Thanks for your positive responses!
I got some questions from forum members about switches/buttons and other stuff, so there is some additional info.
I used standard tact switches for function buttons some accompanied with leds (btw utility button is together with jog dial encoder) and illuminated Omron B3W-9000-RG2N for 16 GP, pattern and layer select buttons. Standard switches have decorative transparent plastic caps adapters, which are handmade from KömaTex (?) - very easy to cut foam plastic. Omron switches also got KömaTex adapters, but they had to be cut precisely so I ordered them at local plastics workshop. Initially I planned to stick decorative blue caps directly, but those Omron buttons suffer from insufficient illumination at bright light so I decided to remove their original milky white caps for better illumination. Transparent button caps are CNC milled/cut from PMMA FROST plastic. White
KömaTex and blue PMMA FROST is not glued together so far, since I do not expect open the box frequently and also I'm bit worried about how they match to holes of aluminium panel + tolerance of holes was to mall. So far I'm satisfied with the action of those Omron buttons - they are much softer than standard tact switches, but react well.
Currently I'm also following BLM section to make decision to go for Wilbas pcb and livid buttons or make my own. I have some new ideas about custom button design, but these ideas have to be adapted to what is possible to work out painlessly. I'm very impressed about Phunk's design progress and Wilba pcb idea. Also I was absolutely amazed with
this Ander's project - definitely worth to consider!
My DIN/DOUT pcb is single sided own design and have some flaws since I designed it taking a risk and having no any real part and without knowing exact dimensions so later I had to cut extra holes for spacers and LCD pin headers and do some rewire. Etching (ground, vdd and signal line busses for registers) was made at local seal/stamp shop where they make all kinds of signs and print works. Holes were drilled at home - that took 3 evenings. LED and button wires and also signal wires (chains) for registers are soldered with different colour wires overly. It was really hard to get coloured thin wires (white were easy with soviet MGTF(?) non-melting). Finally I got required thin wires ripping some old vga type cables. All soldering work for SmashTV kits and my PCB was around 4-5 full working days (~40h)
I decided to make my own single sided PCB because I missed Wilba pcb bulk order and had no clue where I can order such double sided pcb locally.
Panel is silk printed aluminium with specially glued aluminium L profiles at the bottom side to eliminate screws at panel front side. Silk print was done at the same seal/stamp shop where etching. Yep, that is expensive if only a single piece is ordered. If I had to build another one, I think I would opt for mill cut instead of laser cut since laser cut surfaces are rough and this doesn't go well with moving plastic parts (button caps) and also milling would allow photo-colour technique which is bit cheaper than silk print. After laser cutting I had to do some filing of rough surfaces manually - a pain in the a....
So I hope I have answered all the questions, which arose so far
If some more questions - let me know.
PS yes, this is my first electronics DIY project. At late teens (20+ years ago), I built RC car at soviet army sports club
but that involved only mechanics - electronic parts were borrowed from club (I do not remember the make).
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