jooks

500€?!

fixed the link to when I was building it. thx Tbreath.

Im in Sweden btw. And there is à C64 psu included in the deal.

Midibox MB6582. It has 8 NOS 6582A SIDs. It´s working great and sounds fantastic apart from core2 which is working now and then. You can read about it here from when I was building it: CORE2 was working for awhile but then stopped again and I was happy enough with the 3 stereo SIDs that are working so I never bothered to fix it again. I haven´t soldered the feedback pots or fan either. My experience is that the fan isn´t needed but the feedback pots might be fun! Some pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37701459@N04/ Sold. Im in Sweden but shipping anywhere is ok. Regards Erik

Thanks Thorsten! Best regards, Erik

Hi, I built a MB6582 some years ago. Its an incredible synth but I havent used it much due to other commitments. I would now like to ask if its ok to sell it. I will ask only what I paid in parts. Thanks, Erik

[table] [tr][td]Tamiflu[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]ilmenator[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]vout[/td][td]2[/td][/tr] [tr][td]boops[/td][td]2[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Nestle[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]lucem[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Flexi[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Morten[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Jooks[/td][td]1[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Total[/td][td]11[/td][/tr] [/table]

Nestle 1 Tamiflu 1 ilmenator 1 vout 2 boops 2 lucem 1 Flexi 1 Jooks 1 Total 10 Thanks for doing this!

So with a new multimeter I was able to figure out that my psu section problems were not only a broken bridge rectifier (probably from a short between it´s in/out) but also a faulty psu. And yep, the multimeter was broken also....I´m very glad everything worked out before I got crazy.....Now everything is working fine! Now wiring and uploading :)

I guess you´re right....that´s the only thing I can be sure of. BUT...I´m still happy :) I´m pretty sure it works now. I´m a believer.

Hey Mike, huge thanks!! You saved me from going over everything for the 20:th time:-) My multimeter measures 20V AC across a 9V battery....I guess that means I have a functioning optimized psu for my sid!! YIHAAA!!

Ok, update on the optimized psu since I finaly got hold of another bridge rectifier.... When measuring DC I get: - 5.20V at 5V output - 5.20V at led pin - 14.09V at 14V output pin So far so good but when measuring AC I also get: ~ 10V at 5V output ~ 10V at led pin ~ 30V at 14V output... Somehow there´s AC going everywhere in the circuit but I can´t figure out why??! I use a W10G bridge rectifier but from what I understand (which I agree is not much) it should make no difference. If anyone has an idea what could be wrong I´d really appreciate it.

Similar problem but my psu seems ok and give a steady 11-12VAC and 5.5VDC. I went over the board again and found a short between the bridge rectifier - leg and ~leg. Fixed it but still the same problem with 10-12VAC almost everywhere....maybe the short have destroyed the bridge rectifier?

Did some more measuring since I found out that I forgot to switch to AC on the multi :-[ So much to remember;-) Still no good results though. I got: - 11.1VAC and 10.3VAC for pins 6 and 7 (solder side). - 11.4VAC-5.5VDC after bridge rect (+ side) - 11.3VAC-5.4VDCafter bridge rect (-side) - 11.8VAC-5.4VDC just before voltage reg pin 1 - 0.00VAC-5.4VDC volt reg pin2 - 10.9VAC-5.36VDC volt reg pin3 - 10.9VAC at the 14VDC output pin??? 5.36VDC when set to DC.... - 5.36VDC at 5VDC pins - 5.36VDC at power led pins (no led attached) Conclusion: I have no idea why I get both AC and DC readings all the way in the 14VDC line except at the voltage regulatur pin2. ....very small changes in voltage also. voltage seems ok until the bridge rectifier but nothing changes after it. Not functioning? hm thinking about it it seems like this could be it. Bridge rectifier not working....but then again I have very little knowledge of these things so if anyone could confirm this thought in anyway I´d be greatful. 11.4VAC into the voltreg and 10.9 out....is this because it gets AC at pin1 and DC at pin2?

Nice compact design TafterT! And extra plus it worked. Mine didn´t....or sort of not. I got around 5.40V for all pins but when measuring the dinplug pins on solderside I get around 5.40V for all pins there also. I have tested the psu before and got both 5 and 9 v out of it. But now 5.40V from pins 6 and 7 also...strange. I have another psu but a bit afraid of trying that if there is something on my homemade board that i wrong... don´t know what else to do either? It comes to mind that when testing my psu´s output pins I got some "lightning" one time (shortcut?), maybe that got it messed up? Hmmm... edit: I got a clean 0.00V from pin 6 and 7 on the psu and 5.40V from pin 4. So the psu is dead. Question is if my opt psu killed it or if I killed it a couple of months ago when testing the output voltages..

Encouraged after celebrating the working mb6582 (thanks for the dance stryd_one!) I started working on the optimized 64 psu for the mono sid. I´ve been worried about doing this since day 1...with no prior skills do read a schematic and no knowledge about vero boards and such I´ve been really lost in my mind but finaly I felt that it was time for learning by doing (trial and error). My ordered parts looked ok except for the super big caps. They are apparently not ceramics (poly?) but does it matter (same specs)? Butchered the c64 to get the switch and dinplug (desoldering was ugly with more violance then you might expect in electronics). I first made a sketch with all connections and where to jumper and cut and then just soldered away...6 jumpers on component side and 4 solder side (not the best layout I guess;-) but I´m very happy if it works! I´m not finished yet since I still have to cut the tracks in proper places (need a drill or something) Here is the result so far: still have to solder jumpers between pin 4-5 and gnd on the power in pins.

