Jump to content

Midibox MB6582 Newhaven OLED finally working :D


iZZE
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Just a quick update - i got the old driver from hawkeye but i could not get it to work on my MB6582.

Currently i am modifying the driver with a little more stopcycles and i added a filtering stage on the VFD with an 47uF, 100nF, 10nF, 1nF Cap directly going to +5V / GND.
I also added a ferrite cable shield near the VFD and it seems that now i get reasonable output.

Sometimes when there are fast changes i still have the display a little bit buggy but i will post the hex of the modified firmware (with V2.045) as soon as i get it more stable.

So i would recommend to all that are having problems to check their power supply and shielding.
If you use a switching regulator it is very likely that you have noise on your +5V Line - if you don't use a switching regulator it is very likely you don't have enough power to drive the VFD.
 

received_10213767495370007.thumb.jpeg.e3received_10213767428288330.thumb.jpeg.1a

Edited by iZZE
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad it works now and that you took my advice of filtering the power supply lines and adding the ferrite to the data lines. :-)

I never experienced the problem, because i am using a 78S05 capable of delivering 2 Amps and that is easily enough for the MB6582 (in conjunction with a heatsink) - i know why i sometimes prefer linear vregs and why i recommended it in about 5 of our 10 total private messages we exchanged on this matter :-). It is also a nice footwarmer in winter. :-)

@Altitude: this might explain your VFD troubles we had a few years back... the Recom switcher seems to be a bit RF-noisy and the VFDs seem to be easily distracted by that noise. In a non-midibox project also a few years back, i had severe troubles with another switching 780X replacement, that totally bombed the 433 MHz band, but that is another story...

Many greets,
Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok guys.. got it working now. Here is a short summary for those who would also like to give it a try:

 

Upload the attached "setup_mb6582_vfd.hex"  (its the newest V2.045 with hawkeyes driver and a couple of more stopcycles)

Solder a 47uF, 100nF, 10nF and 1nF Cap directly on the LCD (+5V / GND).

Put a ferrite on the cable near the plug of the LCD.

Before the ferrite put in an 56uH inductor into the cable - solder it and put a shrinktube over it to protect from shortcircuit.

 

 

I tried it now with very fast changes in Menus etc. etc. and it seems to be stable.

 

If you can't get it to work please also try to erase your pic and start from scratch (bootloader - mios / firmware - etc.) and don't change the LCD ID to 7 (like with the OLED) - just upload the setup_mb6582_vfd.hex.

If its still not working i can make a copy of my complete pic and send you the hex for burning a 1:1 copy of my pic.

 

Have a good weekend.

 

Capture.thumb.PNG.0f64cc93b9afe074952382Capture2.thumb.PNG.de025d2b33f76f57ae9fc

setup_mb6582_vfd.hex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Figured it out. :) Before, with the old LCD:

mb6582_lcd.thumb.jpg.80661bfab7ddafcfbbd

After installing OLED:

mb6582_oled1.thumb.jpg.c241daff2cb72affdmb6582_oled2.thumb.jpg.7538809aa7afd32ee

Only problem now is that the OLED display is much thinner than the LCD, hence sinking very deep into the panel. I will try 3d printing some bezel to cover for it to some extent. That's probably what I can do, save trying to raise the OLED panel from the PCB, which would likely fail miserably.

Edited by Johey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Hi there,

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but just to let anyone know who's researching this that I believe I've fixed the issue when using the Raystar OLED in 4-bit mode. :happy:

I was looking over the CLCD init sequence and something didn't seem right, so I made some changes and offered it as a pull request for to TK to review when he gets some free time:  https://github.com/midibox/mios8/pull/2

With these changes, you can keep the PIC ID set to the usual (no need for custom LCD driver) and you don't need to solder the bridges on the MB6582 to enable 8-bit mode.
You will also see the "READY." prompt after loading MIOS.

If you want to test this, I've attached a build of the latest version MIOS8 with these changes. This is what I'm using in my MB6582 with a Raystar REC002004AYPP5N00000.

I don't have any "normal"/old-style LCDs to test with this code, so I'd also appreciate anyone who has one to test this version of MIOS8 and confirm whether it works or not, as I don't want to break support for working screens of course :happy:

Thanks!

mios_p18f4685.hex

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...