analogue_mo

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About analogue_mo

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    MIDIbox Newbie
  • Birthday 05/24/1983

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  • Website URL http://mexe.no.sapo.pt

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Portugal
  • Interests Interesting Stuff
  1. Trouble re-burning 16f88

    Thanks, This seems to be exactly what I wanted/needed. MPLAB compatible, USB powered and fancy IC holder thingy; I'm gonna give it a try! Regards, Mo
  2. Trouble re-burning 16f88

    Thank you very much for your help ! You're a lifesaver I would never had figured this out by myself! I'll probably buy a new programmer since my old one is falling to pieces, I would like to ask if anyone out there knows of a good USB programmer??? Regards, Mo
  3. Trouble re-burning 16f88

    I'm using the PICburner module from ucapps, the pbrennerNG44 software from sprut.de to burn and MPlab to code n compile. I haven't tried to write the config bits in the code itself but i'll try to do this. Thanks for the tip. Mo
  4. Trouble re-burning 16f88

    Hello to all. After successfully creating a couple of 16f84a projects I finally decided it was time to move on to the next level. I started experimenting with the pic16f88. I started by creating a really simple code that would toggle every port of the pic at a predefined rate. My goal was to try and use as many pins as possible so I disabled MCLR pin to use it as an output and used the Internal clock Osc to get two more I/O pins; I compiled and I burned with no problems! Then I changed my code a little(changed the toggle rate time) and when I pressed "Identify pic in Programmer" in the "PbrennerNG" softwarethe PIC was allways recognized as a "16f84" wich lead me to believe that the pic wasn't getting reconized at all. If you try and press this button with no pic placed in the programmer, it will tell you there's a pic16f84 in it. My first thoughts were: "$#!- I got a messed up pic". So I got a fresh new 16f88 out of the box and repeated the whole procedure. Everything went fine, the PIC got successfully burned and the program worked. Once again, when I tried to reburn this PIC I was unable to do it as the PBrennerNG software started recognizing it as a "PIC16F84". So I realize it wasn't about the PIC, It's probably something about the configuration bits! Does anyone out there knows how to resolve this? I've already tried and checked the "Vpp before Vdd" box but that didn't doany good. Any help is apreciated, thanks in advance. Mo
  5. MIDIBOX SID - DIN problem(solved)

    Hi nILS, Yeap, I started by uploading MIOS_v1_9g....yet, I did it only once.....I never got to re-upload it but Ill try and do it later on. Right now I'm all about testing this new wonderfull toy =) I'm going for the full step C surface so there is still some work to be done. Going back to the lab.....keep midiboxin!Cheers. analogue_mo
  6. MIDIBOX SID - DIN problem(solved)

    Well, I just found out what the problem was...Apparently I've got a messed up PIC. First I took it from the midibox_sid and tested it in a separate core module I had laying around. I uploaded the midio128 app and got the same response from the SRIO chain(the button connected to D7 outputs a bunch of midi messages and none of the other buttons works). Now I know that the problem is not on the core module. Lucky for me I allways tend to order this kinds of things in pairs, so I had another fresh PIC 18F4685. I stuffed it into the midibox sid core module, uploaded the midibox sid app and everything started functioning.
  7. Hello to all! I'm currently building a midibox sid using aviswhowtech's parts. My current setup is: -mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized; -pic core with pic18f4685 and 4x20 LCD; -2x sid modules (for stereo sid); I've uploaded the sid test_tone app and everything turned out alright, i got a triangle waveshape output on each of the sid modules. When i connected the SRIO chain to the core module for the minimal configuration setup(9x buttons + 1 encoder) and using the standard pin setup, i realised that only the button connected to SR1 D7 would react on the midibox. My first reaction was to test the SRIO chain with an arduino and check if the buttons were responding properly. The test was 100% successfull so i guess the problem wasn't about the shiftRegisters or short circuits on the SRIO chain modules. After some toubleshooting and investigation I realised that I was getting the problem described here in the section "Testing Shift Registers Connections" (almost at the end of the page). I think this is my problem cause I've uploaded midio128 app and once the SR1 D7 button is pressed it will make the midibox output a bunch of midi notes and cc messages. So I've uploaded the srio_interconnection_test app in order to check the SC and RC pins in my core. The result was unsuccessfull! I got the following voltage values: _____KEY C____________________KEY C#______________KEY D____________ GND__-->__SO = 5V________GND__-->__SO = 0V________GND__-->__SO = 0V GND__-->__SI = 5V________GND__-->__SI = 5V________GND__-->__SI = 5V GND__-->__SC = 0V________GND__-->__SC = 0V________GND__-->__SC = 0V GND__-->__RC = 0V________GND__-->__RC = 0V________GND__-->__RC = 0V GND__-->__VD = 5V________GND__-->__VD = 5V________GND__-->__VD = 5V Then I went searching on the forum and found post so I decided to use an osciloscope to check the signal on pins 21 and 22 of the pic(RC and SC). PIC PIN 21 (RC) PIC PIN 22 (SC) As you can see the signal on pin 22(SC) has much more amplitude than the signal on pin 21(RC). Is this normal?? I apreciate if anyone out there can take some time to help me cause I'm really out of ideas of how i should proceed next. Thanks in advance... analogue_mo
  8. BrennerNG weird error reports

