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julianf

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Everything posted by julianf

  1. ps. Even without locking into the ends of the case using the parts you are looking for a name of (tabs/protrusions/rails?) the panel should still be held by the top and bottom extrusions, shouldnt it? I will have to look again, but im sure the panels hold on all four edges - two fit with the extrusion, and two with the end plates. But, again, either way, nothing falls off - really, dont worry! : )
  2. Yep, the panels are fine. Shake the case as much as you like - nothing will fall off : ) The two holes - they were from earlier builds. The reason ive still cut them was to make the panel backward compatible, but i guess its probably time to stop now.
  3. Is this what you were asking about the rear panel? Im still not 100% sure that i understand! : ) I have a case from one of the earlier group-buys - i took measurements from the actual case itself, rather than the datasheets, and cut both the top and the rear panels to fit the case. Indeed, i cut a test panel, and then made further adjustments of fractions of a millimeter, so that, not only did the panel fit, it fits perfectly! : ) Assuming the cases from this group-buy are of exactly the same dimensions as the ones from the last group buy (im sure they will be - they will be cut from the same code, im sure!) then any panels that i cut for them will, again, fit perfectly. Again, i am not 100% sure i understand, but, even if i do not understand, i can assure you that there will be no falling off the case! : ) (in short - there is nothing to worry about ; )
  4. In my personal opinion, i think counter sunk often look much worse. They are ok if you have the screw in your hand, and you gently take out more and more metal, and keep checking as you go, but, for any other job, through panel work, the screw either sits proud, or the hole is a fraction too large, and you get that silver 'halo' around the screw head. Of course, things should be perfect, and i know there are DIN specs etc., but, in reality, ive seen so many countersunk screws with the 'halo' around them, and, to me, it looks like an error. I think the only perfect ones ive seen are ones done by hand, with the screw present to match when making the hole. Again, it is only my opinion. For my own works, i generally always go for the stainless steel allen cap bolts. I like the look of them! : )
  5. Here are two photos to illustrate the above - First, a panel with the rear milled for the screen, and also recesses for hex-spacers (wilba originally specified threaded blinds) - Again, this is the *rear* of the panel. Next is a photo of a panel with no milling on the rear. The pcb is mounted with bolts from the front of the panel. This is a much stronger, simpler, cheaper way of producing the panel, but it does mean that you see the bolt heads (in this case, A2 stainless allen cap heads) - For my own, personal, build (where machine time is not really a consideration!) i will use the latter mounting, as i think it is better, but, again, not everyone likes to see the bolt heads.
  6. Here is a screen grab of the existing file - The changes from Wilba's original are limited to - Small adjustments in dimensions to fit the Heidenreich a little more accurately The addition of the extra DIN port The change of the power cut-outs to match more commonly available parts (the round switch is an SCI part, and the jack could be pretty much anything) I am not familiar with the LPC17 core - if further changes are required, then the files will be edited to accommodate.
  7. I am sorry - i missed that. I would like to keep the case in stock (as i say, people have asked over it in the past) but there is always more to spend money on than keeping slow moving stock. I would be very happy to make up any and all short-fall on the cases (i will keep them in stock for people at a later date), if it is possible for me to generate the required revenue from machining matching panels. I would be very happy to spend the revenue from any sales (even as 1-off units) on any of your short-fall and keep them in stock for future buyers. Even if i make no sales, i would still like some cases for stock, as above, however, then i have to redirect money especially to the purchase, which is always more difficult - so i would try and buy either way, but one way is much easier for me than the other.
  8. I have just re-read your initial post again - I would suggest waiting to hear first about the enclosures, before going too far on other paths. I mailed Heidenreich some time back, asking for a quote on 1-off, and received no reply. This could have been due to any number of reasons, but, as this is the essential part, it may be wise to confirm its availability? I will post a screen grab of the rear panel i most often cut for people. It is the same as Wilba's but with the power switch changed to an SCI item (due to people finding the original hard to obtain) and the addition of one extra MIDI port (with the same spacing as the other ports). The rear panel is easy enough to customise, but most people in the past seem to be happy with this configuration. This does, however, not simplify the 3d alignment - as per Altitude's comments above.
  9. are you planning on using the extrusion for the left and right sides, or for the front and back? either would be possible. it would seem more 'natural' to use the extrusion for the front and rear edge, and then make wooden (or metal) ends (for the right and left) but that would mean machining the profile itself for the i/o at the rear. if you used the extrusion for the right and left, then it would be much simpler to cut the front and rear, and cut the i/o into the rear as per normal. Im just not sure it would look as classy as with the wooden sides.
  10. My 1-off price on front panels for the Heidenreich is GBP 80 (which comes to 100 euro) My 1-off price for the rear panels is GBP 35 Im very pleased to see someone organizing a group buy for the cases - indeed, i may be a customer for a few myself, as people ask me about them often, but both in my own interests, and those of potential purchasers of panels, i have to comment as above. I hope my post does not offend. I would wish any group buy luck, but, again, the group buy pricing on the panels is *way* above what i charge for even a single unit.
  11. The LXR is surprising nice. Although i built the electronics ages ago, ive only just started using it, now that its in a box. Im surprised by the range of sound, from smooth TR style hits, right through to FM ringing, to reduced sample rate crunches. And i have not even got into messing with the sample side of it yet. I think its a nice piece of work, (who's designer is still on the ball with the firmware). I reckon the minimum i can probably ask the wood place for is 5-off. The do custom furniture all the time, but, although all it is is a simple box, i think the price will just be too high on a single unit. I guess if there is even another couple of people interested, ill buy 5-off and keep 2 for stock. In hindsight, this thread probably should be in group buys? If a mod thinks similar, could it be moved?
