the beginnings of a fm
#1
Posted 18 February 2008 - 23:01
#2
Posted 19 February 2008 - 03:08
#3
Posted 19 February 2008 - 06:11
Also the interconnections to the Pic board have pins, I think people usually recommend direct connections in place of the pins. But I can tell you that it will make your life easier.
#4
Posted 19 February 2008 - 08:58
#5
Posted 19 February 2008 - 13:24
stryd_one: i know i can, but i need to resize them. I'll also get a new dyndns account, so that i will actually be able to see the pics in the preview.
#6
Posted 20 February 2008 - 04:31


I also finished the din board today. Thats about all i can do for now, as i'm waiting for pcbs from smashtv. Anyway, I need to start ordering parts for the cs.
#7
Posted 20 February 2008 - 16:34
#8
Posted 20 February 2008 - 20:04
#9
Posted 21 February 2008 - 19:09
Yes....I'm working on a full report on the error and some macro photos of how to easily fix it now.so, is there an easy way to fix this?
I will post the whole mess this afternoon here, and edit my OPL info page to match.
The short answer: This trace feeds a test pin (TST1) 5v used only in the manufacturing process for the chip. I'm wondering if the module works fine with that pin left floating/unconnected for most people? (since the error has gone un-noticed for so long)
Obviously I'll be tossing these in the bin and creating a new layout with TST1 tied high as called for in the datasheet and correct the legends to match the official schematic and -possibly- changing it over to a CORE sized double sided layout with easier interconnect to the CORE.
This was not a dirty photoplot at the PCB fab etc....The .brd file I fed the CAM processor in Eagle shows a normal solid trace, but the gerber files the CAM processor kicked out have this dashed line.....Most likely the reason e-testing on these did not catch the issue, since the e-test files are derived from the gerber layout. :(
To be continued later today......
My apologies for the error, hopefully it has not caused anyone to question their sanity :-\
Best regards
SmashTV
#10
Posted 22 February 2008 - 23:30

First scrape away the a bit of the green soldermask to expose the copper underneath. A hobby knife works well for this, but almost anything with a straight edge will work, like a small flat-tip screwdriver. The soldermask is brittle and will scrape away easily.

Grab a cut resistor lead and clip it down to stretch between the pads.

Tin one pad with a small amount of solder.

Hold the jumper wire in place with pliers heat the wire with the iron just long enough for it to reflow the solder on the pad. Let it cool for a minute.

Heat other end and just long enough to flow some solder into the connection.
At this point you can use a small screwdriver to hold it down while you clean up the soldering/flux....as you can see I solder like a drunken monkey so you might not need as much cleanup as I do.
I'm working on a correction rev now, to be run asap.
Best regards
SmashTV
#11
Posted 23 February 2008 - 00:00
#12
Posted 23 February 2008 - 00:55
smash: Sorry for kinda going off-topic a bit, but: What camera did you use for those pictures? Those are some hard-core close-ups
Yeh!!
My 2C: Do you realllly need to throw these out and start over? I think that if someone's building an FM they will have enough skill to solder a bridge.
#13
Posted 23 February 2008 - 01:32
#14
Posted 23 February 2008 - 01:51
#15
Posted 23 February 2008 - 03:19
#16
Guest_n00b_*
Posted 23 February 2008 - 05:26
#17
Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:09
#18
Posted 25 February 2008 - 20:21
Fuji S700, stock lens, set to auto+super macro, lens ring touching the board (I cropped that shadow out of these).smash: Sorry for kinda going off-topic a bit, but: What camera did you use for those pictures? Those are some hard-core close-ups
Jury still out on that one, If I can make a good enough explanation of how to correct it they might not be re-tasked as business cards, but I would really like to fix this and the differences in part designation between my board and the official release.My 2C: Do you realllly need to throw these out and start over? I think that if someone's building an FM they will have enough skill to solder a bridge.
LMAO ;D ;DSmashTV, kindly please send me a "cut resistor lead" as I do not have this part, thank you.
Best regards
SmashTV
#19
Posted 26 February 2008 - 04:50
My 2C: Do you realllly need to throw these out and start over?
YOU BUY FO ONLY 2 DOLLA!
"CHEAP-CHEAP!"
http://ie.youtube.co...h?v=wdMDWEpbrHU
SmashTV, kindly please send me a "cut resistor lead" as I do not have this part, thank you.

One for the midibox hall of fame!
@ napierzaza
You have Eagle eyes (no pun intended :P) man! A great asset to the community.
It took me a good while to even spot the broken trace in the pic after you alerted us to it.
It reminds of the scene in Platoon, where theres a fox hole right in front of Charlie Sheens eyes,
and he cant see it, so Alias spots it out for him.
Youve got that "500 yard stare man!"
@syamajala
Thanks for taking the time to do this thread, the Midibox FM doesnt get much attention,
with the dominance of the MB Sid, its real helpful what youre doing.
#20
Posted 26 February 2008 - 18:26
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