FantomXR Posted January 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Another good thing we will run in by using a handmade design is, that (as far as I know) all OLEDs use the same fpc connector and the same pinning. So the PCB could be easily adapted to every size the MB-user needs. Okay, the layout should be really fast ready to go. I will look for an eagle file for such a display. But maybe one of you already got one? This will safe a lot of work. Edited January 13, 2015 by FantomXR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 But maybe one of you already got one? nope, unfortunately me got nothin' (as usual) :smile: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 No prob. I can create an eagle package by myself... but now I need to go to work at least for a few hours. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Okay! I created a package in eagle and set up a little schematic. Maybe one of you could take a look at it. This should work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Nice! I checked: the reset line, and BS0-2, that looks good, it is too late for the rest now :) Maybe reduce J1 to a smaller footprint? 6 pins should be sufficient, imho. Many greets! Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Sure! I just took the big one for 1:1 pinning to the core. It can be easily adapted. See this pic: Just a simple layout without mounting holes, etc. My plan is, to make three boards for now: 1x OLED, 4xOLED and 8xOLED. I think this should cover most usecases. To connect them to the core I'd also design an adapter board to use standard ribbon cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojjelito Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 That's a very clear layout! Isn't it possible to make it more compact by folding the flex cable so that it wraps around the PCB edge and gets connected on the bottom side of the PCB? Also, to save space it would be possible to use a 1x7 pin row with one pin missing so the the connection gets keyed. Imagine a board like this, but where the pins are located in a row below the screen and there are no dog ears with mounting holes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) Short explanation: In Eagle blue connections are bottom and red connections are top layer. As you can see the SMD pins of the foilcable of the oled are blue, so bottom layer. I want to create a PCB where the connections on the foilcable are soldered to the bottom. Than of course fold it and glue the display to the top of the PCB. Eagle is not a 3D program so I can not add a "folded" foilcable. :smile: I created this oled after the datasheet. Your pic is not working at my side. What you mean by 7pin? The problem with this is, that there are no such cables available so you have to create them by yourself which is very time consuming. Midibox works with such ribbon connectors for years and it's proven to work the best. But you can adjust the layout after your needs (or I can do it, if you are not familiar with eagle) :) Edited January 14, 2015 by FantomXR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojjelito Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Ahh, gotcha! I've never been able to look past the AutoCAD 1980 interface horror of Eagle (well, that's my take on it) to get to those details so far :) I could maybe force myself to learn it, but there are modern alternatives out there that work better for me. If it fits, then by all means use it. Keyed connector: The 2x3 connector block gets keyed too if it sits in a shrouded connector: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 "keyed" means a protection against plugging the cable in the wrong way? sure! They connectors should have that! The 1-row-connectors are nice because they use less space but you won't get ready2go cables which are longer than 30cm. This might be to less (at least in my cases). But like I said: If the basics are working I can adjust that for you :) The first pic you posted is exactly what I want to achieve (besides the connector which is used there). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojjelito Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Yup. Keyed connectors for safety against plugging something in the wrong way are preferable. 2x3 or 1x6 or 1x7 with a gap doesn't matter if the connector sits so that it doesn't make the PCB larger. Keep the 2x3 connector block as it's easier to use with IDC flat cable that way. The only small issue is if someone believes it's an AVR ISP programmer port, but you can't be safe against everything :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Hahaha! Correct. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Looking awesome! If you want to ensure MB-LRE "diamond" configuration compatibility (i.e. to mount them in the 45° angle between the LEDrings), the PCB size should not be larger than 28x28mm and should be preferably quadratic in nature - to achieve that, the original boards had a "nose" cut out to accomodate the 180° bent connector cable, as it takes up room as well. Many greets! Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 do you have a photo of that cut? The thing is, that a board, which has cut outs and is not quadratic, in the end is much more expensive. We want a low cost solution. I will make new pcbs today evening. Should I add the resistor and cap on the reset line to every display if I out four displays on one pcb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) One cap/resistor is sufficient for the reset lines of four displays. I've attached a pic of the cutout - you can omit it, if you make the boards 28x26mm (26mm = the side where the connector is wrapped around). edit: i've remeasured with a digital caliper. make that 27x26mm - the display has a width of 26.75mm Many greets, Peter Edited January 14, 2015 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) do you have a photo of that cut?The thing is, that a board, which has cut outs and is not quadratic, in the end is much more expensive. We want a low cost solution.I will make new pcbs today evening. Should I add the resistor and cap on the reset line to every display if I out four displays on one pcb?Not really, with something that small, OSHpark can make them super cheap, no setup, and free shipping.. They simply ignore the cutout in the price and charge for the total rectangular area. Those should be $5.72 each ($17 for 3 including shipping) Edited January 14, 2015 by Altitude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmenator Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Not really, with something that small, OSHpark can make them super cheap, no setup, and free shipping.. They simply ignore the cutout in the price and charge for the total rectangular area. Those should be $5.72 each ($17 for 3 including shipping) But that again is almost more expensive than the display including a carrier board! OSHpark make great quality board and I recommend them wherever I can, but they are only cheap for prototyping a small number of boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 no worries, no cut-out is needed, as long as the shorter side (vertical) is 26mm :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 To me it sounds quite expensive. I tested seeed and elecrow a while ago. While it's difficult to communicate with the people from seeed, I have good experiences with elecrow. They offer: 10pc of green PCB in the size 10x10cm for $14,90. Shipping is $10 with airmail (7-24 days) and $25 with DHL (2-3 days). In the worst case I can get 4 carrier boards on one pcb (I think it will be 6... but... let's stay with the worst case) which makes a total of 40 boards. Total costs are $24,90 parted thru the numbers of PCBs we have a total of $0,63. This sounds good to me ;) It's even less if you do batch orders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Damn it! I just realized that other OLEDs have a totally different pinout and less pins (for smaller displays). Anyway... I'll keep you posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Here is a quick sketch of a possible 4x OLED layout. It has no mounting holes yet. The PCB could be cutted of if less than four displays are needed. I'm thinking about replacing the 10pin connector with a 16pin connector, to directly connect the core to one of this 4x_oled_module and add another connector on the other side that forwards the chip-select-lines which are not used on the first board. Would make sense I think, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 I did some changes on the layout. Because I want to put an order on the manufacture in the next days I please you, to doublecheck it. It's everytime again disappointing, to have a mistake in the layout and 10 pcbs for the trash (and money of course). So we could all safe time and nerves if some is able to check it. For testing reasons I would add the SMD-parts by myself for the start. If it works we could think about taking a PCBA service. I attached a shot of the layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Nobody is able to doulbecheck the layout? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FantomXR Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Dear community, again: I need your help! Meanwhile I ordered the PCB ad the display is not working. Could anybody please doublecheck the design and give an advice? Thanks! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuriken Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) I had a look at your design and the datasheet. It looks to me like your design is based on 1.6.2 - VCC generated by internal DC/DC Circuit. If i look at the table 3.2 DC Characteristics, it states that Vbat needs to be 3,5-4,2V. You are only supplying 3,3V. The interfacing examples all use 3,6V for Vbat. So maybe this could be the reason for the display not working. Edited May 25, 2015 by Shuriken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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