MB-6582 killed CS

[toneburst]

I seem to have killed the control surface on my mb-6582.

I think this is the result of one or both of these very stupid mistakes.

1. I connected the LCD cable 15-way plug upside-down. The display survived this time, to my surprise.

2. I had the display fitted in the CS board (though not actually screwed in), without putting any insulator over the contacts on the front of the LCD board, so I may have shorted something out here too.

Now, the display works, encoders work, but some of the buttons no longer seem to work, and some LEDs don't light.

I'm assuming I've burnt out one or more components on the mainboard, but I don't have any idea where to start tracking down what. Is it likely to be the 74HC595Ns or the transistors between mainboard and cs? How would I check?

alx

[toneburst]

It was the connectors again- should have checked before I posted.

Those Mauser 8-way connectors are really delicate. Just had to desolder all of them aften I noticed lots of the wires had broken

I don't know what to do now. I've tried two different kinds of multiway connector, and both broke before I'd managed to get the two boards properly into the PT-10.

I was really hoping to have got this project finished, and with sparx's amazingly generous help, I was nearly there. This connector issue is really bugging me though- I seem to be taking steps backwards every time I sit down to work on this. Every time I have to desolder I end up damaging more pads, too...

:(

a|x

[julienvoirin]

i would change all the 74HC on the mainboard if the trooblshoot continues. some might have burned, which explain why some led/button of the "scan matrix" (not the matrix to create sounds) don't work

forget the connector, use direct wires from pad to pad

[lucem]

I used these connectors for a reliable and removable connection between the two boards:

http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C1442;GROUPID=3224;ARTICLE=32346;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=32mZJE3awQASAAAHg@5Ood0868d254968150e47f106737357f08f

These here might actually work even better, as the straight option is pretty tight when the case is closed:

http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C1442;GROUPID=3224;ARTICLE=14832;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=32mZJE3awQASAAAHg@5Ood0868d254968150e47f106737357f08f

The latter ones are angled 90°, and should provide enough comfort for cabling :)

There are also connectors with less pin count available, suitable for MIDI socket connection, power supply etc.

If you do not reside in .de, I'm quite sure you can get similar or the same stuff in other countries as well.

[toneburst]

Hi lucem.

I used these connectors for a reliable and removable connection between the two boards:

http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C1442;GROUPID=3224;ARTICLE=32346;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=32mZJE3awQASAAAHg@5Ood0868d254968150e47f106737357f08f

These here might actually work even better, as the straight option is pretty tight when the case is closed:

http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C1442;GROUPID=3224;ARTICLE=14832;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=32mZJE3awQASAAAHg@5Ood0868d254968150e47f106737357f08f

Ah, I see. I guess you used 8-way versions, though. Can you get ribbon-cable and 'clamp-on' connectors for this format, too (I mean like the ones used for the LCD cable), I wonder.

The latter ones are angled 90°, and should provide enough comfort for cabling :)

There are also connectors with less pin count available, suitable for MIDI socket connection, power supply etc.

If you do not reside in .de, I'm quite sure you can get similar or the same stuff in other countries as well.

Thanks for the tips. I will have a look at that.

a|x

[toneburst]

Hi again lucem,

do these things come with both parts seen in the photo (ie header plug and socket)?

I'm having problems tracking down anything similar with my usual UK suppliers.

a|x

[lucem]

Yeah, they come ready to use, one end open tinned wire, the other one crimped to the connector.

The board connector comes with it, too.

I used these to connect the LCD, too - fits nicely on single row displays, for double row displays usual IDF connectors are preferrable.

[toneburst]

Yeah, they come ready to use, one end open tinned wire, the other one crimped to the connector.

The board connector comes with it, too.

I used these to connect the LCD, too - fits nicely on single row displays, for double row displays usual IDF connectors are preferrable.

Cool. I've found them at Conrad

They're at least twice the price though...

http://www1.conrad-uk.com/scripts/wgate/zcop_uk/~flN0YXRlPTIwNDY1MDU0Mw==?~template=PCAT_AREA_S_BROWSE&glb_user_js=Y&shop=UK&zhmmh_lfo=&zhmmh_area_kz=&product_show_id=743100&gvlon=&p_init_ipc=X&p_page_to_display=fromoutside&~cookies=1&cookie_n

Sorry to fire loads of questions at you but did you solder the wires directly to the board at the other end, or just buy the same assemblies for each end, and connect the two wires together (or crimp the free ends and stick them into the other sockets)?

a|x

Edited March 8, 2010 by toneburst

[lucem]

No problem.

I soldered them directly to the board, since 30cm is really enough to open it and leave it connected :)

[toneburst]

No problem.

I soldered them directly to the board, since 30cm is really enough to open it and leave it connected :)

Ah, I see. You didn't find you were having problems with the wires getting stressed where they were soldered into the board then? Which board did you solder the connectors, the CS board of the mainboard?

a|x

[lucem]

No, it's flexible wire, so the stress is much less a problem than with solid wire.

I soldered the connectors to the mainboard and the wires to the CS -

but there's no reason it shouldn't work the other way round.

[toneburst]

No, it's flexible wire, so the stress is much less a problem than with solid wire.

I soldered the connectors to the mainboard and the wires to the CS -

but there's no reason it shouldn't work the other way round.

Cool, thanks for the advice. I will get some of those, then, I think.

Cheers,

a|x

[Smithy]

I had the same problem so i decided to order those cables from Conrad also.

Ill have to cut one of them into a 2-pin version.

The ribbon cables that didnt break, were very easy to pull off by hand.

[Snoozr]

I had the same problem so i decided to order those cables from Conrad also.

Ill have to cut one of them into a 2-pin version.

The ribbon cables that didnt break, were very easy to pull off by hand.

I experienced this problem too. I could be wrong but my thoughts were that the stranded wire might not be as idiot-proof as solid copper "hook up" wires in the sense that solid core might tolerate metal fatigue better. Hence, beginners might have a bit more luck with solid core, although you would have to cut and strip each one individually and identically. I did not check that solid core would fit in the holes - that would be another consideration. Knock on major wood that I don't have to repair this again. I had to pick out little strands while desoldering, I lifted two pads, etc.