latigid on

midiphy SEQ v4+

364 posts in this topic

5 hours ago, southpole said:

Hi Andy,

i would like to keep the red LED after all, meaning i would go for red/cyan/white scheme. in this case, if i understand correctly, i simply need to add another RJ going B-->3, correct?

This can be done, but now you are splitting the current through the green and blue LEDs. It will be slightly higher through two LEDs than one, but the current passing through each will be lower than if there was just one LED.

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

i don't really see the green admixture anymore.

I don't understand the question: if you have the combo RJs, (red, green+blue), then your colours are red + cyan. Normally the green will be stronger than the blue, so the blue needs a smaller resistor value. Play around with the resistor values to suit your brightness/colour preference.

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

should i try a larger resistor (any experience here?)

Peter @Hawkeye might have a suggestion as he tried this first.

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

or do i need to add also something to SJ ?

It's got nothing to do with any SJ. Just match the SJ to whatever is on the RJ A buss (red/1).

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

(in fact, i am not sure how SJ come into the game, could you perhaps share the part of the schematic showing a leMEC switch "column"?)

Try on the troubleshooting thread; also as explained above the SJ just connects to the A buss. If you connect an SJ to the B buss, then you have to reconfigure the LEDs in the HWCFG file.

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

another question regarding the Matias LEDs. i find the bleed is quite strong. so i did my homework and went back to read the entire design thread and i know this was considered and the current solution is the best possible. but i still wonder if anybody has tried to isolate, for example by painting the sides black? i don't see much space to insert light shielding, due to the caps.

 

2 hours ago, gotkovsky said:

I'm currrently building a V4+ and also thinking about painting the external sides of the DSA keycaps (probably in white to match the case, which should block the light sufficiently). I think it would provide a clearer indication for the eye, and shouldn't be difficult with some spraypaint, varnish and good masking tape application. Painting the internal sides is not a good idea IHMO, as applying tape inside the caps would be almost impossible to do accurately. Or maybe painting the inside in black with a small brush, and the outside with white spraypaint?

Sure, try it and post results!

 

5 hours ago, southpole said:

and one more thing ;-) we should talk battery ;-)
to be fully portable it would be great to have a battery.
for example, a mobile phone power bank could be attached with velcro tape under the right leMEC. there are some that switch automatically between charging and discharging. but i am not sure if / where it can be hooked up to the core? and we would need a switch which i know was decided against. but it should be easy to retrofit a round latching switch above the core breakout just to attach / detach the power bank.

together with a WiFI SD card and Yamaha wireless MIDI plugs we would have a completely wireless SEQ V4+, that could be played like a keytar. for example.

Sure, give it a go. You could connect the battery power to the internal USB micro plug of the Waveshare 407v. Would the battery packs sense an external charge from the normal SEQ v4+ USB B plug and charge that way? Not sure...  You could wire the +5V on the wCore (e.g. the micromatch connector) to an SPDT with one side to the battery and the other to the USB breakout PCB.

Do you intend to connect through USB to a computer etc.? If not, why not just plug the power bank into the USB B?

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, latigid on said:

Sure, try it and post results!

see below B-)
i picked 100 ohm on steps 1,5,9,13 and 220 ohm on the remaining steps for blue,
giving a brighter blue on the downbeat and a slightly darker cyan on the other steps.

looks better in reality than on the image.

4 hours ago, latigid on said:

Do you intend to connect through USB to a computer etc.? If not, why not just plug the power bank into the USB B?

yes, i was hoping to charge AND connect via the USB port simultaneously.
then unplug and take the sequencer to the club to play my set (i wish).
sure, plugging the bank externally is the trivial solution but it's one more item+cable to think of.

2019-03-05 22.40.59-1.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Hello,

I contacted Signature Plastic to know if produce a custom keycap for the SeqV4+ might be interesting, if it's not too  much expensive.
It seems we can get some for a correct price, but I need 10 people interested to reach an order of 320 keys(10 Sets).
This is what I asked for:

  • DSA with ALPS mount (of course)
  • PBT material, White.
  • Round LED window.

IMG_5297__43437.1456868178.500.659.JPG?r  and Lens%20Keys-choice.JPG?raw=1
10 people is a minimum.
Price will be something like 35-40$ for a set of 32 keys.

Tell me is you're interested, it will be better than trying to paint the transparent keys ;)

Check the bulk here.

Best regards
Bruno

Edited by Antichambre

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I'm interested,... but the LED window is way to small for me. So I don't think this is an option for me, although I understand the feeling about the shining through the neighbour knobs.

