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Hawkeye

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Everything posted by Hawkeye

  1. sid gabba and nice sid acid!! surely will have wet dreams tonight ;-) thx for the demo mp3s!
  2. Cool wood work, respect! That thing looks so mean and it is - it stomps all other sid synths into the ground, questions asked later :)
  3. OT and as a sidenote... it´s a mad world... captcha wars... captcha generators, captcha-breaking-bots, captcha-generator countermeasures, the current trend is going towards "crowdsourced" people in bangladesh, which are cheap and more effective than captcha breaking bots and are already used to "register" on high-volume sites.
  4. yay, these night-shots are all the hype in 2011 :frantics: looks great!
  5. i totally agree - it is also especially nice for entering bassline sequences... it is just a bit quicker for that (the rest is mega-fine!) than using the cs for me, which does not devaluate the cs but rather demonstrates my poor non-mouse skillz :)
  6. I understand the fear of fried sids and also have an uneasy feeling about using the aged standard power brick... On the other hand, I´ve used c64s for 25 years now (some years more frequently, some years less frequently, but there was no single year when i did not use it - katakis and chris huelsbeck rule) and i must say that during that lifespan i never had a faulty PSU, the worst thing that happened to me was a fried 6566 (video) chip.
  7. not 100% sure, but it lets you edit all major things for sure... i used it before i built the control surface and must say it is completely sufficient to become obsessed and build the cs shortly after ;-).
  8. Quoting Wilba: 2A if you want to be safe - the 1.x amps from the original c64 psu work fine. Beware of switching PSUs, as they may add noise to your analog audio path, the old-school linear original C64 psu is not a bad choice at least regarding noise.
  9. Yesterday I had to replace the EBS35 (Reichelt Link) which I installed in the mb6582 just a few months ago (with not many plug-in cycles) - i would avoid these from now on, if possible. The EB K4-35 (Reichelt Link) might be a little bit sturdier (at least they look so in my eyes) but they cost six times as much ;-)
  10. Nice to see and hear your patches, moaaaaar :-) Here are two of mine, this time a more 8-bit-era-sounding brass sound :-) The first part of the demo was played live on a keyboard (using a non-mb6582 instrument), then the brass2 instrument which was played by a seq lowpass-filter-fades in, from then it is just the 4-channel stereo mb6582 and the seq :-) - no fx, but a very simple digital echo was added - keyboard playing in part one, mb6582-lowpass filtering and seq track muting performed live :) Brass1.zip Brass2.zip BrassDemo.mp3
  11. Step 28: Creating the "Transport" Control Surface Module Parts Used: * 1 pcs stable (epoxy) vector board 16cm x 10cm with soldering pads on both sides (same as in previous steps) * 9pcs tactile switches and button caps (same as in previous steps) * 6pcs duo leds (same as in previous steps) * 12mm M3 screws * M3 nuts * 2pcs 10-pin board interconnector sockets and plugs (for connecting to the core) * An 8 pin board interconnector socket and plug * A length of 8-pin ribbon wire * A label maker (optional) * A bench drill or a hand drill and a 2mm and 3mm drill * Enamelled copper wire (same as in previous steps) * Your favorite soldering equipment Description: * Ok, before things get too boring, let´s quickly finish the final "standard" control surface module... * Create a plan first (photo 1) - as usual, I´ve attached the current MBSEQ_HW.V4 file * As this is a small "edge" module, cut the vector board to a width of 116mm (instead of 160mm) and install and label the i12 and o8 connectors (photo 2). * Add the tactile switches just as shown in photo 3. * Now it´s time to choose drilling locations for the hex standoffs and drill the cs vector board and the temporary construction base accordingly. I´ve installed M3 screws to avoid soldering cables or components too close to the drill holes (photo 4). * Install the LEDs for STOP, PLAY and RECORD (the RECORD LEDs will be wired to use red instead of the standard green color) (photo 5). * Install an 8-pin board interconnector socket and wire all components as planned (photo 6). Photo 7 shows the underside of this CS vector board. * Create a short interconnector cable using an 8-pin crimp plug attached to 8 very short ribbon cables on the left of the "command" module. * Ok, I promise to not publish any more "christmas-tree" night shots :-) (photo 9). Notes: * Now this is a completely functional MBSEQ V4, all buttons, LEDs and encoders are working, I like the keyboard layout so far and already can´t imagine to sit at the keyboard without a SEQ on my knees :-) * But we are not finished yet... the control surface needs a proper "case" and there is some space left on the right side of the construction base - we have 32 DOUT pins still available, let´s see, what we can do with them :-). MBSEQ_HW.V4.TXT
  12. thanks again for your time and efforts... lets hope, that they get their business sorted...
  13. Hawkeye

    MBSEQ V4 HDR

    Thanks for all of this alien technology, TK. :-)
  14. Hawkeye

    MBSEQ V4 HDR

    From the album: Hawkeyes MB stuff

    Ok, sorry to bore you... I promise, this is the last night shot, at least for this month ;-)
  15. Hawkeye

