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My midification of my 70's Baldwin 210


tonyn
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I have a funny feeling that it's a PSU!

So:

I am going to risk this:

I am going to use the first core, which may or not be bad.

Hook it up to the American PSU and test voltages, and see if under load it puts out 9v.

If all is well, then I will proceed with that one and hope my problems were the PSU.

OK: That PSU under load still puts out 12v.

But my 5vs are good.

So, do I Continue with it or?

Edited by tonyn
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Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My core seams to be fully functional! :frantics:

I took a risk by using the American PSU, just popping in the ICs,

and connecting it to my organ computer with midi-ox open( with the monitor in open),

and I have a sysex code from the core!

So the problem was that that other PSU wasn't putting out enough current!

But I am worried about the 12v part.

Well sometimes it is something simple.

Now to see if I can upload the hex file to the core...

I'll change over to midiosstudio for that, and set it for automatic etc.,

to see if it gets the requests from the core, etc.

Edited by tonyn
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Somehow I had to set the id to 1(that's because this PIC is preprogrammed for channel 1).

I couldn't use the "wait for upload request".

But I was able to use "Smart Mode - use feedback from core"

So it has to communicating with the PIC OK.

Seams to have uploaded the hex file...

Edited by tonyn
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Time to remount the core onto the switch board,

connect up the dins to the core,

and see if it still works.I am also risking doing this unfused right now too.

But I also have a feeling that the reason the fuse blew

was due to the PSU itself being overloaded because it couldn't handle the current draw, etc.

I'll refuse it shortly(after the dins are all connected up,

and everything is working,

I'll check the total current draw and put in an apropiate fuse).

BTW: The first optocoupler had been reversed, so I can't trust it, and it's going in the trash can.

Even if it was good, it may have been stressed out with what I did to it.

So it may go eventually anyway.

So, to play it safe, I consider it bad and it gos in the trash, so I don't inavertingly use it.

Edited by tonyn
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OK.

Core is remounted, using my computer wires.

These are 22 gauge, and should work fine.

I should have just did this to start.

Those wires are more flexible to route.

I will remount the fuse holder and fuse later...

As you can see, only one din is connected right now.

It's all powered up, connected to the computer, with a good sysex message.

So all is well so far.

I'll upload a midibox128_syx file next, and test out the keyboard.

Once one din works, etc., I'll connect up the other.

One step at a time...

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We have a virtual organ guys(well at least one of my keyboards works with it for now)!

I have Miditzer Style 216 running with the Miditzer keyboards set to channel 1.

I can play some notes guys!

This is only with the one din, and I may need to reconfigure the midibox128 file, etc.

So now to connect up the other din..

My son is happy, I am happy!!!!!!!!

He is playing the keyboard right now.

:hyper:

Edited by tonyn
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Talked too soon.

I just connected up my first din to the second and don't have anything from it....

The second din still works with key presses(but not all notes play) to the core with the first din connected to it,

but no note presses from the first din.

Humm..

Maybe it's just the mapping in the midibox_syx file..

Maybe I should make long IDC cable for testing to just connect up the first din to the core to see if it actually works.

I am confident it does.

But it won't hurt to make sure.

If so, it's either in the connection between the Dins, or the maping in the midibox128_syx file.

So it partially works..

The keys aren't mapped right for Miditzer, so it must be the mapping.

Edited by tonyn
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OK both dins are working.

I had to shift the IDC connectors to the right as in these pictures.

I knew I should have used 5 pin female connectors for this connection.

Well, I can do that later.

Right now:

#1 there are missing keypresses on both dins(i.e. some keys work, others do not,

this is verified in the monitor in of midi-ox).

This may just be bad push botton contacts(I'll test this out later), etc.

#2 The notes that play in Miditzer are not in the right places, etc.

#3 I can't seam to update the syx file on the core.

Right now the lowest C note on the keyboard maps to octive 7 note G#

(this note plays, but is beyond the Miditzer keyboard keys).

The highest C note on the keyboard maps to octive 3 note E

The other notes are scattered(some are in order, some show up in weird places)..

The highest note C, maps to pin 5 in midibox.

The lowest C on the keyboard maps to pin 57 in midibox.

The main thing is being able to update the midibox syx file on the core.

But it also seams that the Dins are out of order as to how the core sees them

(i.e. the first din J6 is the higest pin in midibox,

the second Din J3 is the lowest pin, etc.)