Last weekend I did my first gig with the sequencer, There was a lot of smoke, lasers and other flashing lights and I totally loved the big coloured buttons, it felt very sturdy/secure! So obvious what you are doing :)...

kernafval-live.jpg

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Just now, Elektruck said:

I'm interested,... but the LED window is way to small for me. So I don't think this is an option for me, although I understand the feeling about the shining through the neighbour knobs.

Unfortunately because of the mount, this is the maximum diameter of the lens in this position(above mount), as you can see on the picture it can be bigger but placed on the corner only.
I don't like the rectangular one(909 like) cause the SeqV4+ has girly shape ;) It is round everywhere.
I propose it to people here as we can try it at first time, maybe resistance will need to be adjusted for more light, I don't know, just need 10 people in this order as we can try it, but think the keycap will be white inside too the light will flow enough I think. Need to be tried, need 10 guys! ;)

Are you in?

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Posted (edited)

I finally installed the two OLED which were missed, it's clearly better than regular LCD.
I made some wood sides too, in a very hard African wood which has blue veins , I stained in white("lasure" in french not sure of the English word).
Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2007%2017.jpeg
Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2008%2026.jpeg
Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2007%2052ok.jp

This is more white in the daylight, outside.

Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2017%2026.jpeg


Here the autocad DXF file, I can explain which tool I used, and what are the depths for each cut. A CNC is necessary.

wood_sides_dxf.png?raw=1

A raw pair, with a view of the internal milling.
Fichier%2007-03-2019%2020%2016%2011.jpeg

Best regards
Bruno

Edited by Antichambre
dxf file added
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5 hours ago, Antichambre said:

Hello,

I contacted Signature Plastic to know if produce a custom keycap for the SeqV4+ might be interesting, if it's not too  much expensive.
It seems we can get some for a correct price, but I need 10 people interested to reach an order of 320 keys(10 Sets).

Cool idea, but I also think that the led windows are way too small, sorry… I'm almost sure that I'll paint the caps in white, inside and outside if I can, leaving the top unpainted, and will post the results here (probably next week).

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Posted (edited)

12 hours ago, Elektruck said:

but the LED window is way to small for me.

7 hours ago, gotkovsky said:

but I also think that the led windows are way too small,

would this be more suitable ?

dsa_large_rounded_wind.jpg?raw=1

Of course , it's also possible to mount it in the opposite orientation to get the window down.

Check the bulk here.
 

Edited by Antichambre

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9 hours ago, Antichambre said:

Tell me is you're interested, it will be better than trying to paint the transparent keys ;)

 

I'm definitely interested in a set of white keys with LED windows.  I do like the latest example you posted, but I'd be willing to go in on either set.

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Posted (edited)

Signature plastic answered me there's no additional cost for this LED window shape. So this is possible!

dsa_large_rounded_wind.jpg?raw=1
 

Join the bulk here.

Edited by Antichambre

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10 hours ago, Antichambre said:

I made some wood sides too, in a very hard African wood which has blue veins , I stained in white("lasure" in french not sure of the English word).

beautiful! i plan to make wood sides, too, but at a much steeper angle (45 degrees) and i don't have a CNC so i will probably use a thin plywood spacer.
can i ask where do you buy nice wood in France? i checked in all the .*brico.* (regular expression) markets in my region and can't find anything nice and there is no good negocé around here.

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10 hours ago, Antichambre said:

Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2007%2017.jpeg

 

Bruno, that's an extremely sexy sequencer! Chapeau! 

 

You understand, that we are invested in the clear caps now. But if you would like to try with the small windows, please go ahead. We actually have a set of "relegendable" caps that are intended for the LoopA, so maybe that could accomplish the same thing with a mostly opaque top? Hmm, but the sides would still be clear...

One idea I had was to have a plastic "light blocker" part machined from opaque acrylic (e.g. black) and to put that just underneath the keycaps i.e. on top of the plate PCBs. I don't know how much vertical spacing there is for a depressed key, which would determine the thickness of the acrylic. Bruno, would you like to try and cut one? I could send you the DXF for the plate.

 

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13 hours ago, Elektruck said:

I'm interested,... but the LED window is way to small for me. So I don't think this is an option for me, although I understand the feeling about the shining through the neighbour knobs.

Last weekend I did my first gig with the sequencer, There was a lot of smoke, lasers and other flashing lights and I totally loved the big coloured buttons, it felt very sturdy/secure! So obvious what you are doing :)...

kernafval-live.jpg

Wow!

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Just now, southpole said:

beautiful! i plan to make wood sides, too, but at a much steeper angle (45 degrees) and i don't have a CNC so i will probably use a thin plywood spacer.
can i ask where do you buy nice wood in France? i checked in all the .*brico.* (regular expression) markets in my region and can't find anything nice and there is no good negocé around here.

