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My midification of my 70's Baldwin 210


tonyn
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Happy New Year guys!

I am playing Auld Lang Syne now on my midified keyboards with Miditzer,

for the end of the year.

I am back playing again!

Too bad you can't hear it.

I can't wait to get it working through the leslie.

Any requests? :)

:sorcerer:

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OK, new day new year...

I just finished installing the metal plates onto the fronts of the contact boards.

These plates had old circuit boards attached to them.

So they could also be used for another core/din circuit(i.e. second touch).

I then installed the old cardboard dust covers to reuse them.

As you can see the core/din circuits fit nicely under them!

I have to make cutouts in the backs for the inputs and outputs of power and midi,

but that can wait until later.

I am calling it done with the keyboards now so I can move on to the pedalboard and swell.

My next posts will be on the pedalboard and swell!

Here's some pictures of the completed keyboard contact boards:

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Yes, my organ has a nice full length pedalboard!

As you can see it is ony 25 pedals but full length, but..

It looks like there is room for 7 more to make it 32!

I'll see what the contact board looks like.

Maybe there are 32 sets of contact circuit boards,

and this organ had an optional pedalboard!

I'll check with my organ guy on that too.

The pedalbaord is also is removable which is nice.

In case you are wondering about the fish tank:

I have a fish that just won't die!

He hasn't been fed in over a year,

no filtration is running, no lights,

the tank has not had water added,

etc.

I am just wating for him to die so I can clean it out.

But he just won't die, and I can't deliberately kill him.

My organ also had 2 front legs that I removed that am considering wether to put back or not.

They don't seem to help with support.

My cat has also been working against me with repair!

She is sratching the tops of the legs of my bench!

So I have some carpentry work to do too.

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The nice thing about having a camera , is not only to document things,

but it allows me to take pictures in tight spaces that I can't get into to see what's what.

Before I atempt to remove the pedalboard contact board,

I need to look at the cabling to make sure it is loosened from any tie downs, etc.

To get an idea I took a picture first.

As you can see, that cable that gos into the hole, must be for the pedalboard.

But it might also be for a transformer or something for a leslie motor.

I did have this organ mostly dissassembled last summer when I moved it,

and saw something like a transformer under it.

I won't really know until I get behind the organ.

I might as well remove the amp while I am at it so I can work on it too outside of the organ.

Yes I was doing some work on the organ before I decided to midify it,

as you can see by the stripped wires.

So now to move the organ away from the window to get behind it to work.

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Edited by tonyn
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OK.

I was correct.

That is the cable for the pedalboard contacts.

It gos up to old electronics for the pedalboard.

So I will cut the wires for those electronics, and remove those electronics.

I also took a look at the swell pedal and it just has a pot.

Good I'll just replace that with a linear 10k, and wire it to the core.

I will have to figure out how to pick up the analog of the PIC on the core,

and how to code it in midibox.

I will also have to add a header strip for that on the core of the pedalboard.

I also looked at the amp and the circuitry looks simple, I can see the channels.

So it may not be to hard to add premamps to it, etc.

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Edited by tonyn
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I think I found a new place for the pedalboard core and din circuit now too.

I'll just use the spot where the old pedalboard electronics were!

That way I can still use the wires that go down to the pedalboard contact board,

and just solder it up to the dins there.

As you saw there is also a nice(well so so) old dust cover I can reuse too.

That way I can use the space in the upper part of the organ,

where I was going to install the core and din for the pedalboard, for power strips,

etc.

BTW I am saving my old electronics(I never know what I may want/need to use).

That is why I am noting what gos where before I tear any old electronics out.

I may try to find the rythm circuits and wire them up to take signals from the computer,

etc.

I DO know I want to keep the leslie motor drivers, etc.

I just need to trace the wiring out to that.

Plus the main power switch of the organ lights up lights to the sheet music holder, etc.

Those could be replaced with LEDs though.

Plus I'll see what I can do with the old amp too.

It may need to replace the caps, etc., and it will take a bit of work to reuse.

I will be using my organ guy's electronics knowledge on that,

along with looking at the origional schematics of the organ.

But it would be cheaper than buying new amps, etc.

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Well that wasn't too hard.

I had to prop my organ up a bit to see what I was dealing with.

The contact board also looks like they used acrylic for the tabs.

There is only one stack of contact circuit boards,

so I can't get velocity from the pedalboard.

But who needs it there anyway?