So I may have to think on how to route them different remount the Dins

(i.e. flip them), and/or remount the core, etc..

I guess the order I planned didn't work out as I hoped.

There is enough cable length, etc., to change things around a bit.

But right now I just want to update the midibox syx file on the core to remap the keys for now.

I am exhausted.

I may call it quits for today and aproach it tomarrow.

In the meantime:

Any ideas what's wrong guys?

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Edited by tonyn
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OK.

All connections from terminal strips to Dins play notes

(I used a jumper wire to connect the Din side of the terminal points to the

grounds of the barrier strips, bypassing the push button switches).

So there maybe some bad switches or I need to make some adjustments

with the key hammers hitting the push bottons correctly, etc.

Damn version 2 with touch switches(my thoughts on this are back a few posts) may be next.

But right now I need to find out why my syx files are not updating the core...

They compiled right and seamed to upload with both midi-ox and midosstudio, but maybe not..

It can't be a bad midi input to the core, since the midibox128 setup hex file uploaded,

and I wouldn't have note presses if it didn't, etc..

I need to look over the midiosstudio and midi-ox configurations again..

I am off to bed now.

If you guys have any inputs or suggestions for me, I would appreciate them.

Edited by tonyn
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Sucess with the midibox128 syx file upload.

I have all 3 tools:

midiosstudio

midi-ox

sysexbox

All 3 can be used to upload a reconfigured midibox128 syx file.

But I was only sucessfull with using sysexbox for the syx file.

That may have been because it can be set to device ID 1.

See, these PICs I got from avishowtech I ordered preprogrammed for Device Ids 0,1,2,3

The top keyboard's pic is device ID 1

The defaults of these programs is device Id 0.

Anyway I was able to map pin 5(the highest C), to it's note of 60(which is Octive 7, C)

Now to map out the rest of the keys.

Then I will have the top keyboard working right with Miditzer, etc.

I also looked at my moving the IDC to the right????

The connections should have been the same if I didn't move it.

So I'll take another look at that too.

The orders of pins to the keybaord with my conenctions are in reverse:

instead of from left to right pin 1- pin 61, it is in reverse order.

But in midibox I can reverse the mapping.

I am not quite happy now that the keyboard is playable with the push button switches.

But I put a lot of work into this, so I'll finish this version up and enjoy playing them for Christmass.

They are playable, but too stiff, etc.

But I need to do some adjusting yet, so I maybe able to get a good feel with some adjusting.

It's too bad that I didn't think of the touch switch type idea I posted a few posts back to start.

But sometimes you get a good idea after you already have something else done.

But I can always improve what I have.

The push bottons work, but I can do better.

BTW: After I finish my midibox128.ini file I'll post it so you can take a look at it.

Edited by tonyn
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OK.

The mapping works.

I am not done, but I have it figured out.

I thought I would explain how I am doing it before I finish and show you the results.

The Dins are sort of upside down.

J3 is to the right.

The core sees the Din connected to it as the first Din.

So in Midibox the pin assignments start with that din, J3.

Pin1 in midibox is pin 1 on J3.

So Octive 7, C(highest C on keyboard) is pin 5(61 keys remember), pin 6-8 is not used.

Although pins 6-8 are not used, I mapped them to Octive 7, C, just to have something in code.

But from pin 5 to pin 1 it gos down to Octive 6, G#

The sequence for each group of 8 is in order up the keyboard, but in groups of 8,

in reverse from Din 2, J3, to Din1, J6.

So the the last group 64-57 is for the first Din J6, pin 8-1, Octive 1, G-C

I'll post my midibox MIDIOUT part of my midibox128.ini file for you to see what I mean...

Edited by tonyn
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We have a fully functional Midified keyboard now!

I have all of the keys mapped out and they work fine with Miditzer!

I just taught my son a simple tune(doe a deer), and recorded it for him!

I'll post my midibox128 ini MIDIOUT part here for you.

The MIDIOUT part is where the mapping is for the Dins.

