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My SEQV4 - Finished electronics !!!


Lamouette
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I can't work out the switch! It seems to have a pin missing as I would expect two pins for the switch itself and another two for the LED. Looking at the picture, the two pins at the bottom appear to be the LED and the one at the top is one of the switch contacts - the other is missing!:frantics:

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Agreed with ilmenator, its not good to see people get re-animated, when they don´t need re-animation :)

Question: wouldn´t it be possible to power a standard SEQ V4 via the USB port? There are quite cheap USB hubs available, that give a bit more oompf than the USB-standard-specified 500mA power, that should be sufficient even for high-power backlit LCD displays.

Bye,

Peter

Edited by Hawkeye
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I'm inclined to agree with ilmenator and Hawkeye. With mains power, if you aren't 100% sure what you are doing, don't do it. You could fry your Seq and everything connected to it, or you could fry yourself or start a fire.

Go with USB power, or if that isn't enough how about a wall-wart?

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Haha, really thanks all of you to take care of me like that ! :flowers:

I understand my questions could appears really "kiddy", and for sure noobs :smile: (Maybe cause of my poor english vocabulary and language in general).

i will be really care (I already worked on a house to change interruptor, and did some electrical routing) i know what kind of dangerous thing the high voltgae can be.

I promise to be really care !

If i want to use this kind of internal PSU, it´s just to learn a lot of things, and because at the end i will only have just the power plug, no hub or something else. i´m a perfectionnist ! :rolleyes:

that´s the same for the enclosure, i don´t know anything about woodwork, but i will do a enclosure in one piece of mapple, cause i started my first project in Canada ! i will take my time, bur for the good thing !

So after, tell you my life... :whistle:

here is the link for the switch :

Mouser link

Datasheet link

i think i have to use "fat" cable between the plug entry and the psu entry.

18AWG will be good ?

Could i let out several cable from the 12V output ? for exemple :

+12V : 1 for the + of the LCP17, 1 for the switch, 1 for a fan to cool the PSU ?

Thx, and Bye

Edited by Lamouette
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Ok, as long as you promise to leave your left hand always in your back pocket, when working with this :)


(edit: schematics removed due to blown switch after Lamouette tried it, don´t want anyone get electrocuted :)


Regarding the wire - use 230v wire, as used for installing lamps in your house, they usually consist of a blue (hot phase) and black (neutral phase) stiff wire.

No guarantees on this one though. It may blow your household fuse, if I interpreted the datasheet wrong - the same manufacturer also offers the switch with a 12v lamp, probably for switching 12v lines. Hope you have the 230V one.

Best of luck!

Peter

Note: within an electric device, you are free to swap neutral and hot phase, because you never know which way the ac mains plug is plugged in. Just for household installations, you should make sure that the colors (black for neutral and blue for hot phase) are met, but i´ve seen quite a few installations over the years where the electricians were lazy.

PS: It would be wise to add a 220V / 0.5 Amps fuse on the "hot wire" before the transformer in. If the transformer coil has a short, it will otherwise blow your household fuse (happened to me last week with an unfused broken transformer). Edit: Forget that last sentence, i´ve just seen your open frame psu already has a fuse on its input. Very good! :)

Edited by Hawkeye
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ok, i do exactly your schema, but the button exploded ! :yes:

i will try another test tomorow ! i will go to sleep now, but i will purpose another schema tomorow ! see you later !!!

(That was a funny experience ! )

it's write 12 vdc near on the button, but also 120-240V so i think the led illuminated led need a 12V power that's why i purpose my last schema (see above)

see you !

also for my connectivity beeper : When it beep, there is signal or not ?

Bye

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Dude :sweat:! You shouldn ´t have turned it on, if it says 12V and you have only connected it to AC mains wires! :shocked: Great, that nothing else happened!

Did you measure before switching on? Two pins are switched together/connected, when the connectivity beeper beeps, if it does not beep not, they´re not connected.

Lesson learned: Never hook up a device to ac mains that connects neutral and live phase together, otherwise Kaboom :hairy:.

Hope the switch was not too expensive, please don´t reuse it in any other projects, it is fried now.

Why not just use a standard non-illuminated switch? The SEQ has enough lights to indicate function!

Or maybe rethink using USB power, it is safe, inexpensive and so on :)

Best of luck! :-)

Bye,

Peter

Edited by Hawkeye
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no, it was not an expensive switch, (by fear about not have suffisant part, i ordered 5 of them, so i have 4 try again ! ) :wink:

tonight i will first try to use the switch without illumination just to see if the voltage is good. after that i will mesure if i have 12V at the output of the PSU.

if yes i will connect the + of the 12Vdc to the free pin of the switch.

