SLP

dunno. I guess they're requesting the current (at least the heaters. 100mA seem to be sufficient for LED-lamps and weak fans). Current is charge/time. when you want to measure the current, you have to basically 'count' all the electrons that go through the usb-cable in a certain amount of time. Therefore you have to break the circuit and put your multimeter in between. what you've described was measuring the voltage (drop) across a device. heh... I actually did that some years ago with my attempt to build MBHP-USB-MIDI-Interface (the old one with the AN2131SC-IC). I somehow managed to get a big drop of solder into the USB-socket of the Interface, so that all 4 pins were shorted. When I plugged it in, My PC was instantly shut off, but he survived it (with the exception of one usb-port...) I guess it wasn't blacklisted because of some defective connectors. There might be some errors when it comes to sysex messages, i.e. when you want to program your PIC over MIDI (dunno how it looks like with the new CORE32). If you're looking for a incredibly cheap and relieable 5-I/O MIDI-USB-Interface, you should search the forum (and the WIKI) for "GM5". nice to hear! keep the work up and post pictures as soon as it's finished :)

Hey nzmsim! The USB-port can deliver a maximum of 100mA (can be increased to 500mA by the host if the device requests it). So I'd check the consumption of your MIDI-Interface (check the midi interface blacklist) and the consumption of your midibox. If your devices don't go above 80 mA, your idea is likely to work. May I ask why you need IR-LEDs?

Hey ANdrw, everything you connect to your midibox will send midi data. buttons, encoders, pots/faders. You could even connect a methane detector to it, so that it will send midi data when someone in the room farts. pots/encoders: =encoder&s[]=pot#what_s_the_difference_between_potentiometers_sliders_motor_faders_and_encoders]wiki

Hallo, Ich bin gerade im Begriff, mir bei Ponoko eine Frontplatte für meine Nixie-Uhr machen zu lassen. Nun musste ich leider feststellen, dass es die Ponoko-Leute immer noch nicht auf die Reihe bekommen haben, endlich mal Paypal zu implementieren. Ich bin nämlich leider nicht im Besitz einer Kreditkarte (hab noch nie eine gebraucht). Jetzt habe ich also folgende Bitte: Könnte vielleicht jemand, der im Besitz einer Kreditkarte und eines Ponoko-Accounts ist, die angehängte Ponoko-svg-Grafik für mich fertigen lassen und bezahlen*? *Die Kosten belaufen sich auf ~25$ (~20€, P1, 3mm schwarzes Plexiglas, inkl. Versand innerhalb Dtl.) und werden selbstverständlich über PayPal bzw. Banküberweisung beglichen. Wäre super, wenn mir jemand den Gefallen tun könnte. Gruß, Matthias p.s. ich musste die datei zippen. anscheinend akzeptiert der uploader keine svg dateien... nixie-front-stretched.svg.zip

IIRC, it was somewhere between 1 and 2€. But they were the cheapest ones I could find, and they feel terrible. If I were you, I'd accept Roger's offer and buy him a beer (or two) ;)

Hi Stefan, the faders will work, but they are stereo faders. This means, that they're basically two faders in one housing with one common knob. I did a quick search, but I wasn't able to find some mono faders at reichelt. This is weird, because I've bought some cheap "radiohm" faders (10k, mono) some months ago. Try searching Conrad or eBay.

Atari-Punk-Console as already posted, Weird Sound Generator (MFOS) might be a little overkill, NAND-Synth http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2007/06/quad_nand_gate_synth_the.html

absolutely :D

http://thereifixedit.com/?utm_source=network&utm_medium=banner&utm_campaign=header

I was building a MBplus 16 3 years ago. It's cheap and simple. And you want a display. at least during the act of building for troubleshooting. You can remove it afterwards. Don't be silly. leave it on or leave it off. - or use a display No idea. it should work if everything's set up properly.

dito. :frantics:

Super! Danke :) edit: angekommen! - yay!

nAbend, Falls jemand plant, in den nächsten Tagen eine Bestellung bei einem Elektronikhändler aufzugeben, würde ich mich freuen, wenn er für mich zwei oder drei BYV26C Dioden mitbestellen würde. matthias

WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU, Nils? http://www.elektronik-kompendium.de/sites/grd/1006011.htm ? I must admit that I forgot to mention that the 220Ω Resistor should be *replaced* in my case. Now I'm very excited to read your explanation :)

alright, let's have a look at the specs: Forward Voltage : 4.0V Forward Current : 20mA the sammichSID design feeds the LEDs with 5V. That is one Volt too much. Kirchhoff's circuit laws (google/wikipedia that) say that the current flowing through the resistor is as high as the current flowing through the LED (IF=20mA) R=U/I R=1V/20mA R= 1V/0.02A R=(1/0.02)Ω R=50Ω So 50Ω should be the minimum resistance you should put in series with the LED. You can experiment with some different values to reach the light intensity you want. You can always go above 50Ω, but you should never go below. Decreasing the resistor value will increase the current which will in turn heat up the LED and kill it. regards matthias edit by nILS: Nope, that's wrong. Try again. Also note the 220Ohm resistors on the CS PCB.

welcome aboard, Ender! the CC implementation chart can be found here: http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual.html (-> http://svnmios.midibox.org/filedetails.php?repname=svn.mios&path=%2Ftrunk%2Fapps%2Fsynthesizers%2Fmidibox_sid_v2%2Fdoc%2Fmbsidv2_cc_chart.txt ) regards matthias edit: I forgot to mention the SID V2 Editor: Using the editor, you can use your PC to control your SID, save patches, etc.

so the sammich-SID is more like a SID-KITT :D

calm down please. Midibox is a non-profit, DIY-community. This means, that it's forbidden to sell complete midiboxes (and make a profit with that). If you find someone who will build you a midibox "for free", that's fine then. TK has put a LOT of work into this project and he shares it with us. It's neither right nor allowed to make profit that way. If you don't want to get into midiboxing, you can just go out and buy some commercial midi-controller. Midiboxing is a lot of work, but in the end you've got your own midi-controller that is designed by you and that fits all your needs. And I think that's worth it.

hehe lol.

hehe :)

Hi folks, I've got a 16MB Panasonic SD-card I want to get rid of. It could be handy when testing it with a MB. There's nothing lost when it's damaged. oh yeah, it's for free. regards

that looks interesting: http://www.teenageengineering.com/products/op-1/ The only thing missing is a good sequencer.

J14 war eigentlich als "Strobe"-Leitung gedacht. damit ist es möglich, einfache metallflächen als taster zu benutzen. wie genau das funktioniert, weiß ich nicht. Wahrscheinlich wird die platte mit einem kurzen stromimpuls geladen, und dann über deinen finger entladen.... also so in der art. In deinem Fall wird J14 irgendeine "enable" leitung steuern. Damit kann der Core eben mit einer Datenleitung den SID-modulen sagen, wer von den beiden jetzt gemeint ist. schonmal den "sammichSID" angeschaut? gibts komplett als Bausätze mit Gehäuse und Platinen. Ich weiß jetzt nicht genau, welchen J1 du meinst. es gibt auf der Core-Platine einen Stromversorgungseingang, an den du praktisch alles über ~7V anschließen kannst. Das wird dann eh erst gleichgerichtet, runtergeregelt und stabilisiert. die SID-Module haben einen eigenen Stromanschluss für 9 oder 12V.Das ist abhängig von den SID-chips, die du verwendest.

http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf hier sieht man recht schön, wie das gedacht ist. mfg matthias