If you connect up your Dins as I have in that order,

and have your PIC programmed for Channel 1(the Number 90 is for channel 1),

this will work for 61 key keyboards:

[MIDI_OUT]

##########################################

# This is J3 on Din #2 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

1 = 90 5C 7F 90 5C 00 @OnOff

2 = 90 5D 7F 90 5D 00 @OnOff

3 = 90 5E 7F 90 5E 00 @OnOff

4 = 90 5F 7F 90 5F 00 @OnOff

5 = 90 60 7F 90 60 00 @OnOff

# these are the last 3 non used inputs, #

# so they are mapped to the highest C #

6 = 90 60 7F 90 60 00 @OnOff

7 = 90 60 7F 90 60 00 @OnOff

8 = 90 60 7F 90 60 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J4 on Din #2 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

9 = 90 54 7F 90 54 00 @OnOff

10 = 90 55 7F 90 55 00 @OnOff

11 = 90 56 7F 90 56 00 @OnOff

12 = 90 57 7F 90 57 00 @OnOff

13 = 90 58 7F 90 58 00 @OnOff

14 = 90 59 7F 90 59 00 @OnOff

15 = 90 5A 7F 90 5A 00 @OnOff

16 = 90 5B 7F 90 5B 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J5 on Din #2 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

17 = 90 4C 7F 90 4C 00 @OnOff

18 = 90 4D 7F 90 4D 00 @OnOff

19 = 90 4E 7F 90 4E 00 @OnOff

20 = 90 4F 7F 90 4F 00 @OnOff

21 = 90 50 7F 90 50 00 @OnOff

22 = 90 51 7F 90 51 00 @OnOff

23 = 90 52 7F 90 52 00 @OnOff

24 = 90 53 7F 90 53 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J6 on Din #2 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

25 = 90 44 7F 90 44 00 @OnOff

26 = 90 45 7F 90 45 00 @OnOff

27 = 90 46 7F 90 46 00 @OnOff

28 = 90 47 7F 90 47 00 @OnOff

29 = 90 48 7F 90 48 00 @OnOff

30 = 90 49 7F 90 49 00 @OnOff

31 = 90 4A 7F 90 4A 00 @OnOff

32 = 90 4B 7F 90 4B 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J3 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

33 = 90 3C 7F 90 3C 00 @OnOff

34 = 90 3D 7F 90 3D 00 @OnOff

35 = 90 3E 7F 90 3E 00 @OnOff

36 = 90 3F 7F 90 3F 00 @OnOff

37 = 90 40 7F 90 40 00 @OnOff

38 = 90 41 7F 90 41 00 @OnOff

39 = 90 42 7F 90 42 00 @OnOff

40 = 90 43 7F 90 43 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J4 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

41 = 90 34 7F 90 34 00 @OnOff

42 = 90 35 7F 90 35 00 @OnOff

43 = 90 36 7F 90 36 00 @OnOff

44 = 90 37 7F 90 37 00 @OnOff

45 = 90 38 7F 90 38 00 @OnOff

46 = 90 39 7F 90 39 00 @OnOff

47 = 90 3A 7F 90 3A 00 @OnOff

48 = 90 3B 7F 90 3B 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J5 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

49 = 90 2C 7F 90 2C 00 @OnOff

50 = 90 2D 7F 90 2D 00 @OnOff

51 = 90 2E 7F 90 2E 00 @OnOff

52 = 90 2F 7F 90 2F 00 @OnOff

53 = 90 30 7F 90 30 00 @OnOff

54 = 90 31 7F 90 31 00 @OnOff

55 = 90 32 7F 90 32 00 @OnOff

56 = 90 33 7F 90 33 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J6 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

57 = 90 24 7F 90 24 00 @OnOff

58 = 90 25 7F 90 25 00 @OnOff

59 = 90 26 7F 90 26 00 @OnOff

60 = 90 27 7F 90 27 00 @OnOff

61 = 90 28 7F 90 28 00 @OnOff

62 = 90 29 7F 90 29 00 @OnOff

63 = 90 2A 7F 90 2A 00 @OnOff

64 = 90 2B 7F 90 2B 00 @OnOff

Now to test for current draw, fuse it, make some physical adjustments for the key presses to the push buttons,

and wrap it up for this keyboard part.

Stay tuned for my next part, maybe in a week or so...

Feel free to post to this thread if you have any questions, comments, suggestions, etc.

I will be checking this thread often.

I will continue with this project, and this thread, as I proceed to FULLY midify my organ.

Edited by tonyn
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OK.

For those of you who think that after reading my disapointment about the

stiffness of the switches, etc., a few posts back, and are now thinking my deisgn is not good:

#1 My design is sound with the push botton switches.

I would not get much better with touch type switches,

since the spring part of the switches is only about 1/4 inch movement.