Even this day I don´t want to miss the opportunity to get a 6583A ;)

Yeah, I´m not 100% sure what tests I did after reheating and I think I might have went over it again afterwards...I´ve done so much testing I can´t remember.... I forgot to mention I also tested with the PIC halfway seated like you suggested and it worked like that also. Cheers ;) I´ll have one myself and celebrate tonight!

Got another 40 pin socket today and made some tests. Used PIC#1 in core2 and it worked! Then tried PIC#1 without the extra socket...and it worked! Tried again, worked. Put in all the other PICs in their cores and core2 still worked :) So....question is if this is solved now? It might be that my reheating of "perhaps dodgy" solderjoints made the necessery different? Then again it didn´t work after I did that but my core2 maybe just needed some extra attention and pampering before it decided to work :P I don´t know. Time will tell I guess if it´s still intermittent or not. So far so good. But many many thanks for the help Wilba!! Beers on me ;) Thanks stryd and everyone else who contributed and supported through this hard time in my mb6582 building :) Now back to upload mb582 apps and test with sids!

I´m very surprised the connection proved to be better with my bent socket pins/wire thingy. The extra socket was really bad quality also and didn´t sit well in the mounted socket (I even thought I would have to press it down while testing) I tested resistance (pad/joint - ic-socket on top)for all pins and it was 00.1ohm for all pins except pin2 and pin 39 that had 00.2ohm. I also tested continuity with the pic mounted and I got a "beep" for both pin 13 and 14 (and all other pins) I´m very glad I don´t have to desolder :) It was a great and very creative idea (thanks Wilba :))to try this cause it was ALOT easier then resoldering and that would only have led to more confussion since it would still not work! I´m not that wise (yet ;)) but will get another tomorrow and try it out. I hope we won´t come to this :o If it works with an extra ic socket I guess I have to live with that...

Finaly had some spare time today and tried Wilbas suggested method of testing the core crystal/caps. I used the proved working pic #2 and put it in proved working CORE3 with crystal/caps (pin 13 and 14) of CORE4. I got a "ready" message and was very :) the method worked! Then tried non-working CORE2 with crystal/caps of CORE3 and got a "ready" message!! So at this point I thought the problem was solved. Bad crystal and/or caps in CORE2. But for a final test I tried to put the pic in CORE1 and use the crystal/caps of CORE2 just to prove this theory. And of course I got a "ready" message.....and I tried several times just to be sure it wasn´t intermittent. So all cores work if I use pin13 and 14 of another core..... :( And I don´t want to do that! Unfortunatly I didn´t have the time to do any more crosstesting but I will this evening (try another pic maybe)

It was this quote I refered to but I have a 40-pin socket source in town so I´ll leave my PIC pins as they are :)(which I´m quite happy to!)

Thanks Wilba :) This make sense and I understand that desoldering is the very last thing to do....I will give this a try first although at first I got a little scared when reading about bending pic pins and such ;) But if it works without soldering any vital parts I should be ok. I think. Hm, no unfortunatly my multimeter can´t measure freq´s. I´ve done some reading on swedish electronic forums and it seems quite difficult to measure if a crystal/caps works the way it should or not even with a oscilloscope because you change the circuit doing this but maybe it would be enough to crosscheck values between working cores and non-working? I´ve also read that a crystal probably will be damaged if dropped to the ground from more then 10cm (I don´t think this is the case here but you never know). I´ve also read about similar problems due to faulty ceramic caps (but they are apparantly hard to damage by heat)... more testing before replacing though. I´ll be back next week with some results and hopefully a working core2 :) Good thing I´m not in a hurry with this and I´m also learning alot from the troubles (always look at the bright side of life ;))

I bought them from elfa.se for 27 swedish kronor (approx. 2.90 euro). I love them but they cost as much as they look and feel great!

I got my last 3 6582´s today :) Thanks Wilba! Hope I will be able to use all of them at the same time... I´m all dizzy after testing... Found no shorts between PIC pins. Pin 11 and pin 32 are connected but that´s how it´s supposed to be I think. - I put the PIC in the socket as far as I could and tested continuity between inserted PIC#2 and IC-socket solder joints/pads. No problems discovered. - Continuity for all pins and the pads they are connected to (as in the pdf guide). I also tested for shorts at the pads they connected to. No shorts found. I got no continuity for pin 14 to ground J4 but that was the case for all U1_COREs so I guess no problem. - Tested resistance as suggested by stryd (solder joint to top side of IC-socket). With lowest setting (up to 200ohm) I got 00.1 for all pins but pin 2: 00.2 and pin 39: 00.2 (I guess this could be a measurment fault also). Resistance changed some depending on were on the joint I tested but that should be normal right? At one point I thought I´ve found the problem and that was when I discovered that there was a resistance of 1.7K between top side of pin 12 and solder joint pin11 and 600ohm top side pin11 and solder joint pin12 (This was also the case for pin 31 and pin 32). I then discovered I got the same results for the other U1_COREs so that should be ok since they work? Is there anything in these results that can explain the intermittent "ready" message. Is there anything else I can test before replacing C1/C2_CORE2 and crystal? Thanks! Erik