henrygr

That would be great. Much appreciated.

Hello Midi-Box. Long time no sea!! That's what newborn children do!! Let that be a warning to the yonger midiboxers out there. It will come to a point of deciding between midibox.org and children. There are pros and cons to each, but I am afraid that it will have to wait for another discussion. Anyways. I am sick to death of cables. They are worse than dirty nappies dudes. So, I was wondering what success anyone may have had with remote control relays to trigger DIN and AIN on a CORE board. The idea is to put a transmitter in my foot pedals on stage, and have somewhere in the rackmount a receiver/CORE set up that will sort out the midi. Any suggestion, abuse or general ramblings welcome.

Can anyone please help me identify the name of this typ of perf board by name, as I need to buy a good bit, and am doing my nut on google trying to find it It's the drill hole spacing to the right that I want to identify. Many Thanks hg

These arrived today. The screw seetings for the tabs are not in the same positionins athe older M or H series (that's two types there), but could be easily adapted. Thought I'd give the heads up.

Hi, If anyone is interested, I found 10k digital drawbars available on a site called surplusgizmos.com for $2 each. These are very hard to find generally. The ones available on the doepfler site are 47k, and of no general use to the midibox. You only have to source the stop tabs. I have a batch of forty coming in, which cost me just under EUR82 including post and packaging. I will look at them when they arrive and see what stop tabs fit them, as I have most of the Hammond model stops lying around. The link is http://www.surplusgizmos.com/Potentiometer-w-Draw-Bar-Slide_p_750.html . ;)

I have a touchscreen. That boob link works!! All I do is put my toungue to the screen and I get to lick the screen clean ;D The only thing I hae to avoid is accidentally hitting the link I posted to start this all of, cos then....well...I will leave that to your apparent vivid imaginations!!

Check this out, free screen wipes- http://cache.valleywag.com/assets/resources/screenclean.swf

Yep. That will do it. That is more or less the same design as my machine. I will try and post some photos later. The difficulty you will have is gettng the exact measurements, but you will figure that out. Before you build, it is worth considering what handles you want to put on it- as some require cut-outs to be made in the wood. Also, what are you going to cover the finished product with? Not so. I meant to add that these are stuck together with alluminium extrusions, which is a method that can also be used with the plywood. Extrusions- http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Aluminium__l--en__p--project_27__b--6106S How they work (or a link to a flightcase- the penny will drop!!)- http://www.thomann.de/gb/thon_keyboard_case_i.htm Ans, I remembered the name of the plastic- Astroboard. There are stronger. Just google astroboard, get the type of plastic it is made of- I thimk it is polypropelyne- and research solid sheets of it. I lost the notebook I had with all of the details I researched last year. Astroboard- http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_l--en__p--project_2__f--9 Let me know what you think. For what it is worth, my intention is to build a new case out of astroboard and aluminium extrusion. I will take more photos of my machine later and post them. It might help you with issues you may have. One more great resource I found was http://www.blue-room.org.uk/ Here they discuss flightcase building in depth. HG

Oh yeah, only eight steps requires for Hammond stops...... ;D

Sorry, One more think I wanted ton point out, and that is the lightweught alternaives to plywood that I intend on using the next time round. One is shrink mousding. It is the precess by which Fender Rhodes built their cases for their pianos. Have a google. The other, and I think more interesting, is to use the plastic alternative to wood that is mentiones on many cabinet building sites, (but can't remember its name and my notes aren't to hand) held together by aluminium extrusions. Another stronger material is the plastic fascias used ibn building skyscrapers. I will dig out all my old notes and try and get the names. Also, before you start, I found http://www.adamhall.com/ to be a very good source for cabinet parts at a reasonable price. HG

Good idea. I reckon as long as the algrithm required to 'straighten out' the signal is not too complex, you are laughing. With regards to the plywood, use butt joints. I came across this link in the forums some time back, http://www.smctek.com/B2MIDIControllerProject.html I got in touch with the builder of the unit and he said that he used butt joints and 9mm ply, so I just followed his advice. BTW- the unit above was never competed and he offered it to me for $200. I delined, but said I would mention to anyone i knew bulding a similar project...Might be worth thinking about, but you will lose any touch sensitive action. As long as the quality of ply you use is good, there should be no problems. Have a look around for cabinet building sites, as I found them to be a superb resource- http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/ here is just one example. Just make sure to use loads and loads of glue.... Best of luck with the project. HG

Just had a look at the Drawbars for sale by Doepfer, and I would have to qusestion there suitability, being rated at 47k!! Have a look around the forums :-[

Here is one that I built- I have changed some things since that photo. The screen is no black, and there is a bit more brass trim. The whole thing works by housing a quad core PC and running VSTi's natyrally with native instruments B4. It is built in ply with walnut veneer, and a green leatherette/tolex cover. The reason I chose ply was because of the possibility to change the design schem, as I didn't know exactly what the specs would be. As you can see I chose to use a single fully weighted piano pulled from a fatar, so that it is not just limited to organ playing....basically I can play piano as piano etc. Is that roughly what you are up to? Oh yeah, the way I wired up the drawbars, which are a set of modded H series ones, is the best way to go, having done some serious research into all the possibilites of getting them to midi. Would be pleased to help you in any way, HG ;)

