Jump to content

Need a LCD Display 240x64 for Yamaha RS 7000


spange187
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

 

Need a new LCD Display 240x64 for Yamaha RS 7000.

My know how is not enough, because of that i did not know whicth will be the right replacement part. 

 

I saw many displays that has the right number ob dots (240x64) but i don´t know if i could place everx display inside and it works...

 

for exampel i saw that parts: 

 

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/graphic-display/240x64-lcm-graphic-cog-lcd-module-display-panel-screen-with-driver-price-interface-datasheet-pinout-arduino-from-supplier-china

 

yamaha told me that the part number is: "ET-Number  WC53530R" if that can help....

 

Any one out there who knows and can help ?

 

Thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

short answer - nope cant help...but in service manual the LCD part of the LCD-Assembly is named:

LCD: EDMMR03Y00

 

 

 

get the service manual, maybe you find the correct Pin-Out of the Display...

you can get the wrong dimensions... maybe the mounting holes are not on the correct position.... for that you have to unmount the unit, and make some measure on your own.

 

Then when you unmount the lcd...maybe there is some more info on it...maybe a graphical chip, that can tell us more...

if you dont find out what Display it is  - you have to look into the service manual - pinout like i said.

 

good look

 

how ever this has nothing to do with midibox construction.

 

http://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_rs-7000_sm.pdf/download.html

 

"Display (LCD) 64 x 240 dot graphic LCD with backlighting and contrast control"

 

in the wiring sheet u see it is a 12pole(CN10) connector going to the LCD and a 2ple connector (CN17) (+5V Backlight)

 

we have to focus on CN10 ... the polarity of CN17 you can test with an Multimeter.

 

on site 18 of the service manual you can see that the Backlightpanel and the LCD panel are seperate parts

what brings me to the next step - is the backlight dead or the LCD?

 

on the site 28 you have the pinout of the LCD controller ... we want to find out the connector CN10 and the pinout of it... CN10 is situatet on the DM-Board....nope....no pinout in the manuel, so have to see on the chips - pinout.....

 

 

but bevore buy anything: take a look on the Block diagram on page 14: "cont.VR -12V" --- the contrast circuit is on the Digital Main board "DM"

 

so the crapical chip could be dead, the contrast circuit, the LED-Backlight, or the LED-Backlight - circuit (5V) - or the LCD-part

Edited by Phatline
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is probably an old school LCD with a T6963C controller and a separate EL foil for backlight. I suggest getting rid of the EL foil and disconnecting the transformer that drives the EL sheet. No more coil whine, better readabilty and more more repairs.

 

However, I suggest taking measurements of the screen assemblage and checking with some general forum like GearSlutz , or if there's some Yamaha forum where people might know.

Edited by jojjelito
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The failure mode of RM1x and RS7000 screens is when the ribbon cable starts unbonding from the LCD glass, leading to more and more lines of the screen.

 

In my experience it's not really repairable.

 

BTW, removing the EL foil definitely makes the LCD harder to read. I've never noticed any coil whine even when working on it with the case open.

 

Anyhow, go check out the RS7000 yahoo group in case you haven't already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a COG LCD on a sub-PCB it makes sense to remove the EL foil as those things are 100% pure evil. That is, provided you can get a LED-lit LCD instead. If it's connected with the foil cable to the motherboard things are definately more tricky.

 

I replaced the LCDs of all my old hardware with modern LED-lit LCDs. This let me remove the EL foil from most of the gear - sooner or later they will develop coil whine like the K5000s did, like the Wavestation A/D did... Plus the EL foil goes dim after some years, so that tech is trash. These days modern displays are available, back then things were grim and the LCDs poor compared to today's screens.

 

Edit: Did some checking here: http://www.yamahaforums.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4184 and it seems it's a case of EL foil - however, that's mainly talking abvout SY77/TG77/SY99. Replacements used to be available here: http://www.zinguy.com/lcdpage.htm but that's a standard 240x64 LCD with LED backlight and a T6963 controller IC. You can get those from Artronic in Poland, from DigiKey and Mouser if you look at their Newhaven displays, from TME.eu etc. Plus, Ebay and AliExpress vendors. Guess the poor RS7000 needs to be opened and looked at.

Edited by jojjelito
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spange187 - why don't you ask Yamaha to sell you a replacement LCD? It's also the same screen as the RM1x and the Portatone PSR-740.

 

jojjelito - that link you sent is for a Yamaha SY77/TG77.

 

I already confirmed that it has an EL foil ;)

 

FWIW, I've had two RS7000's for 12 years, and before that an RM1x for just as long - the EL foils get slightly dimmer with time but not drastically so. But as I said, none of the coils have ever made any noticeable noise.

 

 

btw, here are my crazy RS7000 mods:

 

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61662&sid=15c5a0bb97c38f034b75597d19706b9b

http://sneak-thief.com/nordrs7000.html

Edited by sneakthief
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

As jojjelito wrote, there *might* be a T6963C controller on the RS 7000 displays, but to confirm, someone would have to open it up and take a look. Methinks, there is a good chance, that there is, but I might be wrong. Artronic is a great place to buy modern T6963C variants with LED backlights (without EL foil)...

With jojjelitos help, I managed to replace two T6963C 240x64px displays in a Kawai K5000 and an E-MU E6400 ultra for cheap (~ 30€ each) in the last years, and it is a not very difficult process. But you might need to do some hardware hacking, e.g.

a) disable the EL high-voltage generator to avoid humming
b) build a small pot-trimmable manual contrast control (there is a schematic on artronic how to do this)
c) select the proper character height (small or large font) on the display, just solder a jumper/pad.
d) find and connect a power source for the LED backlight

Good luck!
Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...