Jump to content

'ELO board run through


latigid on
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pretty nice job! Very Abstract Concept that may find a lot of possible practical uses. (Who said Modulbox-ng?) Design very compact and chainable , and SMT pitch sounds accessible to hand soldering. Maybe surface mount transition for MBHP has already started ^^? What's about the BOM? i guess some 74HC*** but i wonder about capacitors/resistors when i see footprints? also SMT?
Good to see you managed to deal with HSV<>RGB conversion (wrote any conversion function? how did you passed H+V values in the end?). Good to hear about the voice comment too, helps a lot.
About taste, I especially love OLED 45° integration . One last question,at your advice would the encoder brightness be enough for daylight playin ?
Once again, pretty impressive!
Bests,
Jerome

Edited by Psykhaze
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

Pretty nice job! Very Abstract Concept that may find a lot of possible practical uses. (Who said Modulbox-ng?) Design very compact and chainable ,

Thanks, I hope that it's interesting for people. You could also choose to leave out things, e.g. no displays, no touch sensors, no LEDs or even no encoders. 

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

and SMT pitch sounds accessible to hand soldering. Maybe surface mount transition for MBHP has already started ^^?

In this case it was necessary to go to SMT to mount components on both sides. It's really not difficult as long as your solder is ~0.5mm for SOIC parts and you have flux on hand.

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

What's about the BOM? i guess some 74HC*** but i wonder about capacitors/resistors when i see footprints? also SMT?

The 8 chips are hex inverters with Schmitt trigger inputs (74HC14) and three gates are used per sensor. Square pads are resistors, rounded pads are caps, and there's two diodes in series in SOT-23. That way you can't reverse the polarity :).

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

Good to see you managed to deal with HSV<>RGB conversion (wrote any conversion function? how did you passed H+V values in the end?).

This is all TK.'s work here and here. Looking at the first one, maybe that's easy enough for me to hack some mods in.

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

Good to hear about the voice comment too, helps a lot.

A couple of mistakes, but it's the easiest way to explain.

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

About taste, I especially love OLED 45° integration .

I can't take credit for this, but it is a cool way of fitting displays in and have the corners "point" to the correct encoder.

 

6 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

One last question,at your advice would the encoder brightness be enough for daylight playin ?

I mentioned in the youtube description that these knobs are not the "preferred" transparent "Waldorf" type. You'll get much more light out of them (especially the sides) using these, although the diffused effect is also nice. It's always very difficult to capture LED colours; I think the video does a pretty good job but your eyes are better live than via 1080p video :).

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Psykhaze said:

A last (but not least) question : Is PCB eurorack compatible? (size?)
Bests,
JK

Board is 100*150mm, no problem for Eurorack.

 

10 hours ago, Phatline said:

good job!

i like the shading from dark to full brightnes with one color and that Pan-style with shading with 2 colors.

i am very interested into boards.

greats mike.

 

Thanks! 'ELO is pretty much ready to go, I just need to confer with Peter whether that's a good enough start for Programma or if he wants to work on the concept a bit more. If you're interested in PCBs and your own development I can send you some. The display driver is fine -- with one small bug that I mirrored the J15A connector. Not in the board file this time, but months before in the schematic...  It needs a workaround by either attaching the header pins to the bottom of the PCB or twisting pairs on the ribbon cable (only the first 6 wires of J15A). 

Best,
 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent work Andy!

I personally find the dark -> one bright colour  the most "readable" and logical for unipolar values i.e. 0% -> 100%

For bipolar values I think:

Left bright colour -> centre dark <- right birght colour

would be the most readable and logical.

Its great that we can change the script to suit our individual needs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...