Got a message saying that I hadn't visited the forums in ages, and then realised- "God. It's true" So let me say this. There is life without midiboxing in it, however, I strongly suggest not trying it. I think we need to get some EU Government warning on the site like "Living Without Midibox In You Life Can Be Extremely Boring", or "Midibox Helps Maintain Sanity When Used As Part Of A Controlled Diet"...something like that. Apologies for being gone so long, but glad to be back. Hello All....... HG ;D

Thanks. Didi the job. Go to bed. :o

Hello all, long time no midi. Good to be back though. Anyway, straight to it.... Is there a way to get the current physical position of all pots, and then transmit them. I want to trigger this command from a midi message- CC127 on channel one- Git this far- void MPROC_NotifyReceivedEvnt(unsigned char evnt0, unsigned char evnt1, unsigned char evnt2) __wparam { if (evnt0 == 0xb0 && evnt1 == 0x7F) Okay. So that's the easy bit. Any help?? Cheers. Mark

Well, it just goes to show that actually reading the forum is of great help. I have been researching touch sensors for the last 4 months, totally unaware that it was already programmed in to the MidiBox. (Pause while I slap my forehead) The QT series of chips from Quantum have been bandied about before, but since their last discussions, the technology has come on in leaps and bounds. Have a look here http://www.qprox.com/products/qt1081.php I don't see why you couldn't use this and interface it with a DIN. OK. You will need to look at SOIC ti DIP IC for soldering purposes. But in effect it will provide you with a mechanical over a programmed solution. I will be looking into it more at some point, but I have other fish to fry..... ......now where is that mackerel? MP

Also, check out this http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=1792.0 and this http://ucapps.de/mios_c_send_range.html ....and this..... http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=4413.0 Hope it helps ;D

Thanks for your views. I will try out Abelton for live purposes. If you are PC based, and are happy enough to let the code be manipulated from there, have you tried routing from misi-ox. If, however, you want this to happen fromn the PIC, what code are you using? Assembly or C- that should be easy enough. I am useles at assembly, but at C I could have a crack at it. BTW- in cubase, you can set up a "midi effec"t to output (not sure which effect- Trancformer I think) to a different midi chanel- ie pass on information without modification, which can be triggered on or off. I do not know about Abelton, but try it out. MP

Slightly off topic... Abelton vs. Cubase, what are your opinions? MP

Eureka, Leaking cap between the VS and VD on the DOUT......... Yippeee, MP

Hey QBAS, Thanks for getting back. I would be surprised if it is the code, as that would not explain why it would work, then stop working. It has to be mechanical.... I first off want to get it to it's own power supply, and see if the problem is there. Other than that, I a will be stuck, as testing the DOUT will be a bit of a problem, as I have not stuffed any of the 220k resistors. I was hoping that someone may have had a similar experience with this before. Thanks for getting back. Mark.

Mmmm, got thinking. I forgot to mention that the core is powered from a psu, with only the voltage regulator removed. This ring a bell with anyone? :-\

Superdavies, Here are mods to a set of H series (a 112 to be exact) that I got off of ebay. I then built the case from plywood, inspired by another keyboard I saw on this forum about a year back. I contacted him, and gave me some tips. I too wanted a hammond on the road, as I gig four to five times a week, and need that extra ooomph to keep it that way. The whole keyboard is based on a PC. I coverd the outer case in green leatherette, and the trims in walnut veneer, which still have a few coats to go. It is about 90 percent complete. In its development i did a lot of work with M3 drawbars and would be more than happy to share my experiences with you. I am now full steam in getting it finished, so I will do a full biog on completion- bare with me. So- the keyboard...... ....yes, I even veneered the monitor for that authentic fell, and installed a touchscreen panel. No fiddling around with a mouse any more..... Drawbars on the left run by scan matrix........ .....and a mod job where I installed slide pots to those on the right..... It is also my intention to get a retrofitting section in the wiki started, and hope to begin that this year. Please fell free to ask any questions. Mark

OK folks. On the last bend in the road. I have one problem that I need help with though. Here is a pic thus far Thanks to QBAS, I have been able to run the matrix that runs the first sets of drawbars (on the left). However, something strange is occuring. Sometimes they work, and sometimes they dont. First off, ill explain the construction. The nine bus bars that run over the drawbars are connected to the DIN, and at the rear, the eighteen stops are connected to the DOUT. A diode is placed at the rear before the connection with the cothode toward the DOUT module. When it works, great. Each drawbar sends an individual controller signal to the PC, with a degree of nine different values, represent of the bus bar that it is in contact with, with values rnging from 0 (stop 0) to 127 (stop 9). The problem is ,and for no reason that I can see or think through, it goes wrong all of a sudden, and puliing any single drawbar, will send the controller signals for each of the other drawbars dependant on its value- ie. if one drawbar is moved and it is at stop 2, they all move to stop two. Basically, what i am trying to say is that all the drawbars on screen move together. And also, when this happens, the lowest value, 0, does not work. I am truly despesrate to get my leg over, but have vowed not to copulate till this project is done!!!! Help :P