  12. I recently made a case for my own LXR drum machine (sonic potions) and two things have come to mind - a) people often ask me if i sell the 17" desktop enclosure for the panels i cut (i dont), and b) a case like the one below is simple enough to be adapted very easily Here's some photos of the case i made for the LXR - (screw holes in that last shot should have screws in them!) Here are my comments about the case - Im not set up for woodwork here - whilst i can make the odd thing, i dont have the tooling for multiple copies, but, if there was interest, the place that i got the wood from would make up the cases at a price, and i could cut the top and rear panels. So this is just a feeler. The costing would (i hope obviously) be multiples of a lazer cut plastic case - hand made with ancient hardwoods will never be comparable with plastics, but im guessing there may be some interest in quality? So...? note: i was not sure if this should be in bulk orders or the seq section?
  13. I see your issue now. Im not sure how possible its going to be with wood. With metal - Imagine a U section, but with the tops of the U lipped over, so you get this kind of shape - [_] ...but all out of one bit of metal. Say 0.8mm mild steel. That's almost a diy bending job. You could then 'block' the ends with chunks of wood.
  14. Can you take the whole lot up from the base of the case? So, from bottom to top, it would be - bolt head on wooden base, with thread pointing up toward the inside of the case wooden base threaded spacers, with the bolt from the bottom screwed into them - these would need to be long enough to take another bolt from the other side also then the pcb then a non-threaded spacer then the top panel then a nice looking bolt, that goes down, through the panel, through the non-threadeed spacer, through the pcb, and into the same threadded spacer as the bolt from the base comes into Assuming your case edges were nice and rigid, and the case itself was not very weighty, would this be sufficient?
  15. Brian, What issues are you having, exactly? The hole spacing on the panel is according to Wilba's original files, and will be the same as any other panel cut with the same files - are you using his pcb layout, or another? Julian
  16. The above transaction was concluded ages ago, but, just to be clear to the casual reader - the delay was *prior* to me taking any payment. For me, that's quite an important detail, which could be missed! : ) Of course, any delay is tedious, but delays after payment is made are, in my mind, another issue entirely. I should also give thanks to Highcooley for his purchase, even in spite of the quiet period! : )
  17. Im really not trying to pick holes in your sale, but havn't the front panels been recessed and engraved on the same side?
  18. Ill post on some other forums when i get arround to it, but i may as well start somwhere! Ive cut a number of custom panels for people here. Ive wanted an online shop thing for some time, but i never get arround to sorting it out. I would like someone who knows what theyre doing to put me together a woocommerce shop, with automated stock etc. in exchange for metal work. BUT - For better or worse, i like the look of my existing website. I know i can get an off-the-shelf paypal cart, but i dont want this - i want to keep the look of what i have, but have it converted to wordpress with woocommerce. I do *not* want somthig that just looks like every other corporate wordpress site. I figure someone here may have the smarts on this, and be in need of somthing i have the skills with - trade skills, rather than money? : ) If youre keen, drop me a pm, would you? Thank you, Julian
  19. Yes, sorry - my mistake! For what its worth, i purchased a sheet metal former a while back, but i need to rebuild (yep, pour concrete and stuff) the workshop before i get arround to that kind of caper : /
  20. There were group buys for the aluminium desktop case, and, somwhere in the posts, the spec for the case is listed - you could go to the manufacturer for a 1-off, or, possibly, even see if there was interest in another uk group buy? As for the top panel, im probably your cheapest metal option?
  21. The case frame, base, and ends are from one of the group-buys that ran here. It was supplied by www.heidenreich.de As i say, the one above was from a group buy, but im sure they can be purchased individually also. The top and rear plates were cut here. They are cut from Wilba's files, but with some alterations, most notably, adjustments so as the panels fit the case tighter / firmer. The panels in the photo are also 1.5mm, which means that they fit into the case rails themselves, rather than needing (expensive) profiling. The entire set (front and rear) then works out cheaper than just the original top panel, and also creates a stronger build.
  22. Some pretty photos of the desktop case - Files have been edited to give better fit etc. The power switch on the rear has also been changed to an SCI part, which people tell me is easier to get hold of? (SCI is a large brand, and should be available world-wide) One extra output port is added to the rear panel.
  23. I have a bunch of panels to make next week, and, due to the way the runs are arranged, i have some irritating gaps. Normally i just fill these with 'stock' panels, but i thought id try something different and see what becomes of it? : ) So... Gaps available - 3-off 19" x 1u rack panel size 3-off 5u x 1u MOTM / Oakley size All 3.0mm natural anodised. Terms - You can have whatever you want on these (within my capabilities : ) I will charge exactly 50% of whatever FPD quotes you on the panel (for EU customers, this will be the inc vat, ex delivery, price) Your (final) files must be with me by Monday morning (13th) and you must be good to make payment at around the same time (assuming your works are assigned a place) Notes - In the case of higher demand (than expected!) I'm afraid ill go for the higher value submissions. This isn't entirely selfish - if i can save someone a whole load of cash, against saving someone else only a bit, it seems 'just' so give the most benefit. Postage from me is always at cost price only. I ship world wide. I take bank payments in GBP or Euro (both free), cards with Google Checkout (standard surcharges) and Paypal (but *only* if its marked as a 'personal' payment with all fees pre-paid) Lead time will be about a week. Due to life getting in the way, i have not been overly active on the forums recently, but, if you want reminding of what i get up to, the following link should show you - http://www.thebeast.co.uk/cnc/index.html Thank you, Julian The Beast UK Ltd www.thebeast.co.uk
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