The wiring will be simple too, just bypass those resistors,

and replace or clean the 16 gauge wire on the contact circuit boards,

just put it back and wire up to the din.

I'll have to solder a din and core circuit board too,

since I only soldered the keyboard ones.

I also took a picture of a leslie motor so get an idea as to what I am dealing with there too.

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Hummm..

Interesting!

These pedalboard contact circuit boards are the same as the keyboards!

It's just that they do not use all of the contacts that the keyboard contact circuit boards do.

So, I could swap out with the spares from the keybaords, just cut off the unused contacts.

Plus:

These tabs have 2 notches!

Which means I COULD add another stack to actually have velocity!

But that could be an added feature if I think the pedalboard needs it or not.

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OK, that part worked out well..

I just bypassed the resistors.

I used the old wires, just cut them close to the connections(to have as much length as possible),

stripped just a bit off the ends(all you need is about 1/16"),

and reattached them to the other side of the resistors.

I used a simular technic for soldering the ends for the keyboards.

The pedalboard contact board will be a lot easier than the keyboards,

since I am using the existing wiring to run up to the din/core,

and I am not adding anything to them.

Now to remove the contact circuit boards, clean the contacts with some emery cloth, and insert a new copper wire in.

I'll check gauges when I remove the old wires(I have both 18 and 16 gauge, whichever works best).

The pedalboard is a piece of cake compaired to the keyboards.

So this should go quickly for me.

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Edited by tonyn
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I decided to keep the old silver wires

(yes they are silver, or something other than copper, and 16 gauge).

But I did remove them and sand the carbon residue off of them and put them back in.

I also had to sand the carbon off of the spring contact wires too.

This I had to do carefully not to bend them.

Now I have good continuity.

I also cut the ground wires off of the front buss so I can do one board at a time.

I'll put new ground wires in after all circuit boards are back.

The yellow and black will be connected together and grounded to the metal of the contact board.

4 more to go..

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The pedal contact board is all ready to reinstall!

As you can see I marked the wires so I know where they go when I put the cable back in.

I numbered them from 1-25 upscale.

That way I'll also wire them to the din in that order too.

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Note: The contact spring wires ARE NOT attached to the through holes.

So when I soldered a few of the circuit board of the pedalboard,

from the top side, the spring contact wires pushed through,

and came loose, and I had push them back resoldering.

I didn't look at the keyboards, since I didn't remove the circuit cards,

after soldering to the din cables.

So this is something I should check later.

If I were to do it again I would tape the contact spring wires in place before I top solder.

You also want to point the spring wires slightly to the right or the non notched side

of the tabs, so they spring into the notches and stay put.

This is good to know too since I will keep my spare contact circuit boards

from the let overs from the keyboards.

I can make pedalbaord contact circuit boards by just removing the unused spring wires.

They use the same 12 contact circuit boards that the keyboards use.

But only 5 are used.

So as I discovered velocity could be added to the pedalboard too by using spares

from the keyboards and removing the unused spring wires.

I can also replace any bad spring wires if needed too.

The pedalboard contact baord has been reinstalled.

Today I will put terminals strips into that area where I decided to put the pedalboard din/core circuit.

I will connect the wires from the contact board of the pedalboard to terminals.

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OK, I am planning out my core/din layouts now for the pedalboard.

Even though I am only intially going to use one din,

I am planning for 2, just in case I want to add velocity later.

There are 3 terminal strips per din.

Each terminal strip has 12 connections.

12x3=36

Each din has 4 10 pin cables.

Only 8 are used for 32 wires from the din to the terminal strips.

That leaves 4 spare for the 3 inputs from the swell pedal pot

(don't forget the pedalboard core will take analog for the swell).

There are 8 connections on the barrier strip.

This is for the 4 grounds and no connection wires from the dins.

Of course can't forget the power terminal and fuse holder.

I was able to reuse my termianl strips from my old push button board,

so I am making use of those parts.

Now to wire these terminals to the pedalboard, etc., and put the mounts in for the core and dins.

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I just checked out the resistance of the swell pedal pot to see if I can use it.

It IS 10k!

Except it maybe logarthmic, and I may need linear.

But at least I can use it to start.

Now all I need to do is wire things up, and solder a core and din board.

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I took a day to thoroughly think out my layout for the core/din layout mounts for the pedalboard.

