MB-6582 CS cabling

[m00dawg]

This does not relate to the waiting list or anything. I actually had a simple, and maybe elementary question about connecting the front panel PCB to the base PCB. I noticed in the pictures on the wiki, that the cables have been directly soldered to each board. For some reason, I have an aversion to soldering the ribbon cables over using headers, but was having trouble determining from the pictures if this was possible? Just a mild curiosity and wanted to know ahead of time what to expect.

Thanks again for putting all this together guys!

[stryd_one]

I don't think there's room in the case for headers...

[cimo]

search for Jimp aka bugfight 90 degrees dil header system on his mb6582 so far it s the smartest solution i ve seen

Simone

[lief138]

http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9798.msg76472.html#msg76472

[Wilba]

search for Jimp aka bugfight 90 degrees dil header system on his mb6582 so far it s the smartest solution i ve seen

Simone

What? My solution is the smartest! :P

For what it's worth, there's nothing wrong with soldering those 100mil spacing cables, it's a very stable solution, the joints are not stressed and the overall effect is like a hinge. You can open the case as many times as you like and not worry about the connections getting broken. I only recommend using headers if you have a specific need to remove the control surface (i.e. you plan to make a new control surface, or use a different case). If you plan to build a "stock" MB-6582 and never open it again, then why bother with headers?

[cimo]

never open it again

hilarious[me=cimo]slaps Wilba in the shoulder[/me]

[Jack]

Hi!

Does anybody knows a good source for the 100mil spacing cable in Europe(Germnay)?

I found it on Conrad (606162-F0).

Best Regards

Jack

[Wilba]

Can you update the wiki with this new information?

[DJ Stevo]

I'm hacking on this myself at the moment and I can't seem to find a source for this sort of cabling outside of some mega-large (read: 500 feet or greater) spools offered to me by Mouser.  Has anyone had any luck with an American supplier, and if so, can you point me to them?  Thanks!

[bugfight]

haven't tried these in 6582, but they worked great in the x0xb0x:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=d3OAIvvHo4uDFEllXEu8ng%3d%3d

there's a 2 inch variant too, non-stock at mouser but here they are at digikey:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=WM08-02A-ND

[Smithy]

Can you update the wiki with this new information?

Done

[m00dawg]

haven't tried these in 6582, but they worked great in the x0xb0x:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=d3OAIvvHo4uDFEllXEu8ng%3d%3d

I know this topic is hugely old, but has anyone used these? The Mouser product info has very little information but it looks like it will work well - I'm just worried about the length. The spec sheet (which is linked off molex.com) says this is 6 inches. That's way too long to buy these for a quick pre-cut solution I'm guessing?

I tried using the regular 50mil cable and it's a pretty huge pain to cut the wire the same length and seems like using something closer to the flat cable Wilba mention would be easiest.

[lucem]

Well, I didn't check the mouser stuff you pointed at, but I used headers and connectors in my 6582, as is to be seen here:

http://users.sr-iserlohn.de/mb6582/

Although I got to admit, I should better have gone for the 90 degree version, with the ones I used it is quite tight within the case...

[m00dawg]

Oh wow I hadn't even though of using those type of connectors - that's pretty clever! How tight is tight though? Does the case close and nothing is, say, clamped down over a solder point?

I had thought about using the standard single-row crimp terminals on both the mainboard and CS. I think there is room enough for that but I would have to be fairly creative about how I positioned the connectors such that I reasoned it wasn't worth it.

[m00dawg]

So I ended up going with the 2 inch cables from Digikey that were posted above (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=WM08-02A-ND). Works like a champ! I haven't yet put the PT-10 case fully together, and I think it may be a bit snug. Still, it make it MUCH easier than having to cut and strip cables on my own.

Just thought I'd share. This is the route I recommend going, although I'll fully confirm that with a working MB-6582 :)

[m00dawg]

Well...turns out that the 2-inch cables, while convenient to hook up, eventually broke off after repeated opening and closings of the lid (while I was diagnosing issues). One of my problems was that I didn't have the cabling flush against either board - the gap is where the cabling broke.

