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MB-SEQ V3/V4 Control Surface PCB and matching case


Wilba
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Hey!

I am new to this forum and currently planning to build a Midibox Seq V4. Read here and on ucapps and found out that Wilbas PCB + frontpanel are great!

I saw the plans at http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_seq ... but one question remains:

Is the layout for the PCB (CAD, Eagle, ...) available so that one could make the PCB by his self (respectively giving it to a professional PCB-manufacturer)?

greets,

Bruce

Edited by Bruce
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Hey!

I am new to this forum and currently planning to build a Midibox Seq V4. Read here and on ucapps and found out that Wilbas PCB + frontpanel are great!

I saw the plans at http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_seq ... but one question remains:

Is the layout for the PCB (CAD, Eagle, ...) available so that one could make the PCB by his self (respectively giving it to a professional PCB-manufacturer)?

greets,

Bruce

As far as I know, the answer to that is no. You would have to wait for another bulk order or buy one from someone that wants to sell his or hers (self plug warning!!! check out the flea market).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wilba, I'm in the process of converting your DXF for the 3mm black acrylic at Ponoko... Any tips? I'll post the SVG here when done.

How would you suggest to do the lcd window? Is the idea to allow the surface of the screen closer to the surface of the panel? Or could I just do a plain rectangular cutout in the panel, the correct size to allow the LCD a flat surface to press up against?

Thanks :)

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IF I was doing it with Ponoko, I'd get clear 3mm acrylic cut out to "snap fit" into the panel cutout, like my sammichSID design.

As long as the corners have a good size radius, it's pretty easy to make it snap in (OK, a little fiddly sometimes but I've done it over 100 times without a problem).

The laser burns away 0.2mm of material for 3mm acrylic, so to make the cutout and the window the exact same size, you need to make the window bigger than the cutout by exactly 0.2mm all around (including radius of corners!).

Just so you're totally clear, let's say you want a 40mm x 40mm cutout in the panel. You make the shape in the design 39.8mm x 39.8mm, because the laser will burn away an extra 0.1mm on the outer edge of the path in the design, making it BIGGER.

To make a window fit exactly 40mm x 40mm, you need to make the shape 40.2mm x 40.2mm in the design, as the laser will burn away an extra 0.1mm on the edge, making it SMALLER.

The same thing needs to be done on the radius of the corner. The radius of the window needs to be 0.2mm bigger than the radius of the cutout.

You can think of it in 0.1mm differences - both the cutout and the window need to be offset by 0.1mm in opposite directions so they'll match the desired real size after cutting.

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I thought your displays were blue?

This is the tone of blue i have -

buchla.jpg

But it seemed too dark against the black metal?

Its not that much fun (you have to scrub with solvents and a toothbush for some time) but if you ever feel real strongly about it, its possible to change the colour of the infill on your panel.

Hey Julian,

thanks again for the panel! the green looks fantastic, and I am almost finished with my seq4; Great Job you did on this!

Just to ask again as I still don´t have any acrylic screens in front of my displays: id you do some of these? and if yes, would you sell a pair of those?

or did anyone else do screens that snap-fit into julians / wilbas Frontpanel?

best,

mark

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Hello electronics gurus!

I am nearly done with soldering my midibox seq. Only still to solder are 20 capacitors between VS and VD on my version of integrated in/out PCB (I have 8 out shift registers and 12 in shift registers so 20 total). It my look a funny question for experienced, but should these 20 100nF capacitors be placed near shift register as documented here and here and also how it is implemented in SmashTV in/out kits and wilba PCB version or perhaps I can make a parallel array of them anywhere in the in/out chain between VD (+5V) and VS (ground) or, if I can make an array, perhaps I can replace them all with appropriate single capacitor. What should be appropriate value then for this single capacitor for 20 shift registers?

Also dout schematic shows additional polarized 100 uF (micro?) capacitor between VD and VS (It is not showed in Din schematic although both they share same VD and VS), so I guess I should add this one too in parallel with those 20 100nF or their single replacement? And also 100pF terminators are for din and dout - so four in total?

And yet another question. This schematic says that additional 1kOhm resistor is required between SC and VD, however this one doesn't mention this. Does it mean this resistor is required only in versions older than 4 and starting from version 4 it is not required anymore?

Best regards

Gunars

Edited by gjvti
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Hello electronics gurus!

I am nearly done with soldering my midibox seq. Only still to solder are 20 capacitors between VS and VD on my version of integrated in/out PCB (I have 8 out shift registers and 12 in shift registers so 20 total). It my look a funny question for experienced, but should these 20 100nF capacitors be placed near shift register as documented here and here and also how it is implemented in SmashTV in/out kits and wilba PCB version or perhaps I can make a parallel array of them anywhere in the in/out chain between VD (+5V) and VS (ground) or, if I can make an array, perhaps I can replace them all with appropriate single capacitor. What should be appropriate value then for this single capacitor for 20 shift registers?

Also dout schematic shows additional polarized 100 uF (micro?) capacitor between VD and VS (It is not showed in Din schematic although both they share same VD and VS), so I guess I should add this one too in parallel with those 20 100nF or their single replacement? And also 100pF terminators are for din and dout - so four in total?

Best regards

Gunars

Hi, Gunars !

In digital schematics bypass caps 100nF are placed between Vdd and ground (Vss) of each chip as close as possible always .

Adding some polarised capacitors are recomended too.

http://en.wikipedia....pling_capacitor

Using 100pF terminators for din and dout chains I understand as high frequency filters.

Regards,

Janis

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Hi, Gunars !

In digital schematics bypass caps 100nF are placed between Vdd and ground (Vss) of each chip as close as possible always .

Adding some polarised capacitors are recomended too.

http://en.wikipedia....pling_capacitor

Using 100pF terminators for din and dout chains I understand as high frequency filters.

Regards,

Janis

Hi Janis,

and thanks a lot for replay!

Thats is clear now. Then I need to

squeeze them among wires:)

Gunars

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hola, after building the fantastic MB-6582, you have infected me and I signed up for the MBSEQ at the waiting list. It looks awesome as usual, Wilba! Maybe I can document building the whole MBSEQ (core, modules and control surface) in another photo tutorial :).

If you are planning for a new case, would you consider making it minimal in dimensions and enclosed air? Or design the CS as a breakout-box only? I really like the looks of the caseless MBSEQ... Sorry for proposing annoying late-stage ideas :)

---

Edit: I temporarily removed myself from the waiting list again, because I want to evaluate a custom frontpanel, as I have severe space restrictions in my audio rack and want the SEQ-CS to be very close to the main keyboard, ideally directly screwed to it :). Will keep you posted, if I come up with a solution for my problem... Sorry for the distraction :)

Edited by Hawkeye
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Hello all,

first of all, thanks for doing all this work. I've been reading through the entire thread, and you've really done a lot so far.

I've added myself to the bulk order list (but only figured out how to unhide my email address a few days later), so I'm now waiting for anything to happen : )

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