taximan

Idea for cheap illuminated tactiles

13 posts in this topic

Hiya,

I have an idea for tactiles,I have contacted the acrylic rod suppliers to see if they can cut to length and drill holes....I will let you know of the outcome.

The acrylic rod is drilled to a preset depth to fit over the tactile.

The 'slot' in the side of the rod lets the button move without the led moving.

The silicon bumper stop sits on top of the rod.

I have no idea of the height or width until I get a pcb when they come out (hopefully).

This is just an idea and any input is welcome (good or bad).

post-7091-048305300 1283522973_thumb.jpg

cheers

Paul

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While I'm searching LED-Buttons for my SEQ I am build this prototype with the ALPS SKP & SKPM Softbutton and 5mm LED.

I like the silence and the soft feeling and the 1.5mm key travel of these buttons. And the 0.065 EUR / button :yes: .

But the 1.5mm key travel is a problem for direct soldering the LED to the PCB. I let go them through the hole and have to use little wires.

That's a lot of work for a matrix. It's always time vs. money.

Michael

post-6541-008374200 1289610061_thumb.jpg

post-6541-036227500 1289610071_thumb.jpg

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couldn't you bend the lcd legs so that they go vertical and through the pcb two or three holes to the right in your pic? then you would have a rather long horizontal lever which i think would be flexible enough to accomodate 1.5mm travel?

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Michael, nice idea... what are your thoughts about "stuck" keys and general lifespan for a 256+ button matrix?

Bilderbuchi, i guess the place may be needed for other switches, at least if Michael is going for a really tiny BLM.

I am still pondering on the latex membrane idea, cheap transparent rubber feet for the buttons... and bicolor SMD LEDs next to those really nice tactile switches.

Greets,

Peter

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couldn't you bend the lcd legs so that they go vertical and through the pcb two or three holes to the right in your pic? then you would have a rather long horizontal lever which i think would be flexible enough to accomodate 1.5mm travel?

I don't try it yet. But i think 1.5mm is a way to much for that. And the legs of the LED stabilizes the movement very good.

The second problem i see is the space between the buttons. I like a compact matrix. Maybe you'll find a nice solution.

Michael, nice idea... what are your thoughts about "stuck" keys and general lifespan for a 256+ button matrix?

Bilderbuchi, i guess the place may be needed for other switches, at least if Michael is going for a really tiny BLM.

I am still pondering on the latex membrane idea, cheap transparent rubber feet for the buttons... and bicolor SMD LEDs next to those really nice tactile switches.

Greets,

Peter

Thank's!

There is definitely no stuck in my prototype. The movement is absolute smooth! The legs of the LED stabilizes the movement very good. And the real front would thicker than my prototype4 PCB front. That gives more stability.

On the other side it is very important to precisely bend the legs of the LED. If I decide to use these as buttons I have to build a small bending tool to bend all LEDs exact the same way.

The critical lifetime part could be the flexible wire. I don't add them yet. I have to try next.

The wires in my prototype are quick and dirty bend and the LEDs are more than 20 Years old. I use them now only for mechanical prototypes ;-).

post-6541-004942000 1289743246_thumb.jpg post-6541-031259400 1289743258_thumb.jpg

Here are my idea sketches.

post-6541-040874400 1289744458_thumb.jpg

I am also thinking of a small variation. I try with a very cheap white translucent LED and cut the legs completely off. For lighting I use SMD or 3mm nearby the button. In that case I don't need the "flexible" wires to the LED. On the other hand the LED with no guidance could stuck.

I also like the latex membran variation. I think it would also be nice with white textile like Haken Continuum. :D

Edited by WattSekunde

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Looks nice, the question is now where to obtain dragonskin 30 in europe ;)

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Looks nice, the question is now where to obtain dragonskin 30 in europe ;)

I think before I try those chemistry I cut some pencil rubbers to buttons. :no: :rolleyes:

But it could be interesting to drill a 5mm hole in an 12mm hot glue stick and place it over the LED for a bigger button size.

Or drill a hole in the side and place an SMD LED inside with thin insulated wire to the PCB. Then we close the circle in this thread to the idea from taximan.

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or maybe there are some fake "glass buttons" made out of plastic out there, that can be glued to the smd tactile switch top with two component epoxy or so. I like the idea with the cutted glue sticks though, 100% macgyver :)

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I'm going to attempt something with laser cut acrylic from ponoko.

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Quick drawing:

Top is 4.5mm translucent, to protrude slightly above 3mm front panel.

Bottom is 8mm extension of the buttons actuator, with a space to fit the LED, and allow room for button to go up and down without pushing on LED. Larger than top part to prevent the assembly falling out. May need to be taller, depending on height of LED and length of button travel.

post-6793-008146800 1290052319_thumb.jpg

Edited by findbuddha

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I got these prototypes done from ponoko post-6793-021584700 1292728949_thumb.jpg (no photo as my house is too dark)

My findings:

- 8mm acrylic (the middle section in my pictures) costs too much to cut for this application

- Version on left side creates shadows. The middle section that the LED shines through needs to extend around the sides of the top section.

- The thin parts on the right hand version are too thin for 8mm acrylic - gets melted/bent.

- 4.5mm arctic ice acrylic looks quite decent as the top section. Engraving went on the glossy side? I've emailed Ponoko to ask if that was a mistake.

I'm going to investigate an assembly from 2 or 3mm acrylic similar to some of Sasha's creations.

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