Jump to content

frailn

Members
  • Posts

    297
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by frailn

  1. I love the case mods on this person's website. Great ideas! Especially the mod with the wood end-cheeks on a C-64 case. Brilliant! :thumbsup:
  2. I'm calling it quits for this weekend. Everything was going fine with testing Slave CORE 3, then suddenly, the LCD went double-bar on me. I stopped working on CORE 3, and went back to do SID test tone on CORE's 1 and 2, and now they are dead. Me thinks there is a bigger problem going on, farther back near the power supply. Now I have 2 out of five PIC's that display the double-bar syndrome. One of them does so in CORE's 1 and 3, when I swap them. SO...I'm stopping for a few days and come back with a fresh approach.
  3. UPDATE on Troubleshooting the first Slave Core/SID section. (CORE_2). Original issue: U2_SID2 Failure: Test Tone App. No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test. As noted in my last post, was able to visually verify all components were correctly installed and resoldered a few bad spots. Board inspection revealed a couple of spots where there might be shorts, and I cleaned them up. However, none of the trouble shooting fixed the original issue I decided the issue must be with the CORE PIC, itself. I pulled out a spare core - actually the first MIDIbox module I built a couple of years ago! I replaced Slave CORE PIC 1 with this old CORE and SHAZAM. Problem fixed. No more hot CORE PIC. No more black bars on LCD. I successfully uploaded latest version of MIOS and the Test tone app. Successfully tested both U2_SID2 and U1_SID2 with the test tone app. Now to use the CHANGE ID app and get this pic re-identified. One issue down, two to go! This is turning into a blog. Maybe I should use the ip.board blog function....
  4. Troubleshooting the first Slave Core/SID section. (CORE_2). Not quite there yet, but getting close. U2_SID2 Failure: Test Tone App. No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test. Trouble Shooting Steps: 1. Yes tone on PIN 27 -> U1_SID2 PIN 8. Audio Out on U2_SID2 eliminated as an issue. 2. Interconnections Test: Uploaded to core successfully, according to MIOS Studio. Still can't read LCD (black bars). 3. Noticed that PIC Is warm, other PICS are not warm. Pulled PIC. 4. CORE_2 Visual Part Check: R1_CORE2 - Brown/Black/Brown/Gold: 100 ohm Resistor - CHECK. Passes multimeter test. Solder joint looks messy. Resoldered. Retested. Passes test. R2_CORE2 - Brown/Black/Red/Gold: 1K ohm Resistor - CHECK. Passes multimeter test. Solder joint looks messy. Resoldered. Retested. Passes test. R12_CORE2 - Brown/Black/Red/Gold: 1K ohm Resistor - CHECK. No read on multimeter. Solder joint looks messy. Resoldered. Retested. Passes test. Multimeter displays proper data. R10_CORE2 - Brown/Black/Orange/Gold: 10K ohm Resistor - CHECK. Read on multimeter is spotty. Resoldered. Retested. Passes test. Spotty read is gone. Proper data displays. D1_CORE2 - 1N4148 - CHECK. Multimeter Test: Reads 0.744 one way. No read when poles are switched. Seems the diode is good with no short. Compared to diode in the working Master Core section. Both read the same. Passes test. C3_CORE4 - Monolithic Capacitor 100nF - CHECK. Not sure how to test. Don't think my multimeter can test capacitors. Anyone who can provide a tip or trick to test this part? R9_CORE2 - Brown/Black/Orange/Gold: 10K ohm Resistor - CHECK. No read on multimeter. Resoldered. Retested. Passes test. Multimeter reads now. Proper data displays. 6. Stopped to check voltages on CORE PIC IC Socket. IC1:MCLR(1) - IC1:Vss(12) = 5V IC1:Vdd(11) - IC1:Vss(12) = 5V IC1:Vdd(32) - IC1:Vss(31) = 0V IC2(8) - IC2:(5) = 0V Since Octocoupler is stuffed, not sure if the zero reads are normal or not. Will continue troubleshooting and report back.
  5. Finally got around to finishing my MB-6582 baseboard this weekend. Wife was gone ALL DAY, so finally got some man-cave time. Running into some issues, so I've been digging around the forum for testing and troubleshooting advice. I'm outlining my issues below, and will head off to bed. Tommorow, I will start checking the board for errors or issues. Here is what I have so far: 1. All capacitors are oriented properly. 2. I will check to ensure I have installed the correct resistors in the right places tomorrow. 3. Here are the symptoms: U1_CORE1 - GOOD, currently running MB6582 version of SID app with no issues U2_SID1 - GOOD U1_SID1 - GOOD U1_CORE2 - Two rows of black bars on LCD. When powered on, the following string is sent from the PIC to MIOS Studio: 00000004301268 ms | SysEx: F0 00 00 7E 40 01 01 F7 That's a good sign! Was able to upload MIOS v1_9g and Test Tone app without issue. Not sure if the black bars are worth worrying about. However, I did try another PIC (moved U1_CORE3 PIC over to U1_CORE2 socket) and there were no black bars. I could see the text just fine. Maybe I'll just order a new PIC. U2_SID2 - No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test - Yes tone on PIN 27 -> U1SID2 PIN 8 - No tone on PIN 8 -> J23_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor U1_SID2 - Yes tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 - No tone on PIN 27 -> U2_SID2 PIN 8 - Yes tone on PIN 8 -> J3_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor U1_CORE3: GOOD, currently running Test Tone app with no issues U2_SID3 - No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test - Yes tone on PIN 27 -> U1_SID2 PIN 8 - No tone on PIN 8 -> J23_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor U1_SID3 - No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test - Yes tone on PIN 27 -> U1_SID2 PIN 8 - No tone on PIN 27 -> U2_SID3 PIN 8 - Yes tone on PIN 8 -> J3_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor U1_CORE4: GOOD, currently running Test Tone app with no issues U2_SID4 - No tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 test - Yes tone on PIN 27 -> U1_SID2 PIN 8 - No tone on PIN 8 -> J23_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor U1_SID4 - Yes tone on PIN 8 -> PIN 27 (but not as loud as U1_SID2) - No tone on PIN 27 -> U2_SID4 PIN 8 - Yes tone on PIN 8 -> J3_SID2 Audio Out with 1K Resistor (however it is so low in volume, it is almost inaudible. Had to crank my amplifier all the way to barely hear it) Any suggestions would be appreciated! I'll report back my findings on the resistor check and trace check tomorrow.
  6. frailn