But this 1/4 inch is on the switch side.

By having the switches on the end of a lever

(the hammer part of the keys are at the other end of a lever,

and knowing your lever principles, 1/4 inch on that end is a lot less on the other),

the stiffness to the key itself is a lot less than 1/4 inch of the end of the key press.

So the stiffness part is just in the end.

This is one of the reasons why I decided to mount the switches where I did

(I could have mounted them directly under the keys themselves).

The bad part of this is that you do not get a sound until the key is pressed all the way down,

and the push botton has made full contact.

#2 My touch switch idea would require metal to metal contact of the hammers to the screw heads, etc.

This would be noisey!

#3 The problem right now is that the switch board is made out of wood.

I got an 5/8 inch thick MDF shelf, hoping for litle to no warpage(wood can be warped, etc.)

It seams that in the middle of the boarc the key hammers are too close to the push bottons,

Thus have little movement to the switches, and are way too stiff.

#4 my holes are slightly off center, and if the hammer doesn't hit it in the center, the push botton doesn't work right.

This causes intermitent contact.

So basically I just have to adjust the heights and alignment to the center of the switches.

I can adjust the height by adding or removing washers in the switch board mount.

But, since the board is a little warped, the switches to the outside may not make good contact,

and the oens to the center too much. That has to be adjusted by bending the key metal.

The center alingment can also be adjusted by bending the metal of the keys.

This bending of the metal is a fine adjustment and would make every key unique in it's bend, etc.

If I decide at a later time to change switch boards, etc.,

I would have to bend them back to be all alike, etc.

So decision time:

Do I commit to this design and bend the key metal of the keys, or

do I rethink the switch part out.

Or do I take a look at the old contact board for the organ(which is still intact),

tear out the electronics, and use part of it for it's metal part for a switch board,

and see if I can somehow use parts of those contacts?

There is also a possibilty that usig the old contacts I can maybe design them to have second touch!

They are sort of leef spring contacts of 6 per key, that make contact all of the way through the keypress.

So I could maybe redesign it to have some make contact in the first part of the keypress,

and others make contact in the last 1/8-1/4 inch, thus having a second touch!

Right now I might as well just finish up my lower keyboard switch board(I have it all ready to assemble,

so might as well), daisy chain the cores,

and see if would be happy wth this or?

Over this next week I'll take a good look at the old contact boards and maybe come up better redesign.

I may use both ideas, etc.

At least I do have playable midified keyboards now!

So the electronics for the midi parts is at least done!

Edited by tonyn
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As you may have seen:

I am not happy until it's perfect!

I am not JUST midifying an organ to just SAY it's midified, but not really playable for a musician.

I NEED it to feel just perfect.

Else playing it will not be enjoyable!

The MOST important part to me is the feel of the keyboards!

They need to have that somewhat weighted key feel

(as much as you can expect from an organ keyboard that is),

nice touch, without feeling like toy keyboards!

So over the next week I will NOT bend any metal just in case I want/need to use the old contact boards.

I will look at the old contact boards to see if I can make better contacts using parts of them,

see if what I do have working I can live with, etc.

The keyboards to me are the most inportant part of the midification.

After they have the perfect feel, the rest is just electronics and programming.

BTW: When I was looking for the perfect contact and looked at portable keyboards

(didn't like those touch switch contacts), my organ guy had some older lowry organ keyboards

that did use push button switches.

So I thought "if lowry used them, then why can't I"?

But he also said they had problems with the switches.

All of my push button switches DO work(remember that I DID test them before hooking up the Dins?),

but right now I just need to adjust the hammers to make better contact with them, that's all.

But they may also cause problems eventually too.

Then again, I took that into account by making them easily replaceable..

As you can tell, I also edit my posts a lot too, to update and correct them, etc.

So reread all of them for updates.

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I just took a couple of pictures of one of my old contact boards from the organ.

I'll be looking these over over the next week,

to see if maybe I should maybe go back to reinstalling them,

figuring out the wiring the Dins(not the old electronics, that will be removed), etc.

I may also come up with a way to use both

(i.e. I'll reinstall one of the old contact baords first and check for stiffness of the keys,

if it is not any better,

I may use the holes and metal bottom from it with my panel mount push buttons,

for better alignment, no warped wood, etc.)

Best of both designs so to speak,

using what I figured out with my push button board,

and what Baldwin did with theirs.

If you guys have inputs let me know.

