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nym

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. i have the sensor detail all worked out using CUI sensors - they're particularly nice because tehy have domed surfaces. they're shipping me samples of 2 types right now. using FSRs would drive the cost of this whole operation up probably 150 USD per unit. i'm ordering up some liquid silicon soon. ready to make this thing work again.
  2. great. i'm probably gonna go for some stuff i found that's got good tear resistability, 28A shore hardness. i'm also gonna make the pads themselves thicker - forat and others did that for the 3000 back in the day and people really liked it. modnar, did you move from the 1k because of the pad issues? i'd love to get you back on the team
  3. oh sorry, i didn't think other people were necessarily into the mpc thing here at midibox, i tended to think it was more midibox specific and while i'm totally into the whole mb project and plan on someday starting it myself for a custom made controller, i didn't think yall would be interested in some of this stuff. first - http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/%7Empc1000/ this guy coded an operating system for the mpc1000 that knocks the PANTS off the existing one. it gives it all of the features of the much more overpriced mpc2500. it also strips it of several really terrible saving bugs. it also knocks off an amp envelope bug, an auto attack bug too. finally, it gives it features not seen ever before in other sampling drum machines - such as control of swing and shift timing using slide potentiometers (and hopefully, someday, distance sensors!) anyway, i started callin this fellow JJ (japanese jenius) because his site gives no name, no identification other than MPC1000. fairly monolithic, so the nickname jj was given. now, if you search mpc1000 and jj you see hundreds of links in a bunch of different languages. he also put PONG on the mpc1000...haha using a distance sensor would let me record slider data (tune, filter, attack, decay, tempo, swing, shift time, sample start, sample end) or midi control changes using my mpc with my face, arms, or any appendage that i can spare while playing drums with both hands. is there anything else i should clarify?
  4. yo thanks for clearing some of this up. first - what i was getting from japan was information by someone who knows his stuff regarding this 1000. 2nd - i guess i thought this thing was resistive because another sensor i looked at was resistive. 3rd - the whole continuous thing could definitely throw a pin in the gears. i've searched about the sharps here and between that and you post i've realized that it'd be far easier to attempt to do this using a resistive sensor instead of the sharp. this is a project ill think about doing in the future after i finish modding these pads. lot to do, lot to do thanks michael
  5. new product as in velostat replacing AND mold building for the rubber!!! i've figured out how to do this soooo much more simply found these resistive sensors w/ long life (as long as fsrs) which function the exact same way using this shtuff from japan called inastomer. and get this - remember how much trouble i was having with the mold? these things solve all my problems by BEING ROUNDED THEMSELVES. they actually come with a rounded rubber padlike trigger overtop of the inastomer/active area. so now i'll be putting another layer of rubber (the pad) overtop the domed rubber (the sensor) overtop the metal frame. i'll just be removing the original akai sensors altogether for the "delux" package the akai active area made for all kinds of performance problems and longterm durability issues. this new scheme takes a lot of the load off the damn mold making too, now the mold is much easier to make. my dad's got a workshop, i'm 100% capable of building a mold myself in his basement with the materials he has there. i can even get fancy and do lettering/custom images for people... including graphics or words think about it - pads with hieroglyphics on em...an eyeball, a marijuana leaf, anything all these hip hop thugnerds love. daaaamn, folks - especially modnar so excited about this i'm nearly incontinent as for mr eventoff, it may be that i didn't need to make the contact, but i would love to talk to him anyway to share what i've done and to offer my thanks for his contribution to the world of electronic instruments. i'll definitely post what he has to say. peace guys nym
  6. ok! so i'm under way finally with this drum mold. it's 2:20 right now san francisco time and i can't sleep because ideas are flying through my head. i'm getting so excited i can barely function, all i ever talk about anymore is sensors, resistivity, rubber, and midi. so my question is this - what kind of rubber would you recommend for molded drum pads? what shore hardness? anyone got any store preferrably in the US for liquid rubber that would be good? or just some specs/type of rubber to look for? looking for something thatll hold up, not get compressed over time and use, and which will cure nicely. soft is good. i'm thinking maybe even softer than the original mpc drum pads, but i'd like to get some voices on this one from yall thanks again for your help the nymod is under way. between the pad Solution and the Eyepatch (see design) the little mpc is going to explode, and not in the bad way.