    Hello, I was having the same problem trying to program a 16f84a..... I was getting about 22 errors in program and one error in config....fortunately, I already knew that the code wasn't the problem, cause I've used it before and successfuly burned the pic... It turned out to be a hardware problem....I had a faulty transistor(bc337) that was not shutting Vpp off, so, no matter what code I would use, I would allways get the same errors! here is a link to the thread that described this symptoms http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,14111.0.html after replacing the transistor everything went perfectly! So my advice is: -Make sure that you're passing all hardware tests; -In order to help you debug your burner module follow this thread: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,14114.0.html Good luck!
  9. PIC Burner weird problem

    hello, I don't actually know how to solve your problem, but my advice is: 1-Use a multimeter to check what voltage your getting from your dc power supply; 2-Check how many Amps your DC is outputting (I'm not really sure but I believe it should be 500mA to suply the pic burner); 3-Make sure you are plugging the DC power suply into the right place, I've managed to explode my 7805 by connecting my power source to the probe plugs by accident; Now turn ON the pic Burner.... 3-Check the voltage your getting after the LM317 power suply circuit stage(you should manage to use the trimpot to adjust its output to 12-13V); 4-Do the same for the 7805(it should be outputing 5V); 5-Now check if you are getting voltage into your ICs:   on IC3 :     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 14 (VSS) and check if your multimeter is reading about 5V;   on IC4 :     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 14 (VSS) and check if your multimeter is reading about 5V; 6-In order to debug your PC connections: 6.1-open your burner (p18 or PBrenner) software and select 'HARDWARE' TAB after selecting 'OPTIONS' TAB.Now you have those little buttons that turn the circuit leds on and off;     on IC3:     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 1 (VPP enable);     -Now press the 'VPP ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does'nt exist(it should be around 0V);     -Now press the 'VPP OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does exist(it should be around 5V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 13 (VDD enable);     -Now press the 'VDD ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exist(it should be 0V);     -press the 'VDD OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does exists(it should be around5V);   on IC4:     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 1 (CLOCK);     -Now press the 'SCLK ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage exists(it should be around 5V);     -Now press the 'SCLK OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exists(it should be 0V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 6 (DATA OUT);     -Now press the 'SDATA ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage exists(it should be around 5V);     -press the 'SDATA OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exists(it should be 0V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 13 (DATA IN);     -Now press the 'SDATA ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage exists(it should be around 5V);     -press the 'SDATA OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exists(it should be 0V); 7 - If all of this tests are passing so far that means that you have a good LPT cable and that your computer is comunicating with your programmer hardware, so now you should check your ICs output voltages in order to ensure that this chips are working properly:     on IC3:     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe first on PIN 11 then on PIN 12 (VDD);     -Now press the 'VDD ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage is about 5V on both PINS(11 and 12);     -Now press the 'VDD OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesnt exist(it should be around 0V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 10 (VDD led);     -Now press the 'VDD ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exist(it should be 0V);     -press the 'VDD OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does exists(it should be around5V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe first on PIN 4 then on PIN 5 (VPP);     -Now press the 'VPP ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage is about 0V on both PINS(4 and 5);     -Now press the 'VPP OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage is about 5V on both PINS;     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 6 (VPP led);     -press the 'VPP ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage is about 5V;     -press the 'VPP OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does'nt exist(it should be around 0V);     on IC4:     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe first on PIN 9 then on PIN 10 (DATA IO);     -press the 'SDATA ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage exists on both pins(it should be around 5V);     -press the 'SDATA OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage doesn't exists on both pins(it should be 0V);     -put the black probe of your multimeter on PIN 7 (GROUND)  and the red probe on PIN 4 (CLOCK);     -Now press the 'SCLK ON' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage does'nt exist(it should be around 0V);     -Now press the 'SCLK OFF' button on the burner software and check if your multimeter indicates that voltage is about 5V; 8 - Ok, if you've passed all the tests and still don't manage to work with your programmer then it can only means that you've missplaced or forgot some component. So you should re-check that all components are there and that they're correctly connected. Ensure that polarity of transistors and diodes is correct. Also You should be 100% positive that all components are healthy. This turned out to be a bigger reply than  I was expecting, I've been recently debugging my programmer.It was giving me problems because of a faulty transistor, without this tests I would never had figured it out, so I hope this can help others with solving theire programmers problems.... Cheers
  10. pic burner troubleshooting(solved)