If i think good, it will be fine ! i give you some news new tonight if I dont burn the whole neighborhood :angel:

Bye

Edited by Lamouette
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Ok, for the next try,

a) using your connectivity beeper, before soldering, measure which two pins can be interupted by flicking the switch.

b) wire one of these pins to the ac inlet and protect with shrink tube

c) wire the other of these pins to the psu and protect with shrink tube

d) wire the other phase of the ac inlet to the other phase of the psu and protect with shrink tube.

This should make the PSU switchable. Please wear a saftey helmet, rubber gloves and leave your left hand in your back pocket :).

It may be that the light is already burning when switched on and wired like this. Maybe the third pin is an "alternating" switch port, which i believe by now.

Please do not back-connect the 12v output of the psu to the free pin of the switch, it cannot be that the light burns like this.

Best of luck!

Peter

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Don't connect 12V back to the switch. It will not work and will destroy your switch and probably the PSU too. The switch contacts are rated for 250V, but the bulb is only for 12V. You cannot use this switch illuminated unless you are only switching low voltage - which you are not. You can either use it without illumination, or get another switch. The similar RRA22H3BBREN has a bulb rated for 250V and will work with Hawkeye's schematic.

Please be careful! I still think you should use USB power or a wall wart....

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Gslug is absolutely correct,

I ´ve looked again at the datasheet, the lamp is 12V, but the switch is capable to switch 220V... that means...

if you want to use that lamp, just as gslug said, you can only switch low-voltage (12v)!

you can use the switch for 220V mains switching, but must leave the third pin open, meaning you cannot have switch illumination for this model.

Do not connect the third pin!

Edited by Hawkeye
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yes i understand that too after re-reading the datasheet 3 times. That´s a strange switch ! (how it could be use if it accept 250VAC but the led only work with 12VDC ? it´´s only for special application ? )

I have some same switch no illuminated in stock so i will use it for the moment. But i will try to find another reference who will work ! :sorcerer:

The RRA22H3BBREN is good but mouser don´t have it, i will wait !

Ok so tonight i will use normal switch, i hope my screens will lit !

More news later ! thanks for all ! :flowers:

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i have not had time yesterday to connect the screens, but the PSU switch work perfectly zith the on-illuminqted switch ! :frantics:

About the ground, is it important to connect the PSU on it (i will use an Aout modul;e so maybe it is important to have it to protect en reduce the parasite signal no?

The problem is, i only have on neutral and 1 phase input on my PSU, no ground !

To have the full brightness on my screen, should i connect the K pins directly on my ground on the Power input plug ?

Have a good day, Bye :ahappy:

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Ground from the Wall outlet is usually used to protect humans from malfunctioning electric devices in a metal case (thats why plastic appliances usually only have those smaller two-pin wall plugs).

The idea is, if a cable in a household device comes loose and the case is made from metal and grounded, the household fuse will blow and nobody can get electrocuted.

You usually don´t need ac mains ground for normal transformers in plastic cases.

If you also want to build/connect an aout module, you will need a -12/0/12V bipolar power supply - does your PSU also deliver these Voltages? As it is a switchmode PSU, you may need to filter output ripple with capacitors for better sound.

If you want to connect your LED backlight, and it is a 5V backlight, you connect the 0V/GND PSU output to the "K"(athode) and the 5V rail to the "A"(node) pins on the LCD, correct.

Bye,

Peter

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yes the PSU deliver 0V/+5V/+12V/-12V, i will mount the Aout module later (i will have a lot of quesiton again ! :blush: )

after the job, i mount the 2 screens on the PSU and the LCP17. i will see if my problem to detect the SD card comes from the insuffisant USB power.

i will also start to mount some screws on my front panel.

see ya ! Bye

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Can you send a datasheet link for your screens? My first MB-6582 backlit character LCD had A and K reversed.

This seems to be pretty common. Mine was the same. One of the pitfalls of Ebay LCDs is the lack of documentation!

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Yep hello !

i think that too, but i´m not really sure

the LCD : C-51850NFQJ-LG-ACN

Links for datasheets :

http://www.kyocera-display.com/SiteImages/PartList/SPEC/51850ace.pdf

http://www.kyocera-display.com/SiteImages/PartList/DRAWING/51850acd_drawing.pdf

as the ribon cable is linked for A and K, and i connect also the power on A and K, there isn´t a conflict ?

Invert the 2 pin on the ribbon cable couldn´t be suffisant ?

Bye

Edited by Lamouette
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