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19" Case for GM5x5x5 USB Midi Interface


Hendrik
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Hi,

I think about making the GM5x5x5 USB-Midi Interface fit in a 19" case.

Who else is interested in this? It would be a 1U 19" rackmountable case.

The price depends on the quantity. If we can manage to order more than

20 pieces the price is roundabout 70€ for the case with the Frontpanel.

gm5x5x5frontjh4.jpg

gm5x5x5obenlw5.jpg

Lets collect who wants it ;)

Hendrik: 2

Total: 2

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I think it would be cool with a custom back panel and a front panel with the leds. The Thonnman panels wouldn't be optimal in my oppinion. They don't even have the right number of holes. 11 is needed. Are there USB type B connectors that fits into those round XLR-size holes available?

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Maybe I am missing the point here, but why not just buy a 1U rack case (from pollin for instance) drill 11 holes into it (or if you suck at drilling order a panel from schaeffer for ~20). Why would you use extra special uber fancy neutrik sockets which will not even fit on the PCB?

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Why would you use extra special uber fancy neutrik sockets which will not even fit on the PCB?

yes and while these sockets are really nice, I didn't find any Midi version of them. If they exist, they'll surely cost 3-5 Euros each. Together with the GM5x5x5 module and a case that's 70-100 Euros alone, you'll end up with a unit that is more expensive than a used or even new 8x8 Midi interface by e.g. MOTU/MAudio/whoever. DIY is nice but I don't see a point in spending more money for a Midi interface than for a commerical unit that even has more ports.

S

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Why would you use extra special uber fancy neutrik sockets which will not even fit on the PCB?

Depends on where you are using it. If you're going on the road, PCB mounted sockets are an accident waiting to happen. Trip over a cable, or drop a plugged up box, and you risk writing off the lightweight plastic socket, and more importantly, the PCB. Even if the PCB survives, desoldering a broken PCB DIN  socket is not a lot of fun. If you're going pro, then decent, chassis mounted, metal sockets are the best option. I know - I've been there. On the road, consumer stuff just doesn't cut it. If you have a metal socket, with a 2/3 pin connector to the PCB, then replacing a broken socket is a screwdriver job. I notice you have provided the connector pads on your board, so you must have had it in mind for an option.

The snag is, Neutrik don't seem to make one in this format, at least it's not listed on their UK website. They do have a metal socket listed, but it's a more standard one. They also have a reversible USB, in their 'pro' range, which acts like an A to B adapter. The best metal 5 pin DIN socket seems to be the Deltron single hole types, which Wilba fancies for his sequencer - like this:

[img width=200 height=200]http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/CUI%20Inc/Web%20Photo/SD-50LS.jpg

This also gives you the option to wind a few turns of the connecting wire through a ferrite, if you have EMC concerns. There's a lot of good stuff about pro MIDI on Hinton Instruments

A few thoughts anyway.

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If you have a metal socket, with a 2/3 pin connector to the PCB, then replacing a broken socket is a screwdriver job

I once had a an amp's XLR plug that was used as a stepping-stool snap off like that. I took the cable that was in there, whipped out a blade and cut the head off it, stripped the wires with my teeth, wrapped them around the pins, and gaffa taped it in place. Let's see you do taht with plastic PCB mount kit ;)

The show must go on......

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Obviously if you wanna tour with that stuff panel mounted metal sockets are the way to go. I am assuming that most people are gonna use theirs at home though - that's why my initial answer was "it's not really worth it"

Was just going to use mine to keep my books propped up!

Building all this equipment and I haven't a clue how to use it! Midibox masterclass anyone?

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