latigid on

midiphy SEQ v4+

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Thanks for the nice feedback! Best of luck with the remaining pieces!

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When is the next round of cases expected? Will there be more next time? 

Thanks.

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Cases should be ready any day now. They were undergoing final painting this past week. The supply will also be limited, but the next run will be larger. Please consider that we don't have a proper warehouse, so it's impractical to store dozens at a time. We also made a slight revision to the plates to make OLED cabling easier. 

We understand that the cases are proving to be the bottleneck and we're working on the supply. Thanks for your patience! 

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 @mcmurray just a heads up, parcel tracking says batch #2 of the cases should be delivered tomorrow or on tuesday, will make them available in the shop, once they arrive.

As a new shop feature, you can now subscribe to "back in stock email push notifications", when you are logged in and are browsing the product detail page, e.g. of the case you want. Then you get an email instantly from the shop, when they are available.

There probably is more demand than supply for this second batch of cases again, but we've asked Adrian to make batch #3 a bit bigger. If you don't manage to get a case from batch #2, the next batch should be inbound again in another few weeks. We'll get there and finally stabilize supply.

Many greets,
Peter

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Cases are there and are going fast! 

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and finally, after 6 years or so of dreaming, here's another one.
really impressive work by everyone involved, thanks a lot for your hard work!

it's crazy how much difference it makes to a device when there is no compromise made for mass producabitily.
Andrian's cases have come a loong way since I got an Ambika case some years ago.

and i love the Matias switches, it's just the best way to program sequencers, like the Cherry MX on my Nava.
just wish all the MEC could be Mathias as well ;-) ...

now to actually learn the software after dry-reading the manual for years ;-)
(and waiting for Akai to implement multi-timbrality on the MPC so i can sequence it using the SEQ V4+)

5c78495984bd9_2019-02-2821.27.50.thumb.j

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Congrats! Did you go for the green/red or green/blue?

Best,
Andy

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6 hours ago, latigid on said:

Congrats! Did you go for the green/red or green/blue?

Best,
Andy

i went for the standard green/red scheme.
but now seeing the finished product i think a cyan/blue/white color scheme would fit better with the case colors.
since i want to reflow some of the Matias switches anyway to satisfy my OCD for perfect positioning (now in the case i see some of the gaps are not perfect ;-) )
i could  maybe modify the color resistors from the back as well? is the color selection already discussed anywhere on the forum?

Cheers,
Gerhard
 

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Finished a left handed V4+ yesterday! :-)

V4+.jpg

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@gbrandt It should be possible to swap the RJs from 1:3 even without disassembly. But you've probably used position 1 for SJs, meaning if you don't use the red LED, the MEC switches will also need to go to the same position as was done for the red.

For RJs, 1 = red, 2 = green, 3 = blue. For easiest hardware mapping, the MEC SJ should always be the same number for whichever RJ1|2|3 -> A.

The least work might be to desolder the RJ A->1 resistor and cross the [new] resistor over the top of the "B -> 2" resistor, so A -> 3. Then on the SJs, swap the resistor from 1 to 3. This would keep the hardware mapping the same.

To do a tidy job and make A -> 2, B -> 3, the LED colour functions will be inverted as you see at the moment, but I think you can swap them in software. For completeness, if you do the tidy job method, then the SJ should connect to #2 for all MECs. 

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hi,
next question:

i'm testing the USB OTG port now using an Akai LPK25.

so far no luck, i don't even get power when i switch to OTG. any hints how to get this working?

cheers,
southpole (i changed my display name now to the moniker i use in the synth DIY world)
 

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Hello, OTG works with some things and not so well with the others.

First to check the power jumper on the USB board is stuffed? Note: this is a very basic spec for OTG (no overcurrent regulator etc.). So please be sure that you know what you're doing!

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hi,

ok so i stuffed the jumper marked OTG on the core breakout. the LPK25 now briefly flashes once i supply power, but i get a MIDI TIMEOUT message on the display.

but it was an opportunity to test the red LED on the core breakout ;-)

do you have a list of devices that are known to work with your OTG implementation?

btw. at the same time i have a few comments on the case:

- maybe it would be good to convince Adrian to reduce the number of screws by half and cut real threads instead. i don't think all the screws are really needed and the self-tapping screws leave quite some metal shavings in the case as i found out after re-opening. those could perhaps lead to shorts at some point.

- the bottom slots for standoffs under the MIDI8 module are 1cm too far inside and should be moved to fit the board in future cases. i think for longterm operation it is important to stabilize this long board also in the middle and not just at the ends.

cheers!
 

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Posted (edited)

4 hours ago, southpole said:

do you have a list of devices that are known to work with your OTG implementation

Normally all USB MIDI devices, not the ones which need specific Driver. and not the ones which have an internal HUB. The LPK25 should work, maybe try external power. Andy knows where to find necessary cable.

 

4 hours ago, southpole said:

cut real threads instead

This will add some cost cause thread a M3 is impossible on this metal thickness, a threading needs a minimum length equal to the diameter, this will oblige Adrian to add surface mounted stand-off which is an extra service from manufacturer.
For self-tapping screws, there's no more metal shaving once the threading is done, I also noticed that and used a vacuum cleaner to avoid any risk ;)

 

4 hours ago, southpole said:

i think for longterm operation it is important to stabilize this long board also in the middle and not just at the ends

I've got a lot of MIDI8, connected to m16 interface, they are in two prototypes, screwed only at the ends, and I ask them a lot(connect/reconnect several times), so far I have not had any problem.

Best regards
Bruno

Edited by Antichambre

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Looks like the LPK25 can be battery powered as well? I don't have any experience with this device sorry, so I can't help you there.