I ended up simply soldering individual wires to the control surface and mainboard. It was a huge pain but the really nice thing is that if one cable gets pulled out, I can just resolder it without too much difficulty.

Connecting the control surface to the mainboard has been, by far, the most challenging aspect of building the MB-6852. Everything else has pretty much been cake. In any case, I thought I would share my experiences since I didn't want anyone to assume using the 2-inch cabling is a faultless solution. I think it will work, but, so far, seems like the best approach would be to use the detachable solution Bugfight created, possibly using individual cable (as opposed to the standard .100" ribbon cable).

*shrug*

[Wilba]

Sorry to hear of your troubles with the cabling...

I should have done a better job of explaining my process, with photos... alas too many things to do and not enough time.

The ribbon cable I use is tough stuff... the insulation is quite stiff and the wires are thick and practically solid, as it appears like they've been dipped in solder before being put in the ribbon. As such, you need to pre-bend them 90 degrees and solder them flat. I've attached a picture of how I did it... this is TK's box but I did the same technique on my original MB-6582 and that's been opened and closed many times after I finished it!

[m00dawg]

Man that looks pro! Mine connections, well, do not look like that :) That picture really helps explain things. I think if I had done it closer to that the first time, it probably would not be as much of an issue. Part of my problem, I'll admit, is likely speeding through the process (I think the Wiki even says to take your time :P). The other problem is that, while the Digikey cables might be close, I don't think they are exactly the same?

I did end up liking my solution fairly well. It's messy and certainly ranks high on the ugly factor but, once I fix the remaining issues, I think it will end up working well, although it's certainly not a solution I would like to show-off :)

The fact that I had so much trouble with connecting the control surface can be taken many ways, but I would say if that's the only issues I had, then the MB-6582 as a whole is a pretty kick-ass design. I really didn't run into any major issues with the rest of the build (just a few cold solder joints and a short caused by excess solder).

Curious, though, if you plan on making any changes to the MB-6582 for the STM32 (when it's ready) and if that might include making any changes to the control surface wiring? Doesn't look like there's any room leftover on the control-surface board, but I really like the sammichSID design of putting all the shift registers on the control surface itself. I was actually going to do that myself with my old design (before I opted, happily, to go with the MB-6582).

[TheAncientOne]

One additional trick, once it's all soldered and done, run a bead of hot glue along the solder end line. This si used in a lot of commercial products, and helps prevent breaks due to flexing. I often do it with LCD's.

[m00dawg]

Holy crap that's a really good idea!!! I'll have to resolder a few cables (since I started soldering on the bottom of the control surface so I didn't have to keep removing it from the panel) but that can be done as a weekend job.

I assume just a standard craft hot glue gun and regular glue would work (I assume that's totally non conductive)?

[Labelwhore]

I assume just a standard craft hot glue gun and regular glue would work (I assume that's totally non conductive)?

Yep, I've used the same technique on a lot of projects.

[nebula]

One additional trick, once it's all soldered and done, run a bead of hot glue along the solder end line. This si used in a lot of commercial products, and helps prevent breaks due to flexing.

I like silicone for this purpose.

[Smithy]

The ribbon cable I use is tough stuff... the insulation is quite stiff and the wires are thick and practically solid, as it appears like they've been dipped in solder before being put in the ribbon.

Wilba could you please confirm which of the following 4 cables on this page it is:

Molex Linky

They appear to be stranded and tinned from your pic,

and the diameter doesn't look so narrow,

so my bet is on either 24 AWG, or 22 AWG, stranded and tinned.

Unfortunately this is the only cable mouser have stocked in a sane quantity:

http://ie.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=25001-0802virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-25001-0802

Would you recommend it, if i cant get the tinned one?

Edited February 2, 2010 by Smithy

[Wilba]

The mouser one looks OK... right length, pitch... I think someone else has used these before.

[Snoozr]

I got these and they seem too long. The case does not close easily. I tried folding them back over the Base PCB but the wire is so stiff that it will not bend easily. I don't want to desolder these because I already had to desolder the pads on the Base PCB once before due to misreading the instructions. Any tips anyone?