    [S] MB6582

    Will you consider parting out, or do you want to sell this in one transaction to one person? Also, could not get to the images. You can upload them to this forum, if you like. Error You want to download the following file: http://rapidshare.co...257614/6582.rar | 3188 KB Currently a lot of users are downloading files. Please try again in 2 minutes or become a Premium member Please note, the server is not going to check again within the next 2 minutes if downloading is possible again. To provide a fair platform, all user get the same options. Your last attempt was 13 seconds ago.
  7. Found a web article from some guys that tried SMT soldering reflow techniques using a toaster oven. Seems to have been successful. I may try test this with some old junk boards. If I can get it to work, I may use this technique on the gm5x5x5, and eventually MBFM. Have you seen my new soldering Iron?
  8. Ankage? Is that what you call pretty ankles on a beautiful woman? As in, "check out that ankage!"
  9. I can't answer your question about parts. But, the fact that the developer's headset is only $500 is a testament to how far technology has come. Technology like this used to only belong to the realm of governments and major universities who had tens of thousands of dollars to spend. The possibilities are enormous. Imagine a club where the music was created by the combined brain wave patterns of everyone in the room. Would you create software the mixed the music? OR could there be an interface for a DJ to combine all the elements into a flow. What about mixing this with wearable electronics, something similar to the Arduino LilyPad. I'm going to go to the library and check out a copy of Gibson's Neuromancer, this weekend.
  10. Smithy, I put together the Mouser list on the wiki page this morning using the US Mouser site. If you would like to compare your list against mine maybe we can merge together the best options. I bet we probably chose different parts in some cases. EDIT: I really like the jumpers I chose because they are RED like the PCB. :)
  11. Wilba's bulk order is not complete. According to the monstrously long thread on this project: The "big" bulk order is yet to come. It will coincide with DougWellington's case design. The two small bulk orders to-date were for those wishing to build their own case and order their own front panel. You can still get on the list on the wiki page. Not sure about CV part of your question. You might want to ask Wilba.
  12. http://blog.ponoko.c...able-in-the-eu/ So now you can choose to get your products made and delivered from the USA, New Zealand or Germany. It’s another small step in solving a big problem with product manufacturing – the cost of shipping around the world. It’s great news. It means EU-based creators will pay just a fraction of the shipping costs which has made ordering products from our US and Pacific-based making hubs prohibitive. For example the cost of shipping a P1 size of 3mm thick plastic sheet of material to anywhere in Germany will plummet by about 85% to around just US$9, while places like Amsterdam and Paris will reduce by around three-quarters to about US$16! The new hub also opens up the European market for creators in other parts of the world. Items can be produced in the EU and shipped locally, reducing the cost – and environmental impact – of long-distance shipping to the EU. The German hub is the result of us licensing our online making system to Berlin-based fabber, Formulor. They are a team with 12 years’ laser cutting experience, with support from leading material supplier Modulor. The Modulor name is well known in Germany – creators like you have been using the site to source materials for more than 20 years. A glimpse into the future The German hub is a departure from our existing making hubs in the USA and New Zealand which are owned and operated by us. Formulor is 100% independent of Ponoko. This means the pricing is different, the materials catalog is different, and the business terms are different. And in this case, your package of goodies will be delivered from Formulor, not Ponoko. Over time, we see