    MBSEQ V4 at Night

    hehehe, thanks, i polished the table for an hour ;-)
  16. This one should do it in a real c64: http://mccormick.cx/projects/aSid/ mios - just the plain mbsid app will allow you to switch filters on and off and change the cutoff and resonance values.
  17. Well i guess it does not matter - if the chips survived up to today, they will likely survive another few decades :-). I have had only had good experiences with the 8580s, and as they run a little bit cooler than the 6581s, i´d expect them to have a higher life expectancy, but I guess nobody really has measured it ;-). Btw, if you have a working C64, you can test the SIDs in there, of course. And i totally agree about the most important computer, if a higher deity would send me to a deserted island (with ac mains power ofc) with only one technological device allowed, i would know what it would be, and it would not be my shaver ;-)
  18. Hawkeye

    MBSEQ V4 at Night

    From the album: Hawkeyes MB stuff

    An atmospheric shot dedicated to Antix, my friend ;-)
  19. Well i guess i was really lucky - harvested 9 c64-ii from ebay (partially marked as broken and partially in really bad shape, all rotten and stuff) and obtained 8 fully working 8580s. It is a big mess to vampire them though, really leaves bad karma traces.
  20. Step 27: Creating and Installing the "Command" Control Surface Module Parts Used: * 1 pcs stable (epoxy) vector board 16cm x 10cm with soldering pads on both sides (same as in previous steps) * 22pcs tactile switches and button caps (same as in previous steps) * 44pcs duo leds (same as in previous steps) * 12mm M3 screws * M3 nuts * 5pcs 10-pin board interconnector sockets and plugs (for connecting to the core) * A 5 pin board interconnector socket and plug * A length of 5-pin and a length of 8-pin ribbon wire * A label maker (optional) * A bench drill or a hand drill and a 2mm and 3mm drill * Enamelled copper wire (same as in previous steps) * Your favorite soldering equipment Description: * Let´s start with a plan (photo 1) - if things look too confusing, don´t panic ;-). Just wire all buttons to i* ports and all LEDs to o* ports, observing that we are interchanging some pins with the "command" module on the right and the "transport" module which we yet have to build on the left. Actually I may have switched a few pins (also on the "Command" module from the last step) in comparison to the plans, so I´ve attached a current MBSEQ_HW.V4, it lists all DIN/DOUT mappings so far. * Lay out and solder the tactile switches and solder the 10-pin board interconnector sockets as shown in photo 2. * Mark some drill points on the veroboard and drill the board and the temporary construction base with a 2mm drill, then with a 3mm drill. Install M3 screws into the temporary construction base and fasten them with M3 nuts as shown in photo 3. * Label the IN/OUT ports and start to bend and solder two duo-LEDs for each tactile switch (photo 4). * Install a 5-pin board interconnector socket on the right of the control surface board and wire the pins as shown in photo 1. I only soldered the "green" pins of the duo LEDs. When all components are installed, compare with photo 5. * Build a board interconnection cable coming from the "command" module. Splice the ribbon wire and make one ribbon wire a little bit longer, so you can use it to twist and stabilize the cable (photo 6). * Install an 8-pin ribbon wire for interconnection to the transport module on the left side of the board (photo 7) and wire as shown in photo 1. * When all is finished, install the new board and have fun - it took me quite some time to figure a good key mapping, i´d suggest you experiment a little (photo 8). * I could not resist to capture an "at night" shot (photo 9). The SEQ rocks - I currently find myself playing with the unfinished unit (attached to a keyboard and the mb6582) more than finishing it, it really is powerful! MBSEQ_HW.V4.TXT
  21. It is always great to see a newborn MB-6582 :-)
  22. 6581 = ein bisschen buggy, etwas verrauschter, dreckigerer Sound, Filter-Resonanz nahezu nicht vorhanden, wird etwas wärmer und braucht 12V 8580/6582 = besserere Filter und Resonanz, saubererer Sound, kühlere chips, 9V Eindrucksvoller Vergleichstest von TK ist hier: http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_v1.html (Suche nach "This example demonstrates the new filter driver of software engine v1.5 which improves the quality of the 8580 significantly. First you will hear the 6581, thereafter the 8580!") meine 5 cents: Du brauchst "nur" 8x 8580 (z.b. aus alten C64-II) und damit die PSU-option A und den Feedback Mod Ich finde acht gleiche SIDs wichtig, denn wenn Du mehrstimmigen Sound z.B. mit ´nem SEQ machen willst ist jeder weitere gleichklingende SID-Stereokanal Gold wert, oder mit anderen Worten: einfach geil ;-) Ciao, Peter
  23. has just ordered real ebony wood for the seq v4 cs enclosure :) eco-controlled harvesting, ofc

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Antix

      Antix

      Dont be scared from hard work...more work more satisfaction

    3. jojjelito

      jojjelito

      Don't chicken out on the ebony. It's a real treat once it's done. Now about some real ivory... I kid I kid.

    4. Hawkeye
  24. Hey ho, If the same sid sounds fine in the second slot, there is likely to be a soldering problem somewhere and not a problem with the psu or the used power-option or the sid itself... On this behalf, hi-res pics of the board top and bottom would be great ;-) Bye, Peter
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