Right now my son is enjoying playing the push button keyboard I do have working

(if you can call hitting notes playing).

So the noise starts of an unlearned kid playing a musical instrument!

My son has been waiting for me to get a keyboard working over the last weeks.

He was playing with the Miditzer program with the touch screen and mouse.

But now he can somewhat play a real keyboard with Miditzer.

Miditzer is a great program to start with.

Thank you for whomever programmed this nice program!

So I'll let my son enjoy for a while before I disable them , etc...

I think you can see where I may be heading at now.

I am thinking on re-using parts of the old contact boards!

Since I did not destroy the integrety of the organ, this can easily be done.

Was this a waste of time with designing and building the push button switch boards?

I don't think so.

It was a trial and error type thing, and I learned some from it.

If you want a push button type keyboard, this may work great for you.

But in my design for my organ,

I am not quite happy with the end results of the keyboards using the push buttons, so...?

But the pedal boards may work well with push buttons(I'll see when I get to that point).

I may make use of those switches there.

When I origionally looked at the old contact boards,

I didn't like the idea of tearing them apart and redoing the contact boards,

just in case this midification didn't work,

and I changed my mind and wanted to put the organ back as it was.

So I just went ahead and designed new boards that are removable to just replace the old ones.

But now that I know this midifcation thing works great and I am now fully commited to this route...

See this organ has memories for me, so I didn't want to destroy it with my modifications.

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Well...

My wife is really on me to clean up the living room to put up the tree now.

So I guess I'll just have to put things away tonight, close up the organ,

and let the keyboard as is for now.

At least it's somewhat playable for now for the kid to enjoy.

I'll check out the old contact boards,

but may not be able to actually do any work until after Christmass.

Don't be surprized if I do do more work before Christmass and continue to post.

So you will have a lot more to read. :rolleyes:

I hope you enjoy having something interesting to read each day from my heavily worded posts. :D

I am excited now that things are working and want to continue...But one step at a time as I have been doing.

Right now it's possibly rethinking out the keyboard contacts.

I WILL NOT BE MOVING ON TO ANYTHING ELSE UNTIL I AM COMPLETELY HAPPY WITH MY KEYBOARDS,

SINCE THIS, TO ME, IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE ORGAN.

So that is why I started with them.

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More thoughts...

OK, If I can use part of the old contact boards:

As you can see in the pictures I posted of them each set of contacts has 5 or more contacts

(this isn't the important part, I will only use one set, whichever I can use).

Those contacts I think make contact throughout the key press.

But, to maybe use the best of both worlds,

my push button pannels(remember that the switches are mounted in a metal strip pannel

on the bottom of the wood switch boards),

along with the old contact boards...

I could maybe mount the push button strip on top,

so that in the last 1/4 inch or so of the keypress, you make contact with the push button switches.

Guess what that would provide for me?

Second touch keyboards!

I don't know the specs on second touch, is it the last 1/8 inch or 1/4 of the key press, or?

Anyone know?

See I wanted to see if I could add that feature.

Maybe this way I can!

I'll see when I look over and test out the old contact boards, what can be done...

So I may not have wasted time and money on the push button idea, etc.

I maybe able to incorporate them with the old contact boards!

Edited by tonyn
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Now that the organ is closed up,

and I had a chance to actually sit down and try out the keyboard myself:

The keys that DO align right with the switches DO have a good feeling and work great.

But to align the ones that don't requires bending the hammer metal parts of the keys for precise adjustment.

You are talking about 1/8 inch or less of adjustment, and the keys would not all be the same, etc.!

Yes, I could do that, but the wood board may also warp more over time,

and require constant bending of metal, etc., for adjustment.

Plus the push button switches are questionable as to their longevity.

The old contact boards allowed for more play with the leef contacts so constant adjustment isn't needed.

Baldwin did build the organ to last a very long time, so I wil try to use what they had if I can.

So, although my switch boards can work well with adjustments, I can just forsee constant adjusting, etc.

Plus bending metal too much can stress it out and weaken and it may break.

So, although my push button boards can work well, I'll see what can be done with the old contact boards this week.

I also have thought out a bit on the pistons:

I should maybe use one of the cores for the keyboards for those.

The bottom core would route best to those pistons, which are under the top keyboard,

but easily wired from a din from the bottom keyboard.

I have 5 pistons, and between the keyboards 6 spare din .