The current case revision should have correctly positioned cutouts to support the edges of the MIDI8 board. It's not possible to use the central mounting points as these would conflict with the rack version/blind plate metal. Older cases could be drilled out if really required.

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it's not the bluetooth version which probably has batteries, it's the "old" LPK25 that has ONLY a mini-USB connector, nothing else, no batteries. i played around a bit more now and got it sort of working after setting all the MIDI channels correctly :-) it is still very flaky as i get midi timeouts and step recording gives randomly 0,1 or 2 events on each key press. not really suitable for live use but i'm confident at least the soldering is ok :-) i will continue to try.

speaking of batteries ;-)

there seems to be some space in the case under the right leMEC :-)
 

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On 3.3.2019 at 0:16 PM, southpole said:

and the self-tapping screws leave quite some metal shavings in the case

This indicates wrong handling of self-tapping screws. (Even when inserting these the first time, usually no metal is sheared off.)

When re-inserting the screws, metal shavings indicate that you have tried to cut new threads, which is bad because after the second or third time you will have basically ruined the thread or the screw (or both) and the case will no longer hold together. Therefore, to avoid this , you need to do the following: when putting the case back together, insert the screw loosely and turn it counterclockwise with the screwdriver until it sinks down into the thread (!) - only then start driving in the screw with a clockwise rotation. You'll notice that the screw moves without much resistance, as it does not cut a new thread but just enters the existing one. Now you only need to make sure not to overtighten the screw and you're good. No metal shavings and no problems even after opening up the case many times...

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well the material from the first cut is not just compressed, some of it is displaced and forms a circular burr. for sure i paid attention not to use much force at reinsertion and reuse the existing threads, but on some of the holes this circular burr from the first cut got fully detached on the reinsertion.

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On 01/03/2019 at 1:56 PM, latigid on said:

@gbrandt It should be possible to swap the RJs from 1:3 even without disassembly. But you've probably used position 1 for SJs, meaning if you don't use the red LED, the MEC switches will also need to go to the same position as was done for the red.

For RJs, 1 = red, 2 = green, 3 = blue. For easiest hardware mapping, the MEC SJ should always be the same number for whichever RJ1|2|3 -> A.

Hi Andy,

i would like to keep the red LED after all, meaning i would go for red/cyan/white scheme. in this case, if i understand correctly, i simply need to add another RJ going B-->3, correct?

i tried this and it looks very cool but the blue component is too strong even with a 100 ohm resistor in RJ B->3. i don't really see the green admixture anymore. should i try a larger resistor (any experience here?) or do i need to add also something to SJ ?

(in fact, i am not sure how SJ come into the game, could you perhaps share the part of the schematic showing a leMEC switch "column"?)

cheers,

southpole
 

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10 hours ago, southpole said:

well the material from the first cut is not just compressed, some of it is displaced and forms a circular burr. for sure i paid attention not to use much force at reinsertion and reuse the existing threads, but on some of the holes this circular burr from the first cut got fully detached on the reinsertion.

Yes, I got shave too, even if I also paid attention to respect the thread. It remains maybe some burr from the the pre-made drilling or its hole diameter was a bit small. Anyway, if you take care to remove the shaves, no problem.

Best regards
Bruno

 

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another question regarding the Matias LEDs. i find the bleed is quite strong. so i did my homework and went back to read the entire design thread and i know this was considered and the current solution is the best possible. but i still wonder if anybody has tried to isolate, for example by painting the sides black? i don't see much space to insert light shielding, due to the caps.

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and one more thing ;-) we should talk battery ;-)
to be fully portable it would be great to have a battery.
for example, a mobile phone power bank could be attached with velcro tape under the right leMEC. there are some that switch automatically between charging and discharging. but i am not sure if / where it can be hooked up to the core? and we would need a switch which i know was decided against. but it should be easy to retrofit a round latching switch above the core breakout just to attach / detach the power bank.

together with a WiFI SD card and Yamaha wireless MIDI plugs we would have a completely wireless SEQ V4+, that could be played like a keytar. for example.

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1 hour ago, southpole said:

another question regarding the Matias LEDs. i find the bleed is quite strong. so i did my homework and went back to read the entire design thread and i know this was considered and the current solution is the best possible. but i still wonder if anybody has tried to isolate, for example by painting the sides black? i don't see much space to insert light shielding, due to the caps.

I'm currrently building a V4+ and also thinking about painting the external sides of the DSA keycaps (probably in white to match the case, which should block the light sufficiently). I think it would provide a clearer indication for the eye, and shouldn't be difficult with some spraypaint, varnish and good masking tape application. Painting the internal sides is not a good idea IHMO, as applying tape inside the caps would be almost impossible to do accurately. Or maybe painting the inside in black with a small brush, and the outside with white spraypaint?

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3 hours ago, gotkovsky said:

I'm currrently building a V4+ and also thinking about painting the external sides of the DSA keycaps (probably in white to match the case, which should block the light sufficiently). I think it would provide a clearer indication for the eye, and shouldn't be difficult with some spraypaint, varnish and good masking tape application. Painting the internal sides is not a good idea IHMO, as applying tape inside the caps would be almost impossible to do accurately. Or maybe painting the inside in black with a small brush, and the outside with white spraypaint?

i wasn't thinking of touching the caps but rather the switches themselves, around the shafts above the mezzanine below the caps. there seems to be some space even with depressed switch.
on my Ambika i treated some LED lightpipes that were close to each other with shrink tube like that with good results. if we can find large enough shrinktube maybe rings can be cut and put on. this would however involve removing the caps again which i'm reluctant to do because i think the required force would be quite large and pull on the two little soldered legs ...

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