dengel

Finally found it again, but it appears that "Bome's MIDI Translator" will do the trick: http://www.bome.com/midi/translator/download.html

That requires building one. I made one, and it got to the prototype stage, but then with my baby I had no time to build anymore - so I need a pre-built solution.

Well, overall the device is quite nice - well built (although the faders feel cheap) and responsive. My only problem is actually with Ableton itself. For reasons that I fail to understand, I cannot assign loop set-end-out commands per channel. Instead, you have to use a single buttonset, and this set controls whatever track is displaying in track view. for the non-dj, this is great, but i'd like to be able to map the loop controls seperately for each channel. the nudge controls have the same limitation. because of this, almost any controller, home built or not, can only have a single set of these controls, making it non-dj-like :(. I think that perhaps running it through an intermediary program that does a midi-macro (IE, when you push nudge on ch1's set of controls, it sends first a command to switch to ch1, THEN, to send a nudge note). The same would work for loops. But my initial impression is that it is a great controller if you use LIVE like a set of decks with self-mixing records.

Well, After years of looking and waiting for an ableton friendly MIDI controller, today I found one. It was unexpected, since technically it is marketed as a "Video Controller"... The NuVJ from Numark is about as close to a commercial unit as I am likely to get (besides the new Korg mixers) and it only ran me $250 USD. I am hooking it up now; I'll let you know how it goes.

I'll see if I can. Hell, if I have to do 2 of them it is still cheaper. BTW, the payment cleared yesterday, so I'll get the stuff ready and ship it out!

Wise and NLX... It looks like the cheapest shipping will be $34.20 USD, USPS (which is what Smash uses). If I paid $15 of that, would you be interested still?

Thanks, guys... Still trying to determine the best/least expensive method to ship this to you. Any suggestions are welcome.

thanks, TK, for moving this. Also, I'll send the power supply as well. Also, that price is shipped, BTW. EDIT: I am so sorry that I forgot what an international community Midibox is. Apparently, shipping internationally is insane. Shipping was gonna be less than 10 bux domestic, but nearly 40 is a bit of a hard pill to swallow. I found the cheapest to the Netherlands ('Best Country Name Ever' Award, BTW) was $34.20 for USPS. :o. UPS, DHL, etc were insane; over $100 in each case.

Pictures below... With the birth of my baby 6 months ago, I just have no time to devote to the project. I would like to sell my PCB's (Constructed from full-parts kits from Smash) as well as my purchased pots, encoders, and knobs (GREAT KNOBS) for under my cost. What I would be selling are : 1 Core module, flashed with m64 standard code 4 constructed and tested AIN modules 2 DIN Modules, 1 Constructed and 1 not yet built 24 small pots (see pix) with 24 machined aluminum set-screw (Ekler-type) knobs 1 rotary endless encoder w/ set screw knob some inexpensive 45mm faders (I think I have 6) some miscellaneous small parts and wire (basically whatever I have lying around related to the project). 1 m-audio Uno midi interface (ideal for a mobile setup; very small and USB powered) Adobe Illustrator files of the faceplate art (if the person wants it). I'd like to sell it for $100, which is essentially what I paid for just the PCB stuff from SmashTV plus about $25 more. The knobs were 2 bucks apiece alone, the pots a buck 50, the midi interface (a m-Audio Uno) was $40, etc etc etc.... In my sale notice, I would like to make clear that I will only sell the item to Midiboxers who had already worked with the platform, and that it is not a completed project (although I did play a couple times with it in the knob-only prototype mode shown). It would be a great start to a new m64 project for an established Boxer who didn't want to solder everything themselves yet again, and wanted some (very nice) hardware to go along with the boards. Pictures: Not shown, DINs, Misc parts, Uno.

Well, it's been a while. I have a baby now, and it is hard to find time for hobbies, but I still am trying to finish my project (the enabler). I also came across these buttons today, because of an Engadget link where they were used in a Tetris game. My whole project is on hold because of a lack of the right buttons. Anyway, I wrote with a suggestion, and got a friendly, non-canned response: ---------------------------------------------------- Hey Don, We couldn't find them either, that's why we had them made ;) Happy we could help! Nice idea with the round buttons - that would be easier to make face plates for. If we can get the normal 4x4 pad sold, we'll look into having a new tool made. Best regards, Support > > If you only knew how long I have been trying to find this: > > > > http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=7835# > > > > I have a 2-year old project that is simply waiting for the right > buttons, and for whatever reason NO ONE else in the world makes > buttons like these for non-custom, hobbyist purposes. > > > > I have one suggestion: could you make a round version, so that people > can make faceplate-style, back-mounted designs that can be drilled by > a regular drill? > > > > THANKS AGAIN. PS...What buttons did TK use for the monome-inspired design from the video on the SEQ page?

Sasha - WHERE ARE THOSE BUTTONS FROM?

You could save it as a dxf in illustrator, which a CNC machinist could use. I hand-drilled a plate, and it works OK but I am looking for a more finished look.

Hi, everybody. Well, I have been building mine for a while, but (fortunately and unfortunately) my project was sidelined with the birth of my new daughter. In any case, I am looking forward to finishing it up. A few months back, I met with an engineer friend, and he is making me re-do my technical drawings. He had crazy ideas of making the faceplate out of 1/4" aluminum plate, so a lot had to change, since instead of needing to simply make a hole, I now have to countersink my pots into the face so they can be screwed on :(. He's also having me measure every part with a micrometer so that everything is snug. It's taking a long time, but other than that the project is still on. I've played live with the prototype a couple times and liked it, but it will be fun to have it done. Hardest, most time consuming part of the entire project, in all honesty? Selecting buttons. Seriously, decent buttons are so hard to find it's almost stupid.

