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MB-6582 panels...


Doug Wellington
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Umm...  To be clear, yes, it is a hole going all the way through the panel for a screw...  There is one in each of the four corners where the panel bolts to the case...

So basically you would have to bolt your own panels differently?

Or just dirll holes in them too?

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So basically you would have to bolt your own panels differently?

Or just dirll holes in them too?

I'm learning how to use a CAD program, so hopefully I can upload a diagram soon.  Basically, the full-on Wilba panel has all the fasteners attached to the back of the front panel - nothing shows up on the outside of the case.  The standard PT-10 panel has four holes already drilled in it so that the screws that attach the front panel to the case show on the outside.  All the rest of the fasteners will be attached to the back of the PT-10 front panel just like the Wilba panel.

Does that make sense?

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I'm learning how to use a CAD program, so hopefully I can upload a diagram soon.  Basically, the full-on Wilba panel has all the fasteners attached to the back of the front panel - nothing shows up on the outside of the case.  The standard PT-10 panel has four holes already drilled in it so that the screws that attach the front panel to the case show on the outside.  All the rest of the fasteners will be attached to the back of the PT-10 front panel just like the Wilba panel.

Does that make sense?

That makes perfect sense man!  :)

PT-10 panel = visible screws.

Wilba panel = no visible screws.

Not really a problem, especially if we replaced the screws with black ones ourselves to keep them discrete.

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My plan is to not use any JB Weld at all, regardless of its merits.  I'm using pressed in studs in the corners and pressed in standoffs in the other spots.  Wilba is going to give me a CAD file with locations for the standoffs - we won't need to use as many pressed in standoffs to accomplish the same thing as all the studs we needed with the JB Weld...

Don't get sucked into bugfight's anti-JB-Weld FUD campaign!

To be perfectly clear: When I made the prototype MB-6582, I glued more spacers to the panel than were required because I was pessimistic about the sticking strength of JB-Weld. I then didn't take out mount holes when doing the final PCB design, and then didn't use any less when building MB-6582 units (mine and others), I just put all 23 in there, even though 10 would work just as well. Everyone has had the option of putting less than 23 if they wanted, but now that Doug's going to the trouble of stamping standoffs into the panel, and they might be $1 each, it makes sense to optimise.

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Doug's going to the trouble of stamping standoffs into the panel

Does this mean we can solder CS components (minus LEDs probably) to the CS PCB before having a panel? (Since, if I understand what you're saying correctly, we won't need an empty PCB to mark where the standoffs go).

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Does this mean we can solder CS components (minus LEDs probably) to the CS PCB before having a panel? (Since' date=' if I understand what you're saying correctly, we won't need an empty PCB to mark where the standoffs go).

[/quote']

Yes, you could solder CS components except LEDs before you have a panel from Doug which has standoffs attached.

If you ever need to mark where the standoffs go, you don't need the CS PCB itself, it's possible to use a 1:1 scale printout instead.

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I recently ordered a PT-10 and would love to have nice panels too :)

Doug, i understand you are willing to ship me a set of panels even though i live in the EU, Denmark??

And i have to ask.. because i'm not sure i get it quite right... Wilba's design has no through-holes, but have spacers glued to the backside? And these spacers are going to hold the CS PCB in the right height also?? The reason i ask is that i don't want to end up having to improvise any creative stuff to get the CS running properly - I'm not as hardcore as you guys so i need to take care to do it clean and easy  :-\

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Yes, I'm willing to ship to Europe.  I've heard that some packages to Europe have been lost, so I would prefer to ship with a method that will provide a tracking number and delivery confirmation...

The original MB-6582 panel design uses glued on spacers, but I have changed the design to have pressed in standoffs.  This will add a few dollars to the cost of the panel, but it will save all of you assemblers a lot of time and hassle.  All you'll have to do is attach the pcb to the standoffs with some screws...

Please be patient with me, I am actually buying a cnc mill and a stud insertion press to do this.  It will be cheaper for all of us for me to do it this way, but I have to wait a short time to receive these things and get them set up...

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Yes, I'm willing to ship to Europe.  I've heard that some packages to Europe have been lost, so I would prefer to ship with a method that will provide a tracking number and delivery confirmation...

Thats fine with me ;)

The original MB-6582 panel design uses glued on spacers, but I have changed the design to have pressed in standoffs.  This will add a few dollars to the cost of the panel, but it will save all of you assemblers a lot of time and hassle.  All you'll have to do is attach the pcb to the standoffs with some screws...

Sounds even better for me than the spacers!

Please be patient with me, I am actually buying a cnc mill and a stud insertion press to do this.  It will be cheaper for all of us for me to do it this way, but I have to wait a short time to receive these things and get them set up...

Thats really awesome!! I will join the list then.. and i'm in absolutely no hurry  8)

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The original MB-6582 panel design uses glued on spacers, but I have changed the design to have pressed in standoffs.  This will add a few dollars to the cost of the panel, but it will save all of you assemblers a lot of time and hassle.  All you'll have to do is attach the pcb to the standoffs with some screws...

And you can do this with a shipped panel to you from the PT-10 case?

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There is no welding.  A hole is drilled part way into the surface and then the stud or standoff is pressed into the hole with a lot of force.  Due to the shape of the end of the stud/standoff, it forces the metal to flow into a shape that retains it.  The hole needs to be .043" deep, and can be used in .062" panel.  They are fairly robust - for example, it requires 890 Newtons to pull an M3 standoff out of 5052 aluminum...

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wow, that's a lot of figs.

nobody, and i mean nobody, can eat 890 newtons...

Hmm, really ... you mean pr/day or what :) - rumors are heard that 1billion fig newtons are consumed each year in the US http://www.foodreference.com/html/ffignewtons.html

Ontopic: 890 newtons sounds just fine - when i tweak knobs and pots the max strain is about 700 newtons anyways ;) so i guess these standoffs would be excellent despite the massive soundpressure level that a MB-6582 will deliver!!

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These studs are pretty standard in a lot of electronic equipment, where no hole is to be made in the chassis.

I used these quite a bit when designing hermetically sealed shielding enclosures; they provide great advantages in the manufacturing process, obvisouly don't rupture the seal of an enclosure, and are robust and unobtrusive.

They are also used in 19" rack gear, where front panel screw heads would occupy too much area, and be unattractive.

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I was thinking about maybe getting my own panels laser cut and engraved but now I see you are adding these studs to the panels there is no doubt that your panels will be much better, that will save alot of hassle, especially becuase I would have to buy JB Weld from overseas as living in the a$$ end of the world means we dont get common products like this, I was probably going to have to use araldite or something.

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living in the a$$ end of the world means we dont get common products like this, I was probably going to have to use araldite or something.

Hi Bleeps,

Which a$$ end country are you in? If you are referring to Australia, I saw JB Weld at a Mitre 10 hardware store in Perth a couple of days ago.

edit- Fot those who may not know, Australia's former Prime Minister Paul Keating referred to Australia as the arse end of the world.

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OK, I added some more options to the group buy page.

You can choose whether you want the separating lines to be red or blue, plus you can now add in an order for a PT-10 case.  If you get a PT-10 case, please let me know if you want the standard PT-10 panel with the mounting holes in the corner, or whether you prefer a "Wilba" panel that has no mounting holes showing through the front panel...

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