Hawkeye

desolder them, one by one and test if it fits after each one - it is not nice work and you´ve got to be a little bit careful, but it will work in the end :) - if you don´t care about the switches, you can also cut their legs from the upperside of the board and then use your soldering iron from the backside and the vaccum pump from the upperside to clean the holes one by one, sucking out the remaining legs - this would be nicer to the pcb and way faster, but both methods will work in the end.

I like the color scheme of the box and the frontpanel... are you sure the tactile switches are the problem? Especially with those nice flat head LEDs it can be a little bit hard to fit them in their proper places... If you are positive about the tactile switches, you can desolder them one by one by using a vacuum pump and only quick heating up with the soldering iron and then sucking away the solder - smashs really good pcbs should be able to withstand that without solder pads coming off...

I use them quite regularly, dude :) at least to play "Hawkeye", "IO", "Arkanoid II" and "Katakis" - any of these games beats Crysis hands-down :-)

they were both in the c128 tip - most versions of the c64-c with a "new keyboard" (look at the graphical character symbols on the keyboard to see the difference) have the 8580... but not all... i ripped 9 of them and still feel guilty about it ;-)

do you have any c64 psus lying around from your ebay orders? If you are concerned about the heat, you could "copy" the power supply section of the mb6582... you would only need one c64 power brick and one voltage regulator for that - but i am too much a hardware noob to explain you how it works exactly :-)

yes, then it is getting hot because of the high voltage difference - you can always install a larger heat sink or use a 9v psu - or leave it as it is, as they can handle some heat, as i know from my vfd experiments :-)

congrats - looks like straight from back to the future - i wouldn´t recommend posting pics of 8580s to the public nowadays as there are reportedly crimes being commited to get them :-) what voltage are you feeding the 7805? don´t know about the oscs, i don´t hear them in the mb6582...

whew, if that is true what will be the price per knob then? methinks wilba takes more in jan 2011 than waldorf for the full year :)

lets agree to bitch on customs, shall we :) for my part i hate them guys... c´mon its 2011 and only a small world :-) they should concentrate on taxing aliens err australians :-) muahar

8580 = 6582 + 1998, observing that nothing much happened in 1998 :) 1999 on the other hand... :-)

Sorry for double posting, but after a good nights sleep... Regarding the scrub-like tempo button - would you wait on the implementation? I´d really like to have a dedicated "pushable" (that´s why the datawheel is not good for it) tempo rotary encoder and am also willing to produce "proper code", if you are interested in accepting it into your codebase ;-). Greets and best regards, Peter

Hi kogz, am a newbie in this field, too, but I think you can change the default port from USB to OUT1 in the MIDI Configuration. Regarding the GP button - it is most likely a bad solder point - trace again with a beeper - if you built the control surface on veroboard instead of a PCB, rewire the button. Greets, Peter

This really is lowest-priority, as not too many people have those buttons, I guess... The right button works fine, the left button does not work in these menus: Edit, Mixer, Track Events, Track Mode, Track Direction, Track ClockDivider, Track Length, Track Groove, Track Triggers, Track Morphing, Random Generator, Record, Track Fx: *, Global Fx: *, BPM Selection, Options, Save Pattern, Metronome, MIDI Configuration, probably SysEx, CV Configuration, Ethernet (OSC) Navigating "cursor style" in the normal edit menu is probably a nice alternative for minor step adjustments. That is great! Thanks! The interesting thing is, the TAP_TEMPO_LED is lit, when tap tempo is pressed. But nothing happens in the displays, also no speed change after pressing it 5 times in a row or so... Bye and thanks for this great piece of hard- and software :-) Peter

As it is an investment for life, you can also spend ca 10 bucks more and get one like this: http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=6844;PROVID=2402 very heavy quality and you can first insert the crimp plugs (it will lock the plug, you can put the tool down) and then insert the cable and press - with increased power as the handle is angled...

