 volts 50W light requires a thicker cable than a 220 volts 50W one, doesn t it? Simone

maaan it took you a while uh? me with 18 i already knew it

si

Hi it s hard to say, but 1N4148 are among the most common parts, so if you have some scrap electronic trash you could probably find one, where do you live? I can ship you a couple of 4148s tomorrow.np Simone

ciao risulta curioso come la maggior parte degli Italiani che passano di qua ultimamente stanno tutti cercando di automatizzare via MIDI degli effetti analogici o comunque senza entrata MIDI. Se dai una occhiata ai thread precedenti nel forum in italiano, vedrai che si e gia discusso varie volte. Cerca i posts di Dimetree Simone

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_knob http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_panel_(engineering) sorry just a bit in a hurry, hope that helps You could actually dim the brightness and therefore select contrast rate using a pwm on some free pic s pins but that has never been done before as far as i can remember.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_panel_(engineering)

but that would be just for the 12 volts path then i could use 1mm cable formt he inverter to the ditribuitor and then just 0.75mm. ok, more details: we are desperately short on money, and time for that it matters.I am going to use those Triacs with, in case, some optoisolators, btw any advice for optoisolators that can be found at Reichelt or RS Components?

good points but i forgot to mention some details: -I am not going to strap stuff on her body, she s going to carry a 200-300 kilos wheeled "stuff" and the system is going to be inbuit there, and i can also isolate the parts that she is touching form the rest of the frame -The idea is to use a step up transformer so the only "thick cabled" connection would be 20-30 cms -The whole thing will last only 210 seconds and only once -Would a sealed plastic box be of any help? -Yep, that s what i meant, i just used the wrong word