our role expanding to be about connecting creators, digital fabricators, materials suppliers and buyers of goods rather than simply providing manufacturing services ourselves. This means others like Formulor will join the Ponoko network to be suppliers of digital making services going forward, rather than just Ponoko. So just like eBay provides the marketplace for buyers and sellers to engage, Ponoko provides the world’s first marketplace for buyers and sellers of product designs – and now digital making services. We’re working with other digital making service providers to add more making hubs around the world. It’s about making it easier for you to get things made, no matter where you, or your customers, are in the world. Updates to Ponoko Existing users will notice a few changes when you log onto your MyPonoko account. Expect another post very soon explaining the nuts and bolts of those changes and how to get your stuff made and sent from Germany. If you can’t wait, log in now and follow your nose to change your making hub to Formulor in Germany. You’ll find the changes to accommodate the new hub are fairly self-explanatory. You’ve got a good reason to choose Germany now Check out the new shipping rates to Germany, the EU and UK!
  13. I sold my Prophet64 / C64 for $350 USD two years ago via eBay. And it didn't have the screen mod, like this one. Just some knobs and SID2SID and red paint. But, I don't think there will be any interested buyers on this board. Not when you can build an MB-6582 with 8 sids for much less cost.
  14. If you don't want to wait for this bulk order, try ordering your panels from Front Panel Express. You can find the FPE files on the Wiki page created by Wilba for the MB-6582. Or you can get in touch with julianf - he's a user on this board that is making panels for MB-6582 at a lower cost that FPE. He is located in the UK, I believe. But, you can message him here on the forum.
  15. Yeah, I would hate to see a legit dealer in vintage electronics get burned by scrupulous suppliers. I sent a note via eBay asking if the seller would post a photo of the markings from the underside of the chips. The response was "we will end the listing and relist with the picture." This will be a good find for the newer MB-6582 builders and the sammichSID builders if they are NOS 6581's. My son is getting interested in MIDIbox, so I'm considering purchasing a few of these.
  16. I've never heard of SID's with batch numbers on the top, instead of a date code. That doesn't mean they don't exist. But, it does bring some concern. I sent a question to the seller inquiring on a photo of the underside of these chips to see the markings. I suppose the only real way to know if they are "real" is to buy one and test it out. If it turns out to be a dud, there's always the
  17. I migrated from the Prophet64 world over to MIDIbox world a couple of years ago. It seems to be a natural progression once you experience the sounds you can generate with SID's and want to expand. Did you build the SID2SID mod for your MSSIAH-based C64? If so, then you can put together a MIDIbox-based Core kit and a couple of SID-module kits. Yes, building a SID synth with the MIDIbox platform is more complicated than a SID2SID, but it's the same basic principles of soldering and electronic circuit testing. It really doesn't take as much time as you might think. When I built my first Core and SID module, I was working two jobs, raising kids, and active at my church as a small group leader. Check out the Core and SID module pages in the wiki, on ucapps.de. Purchase your kits at SmashTV's web-store: http://avishowtech.com/mbhp/buy.html Trust me. Once you build one Core and one SID module, you'll be hooked. There are endless creative possibilities using this platform. You may discover that you will want to expand past a simple synth to a custom control surface that only you could dream up, fits your specific needs and comfort, could never find out in the wild for sale, and costs much, much cheaper.
  18. frailn

    Elfa Bulk Order

    http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_seq_parts_guide
  19. frailn

