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sakodak

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About sakodak

  • Birthday 09/13/1973

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    Male
  • Location
    St. Louis, MO

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  1. Thank you for the MB 6582 kit (), and thank you for a smooth and pleasant transaction. The item was exactly as you described, and is well worth every dollar.

    I have no hesitation in recommending you to others.

    To your good health, kind sir.

    Stewart (Ghost_Danser)

  2. Yeah, that's why I said "I have no idea what's fair." Make an offer.
  3. I'd like to get at least $400 out of it, I'm sure I put in more than twice that, all things considered -- but I have no idea what's fair. I can check all the invoices -- most of them are still in the box with all the stuff.
  4. Sold to Stewart below. I have most of the parts for a MB-6582 that have, unfortunately, been sitting and collecting dust for quite a while. I didn't want to start on it until I had all the parts sourced, and I got hung up on the case and faceplates. Regardless, I've lost momentum and I don't even play much music anymore anyway, so I'm looking to recover some of the money I spent on parts and give someone else the opportunity. So, per the rules I'm asking for permission do to so. Thanks. Parts: 8x 6582A SID chips (purchased directly from Wilba) 14x black and red knobs (the hard to find ones that Wilba used) 14x rotary encoders w/ detents removed 1x rotary encoder w/ detent 48x push buttons from mouser (688-SKHHDT) MB6582 KIT A w/ PIC Base PCB CS PCB 2 bags of red LEDs from Smash 1 bag of green LEDs from Smash midi jack pcb from Smash red/black LCD panel (I paid way too much -- I got the serial version because the non-serial red/black was out of stock.) Basically, everything except the case, faceplates and power supply. http://i.imgur.com/AJBIi.jpg Sad to see it go, but it's gotta go.
  5. My wife tells me the knobs arrived at the house today. I haven't seen them yet, but thanks! (I'm stuck at work.)
  6. Thank you for the update Goblinz. Sorry you're having a difficult time, and sorry if I added to it -- hopefully you can understand the concern. If there's anything I can do to make things easier on you, don't hesitate to let me know.
  7. I think it's perfectly fair to express discomfort when more than a month ago he said he'd start sending them "first thing" two weeks from then, and the whole transaction has so far taken more than half a year. I understand that he isn't Amazon, but I think that it's time to start asking questions. Maybe there are legitimate reasons it's taking so long, and that's OK, but I hope you can understand why I (and apparently others) are a bit concerned. Every other experience I've had dealing with people in the midibox community has been a pleasurable one, and I have no desire to raise a big stink, but I'd like to at least see a picture of the knobs with Goblinz's username on a piece of paper or something, so we at least know he's got them. I'm still giving the benefit of the doubt, but I have no desire to see my money walk away (and worse, not get those yummy knobs) without asking a few questions.
  8. I'm more than a little uncomfortable now. It's been 8 months. I've kept quiet because, hey, things happen, but this is getting ridiculous.
  9. I have them as PDFs. I emailed them to you. Also, did you used to hang out at a Korg Triton forum?
  10. Ok, yeah, hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent, but (at least in my experience) the word "bleach" is reserved for chlorine bleach. And now the word "bleach" has ceased to look right to me because I'm typing it so much. Regardless, this is pretty good news to me.
  11. I know you're joking, but it's not quite as simple as that. The yellowing process is due to oxidation of the bromine that's added to ABS as a fire retardant. This process actually reverses the chemical reaction that causes the yellowing. It's a restorative process, not a cleaning process. Also, H202 isn't bleach. :p The ability to restore ABS is kind of a big deal -- for years and years the commonly held wisdom is that there was no solution to the problem and you either had to 1) paint over it carefully or 2) live with it. This process is the holy grail of old computer collectors that want to restore their collections to their out-of-the-box state. Granted, not everyone will want to, but at least now it's a viable option.
  12. Yeah, these guys don't recommend going above 15% H2O2 for exactly those reasons. Even at that concentration you need to exercise caution -- wear eye protection, etc.
  13. I figured you guys would appreciate this: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ These guys came up with a home-brew way to completely eliminate the yellowing in old plastic. Make your 64 cases look as good as new. I know I'm gonna try this on my old stuff as soon as I can get a hold of some xantham gum. Edit: this only works with fire-retardant ABS, not PET, and could damage PET type plastics. ONLY USE THIS METHOD ON ABS.
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