kid versus chemical

I'm 99.999% sure the problem is solved. The trace connecting the shift register IC1 (pin 9 or 10, I forget which) to the serial input for the PIC was very slightly lifted by the solder pad. Made a jumper and got controls to respond,, I'm just waiting for a replacement shift register to replace the one with the broken pin, then I can test it 100%. Nice. Just thought I would share, for archive purposes.

I followed every bit of advice he's given me to the best of my ability, and I'm very appreciative for every bit of it. I don't think he's been grumpy with me, some of his comment actually made me giggle a bit. I think I'm getting close to fixing it, I'm just waiting for new shift registers in the mail. Wilba cheered me up with a helpful email, I really appreciate people taking the time to give me help. Now I'm even getting philosophical advice, as opposed to technical, so I'm that much more equipped to face life's challenges. ; ). Just kidding with you taxi man, btw

I checked that few times, no dice. I tried to reseat the chips in the sockets and ended up breaking a pin of 1 of the shift registers. I ordered another set (both types), perhaps they are the problem to begin with? It's a long shot, I know, but I can't think of anything else other than the PIC chip.

I redid every single voltage test and all continuity test's, everything checks out fine. Also, rechecked all the polarized components. But still no reaction from any of the controls. How is that possible? Does that mean a chip is bad or something? Can anyone suggest some different test's to try other than the voltage and continuity test's listed in the build guide? Is there any significance to the fact that none of the controls work, instead of just certain controls? I'm sort of ready to give up, I can't think of anything else to try..... -Matt

Yes, the dot is in the correct place, I just checked again to be sure. This is pretty devastating...

Forgot to mention in the last post that yes I did upload the correct firmware, the sammichFM version.

I thought for sure it would be a component placement issue in relation to the rework I had to do, thats why I focused on that. My camera is not so good, also my photography skills are seriously lacking. Here is some pics, I did the best I could, if you want to take more pictures in certain area's in certain ways please let me know. Really, just tell me what area you want a pic of. Any shiny sections in the pics are from flux, I was rehitting solder joints.

I made a jumper wire going from pin 8 to ground, via 1 of the Vs pins on the unused J2 connections. I have continuity to ground from pin 8 now. As far as IC2 pin 16, (the lifted pad) I made a jumper from pin 16 to the correct pin on RN4, and then I bridged pin 16 together with C2 (the pin on the 5v rail) and the jumper wire. I did it that way instead of using 2 wires because they are so close together. The pad on the top part of the board for pin 16 seems fine, I tested continuity with RN3 and C2. I still have the exact same problem. I don't think it's a bad solder joint, I rechecked many times. Perhaps the software didn't load correctly? Something else entirely? Any idea's would be most appreciated. Thanks, Matt

Hi. I completed my sammichFM tonigh, or so I thoughtt. I uploaded the firmware, got the rhodes sound, everything appeared to be ok, but none of the controls work. Three LED's are lit (the top left 2, and on the bottom row second from the left). No response from any buttons or the encoder or any of the other LED's. FWIW, to the best of my knowledge all the voltage and continuity tests came up fine. Now, some background, or what I think the problem could be. When i was building the control board, some solder fell from the iron while tacking and got in the hole for pin 16 on IC2. Whilst removing said solder I accidently lifted the solder pad. Also before I noticed the solder in the hole, I pushed the socket in and broke of the end of the socket pin. So, here is where things get dicey. First off, I did not get rid of the socket (so, so dumb). I just flipped it over, becuase it looked like pin 8 had no traces going to or from it and was unused (though I never checked any schematic). For the record, the chip is orientated correctly, I just followed the marker on the board and ignored the reverse socket. Second, I follow the trace from pin 16 of IC2 and it appeared to just run to a resistor network RN4 I believe. So I soldered a jumper from pin 16 on the socket to the correct pin on the resistor network. I tested continuity, it checked out ok. So, any idea's on what's up? Was it my butchery, or something else? Any help would be most graciously appreciated. Thanks. Matt

Just wanted to say that I got my OPL3 chipsets, thanks dude, you rock. They arrived on 5/12, and I'm in the US (New York), in case anyone was wondering. I'm havent been able to start mine yet becuase I cant figure out a good power supply solution, even after reading all the PSU related posts and the wiki I'm still confused... Maybe someone can point me to a good commercial solution, that can power the OPL3 board and the core (I'm just building a core+opl3 basic midi-only basic version, no panel for now) Sorry to go off topic...I can do a test of the chips when I figure out what to do for a PSU is what I was driving at....I actually tried to do a seperate post about it but something must have went wrong becuase it never showed up on the board... -Matt