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Therezin

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Posts posted by Therezin

  1. This is another thing that's been getting to me too - I might have been hanging around here for ages, but I'm still at the planning stages of my SID. I bought all the bits for the optimised PSU, but the shop I got the bits only had 100nF in ceramic and 330 in mylar. Would there be any problem using them like this?

  2. 2A is more than enough. Should work.

    That's what I thought - having no idea on the power draw of the whole thing I couldn't be sure, but 2A sounds plenty big enough for a CORE, SID, DIN, DOUT and PLED, even if i chose to upgrade to 4 SIDs in the future.

  3. AFAIK there's no real difference, at least not with what we call a jigsaw or a scroll saw round here. The main thing seems to be that scrollers come with narrower blades so you can cut tighter curves - but you can put the same kind of blade in a jigsaw so there's no real difference. Just make sure you use a blade with many small teeth, not the wood-cutting blade that comes with most jigsaws. A hacksaw would probably be better, but you could probably get away with a jigsaw by placing the PCB like a sandwich between some blocks of wood, like c0nsumer mentioned.

  4. In the schematic the pins of the 7809 are numbered 1,2,3 from left to right. In the datasheet of the 7809 (which I refered), pin 3 is the middle one. So I connected them the wrong way and grilled it. Good to have some spare parts.  :D

    Ouch, I better look out for that one when I start putting together mine - my local electronics place could only offer a 7809 in 100mA, and i'm not going mail-order for a single part!

  5. Jog-wheels: Depending on the way that VDJ handles the inputs on record positioning and so on, I think the best solution would just be a simple rotary encoder - even a detented one (one with "click-stops") could be used, as I'm told it is a relatively simple matter to convert them to non-detented operation.

    Power/shielding concerns: Every midibox ever built is powered off DC. AC current will introduce interference, but the general concensus is that DC will not, even in the same cable - look at Wisefire's Midibox Axe thread (http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=6431.0) for more info.

    The only thing I can think of with the 2.56" spacing as you call it is to space out everything such as buttons and LEDs in multiples of 2.54mm, since veroboard (vectorboard, prototyping board, stripboard) is set out with holes 2.54mm apart (The reason it's such a strange number as 2.54 is because it's 0.1 of an inch). If you're mounting your frontpanel switches and LEDs on veroboard, then you're in for a headache if you don't space them that way.

    Oh yeah, tact switch covers: I've not really found too many great ones, but they are out there. Hopefully someone will reply to this thread with where they can be found, so I can get some of the damn things as well  :P

    /Edit: Added URL for midibox axe

  6. CS layout looks pretty good to me - although I tend to prefer a full CS, the designer in me likes the idea of stripping it back to only what you need. As for the board layout, the image doesn't appear to show the whole board. Is this for a reason, or just some sort of bug with putfile?

  7. That's a pretty cool idea, I'd not thought of using plasti-dip in that way before. I was about to put a thread in the parts questions to see if anybody knew where i could get white soft-touch knobs, but with this stuff I could make my own!

    @Davo or SmashTV: What kind of feel does it have when it's been applied? Is it glossy to look at?

    Cheers,

    Dan

  8. In the UK B&Q sell some aluminium tool cases, but I'm not sure how big you're after - any idea what sort of size? Most DIY places should sell something, and so should any "cash & carry" type stores that have tools.

    On a similar note, I'm contemplating building a steel carry case for my guitar FX unit out of angle steel and treadplate (the steel sheeting with little raised diamonds to make it non-slip) - it's the most awkward shape out there, so I'm gonna head down to my dad's steel fab place and weld one up myself. Would there be anyone interested in seeing the finished article? It may not exactly be midibox-related but the basic steps can be applied to any enclosure made out of steel.

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