I reversed it because:

1. I did not want to cut any more of of the wire lengths to the pedalboard than nessary.

The way the ends of the cable ended for the old cable was that number 1 was the longest, and it was cut down from there.

2. I wanted to move the core a bit away from the speaker so it didn't interfear with noise, etc.

3. I have easy access to the core this way and fuse holder to solder, replace fuses, etc.

4. I moved the ground barrier strip to the other side since it makes more sense

to run the ground wires over the terminal strip to the ground strip.

I may also wire the fuse to the common or ground side, instead of the hot side as I did with the keyboards.

The reason for this that was an afterthought, was that if you inadvertingly touch the fuse holder,

being fused to the ground side you will not short anything or get shocked(unless you are also touching a hot side too).

Safety!

But I like to live dangeriously, and, to be consistant with the keyboards,

I'll just fuse the hot side for the pedalboard too. :pirate:

OK now to wire up the terminals, and install the mounts...

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OK.

The terminals are wired up to the pedalboard contacts,

the swell is wired up, and everything is laid out and the mounts are in.

I ended up cutting about 3 inches off of the length to get a good run for the terminals.

In doing so my pedalboard cable barely reached.

So I added a strain relief for the cable so it doesn't pull the wires out of the terminals,

and I have a bit of play.

I ended up installing the ground terminal barrier strip on the other side to catch the ground wires from the pedalboard.

There are 2 grounds I ran up from the pedalboard contacts, a yellow 18 gauge, and a black 22 gauge.

The more grounds the less resitance to ground, so it doesn't hurt to do more grounds than you need.

The swell pedal pot I wired 3 22 gauge wires to it.

I color coded them for grey and white on each end of the pot,

and the wiper is red.

Then I checked the resistance as the pedal moves, and on one end it's 10k, the other 5k.

I took note.

This was a bit dificult to solder in place, took a bit of cordination.

I just tacked on the wires, and left the old cable,

until I decide if I want to use it or not, etc.

I then checked the terminals for the wires from the pedalboard to ground,

to make sure no contact was shorted to ground.

The next step required someone else to help.

My son just came home from school so this was a good job for him to help me with.

While I checked the terminals,

I had him push the pedalboard contact tabs one by one to make sure I had contact.

All work except pedal #2, so I'll have to look at that later.

It maybe the terminal connection, or a contact spring wire.

The contact board can be somewhat worked on in place.

Moving a contact spring shouldn't be hard, if that is what it is(I hope that is all it is).

Now to remove the din and core circuit boards and solder 1 din board

(I only need 1 din for the pedalboard, although I planned for 2),

and one core board.

I'll also take a look where I am going to pick up an analog from the PIC.

I may have to add some sin(single in line) headers.

Avishowtech didn't provide any sin headers for the analog, so I will have to see...

Here' a bunch of pictures for you.

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Edited by tonyn
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Taking a look at the core circuit board, J5A has analog inputs,

and is a dual header for a 10 IDC.

So I can use it and not worry about adding a SIN header.

But now the delema:

Do I need to build a small AIN x 1 board , that will connect to the pot,

or can I input the pot to analog pins directly?

Anyone have any specs on connecting up a swell pot to the core, and the midibox code??

The note on/off for the pedalboard is streight forward to me.

But I need the right codes for a Main swell pedal.

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Last night I soldered up the din and core.

Wired them all up and downloaded midibox to it.

The core and din work, but I found out I had the din in the wrong place!

Guess that is what happens when you are exhausted and not thinking steight.

I planned the wiring to be nice and neat, but planned on the wrong jumper from the din to the core!

So now I need to remake the IDC cables, and rewire the din and put it in the right place.

I do have enough extra 10 wire ribbon cable to spare.

But I am using the IDC connectors up fast.

I did plan on extras, but I am exhausting them.

This requires 5 more IDC conenctors!

Haste makes waste!

I am in a bit of a rush to at least have the keyboards, pedalboard,

and swell workig by the end of the week,

since I need to think about school shortly,

and want to at least have that part done before I get into my schooling.

I'll post pictures when it's all working and wired up correctly.

In the meantime I am still trying to find the midibox128.ini code for volume,

or for analog input, along with channel code for it.

I found out that I can wire the swell pot to the +5v and ground, and the wiper to A0 on the core.

At least another guy did that and it worked.

But he had to hardcode it in hex.

He couldn't find the midibox128.ini code either.

I don't want to delve into hex coding just yet.

At this point I just want plug and play with the ini files and syx.

