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Jason Milstead

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About Jason Milstead

  • Birthday November 14

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lexington, Kentucky - USA

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  1. For everything that there're doing, the price point seems more than reasonable. I'm game if you can get enough people on board. I can also see some nice wood or aluminum end caps on this in the future...
  2. How's this one? $10 + Shipping is cool if you're still looking. I tested the keys before I sadly dismantled the machine, so everything should be fine. PM me if you're still interested. Oh, and I'm in Lexington, KY, so shipping should be pretty fast.
  3. done with the sammichSID base pcb!

  4. I found myself in a similar situation when I finished my MB6582 about a year ago. The C64 black brick I was using wasn't powerful enough to run the entire unit. It was outright overheating and failing after about an hour's worth of play. Fortunately, I had an old (yet easy to take apart) C128 PSU laying around. I gorilla-fisted the C64 PSU with a rather large screwdriver, hacked off the black cord and mated that to the appropriate connections inside the C128 one. Afterward, I checked for continuity between the pinouts and the newly Frankensteined PSU. Then I used my trusty multimeter to check for the correct voltages per each pin. Now I have a C128 PSU with the typical C64 round connector on the business end. No more blackouts or overheating has occurred! As a disclaimer, I am not an electrical engineer, so I'm not sure what (if any) adverse effects this could have on your MB6582 unit (Would anyone else more experienced know?). Mine works just fine but, YMMV... Here are some links to the pin arrangements of the various power supplies if you feel so inclined to try this yourself: http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Commodore_C64_Power_Supply http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Commodore_C128_Power_Supply I agree with the previous post in that the source of your hum might not be so much your power supply but what your power supply is connected to. You might be creating some kind of grounding loop either through faulty soldering on the MB6582 board itself or through your connection to your audio amplification rig (whatever you use to hear those sweet, sweet SID sounds). Try plugging in some headphones to the MB6582. If you still hear it, it's more than likely coming from inside. So, if you do hack apart an otherwise usable C128 PSU, and you still hear the hum with the headphones, than you'll know that the source is somewhere on the board itself. Good luck! -Jason
  5. A nicely packed box of LCD goodness was waiting for me when I got home today. :) Thanks, fussylizard!
  6. fussylizard 2 strophlex 4 nsunier ~10 rosch 4 ssp 2 (maybe 4) gtxdude 2 matoz 4 lucem 6 enth 3 flemming 1 kyo 4 wilba 6 dstamand 1 olga42 5 latigid on 2 kokiPsiho 2 Tamiflu 2 audioguru42 4 ---------------------- ~64 4 would do me very nicely... ;)
  7. Got the knobs in the mail today! Thanks for hard work involved in putting together this bulk order. My midiboxes will be happy now!
  8. Got the chips in the mail on Friday. You rock, Wilba! thx
  9. Got the package in the mail yesterday! They feel awesome. Thanks! :)
  10. It's the same Rust-Oleum's "Key Lime" spray paint. On and off, it took me about a week to do. I just sprayed the entire knob solid green, waited for it to dry (about a day), then cut and scraped the excess off the black rubber part. Sounds difficult, but it was just tedious. Once cut, the paint pretty much flaked off of the rubber with the pressure of a fingernail, yet stuck to the red plastic. As for this pics, I used a tripod. ;)
  11. Yes, you may! The green paint is Rust-Oleum's "Key Lime" spray paint. I wanted a color that matched the wavelength of the LEDs and LCD and the original red of the Waldorf knobs, while beautiful in their own right, would not do. So, after some experimenting, I found that this particular spray paint flakes very easily from the black rubber of the knob, yet holds pretty tight to the red (I'm assuming ABS) plastic. So, with an X-Acto knife and some patience, I got a fairly good approximation of what I wanted. I also masked the white strips of the front panel with the same paint to match the knobs. When you glance at it sideways from 3 feet, you can't tell. But when you look at it close up (as in the photos), yeah, it's hand done. Not professional, but it's mine and it still sounds sweet! :D I hope to make another MB-6582-esque synth in the next couple of months. Red lights, silver panel, wooden bookends. Now if I could just find the right kind of knobs...
  12. I actually finished this one to about 99% 3 months ago and just now had the time to complete this unit. One of the major problems I had was with the original C64 power supply I was using. I since got a hold of a C128 one and just switched out the output power cords. Why Commodore ever decided to use those d@mmed black bricks of gray resin is beyond my imaginative powers! Anywho, besides frying the first LCD I plugged in (I did something stupid and connected pin 1 of the LCD to pin 1 on the PCB, then pin 2 to pin 2 and so on. The sizzling smoke told me to go back to the wiki and read some more!) the thing booted up without a hitch. This is actually the second project I've ever soldered (the first one being a x0xb0x (I figured I'd practice my skillz on that than ruin the MB-6582!)). All I did was read the forums and the wiki. Now I'm rockin' it 1989 style! Thanks to all the hard work you guys have put into actualizing this monster of a synth. Much respect to Wilba, TK and Smash. Without your global efforts, this would not have happened! IMG_0013.JPG IMG_0014.JPG IMG_0017.JPG IMG_0013.JPG IMG_0014.JPG IMG_0017.JPG
  13. Got 'em today! Red on Black... too sexy...
  14. I'm in for a kit w/ PICS... keepin' it simple... ;D
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