lief138

Thank you for clarifying TK! The directions say J19 is supposed to have 1K resistor array. Is this still accurate or should I instead us a 220 Ohm as specified here. Thanks again, Lief

After a long delay I am finally getting around to build SeqV4. I have core32 from SmashTV and just started reviewing the instructions for building the core here http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_core_stm32.html I am good until this section Serial ports consist of: 2x5 DIL headers J8/9, J16 and J19 Pull-Up resistors arrays R30, R32 (4*1k arrays) and R31 (4*220 Ohm array) - note that they only have to be stuffed in special cases (see below) 3.3V/5V selection jumpers J24, J25, J26 Pull-Up resistors are only required if a 5V supplied module is connected to a serial port. This is mostly the case for J8/J9, where the SRIO chain is connected by default. It's not required for a SD Card, which is supplied at 3.3V and usually connected to J16. I assume since this is for the SEQ with the SD card I would just leave the arrays off. Also I cannot seem to determine what the Jumper selection would be as I find this in the guide. What is expected here? J24/J25/J26 3 5V/3.3V supply options for serial ports TODO Next instruction For J8/J9 (R31) it is recommended to use 220 Ohm resistors, especially if many DIN/DOUT modules are connected. For other ports 4*1k arrays are sufficient and recommended as long as the 5V option is used (again: leave out the array if 3.3V option is used!). If you are planning to use the core module for different applications, you can use SIP socket strips for the 3 resistor arrays, so that you are able to remove/replace them whenever required. The 5 pins of the arrays can be extended with cutted resistor legs (yeah - here we need them again) TODO: provide table with all the options Again, I understand that these arrays are not installed and I could just skip this section Instruction about power Finally add the 7805 based voltage regulation unit if the core shouldn't be supplied via USB, but by an external PSU or transformer: 2200 uF cap C8, 330 nF cap C9 47 uF cap C10, 100 nF cap C11 7805 voltage regulator IC6 Bridge Rectifier X1 AC or DC input J1 5V input or output J2 Note that USB Power Jumper J17 has to be removed when the core is supplied externally! I plan to have an external power but not just yet. If a populate these parts but just leave J17 in place for now will it still work? I guess I could just remove the jumper when I am ready for external power. I'm trying to not screw this up. Please let me know. Thanks, Lief

Whats wrong with yours? I fixed two of these things and managed to add too many mods to mine. Right now if I enable too many of the mods it starts clicking 'to the beat'. My smart friend says its the PS resetting because I am asking for too much juice. I just checked out the FatMan Plus. The case looks nice and all but I have too many extras to fit in there. I would say just use the panel that comes with the case and drill those holes out and use the sticker method. It’s not like any of the pots are connected to the PCB. Good luck. (you seen this one?) Lief

perhaps this could be useful to someone 16 BUTTON X/Y KEYPAD

I got on the yahoo group abut a year ago an managed to get in touch with the dude. It seemed like he wanted to get a bulk order going but did not have alot of people interested. I definately looks like a fun project!

What about the 1bit groove box? http://web.media.mit.edu/~nvawter/projects/1bit/

Sorry Wilba I was thinking about vcfools as he used the clear plastic panel and did not cut the window holes at all. I was really just thinking out using the same solution as you did on the 6582 and just glue on a piece of plastic on the back side of the panel and living with the slight inperfection.

About the panels Im looking at the fpd files and see the area around the lcds on the back side is ?milled? down abit. I understand that this is for the windows to sit in and not so much for the lcd to fit through and be flush. Is this correct? Also I see the plastic panel has no windows at all so I assume that this work is not actually needed at all. Could someone explain this to me in easy small words so I can understand. I am working with a local place to get the panel made and we are looking for options to make it cheaper. Thanks, Lief

Heck, Im almost as broke as can be but I slapped down a couple of bux to the cause.. That was the payapl webhosting link and not the Wilba beer link right *whack*

I just got done looking at your pics and all I can say is pic 18 is brilliant. Thats one way to keep it clean!

long live the new flesh

the big lebowski

Well I do know based on what has been said here that at least some people are planning on making their own case/panels and not waiting for Doug or Wilba. I am just trying to get a feel for what others had in mind. I do agree though that Wilba or Dougs case designs will be top notch. Thanks

OK so here comes the next daftness... Im looking at both the 17 and 19" versions. In looking at the fpd file and reading the costruction comments things mostly make sense. It would seem that the 19" version would be easy enough to attach to whatever, but I am even more confused now about the 17" version and how it will be help to the case. Perhaps a gaint magnet or duct tape :) So is everyone planning on gettnig the fpd panels made from the shop or is there any plans in the works to get a bulk deal going? I dont really like the idea of 175 for the panel if I can help it.

OK daft question of the day.... I am looking at the panel and not knowing how it would be connected to a case or rack. I am assuming that since there are no holes Wilba was planning the ol' JB weld trick. I am just trying to get an idea from people if anyone is planing something different? Thanks