Step 26: Creating the "Menu" Control Surface Module Parts Used: * 1 pcs stable (epoxy) vector board 16cm x 10cm with soldering pads on both sides (same as in previous steps) * 13pcs tactile switches and button caps (same as in previous steps) * 12pcs duo leds (same as in previous steps) * 1pcs ALPS STEC12E07 rotary encoder (without push button) (Reichelt) * 1pcs ALPS large rotary encoder jog wheel (45mm) (Conrad) * 4pcs 10-pin pcb interconnector plug and angular socket * 12mm M3 screws * M3 nuts * A bench drill or a hand drill and a 2mm and 3mm drill * Enamelled copper wire (same as in previous steps) * Your favorite soldering equipment * A hot glue gun (optional) * A label maker (optional) Description: * As with the step sequencer modules, cut the vector board to a height of 82mm. 32 inner vertical grid points must be fully available. * Let´s plan the layout of this control surface module (photo 1). * I´ve attached my current MBSEQ_HW.V4 for your reference, in there you also find the corresponding pinouts of the DIN/DOUT cables from the core. * Click the tactile switches into the vector board and test component placement (photo 2). * The rotary encoder shaft is a bit too long, cut away about 1mm of the 6mm shaft (photo 3). * Solder the components and the LEDs. You can use a bit of hot glue to fasten the encoder a little bit better. Use a label maker to label the two DIN ports (i7 and i8) and the DOUT port (o5) (photo 4) * Mark the drill areas and drill the vector board and the temporary construction base with a 2mm and 3mm drill (photo 5) * Insert 12mm M3 screws into the temporary construction base and fasten them with M3 nuts (photo 6) * Crimp all interconnection plugs - i7, i8, o5 to the sequencer core and the left-sided 10-pin plug which goes into the right step sequencer cs board. See photo 1 for the cabling pinout of this plug. * Wire as planned in photo 1. The STEC12E07 encoder is wired just as the STEC12E08 encoders (use DETENTED3 mode in MBSEQ_HW.V4). * When all is done, turn on and enjoy. I´ve made a quick video which shows the power of push-accelerated encoder buttons (at ca 00:25) and the insanely quick update speed of VFDs compared to cheap LCDs and yes, my leg still hurts because of what happened @ 00:13 :-). MBSEQ_HW.V4.TXT

Hi Thorsten! Great work on the MBSEQ V4 - my build process just allowed me to visit all the menus for the first time - really great stuff in there :-) "First-time-user" impressions: * when pressing "exit", while being in the menu I would have expected to get back to edit mode - and not to enter the currently active menu item - this is not important at all, there is an "edit" button for that, but it would be nice for me (even when in deeper menus, press exit a few times to "get out"). * the left and right buttons (i have added them in a cursor-key layout additionally to the up and down buttons) do work in some areas, in some they don´t - e.g. in the menu all is fine - in the edit mode i can use only the right button to get to the next step - also not important. * scrub is cool :-) * would it be possible to get a "tempo" button just in the way of scrub? Just a shortcut to the bpm menu and selecting the current speed as long as it is pressed? This would be very cool for live tempo fades ;-) (i am aware of the very nice tempo preset button and page) * the "tap tempo" button did not work for me somehow (beta33) Otherwise: can´t get the smile off my face - I have added a youtube "first startup" video for your reference, also demonstrating the power of "temporary fast" (FAST2) starting at 00:25 and the insanely quick update speed of VFDs compared to cheap LCDs. Have a happy new year! Peter

No worries, no offense, really :-) It´s just that phunk is doing it and I understand the complexities and work involved in a large bulk order - if phunk wants to do a large one, consider me in. Why phunk? Because he is based in Germany (= less shipping around and less taxes for us) and has already contacted Balthasar :) - and also I want to visit his studio and fetch the knobs there :) Have a good new year! Peter

sorry, consider me out, Ingebret - will do a small order with phunk and Phil.

wow - i thought these were out of production - if anyone can get hold of 15 black-transparent ones (863063) i´ll take a bunch :) bye and have a great new year, peter

yes, pictures please... and don´t forget to blame nILS ;-) did you use the suggested tactile switches with a head diameter of 3.0 mm? did you solder them one by one checking alignment every time, as suggested in the tut? if one is not inserted fully (need to apply quite some force) it may be the case, that it is not 90° perpendicular to the pcb and the button cap therefore blocks somewhere. PS: if the holes are too small for any reason it is easy to redrill them to larger holes or complain @fpe

Wilba, what I always wanted to know - how did you have the foresight, that "temporary fast" is coming ;-) ? Greetz to downunder and have a good new year! (Btw. the alps stec12e08 are working very nicely when depressed and rotated and are relatively cheap in germany, 1.90eur per piece)

You can save a little bit of money by ordering the core32 parts directly from a german electronics store - but smash has them sorted very nicely, so it is a time vs cost tradeoff... I would suggest, that you buy from him, as he does all the heavy lifting and provides PCBs in very good quality.

The different pinout is interesting... thanks for your feedback. edit: I looked at the datasheet: http://www2.produkti...R_STEC12E07.pdf on page 5 it says that "C" is the middle pin and on page 3 you can see that "C" is "ground" and is switching pins "A" and "B", when the knob is turned. So this is somehow strange - but if it works for you - never change a running system ;-)

Hi maigre, also think of the possibility of encoder value entry acceleration (increased speed of change, no need to turn endlessly for larger changes), when it is depressed and turned which is a very very nice feature of the elektron (machinedrum etc) boxes and which is very intuitive - up to an amount, that you want to push down any encoder you encounter in real life just to "speed up things", nearly broke the car radio of my government last time ;-) TK has added support for "temporary fast" in one of the latest betas after my request - (thx again :-)). IMHO it is the best use for the push buttons of the gp encoders. Bye, Peter