Anyone?

Edited by tonyn
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OK, guess I had to do it myself as seems to be the case here.

Through searching threads I found this:

On one of my MIDIO128 setups I connected the swell potentiometer directly to the Analog in pin of the PIC (pin RA0). The MIOS has all the necessary AD routines. See also my earlier posts on the subject.

No additional components or circuits are necessary!

Next step was to add some code to the MIDIO128 and make necessary setup of the MIDI message to be sent (Bc 0B yy for example). Now MIDI Volume messages are sent through the MIDI interface whenever the swell potentiometer is moved.

This setup works great with Miditzer and Hauptwerk. I have not tried the jOrgan yet but it will work with this too. The controlling of the swell function is similar for all these three.

So all I need to do is see which direction to wire up the swell pot so it increases voltage when you increase volume of the pedal, or visa versa, whichever works correctly.

This is just a swap of the outer wires to the pot.

Then to start, I'll just use an IDC that I have left over from my goof up to wire to J5A of the core,

and just pick up the +5v, ground, and A0 from it to wire to the swell pot!

Find the right code for midibox128, that Miditizer and Jorgan likes, etc., and wahla!

Edited by tonyn
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OK everything is wired up for the pedalboard and working in Miditizer and Jorgan!

I was able to reuse all of the IDC cables I initially cut for my goof up.

So no IDC cables were wasted.

Except that the last set of wires to the Din are a bit tight.

But they are to non used pedals anyway, and I can always easily replace the IDC cable later if I want.

I still have the issue with pedal #2 though.

Its not in the Din or terminal connections, so it must be in the pedalboard contact board.

Hopefully it's just the spring contact wire out of place.

So I'll get the pedalboard fully working next, and then move on to getting the swell pedal working.

As you can see I have an IDC ribbon cable attached to J5A of the core to pick up what I need for the swell pedal.

Knowing me, I didn't want any loose connections,

so I'll run that ribbon cable to another terminal strip and from there just wire up the 3 wires from the swell pot.

Here's my MIDI_OUT part of my midibox128.ini file for the pedalboard part.

It's mapped to channel 14, since 15 maybe for a second set of contacts for velocity, and 16 for second touch.

I also have 32 notes although only 25 are used, but I am ready for expanding the pedalbaord to 32, if I can.

[MIDI_OUT]

##########################################

# This is J3 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

1 = 9D 24 7F 9D 24 00 @OnOff

2 = 9D 25 7F 9D 25 00 @OnOff

3 = 9D 26 7F 9D 26 00 @OnOff

4 = 9D 27 7F 9D 27 00 @OnOff

5 = 9D 28 7F 9D 28 00 @OnOff

6 = 9D 29 7F 9D 29 00 @OnOff

7 = 9D 2A 7F 9D 2A 00 @OnOff

8 = 9D 2B 7F 9D 2B 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J4 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

9 = 9D 2C 7F 9D 2C 00 @OnOff

10 = 9D 2D 7F 9D 2D 00 @OnOff

11 = 9D 2E 7F 9D 2E 00 @OnOff

12 = 9D 2F 7F 9D 2F 00 @OnOff

13 = 9D 30 7F 9D 30 00 @OnOff

14 = 9D 31 7F 9D 31 00 @OnOff

15 = 9D 32 7F 9D 32 00 @OnOff

16 = 9D 33 7F 9D 33 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J5 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

17 = 9D 34 7F 9D 34 00 @OnOff

18 = 9D 35 7F 9D 35 00 @OnOff

19 = 9D 36 7F 9D 36 00 @OnOff

20 = 9D 37 7F 9D 37 00 @OnOff

21 = 9D 38 7F 9D 38 00 @OnOff

22 = 9D 39 7F 9D 39 00 @OnOff

23 = 9D 3A 7F 9D 3A 00 @OnOff

24 = 9D 3B 7F 9D 3B 00 @OnOff

##########################################

# This is J6 on Din #1 #

# Pin # On Evnt # Off Evnt # Behaviour #

##########################################

25 = 9D 3C 7F 9D 3C 00 @OnOff

26 = 9D 3D 7F 9D 3D 00 @OnOff

27 = 9D 3E 7F 9D 3E 00 @OnOff

28 = 9D 3F 7F 9D 3F 00 @OnOff

29 = 9D 40 7F 9D 40 00 @OnOff

30 = 9D 41 7F 9D 41 00 @OnOff

31 = 9D 42 7F 9D 42 00 @OnOff

32 = 9D 43 7F 9D 43 00 @OnOff

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Edited by tonyn
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The pedal #2 issue wasn't as easy as a contact spring wire out of place.