But that would require using both cores with wires that may get tangled, etc.

I could just add another din to the bottom core for them.

But that would add 32 extra, and I only need 5.

I had planned on using the top core for the stops to add the pistons to,

but that would require a length of wire, etc., too.

But my pedal board only has 25 pedals.

32-25=7.

Just enough!

Plus if I mount my midi circuit for the pedal board in back as planned,

the routing would work great!

So that is the plan for the pistons now, subject to change.

I do have enough cores and dins for all of this,

so it's just where I want to route it from.

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Here are my planns for the stops circuits when I get to them:

#1 The old stops will have to go, since to work with the virtual organ programs I need toggle type switches.

#2 I would like to SEE if a stop of activated. So I want them to light up LEDs when activated.

#3 I want them to look nice as if they were made for the organ.

So:

#1 I will need to order 4 Douts to allow them to be activated from the computer programs

(I already have the 4 Dins and a core already).

#2 My organ guy has some from various organs that hopfully will eb cheap and look and work.

These new stops need to be push buttons.

I will add flip flop circuits to them so I have a toggle circuit.

This circuit will also drive LEDS.

For the leslie control stop I will also need to add a relay circuit to it to drive that.

So this is just my planns when I get there.

I may need to etch my own circuits for those since avishowtech doesn't have those.

Unless the Douts can do this without adding much to them?

Anyone else that can make me nice high quality boards for those?

They should be simple flip flop LED driver type circuits using simple ICs, etc.

I'll provide schematics when I have that part figured out.

Edited by tonyn
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Ok.

Great!

So I don't need to ADD any type of flip flop circuit, since the Douts are in effect that already?

I kind of hoped so.

No need to add/design my own for them then.

Just add LEDS push buttons, and relays?

The Dins will detect the state, and the Douts make the push buttons(or computer) toggle that state and drive the LEDs and Relays?

I'll look at the ICS of the Douts to see what they are.

I was just thinking ahead without digging too much into it yet.

I want to plan ahead so I know what I need to order so I have what I need when I come to that point.

I knew I needed Dins and Cores for the detection of it all, so I already have those.

But if I want to control the stops I'll also need Douts.

Plus I'll have the change the stops over to modern type LED push button types.

Those I can get from my organ guy.

All of my stops and pistons will be changed over to push button types.

The pistons don't need Douts, since they won't need control, just detection.

I think it would be neat to push a cancel piston and see it cancel the activated stops and turn off the LEDs.

Or a piston actually control a physical stop by lighting the LED, etc.

Update: Did I get you right?

The DOUTS can function as DINS too, so no need for DINS AND DOUTS for the stops if I want to detect and control the stops since the DOUTS can detect AND control?

So just use DOUTS, and the push buttons AND program can control the DOUTS AND detect the state?

It's hard for me to picture this, so:

Are there any schematics of Dout LEDS or Relay driver circuits here anywhere?

Hi.

IIRC, the MIDIbox64 (or 128) can do this in software so no need to design a flip-flop circuit, buttons can be programmed to toggle values and DOUT's can be configured to show the current 'state' of the button.

Thanks

Phil

Edited by tonyn
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Merry Christmass guys!

Last night I closed up the organ,

cleaned up the living room of my mess(everything is boxed),

and put up the tree.

When I work I have parts all over the place.

Although they are now boxed, this just means "Organized".

But I can get to them if I need to.

This also doesn't mean I can't do any work!

My old contact boards are in the basement.

So I'll be pulling them apart,

checking out to see how I can redo them to get some good contact for the midi circuits,

planning the mounting of those circuits onto them, etc.

I can do this without opening the organ until I am ready to remount them.

In the meantime the top keyboard is playable with the switch board.

So the kid can have fun with it now while I redo the contact boards.

At this point I can have a somemwhat playable organ as I continue.

This helps to inspire me more as I continue, since I can see it working now,

and I am just making more of it work as I proceed.

As you can see my computer keyboard and mouse are just sitting on top of the organ.

Eventually I want to pull the computer out of the case, and mount the board, etc., inside of the organ somewhere.

The touch screen monitor will have a better arm so that it can be moved down,etc.

I also want to see how I can have the computer keyboard accessable but not in the way of playing the organ.

But that's last in my midification.

BTW: I put up the lights.

Tonight the wife and kid will put the ornaments on, etc.

post-6922-126151414709_thumb.jpg

Edited by tonyn
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