Meef, I'm not quite sure what you are asking about here? On the encoders, I just have autoprogrammed them in Ableton. I am still trying to work out the MIOS stuff to get the display to show what I want instead of the MIOS defaults. Good news is that today I am going to the CNC guy, finally! That means that soon I will have the device finished completely, not just the prototype version. Can't wait!

Yes, I do - look in the upper right corner for the master BPM. There's also a quant. encoder, and a scene select encoder ( the large knob next to the logo)

Those are "Quantization jumps" - basically, they jump forward and back through a track by the current global quantization setting (1/2 bar, 1 bar, 4 bars, etc). Updated, the case is built. I'm having some issues getting the CNC'd panel done though - that is my last hurdle. After that, I can do my write up/walkthrough and put this thing to bed!

Better than I could have hoped. I mapped simple start-stop-cuebuttons to the KB, and just used the knobs to control the eqs, etc. 3 hours of playtime, and not a single hiccup. I have to say that all the hard work has been worth it. It will definitely be nicer when all the real buttons are in place and I have the overlay on there in its oak case.

Well, The enabler is in the final stretch ;D: Here is the final faceplate that is getting sent to the printer (it is going to be a plastic overlay on the CNC'd panel) Note that on the first channel, I have left off the knobs (the grey flanged knobs on all the other pots) so you can see just the graphics - the knobs are there to help you imagine it as it will look when it is in a usable state. A couple changes in this design. Slightly fewer param buttons on the sends, and obviously it is vertically smaller. Also, it is 4-channel now, and I have eliminated all the "Scene Play" functions because I never play an entire scene at once - if I ever find the need, it will be so seldom that I'll just fire off with the mouse, or perhaps a KB mapping. The scene play on the board just seemed an easy way to screw up. Lastly, I am using a 4 band EQ, because 4-band is Coolio, and anyway, I had room. Also eliminated the channel gains, since you can set the gains in Live when you warp the tracks, making it not so necessary. I have the pots for it, but it just cluttered the design so out they went. I have the Hand-drilled version (has fewer buttons, and uses pine instead of Oak for the box) rigged up and as I played with it last night, I have to say that the MBHP is great. In fact, with Ableton (since it has midi-learn) you don't even need to reprogram MIOS at all - a base M64e load works just fine. I'll be doing it for completely asthetic reasons, though, just so I can see pretty stuff in the LCD. I'm preparing a walkthrough guide with pix, downloadable SVG's of the faceplate and faceplate graphics, and even a video or two (just got an Everio hd camcorder :) ), because I think that an update (for those who use Smash's boards) will be helpful to newcomers. Tomorrow night I play my first house party with the prototype, and next week the faceplate gets CNC'd.

Thanks, Smash! I had no idea what it was called or what to search for, so the link I gave was all I could come up with. I thought that it WOULD be like the arcade-type panels. Thanks for putting a name with a process.

http://www.bwind.com/inst.a.screen.htm I talked to these guys today, and they have pretty reasonable pricing on thermal-printed overlays for panels, including cutting them with the needed holes. It's a 10-mil polycarbonate sheet, backprinted and then treated with a 3m adhesive. Up to 5 or 6 colors is no extra charge, and the cutting is included in the price (regardless of the number of holes). Lead time is about 1 week or less, meaning I could have the overlays before next weekend! I'm going to get one made for my "Enabler" project, which is nearing completion. It is going to cost about $75 bux, and for that I'll probably end up with 2 pieces (9x19")

Yeah, I'd like to see a "limited time offers" section for things like eBay and Craigslist auctions. A single thread for these is not a good option, honestly. I agree with Th0mas that topics should be kept seperate. It becomes totally unusable otherwise. One other option (probably too difficult to implement unless the forum does this automatically) is to have some sort of auto-delete flag that can be set by the OP or admins for some future time - like one week, say. After this, the thread will disappear, since the auction would be over. Problem there is you'd lose potentially useful info (like in the trackball thread, for instance). I like the eBay threads - with millions of items there, finding things can be rough. It's nice when a community member sees something that other members might be interested in - that's the power of large numbers. Also, sometimes you find things you "need" in this way. You see it, and suddenly you "need" it because it has inspired a new project in your mind, or maybe the parts on the item are a cheaper replacement for something you were going to pay Mouser or Digikey crazy money for.

Audiocommander, it's no different in the US, for sure. always, always insist on a tracking number, and check that number within a few days of the supposed send date , not just when the item hasn't arrived. Some scammers are very good at running you through the "checks in the mail" game, and if they get you past that 30-day mark many of your safeharbor/ebay/credit card company protections can lapse. Lastly, I'd avoid Money Orders and WU like bird flu. Paypal (with your Credit Card as the payment method) is often the best; you get 2 levels of protection in that case - once from Paypal, again from your card company.

Rowan, that looks stunning. Great job. BTW, do you remember what buttons you used on that project and how much they cost? They look like a great style, but if they are RJS then they are just too expensive.

Yeah, ain't that the truth! The knobs alone on some of the larger behringer DJ mixers are worth about $30.Just thought that it might be a good option to cannibalize one. Too bad though about the rest of the parts, though :( EDIT: What about old control surfaces. like broken DAWs, etc? Do those suffer from the same issues, or are they more suitable?

Yeah, I was worried about the possible log aspect. So when people buy these old mixers on ebay, are they basically doing so for the faceplates and boxes only, I suppose.