Search the Community

After too long time, finally a new track: Only SIDs make it possible (no other synths used for this one), listen loud, plz! :) Many greets, Peter

Hi there, I recently bought a used sammichSID equipped with two 8580 SIDs, MIOS 1.9g, running MIDIbox SID V2.044. The problem I'm facing is that only one SID seems to be recognized. So within the ensemble-menu I can only choose SID 1. Also I get only audio-output by one SID. So I have the following questions: - does the Midibox software perfom any check to determine if the SID may be broken and "disables" it in the frontend-selection? - is there any way to perform a check or debug this issue? - if the SID is broken: would I be able to recognize it in the menue if I would swap both SIDs against each other to check if one is broken? So that the ensemble-screen would say *2** instead of 1***? - software issue? - am I completely missing something, like that the behaviour of the sammichSID differs from the "normal" MIDIbox SID? Any help or hint would be appreciated :-) Thanks, Chris

Hi! Long time no speak. So, I plugged in my Sammich after a 3 year break (I know, I'm sorry), and there's an issue. There is only some odd low level sounds. At one point I actually heard something like the SID, but it disappeared. On opening up the box I found that the SIDS are REALLY hot when powered, like they burn to the touch. Any ideas, or starting points for investigation? It's a pair of 8580's, 1A linear PSU, and it was working before. The mods are the potentiometer mods to A0-A4. Many thanks!

Hi forum, I am planning to use one or more 8580 sid's for my first MB project. Several are offered on *bay at around 30-40 euros either as single chips or (presumably functional) inside a late version c64. Are there any alternative source you guy's would share - one with fair price and good track record? Preferably inside Europe. thanks

I am selling my sammichSID with two 8580 SIDs installed. The case is black. The LEDs and display are green. The display is a low-power type, so it's not quite as bright as some others, but it is easily readable in any lighting. It actually looks much better than in my photos. The filters on both SIDs work as they should. The painting of the logo and text on the case is pretty clean. This was my first kit, so the soldering isn't professional-looking, but it's not bad at all. There are two minor issues which the buyer should know, neither of which affect the operation in any way, provided you have no intention of opening the unit up and modifying it from its current configuration. First issue: This only affects the unit when the jumper is set for a high power display. With the low-power display installed now, it is a non-issue. When using a high-power display. The current into the base of the transistor that drives the display backlight is not limited. This causes the transistor to get fried within a few minutes of the first power up. At a time when I knew nothing about electronics Wilba was very patient in helping me troubleshoot the problem, but in the end, it never got corrected. The base resistor is the correct value, so it seems there is a short somewhere. Since this was my first kit, the most likely culprit would be my soldering, but I have looked at the board over and over, and I can't find any problems in that area, so I can't completely rule out the possibility that it is a problem with the board itself. Eventually, I soldered in a socket to to hold the transistor since constantly resoldering it every time one gets fried would damage the pads. I recommend just leaving it as it is and using the low-power display, but if anyone wants to try to fix the high power display setting, I can send a few extra BC337s and an extra green display. Second issue: Not really much of an issue at all, but for the sake of full disclosure I think I should say it. During the course of troubleshooting the first issue, I removed one of the SIDs, and one of the pins came off. (I don't remember which SID, but the pin was at the corner, so 1, 14, 15, or 28.) I soldered a piece of a resistor lead to it, and it fits into the socket fine and makes a good connection. It doesn't affect operation at all. You can't even see it. It's just something to be aware of if you need to take one of the SIDs out of the socket (which I don't recommend). In short: It looks good and works perfectly as it is, but I don't recommend trying to change anything if you don't have to. I'm willing to ship anywhere, but shipping will be from Japan, so depending on where you are, it could be a considerable amount. To save shipping fees, and hassle, I'm not including an AC adapter unless the buyer is in Japan and requests to have it. I can accept money orders and wire transfer for sure. I'm currently in the process of making a paypal account and relearning how to use it since I closed my account years ago. I think I can probably take paypal though. I'm hoping to get 60,000 yen for it. As of today that is almost exactly 500 U.S. dollars. If you're interested, send me a message and we can work out the details.

Hey all, I have an MB-6582 with 6 x 6582a chips since i cannot for the life of me find where i placed the other 2. Is it possible/safe to build/run it with 6 of them in and have 3 stereo or would it be easier to put in 4 and run them all in mono. If it wont work with 6 can i run it with 6 x 6582a and combine it with 2 x 8580's that i have laying around or would this totally mess the whole thing up. I know i cant combine it with the 6581's since they run on different voltages but just wanted to see if its possible to run with blanks/mixed first. I have already tried searching and although this probably exists somewhere i couldnt find the right search combination to find an answer. Any help is greatly appreciated. All the best, Nick