    Chip extraction

    Hopefully your SID is not soldered to the motherboard. I have seen a few C64's with this scenario. If it is not soldered, but is seated in an IC Socket, then, removal is easy. There are some who use IC Pullers, and others that use tools at hand. I don't have an IC Puller, so I use a small jewelers screwdriver. The kind you use for repairing eyeglasses. Make sure that you have grounded yourself and the screwdriver. You don't want static electricity to destroy your SID. I just take the small jeweler's screwdriver (flat head) and slide it under one side of the SID, lifting it just a tiny bit. Then I do the same on the other side. I go back an forth, very carefully, just a microscopic move at a time until it comes loose. You will want to be careful not to bend or break any of the pins on the SID. I have attached a photo with arrows pointing to the two areas where I slide the screwdriver under the SID. If the SID is soldered to the board, then you will need a soldering iron and a desoldering braid or solder-sucker. There are many videos and instructions on the net that describe the best ways to desolder components from PCB's. The key is to start with a cleaned board - clean with alcohol. Adding a bit of flux to the solder joints will help, as well. I've had mixed luck desoldering chips or components from old PCB's. Sometimes it's easy, other times, it's not so easy. A couple of Notes about dissassembling the C64: The keyboard has a wire harness that plugs into the motherboard. You can use the small screwdriver to pull it free from it's connection point. The motherboard has a metal cover on the bottom. If you have to desolder your SID, then this will have to be removed. It's best done with some sort of small tin snips. Don't try to desolder it from the mobo like I did. There's too much heat being drawn from the desoldering point. After you remove your SID, keep the remaining parts. You never know when you might need them. The power port can be used for the SID v2 optimized PSU. There are projects that repurpose the Keyboard. You may even need to desolder an electronic component or two if you run short in a project. They can be reused, but they are old, so maybe not a good idea. I kept my C64 cases and parts for future projects.
  20. Bought this for use with the MBFM project. However, decided to go with an old Amiga 500 PSU instead. So, now I'm selling it! EDIT: I think you can use this for the MIDIbox CV project as well. But, you may want to research ucapps.de to make sure. The kit comes with PCB, the parts and a wall wart. All you need to do is solder it together. It outputs +/- 12 volts for the MBFM board. You would still need an additional 5 volt power source for the Core. I bought it brand new from PAiA for $41 + shipping. I'm willing to sell for less to move it. Prefer PayPal, but will consider other forms of payment. PM offers. PAiA Product Page Kit Manual
  21. Okay, so I'm poking around on Vintage Synth Explorer website reading up on old Moog's and Korg's and click on a link in a comment on one the pages and end up at the website of someone I've never heard of - Dr. Motte...I think I should have known about this guy by now, but I blame on being an old fart and American. So, I start watching these videos and realize that these videos contain footage of an annual festival called "Love Parade" - what the hell? This is awesome! Puts our Mardi Gras to shame! You Berliners know how to party. That's all I have to say. Wishing I hadn't missed out on this back in the nineties when I was young, single and free....
  22. Another Forum member, Ganyru, is planning a similar These hexagonal keys are custom made for the company that produces the Axis-64. They seem to be very hard to locate. A custom solution is suggested by SSP on the forum thread linked above. Out of curiosity, I've searched the internet and could only come up with this.. But, I like SSP's suggestion. It seems to be a good practical solution until these types of keys are readily available on the market.
  23. Also, you will need a C64 power port, power switch and joystick ports (for plugging in your bank stick modules). I salvaged mine from a defunct C64 motherboard by desoldering them using soldering iron and desoldering braid. Be sure to clean the soldering joints with alcohol and add a little flux to make the process easier. The braid gets really hot! So be warned. Use tweezers to hold it or wear something on your fingers to protect from the heat. If you need an old C64 motherboard, I have a bunch collecting dust in my basement. I can send you a couple for free. You would just pay for shipping. And, you will need a breadboard for building the optimized PSU circuit. A tip - when I order from Smash, I like to order more than the project needs of the following : Ribbon cable IDC connectors SIL crimps SIL headers DIL headers And when I order from Mouser, I get at least one extra of each component if they are not too expensive. For example, and extra capacitor or two. It's always good to have extra parts, just in case you break something. I tend to break things. So, maybe it's just me. But, it's frustrating to have to stop in the middle of a project due to not having a part or messing one up.
  24. Glad to be of help! Let me know how that 4 pin connector works out.
  25. Try an I just checked eBay UK and there are several for sale. Just make sure you get the correct type. There were two types produced by Commodore. The correct type is very heavy, because it is a linear PSU. The wrong type is very light, because it is a switching supply. You don't want the switching supply. The one I plan on using: Type: A500 type 1 Part number: 312503-02 Current: 5V/2.5A * 12V/1.0A * -12V/0.1A Total power: 25.7W There are at least two of these for sale on eBay UK with buy it now option. The only thing you will have to do is modify the PSU by removing the connector that plugs into the Amiga and replace it with a more standard connector. The connector is not standard and you will be hard pressed to find a receptacle to match it, unless you choose to cannibalize one from an old Amiga (which I would not recommend - save the Amigas!) This option will not fit in your case, but would be an external solution.
×
×
  • Create New...