    Solved! It really was a bad baaaad BC337! replaced it, and now I get 0V between MCLR and Ground when the VPP is off.... Hope this can help anyone else out there. Cheers ;)
  11. Pic Burner

    Hello everybody, I've been working with my PIC BURNER in this last couple of days, and I've been founding some problems, so, while I was browsing the forum for some answers I found this topic and decided to jump in. The exact same thing happens to me also, Vpp led goes ON when I turn the burner ON....and it only goes OFF after pressing Vpp ON and Vpp OFF buttons in PBrenner.. I have no printer installed, but I have a printer emulator(that prints stuff into pdf files)..... I've been getting other problems but I've created a new topic for this. cheers
  12. I think I've burned my PIC BURNER My problem is that when performing the hardware tests on PBrennerNG software I allways get the same Voltage value between PIC MCLR and PIC GROUND pins. I supose that once the Vpp button  is off, there should'nt be any Voltage between this two pins, am I right? I'm not an electronics expert I only know few basic stuff but I've  tried to 'read' the circuit layout and assumed that the BC337 is working as a gate that once it is opened drains all the Voltage to the Ground, closing the Power supply circuit, so that MCLR PIN never gets to have any Voltage available. I've tried to short the BC337 emiter and collector pins and successfully got 0V between PIC MCLR and PIC GROUND pins.... So I've measured all important Voltages in order to try to understand where the problem was and got the following values: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --> VPP OFF: Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and IC3 pin 4 and 5 (goes to BC337 base pin) = 5V (4.96V) Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and IC3 pin 6 (red led) = 0V Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and BC337 base pin = 5V (actually it goes around 4.38V) Voltage between BC337 collector and emitter pins = 0V voltage between PIC MCLR and PIC GROUND = Vpp (12.47V ) <-- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --> VPP ON: Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and IC3 pin 4 and 5 (goes to BC337 base pin) = 0V Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and IC3 pin 6 (red led) = 5V (4.71V) Voltage between IC3 pin 9 (ground) and BC337 base pin = 0V Voltage between BC337 collector and emitter pins = Vpp (12.47V ) voltage between PIC MCLR and PIC GROUND = Vpp (12.47V ) <-- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, my conclusion is that I need to replace the BC337 cause it's flowing current trough emmiter collector even though the base Voltage is 0V, and current doesn't flow when Vb = 4.38V .Shouldn't this be happening the oposit way? Before I start unsoldering I've decided to ask some advice from the experts out there, so that I don't make a bigger mess out of this. I think I've managed to destroy 3 16F84A so far.... Any help is apreciated, thanks in advance.
  13. programming a pic16f84a

    Well I can only say: that helped A LOT! My problem was simply solved by using PBrennerNG instead of the other 'P18' app. It took me a while to get it, thank you all for your pacience! I must say I was having a hard time browsing around sprut.de cause I don't know how to interpretate the German Language. I was already using Mplab for making some really simple asm codes but I'm sure that there are a lot of people out there who will see the 'Holy Grail' in this nice tutorial. As far as start using more advanced pics only the future will tell... Thank you all very much for this lesson and for the tips as well :)
  14. programming a pic16f84a

    thanks for your replies! I know that each pic family has its own instruction set, the thing is, as I am trying to learn PIC programming I guess it would just be better to start experimenting with a simpler and cheaper PICs.....I just don't know why the P18 software doesnt recognize the pic16f84a! Is there any other software that I can use to burn 16F pics with the PIC PROGRAMMER MODULE?? Thanks.............
  15. programming a pic16f84a

    Well, I've been trying to program a pic16f84a with the PIC programer module. When I run the p18 app, the programmer gets recognized and all the hardware tests are OK, but when I press the "Identify Pic on Programmer" button, the pic does'nt get recognized. As I understand from the manual, it is possible to program the 16f84a with this hardware programmer, is anything else required in order to make this happen?? Has anyone ever acomplished this successfuly?? Any help is apreciated!