So I had to remove the pedalboard contact board to troubleshoot it.

But, fortunetly I designed things so I can easily do this!

I just popped out a din from my Accompanment board(easily done),

so I didn't have to remove the din from the pedalboard( a bit harder to put back).

I took a longer IDC cable from my Accompanment too, to use for the core to the din.

Unscrewed the terminal strips and strain relief to pull the pedalboard cable down,

and pulled the contact board out a bit so I can work on it.

It's all connected up to Miditzer so I can push the tabs to play the notes to test, etc.

Update: I found the problem already!

A soldered connection I made to contact #2 came loose.

Must have been when I had to push a contact spring wire back, and forgot to check the other side.

Easy to fix!

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Edited by tonyn
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We now have a fully midified, fully functional, pedalboard!

I fixed the solder connection for pedal #2, and put everything back.

But I had to also swap out the din with the one from the accompanment, since pin #4

on J3-J5 plays double notes.

It's easier to pop in a din into my keyboard midicircuits than to do it with the pedalboard one

(although the pedalboard midi circuit is easy work on and to get to, I have to get behind the organ).

It's not the midibox code it's something wrong with the din.

I visually looked at the traces and couldn't see anything.

Plus I visually inspected the IC insertions, and pins, and nothing.

I will ohm it out next.

If that is good, I may have to swap ICs out with spares from my din kits for the stops

(I have 1 more core kit and 4 more din kits for the stop midification part).

I may have 3 bad ICs.

It's a consistant problem across 3 ICs, so it could be 3 bad ICs, or resistor networks.

But that can wait until later.

Now to get the swell working...

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Edited by tonyn
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OK.

I have the swell pedal all wired up.

I have it wired correctly too(I hope).

When you push the pedal down the voltage gos from 1v-5v

Pin 10 on J5A of the core is pin 10, black, and ground(vs).

Every other pin on J5A is a ground(2,4,6,8,10)

Pin 9 is +5v(vd), or white wire.

Pins 1,3,5,7,9 are in this order A3,A2,A1,A0

Both sides of the swell pot go to pins 9,10 of J5A(+5v, ground).

The red wire or wiper, middle wire from pot gos to pin 7 of J5A(A0, purple ribbon cable wire).

Now to code the core to output the correct codes for A0 for a swell pedal.

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Edited by tonyn
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Almost there!

I downloaded that guys examples.

He had a swell syx file in his zip,

so just for the heck of it I uploaded it to the core.

I do get volume messages in midi-ox from moving the swell pedal!

Here's a snapshot of the output from the swell pedal in midi-ox:

TIMESTAMP IN PORT STATUS DATA1 DATA2 CHAN NOTE EVENT

000005EA 1 -- B0 07 41 1 --- CC: Volume

000005EA 1 -- B0 07 43 1 --- CC: Volume

000005F9 1 -- B0 07 45 1 --- CC: Volume

000005F9 1 -- B0 07 47 1 --- CC: Volume

000005F9 1 -- B0 07 49 1 --- CC: Volume

000005F9 1 -- B0 07 4C 1 --- CC: Volume

00000610 1 -- B0 07 4D 1 --- CC: Volume

00000613 1 -- B0 07 4F 1 --- CC: Volume

I then tried it in Miditzer, and although the pedalboard still works in Miditzer(but now it's on channel 1, which is what I have for my Solo, so it plays the Solo keyboard when I play the pedalboard), the swell doesn't(as you can see it is sending on channel 1 too).

It does work, just not sending out the right codes(most likely the channel is wrong) for Miditzer nor Jorgan yet.

So a little tweeking of code and I should have both swell and pedalboard fully working in Miditzer and Jorgan, etc.!

Any ideas why this code doesn't work for Miditzer?

What channel is the swell for Miditzer?

It must just be the channels.

I downloaded MPLAB(it's free)

Now I'll look at some example C code and asm codes for midi128, and get acquanted with MPLAB.

I think I used that IDE a while back, but am a bit fuzzy on it.

But I have programmed in Machine Language, Octal, Hex, Assembly, C, C++, etc.,

before, so it shouldn't take me too long. :)

Edited by tonyn
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