  7. ok what's up been working on personalizing my mpc1000. this machine is like a fat man in a skinny man's body - the skinny man's skin hurts really bad w/ all the bottled up jellyrolls. essentially, the thing was built not to last, but one bit at a time, i'm fixing these problems. my question is twofold. first, the title question. i'd like to replace one of the slide pots on the left with one of these: http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1060.html this is an infared distance sensor. essentially it's like the dbeam on an sp808. both sensors, the pot and the infared, are resistive, that is they output different voltages given their own respective environments - slider placement or hand placement. i'd like to be able to control, record, and modulate qlink data using a sharp distance sensor rather than qlink 1, which is the top slide pot. this would still let me control stuff w/ a pot (qlink 2) but also have the more dramatic looking and natural feeling sweep of the hand. the infared reads from 4 to 11.5 cm. that's a convenient, comfortable distance. i will hopefully put it into a place where it could be triggered by my head - as i play my machine, i could lean in and modulate a filter sweep with it. so a couple questions. first, since both are resistive sensors, is it reasonable to think i could simply swap em out? this is a really preliminary question since i know i havent given you the specs on the qlink - i'm working on getting that from a source in japan - but what do i need to know in order to match up the sensors so i can swap em? has anyone had any experience with these infareds before? i played with the one on the sp808 and while some people found that it was clumsy, i was able to get reproduceable and enjoyable effects by using it. it was one thing to do it in realtime, but to be able to record one's smooth hand movement makes my mouth water. 2nd question - much more simple. all of the buttons you see on the left and right are simple switches. they all make a clicking sound when pressed upon. this is not the problem - the issue is repeatability. after 2 years, a couple of these buttons are going bad. akai repairs sell these buttons for like 8 bucks a pop. i think i could do better. what are some switches that could work and are known to last a long time? 2nd, are there switches that one doesn't need to necessarily PUSH in order to triggeR? i could live with a push switch ala the ones that are already on there, but only if they had a long lifespan. ideally, however, i'd like to be able to simply brush my hand against the mpc button and with a light touch trigger the button. however, lifespan of the button beats the light press thing. anyone got good buttons to suggest? thanks for your help and support. peace nym
  8. i've made significant ground on my own front as well. soon to be trying 2 new products which might make things easier i actually got in touch with Frank Eventoff, guy who invented the Interlink FSR and coordinated their use w/ roger linn in the original mpcs. very nice guy, i actually called him at home and got his wife, who was kind enough to give my cell number to him. we had a pleasant chat, dude knows his stuff. i'd love to work for him someday.
  9. measurements (tell me if more are needed) 1 pad (the visible surface, not the factory lip: 22 mm tall by 30 wide. individual sensor (copper active area): 13 by 13 mm sensor bank: 150 mm by 118 mm individual sensor rectangle: 37 mm wide, 29.5 mm tall. space between sensor board and faceplate: just over 2 mm
  10. as for the no pressure, in my design i have it resting against the active area at all times, and it doesn't trigger until you give it a little pressure - and i'm talking about the SLIGHTEST pressure, like brushing it gives you a contact. this could potentially give a problem, if your design isn't tight enough that there is a "bounce" to it and that causes tiny pressure on the velostat. however, if it's secure, then there's nothing to worry about and you have yourself some REALLY sensitive pads. i'm dealing with copper coil active areas that require a material to make the connection overtop between the 2 coils. the velostat suits that purpose. (mpc1000). the sampler records notes in (who woulda guessed) midi, from 1-127. pressing down the pad in the slightest way gives a contact of 1-10. an appropriately hard hit gives 127. it's perfect for pad applications, not to mention other cool things haha like preventing alien abduction...
  11. will do. sorry for the delay. i'll try to get it out before the 6th, when i'll be shippin out to san francisco.
  12. modnar that composition looks REALLY good, but according to frontpanel it'd cost me close to 150...i'd be willing to make that kind of money appear but it might take a while. i will get you measurements, got to run and get myself a measuring tape that doesn't measure in ass backwards notation checkin out sparkfun right now. i remember seeing a monome video and waking up with foamed saliva around my mouth, with one leg twisted underneath my body. goddamn pleasure seizures.
  13. yo so here i am now. this is a trial run of using 2 faceplates like you said. imagine them on top of one another. one goes over 2, 2 provides the dome. they're the same size of course, just different zoomed screenshots
  14. i'd scoff if it was 20 usd, this stuff requires no shipping considerations whatsoever
  15. and clear copper, so you could see the -- nah, i've taken this too far.
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