Shuriken Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) Does strophlex means feeding it to the 9v ac input on he connector? This because it goes thru the rectifier which should make ac dc right? I just want to be sure before i cut the A500 cable and make it adapt the mb6582 supply socket. still a bit wierd to make 12v dc /9v dc and the let the mb6582 add 5 v dc to make 12vdc again. Well Confusing :) i just dont want to open it up and rewire the mb6582. maybe i just should go a build a new adaptor. :rolleyes: ps:if this is possible i geuss the cap rated 2200pf 16v ,would have a to low voltage rating right, pff i feel noob now:P 9VAC will be around 12V rectified. And yes the 2200pf 16v is low rating. That's why Wilba recommends using a high quality one. A 2200pf 25v would be better, but then you run into problem with thickness of the legs and spacing. Edited December 17, 2011 by Shuriken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X11 Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Cool thnx, i used Tims 2200pf wich was supplied with the kit,so full trust in that:) Going to try it out. Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) @Hans: thanks :-)! @Shuriken: here is info on orange_hands build - maybe he can deliver parts supplier info, if requested: Have a great weekend! Peter Edited December 17, 2011 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I haven''t decided yet on the powersupply but my build of the MB6582 is almost near the end so it got a bit more priority :D Found some more nice linear power supplys i think the first one is ideal not sure though: http://estaging.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8000400#tab=Specs Outputs -12 VDC @ 0.5a. +5 VDC @ 5A, +12 VDC @ 2.5 A Or this one its a bit cheaper and but not sure if it deliveres enough on the 12V: http://estaging.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8008071#tab=Specs Outputs: -12 VDC @ 0.3 A, +5 VDC @ 3 A, +12 VDC @ 1.2 A Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 For what it's worth, I generally like Ally. Their website is kinda meh and Mouser has a better selection (as far as US places go), but they are super nice and generally ship things pretty fast if you're in Texas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuriken Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I haven''t decided yet on the powersupply but my build of the MB6582 is almost near the end so it got a bit more priority :D Found some more nice linear power supplys i think the first one is ideal not sure though: http://estaging.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8000400#tab=Specs Outputs -12 VDC @ 0.5a. +5 VDC @ 5A, +12 VDC @ 2.5 A Or this one its a bit cheaper and but not sure if it deliveres enough on the 12V: http://estaging.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8008071#tab=Specs Outputs: -12 VDC @ 0.3 A, +5 VDC @ 3 A, +12 VDC @ 1.2 A Regards Make sure the switching frequency is high enough before you order it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Make sure the switching frequency is high enough before you order it. Specs indicate it's a linear PSU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Yeah should be linear. On another hand. I finished the MB6582 tonight still didn''t have the other powersupply so i thought lets do a fast testing with the stock C64 i could not wait. When i started it up everything looks okay so i started trying all the buttons and stuff. When i was trying everything suddenly the MB6582 went black. I disconected the powersupply direcly after that happened. Could it be that i fryed everything now? If you fry the ICs can you see that on the outside? I''m worried now :( Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Break out your multimeter and check the pins of your C64 PSU. Chances are it died and not your MB6582. That or it's perhaps remotely possible one of the regulators in the 6582 was too hot. You would know that by waiting a while and trying to use it again. If it works, it could be a heat issue. The C64 PSU's are shitty and quite a few of them will fail if you cough too loud. Some models are apparently ok. My thought is it's not worth risking your hard to replace SIDs with a old and busted PSU. Chances are, though, if it is the C64 PSU that's shot, it's probably the fuse on the inside and nothing else (including your SIDs) are damanged. Many models are not user serviceable so while you can replace the fuse in theory, it will be difficult in practice (many are filled with epoxy on the inside). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuriken Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Specs indicate it's a linear PSU What specs make you say that? If i go here My browser window titel is: COSEL's switch mode power supplies: RMC Series Then if i look in the Datasheet PDF it says: FREQUENCY[Hz] 47 - 440 or DC (the DC only works if the INPUT is also DC) The heavy shielding is also a hint. That's not really needed with a linear supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Ah you're right. Allied lists it as "Linear" but doesn't actually offer up the data-sheet for it to confirm. Good catch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 i noticed it also when i second looked. Damn, i almost thought i had found a nice power supply. Thanks for pointing it out shuriken. The search continues :( grtz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 @dreamer - there is a linear PSU somewhere in this thread that would work. I forget where it is though but it's definitely somewhere in this thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuriken Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 (edited) i noticed it also when i second looked. Damn, i almost thought i had found a nice power supply. Thanks for pointing it out shuriken. The search continues :( grtz Well switching is not necessarily a bad thing. You just want a psu with a switching frequency which is reasonably high. With this i am not sure. Oh wait the 47-440Hz is input freq of AC. The Meanwell PSU mentioned earlier in this topic is also from the switching kind. To be honest, i don't think you can easily find a pre-made linear PSU which can deliver 30W. Allied does seem to have something similar: Mean Well RP-65B to what NorthernlightX is using. Not sure if you need a big -12V line. Edited January 3, 2012 by Shuriken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I found another linear power supply. This one looks nice and its not too expensive. Still above the 100 euro but this one is easier to order in holland. http://www.power-one.com/sites/power-one.com/files/lin_6.pdf Model HCBB-75W-AG deliveres 5V @ 6A, 12V @ 1.7A and -12V @ 1.7A its also possible to switch the -12V to -5V http://nl.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=gCHJnwMCk7Sa%2fhsO6vvSjg%3d%3d Only thing that bothers me is that the same model is mentioned 3 times in the PDF of power-one. With 3 different outputs :( Not sure if the power supply can be switched to all those different currents. The power supply looks certainly promising. Can someone confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuriken Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I found another linear power supply. This one looks nice and its not too expensive. Still above the 100 euro but this one is easier to order in holland. http://www.power-one.com/sites/power-one.com/files/lin_6.pdf Model HCBB-75W-AG deliveres 5V @ 6A, 12V @ 1.7A and -12V @ 1.7A its also possible to switch the -12V to -5V http://nl.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=gCHJnwMCk7Sa%2fhsO6vvSjg%3d%3d Only thing that bothers me is that the same model is mentioned 3 times in the PDF of power-one. With 3 different outputs :( Not sure if the power supply can be switched to all those different currents. The power supply looks certainly promising. Can someone confirm this? If you live in holland....why don't you order RPT-60B. Several people have bought it and it works great with MB6582. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 The would be too easy.. :smile: I wanted to challenge myself into finding a nice linear power supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 As I said, there IS a linear power supply you can buy that is somewhere in this epic thread. It's after the RPT-60 was talked about. As I recall it wasn't cheap but is available and looks like it would worth rather well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 i know i posted that one. But it is tougher to get here in holland then the one i posted today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 if you are careful with the mains voltage, you could also consider building one from scratch, it is really not so difficult :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 if you are careful with the mains voltage, you could also consider building one from scratch, it is really not so difficult :) That's what I'm going to do initially since I basically already have one built. I find it more fun but I also never fully understood all the protection circuit stuff. Though I want to learn (making PSUs is fun!) at some point I need to focus on making the synth work rather than the method of powering it :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) That's what I'm going to do initially since I basically already have one built. I find it more fun but I also never fully understood all the protection circuit stuff. Though I want to learn (making PSUs is fun!) at some point I need to focus on making the synth work rather than the method of powering it :) Totally agreed, me also just copied the circuit somewhere and did a quick test... what the basic crowbar does is, when the voltage goes above a limit, the zener diode opens and makes the crowbar transistor short-circuit the 5v line, blowing the fuse. I guess, one could justify to start without crowbar, just use a modern 78S05 vreg and add the crowbar later on - parts needed: one toroid transformer with 2x9V AC out, one rectifier, one 78S05, a heat sink, two filter capacitators for the vreg, and a large capacitator ahead of the vreg for smoothing. Cost, if bought cheap - probably below 25$ Edited January 4, 2012 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 We talked about other things as well though didn't we? If it's just the crowbar that does the important quick short protection then I could probably swing that (perhaps in my next design) but I thought there were other things? I really wanted to use the resettable pico-fuses and MOVs as well to protect surges and things (I was going to use standard replaceable fuses on mains as well - I do that now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Yes, of course, you can always put in moar protection circuits... just wanted to say, it is a viable alternative to start with a cheap self-built PSU and then improve it step by step - instead of buying an expensive commercial one... Even the cheap self-built solution should be safer for your precious MIDIbox than the old Commodore power bricks from -25 years :) Cheers, Peter Edited January 4, 2012 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hah agreed. But then again, rubbing the SIDs directly on the carpet is probably safer than the C64 PSU :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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