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toneburst

MB-6582 CS LCD Cover

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I saw someone say in another thread, which I now can't find, that they were able to source a transparent cover for the LCD on the MB-6582, presumably to fit exactly into the hole in the Frontpanel Express panel.

Anyone any more info on this? I'd be really interested in getting hold of one of those, to add that last little bit of professional polish to Wilba's excellent panel design.

a|x

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It looks almost as good with just a roughly cut piece of 3mm acrylic between the LCD and panel, i.e. it doesn't have to be perfectly cut to fit the hole. On the last one I made (see pics in wiki), the acrylic was cut to the same size as the LCD bezel, then attached to the panel with superglue.

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Hi Wilba!

On the last one I made (see pics in wiki), the acrylic was cut to the same size as the LCD bezel, then attached to the panel with superglue.

That's what I was thinking of, in fact. I just like the idea of the cover being flush with the top of the panel. I'm not sure I'm competent to cut clear acrylic that accurately, though. Maybe there's someone out there who could make an exactly-fitting 1.5mm acrylic cover...

a|x

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You can get Front Panel Express or Schaeffer to cut a 3mm piece of acrylic with a routed edge 1.5mm deep, so it fits inside the panel hole.

To do this you would look at the dimensions of the cutout in the MB-6582 panel FPD file and create a new FPD for 3mm acrylic window which is this size plus 3mm all around.

Then add a "Rectangle in rectangle" cavity, with the outer rectangle bigger than the piece (so it routes a clean edge) and the inner rectangle with the same dimensions as the cutout less some error tolerance (i.e. take off 0.5mm perhaps).

I've done this with the MB-SEQ - it's a 3mm panel with a 3mm window, and I route both the back of the panel and the window with a 1.5mm edge so they fit together flush on both sides.

I probably should design it myself in FPD and make the file available.

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That would be great

You can get Front Panel Express or Schaeffer to cut a 3mm piece of acrylic with a routed edge 1.5mm deep, so it fits inside the panel hole.

To do this you would look at the dimensions of the cutout in the MB-6582 panel FPD file and create a new FPD for 3mm acrylic window which is this size plus 3mm all around.

Then add a "Rectangle in rectangle" cavity, with the outer rectangle bigger than the piece (so it routes a clean edge) and the inner rectangle with the same dimensions as the cutout less some error tolerance (i.e. take off 0.5mm perhaps).

I've done this with the MB-SEQ - it's a 3mm panel with a 3mm window, and I route both the back of the panel and the window with a 1.5mm edge so they fit together flush on both sides.

I probably should design it myself in FPD and make the file available.

That would be great, actually!

a|x

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...

I probably should design it myself in FPD and make the file available.

or just use the one i sent you...

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or just use the one i sent you...

Ah, it was YOU, bugfight...

Just out of interest, did you get one of these made, and if so, how much did it cost, roughly?

a|x

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Oops! I forgot you already did this, bugfight...

Nothing more to do here, moving along....  :)

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actually i haven't had it made yet, seems it would be useful for a lot of folks though, maybe a group buy, or mr wellington could add it to his long long list of things to do...

i made it using dims from wilbas fpd, so i'm not sure it's all good for the altitude panels, but should be ok.  according to fpd estimater it's $23.45.  i'll attach it here but verify dims before sending it off!

MB-6582_window.zip

MB-6582_window.zip

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It's better to be 0.5mm smaller than the hole than 0.5mm bigger. FPE do great work but you can't expect to use the same dimension and not have it "rub" as it goes in... this scratches the cut edge of the acrylic and it looks bad.

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actually i haven't had it made yet, seems it would be useful for a lot of folks though, maybe a group buy, or mr wellington could add it to his long long list of things to do...

i made it using dims from wilbas fpd, so i'm not sure it's all good for the altitude panels, but should be ok.  according to fpd estimater it's $23.45.  i'll attach it here but verify dims before sending it off!

Cool. I might go for that then!

First to find out if my mainboard is junk or not though ;)

Some of my solder joints look terrrrible... :(

a|x

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i did make it .5mm smaller, but does the altitude panel match your fpd, and does the anodyzing reduce the opening?  i'll get the calipers out when i get home...

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calipers say altitude panel is within 0.1 mm of fpd, so using -0.5mm should be fine.

meanwhile i volunteer dw to include these with his wood cases he's going to make in about 3 years...

edit* i see using mk's outer dims actually drops the price and would be more stable since it is taller, but i think using 4mm thickness is a good idea... fpe says this costs $19.95

MB-6582_window_2.zip

MB-6582_window_2.zip

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It looks almost as good with just a roughly cut piece of 3mm acrylic between the LCD and panel, i.e. it doesn't have to be perfectly cut to fit the hole. On the last one I made (see pics in wiki), the acrylic was cut to the same size as the LCD bezel, then attached to the panel with superglue.

Quote from Schaeffer's FAQ

Is it possible to glue Plexiglas to aluminum (e.g. a panel for an LCD) ?

    Yes, it is possible. A silicon glue is used for this. Aluminum (23 µ/K) has a considerably smaller coefficient of linear expansion than Plexiglas (70 µ/K). Consequently the bonding surface has to remain permanently elastic. In addition, Plexiglas is a material that is difficult to bond with other materials even when the linear expansion is the same.

    Good results can be achieved using Henkel silicon glue (omniVISC 1050). You can buy this glue directly from us using order number VMKS1050.

I've had problems with Perspex display protectors coming off in industrial panels, this usually happened with cold weather, usually after the place got warm on a Monday morning. I tried various glues, with mixed results, some industrial superglues will 'fog' the Perspex near the glue line, as it sets. I'm trying to get some of the glue that Schaeffer mention at the moment, (I have about 6 or 7 displays to mount, and want protective covering on all of them). I have a cheap-ish milling base made by Wolfcraft, and I find I can use a basic router in the drill stand to mill the edges quite easily. The rounded corners for the cutout can easily be done with a file after milling (which leaves square corners). The link below I found very useful for cutting speeds and other techniques

Perspex Workshop manual PDF - multi language

Hope some of this is of use.

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Interesting....

I'd assumed you'd glue it via the sticking-out flange around the bottom of the cover, which would be pressed against the back of the panel by the LCD pressing against it from the back, anyway, so it shouldn't move too much. Maybe it wouldn't even need gluing.

a|x

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