I go in Africa for work sometimes so those pieces of 'Okoumé were brought back in my luggage from Gabon. Otherwise I've got a woodworker near here who sell me some pieces of rare wood essence when he has it. But it depends on what you want exactly. 
I'm in the "Landes" so there's woodworker every 50m here ;) Anyway try to find one near to you place, I never find it in "brico" supermarket ;)

If you want something naturally 'white' you can take ash(frene), beech(hetre) or more grey is walnut(noyer) can be a light grey by treatment. This is all local essence.

Best regards
Bruno

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8 minutes ago, latigid on said:

One idea I had was to have a plastic "light blocker" part machined from opaque acrylic (e.g. black) and to put that just underneath the keycaps i.e. on top of the plate PCBs. I don't know how much vertical spacing there is for a depressed key, which would determine the thickness of the acrylic. Bruno, would you like to try and cut one? I could send you the DXF for the plate.

Funny I also already thought about this and planned to do it even in the eventuality of produce the custom keycap, cause I think neighbor will be polluted anyway., Send me your dxf, if it's already done.
I can try with a 3/4mm black Plastic if it remains me some. I will mill it to get some gap with the pressed keycap position, the keycap will go inside and let 1mm(always 3/4 mm high) around the body of the switch. 5mm high will be complicated cause there's a gap of 0.25mm between the body switch and the internal size of the keycap. but 4mm should be fine.
Send me what you've got, I will make the 3D as you can validate it... I will maybe have to order some plastic...

 

19 minutes ago, latigid on said:

Bruno, that's an extremely sexy sequencer! Chapeau! 

Thank you! ;)

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@latigid on  It remains me some black acrylic of 3mm thickness, I can already try with it and see what happens...

Fichier%2007-03-2019%2023%2048%2032.jpg?

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Great! I wonder though if it would be better to use a foam (although those go bad after a few years), rubber or other soft material, as we also have to take care of the diodes on the plate PCB? I think a laser cutter/waterjet would be needed though.

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Great job, Bruno, Elektruck and southpole! Sorry for my absence, we were moving and I still have to unpack a lot of boxes until normal operations can proceed :).

Because there was a discussion ongoing regarding resistors for color mixing and lowering the resistor values e.g. for custom keycaps with smaller windows - the superflux LEDs should be able to withstand more current, and in my experimentation i went as low as 10R for blue and green (use a higher value for red!) - but then the currents are way out of datasheet specs - you are on your own, then! :-) Imho it would be best to play safe and go for 47R, then these LEDs should have a very high life expectancy and the superflux brightness is then also somewhat balanced with the brightness of the OLEDs and the matrix displays.

To achieve the red/cyan mix as seen in the first tutorial video, you can use a single resistor going from A to 1 (red color for the running step indication) and another single resistor going from B to 2 AND 3 (cyan color for the "step has a note" indication). That second resistor results in a blue-ish cyan, as the forward voltages of blue and green are slightly different, green will not be as bright as blue. You could also try with three resistors (there is a second hole in modern LeMEC boards or you could just attach to the same pin) for fine-tuned color mixing.

Have a good evening!
Many greets, Peter

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Just now, latigid on said:

it would be better to use a foam (although those go bad after a few years), rubber or other soft material, as we also have to take care of the diodes on the plate PCB?

It will difficult to precisely cut foam for the thickness we have to achieve. no problem for the diodes I already have to mill both sides for the switches 'stopper' under the 'no copper' area.
Can you share this 'no copper' area size too?

 

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Posted (edited)

@latigid on

Should be something like this:
light_blocker.jpg?raw=1

front X-ray view
light_blocker_xray.jpg?raw=1

I'm not sure 3mm will be enough high but I can already make and try one piece.

Will be free but help me to try the custom keycap in return ;)

Best regards
Bruno

Edited by Antichambre

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1 hour ago, Antichambre said:

I'm in the "Landes" so there's woodworker every 50m here ;) Anyway try to find one near to you place, I never find it in "brico" supermarket ;)

If you want something naturally 'white' you can take ash(frene), beech(hetre) or more grey is walnut(noyer) can be a light grey by treatment. This is all local essence.

i see, this explains why the "nicest" wood i found so far is plywood from pin des Landes :-)
the Okoumé they sell here is really sad quality with layers coming loose and i'm sorry they transported it so far even if it is called "nautical"...
one local option i have is to go into the Jura and buy directly epicea from a saw mill - this was good for much of my furniture, but it's too soft and crude (noeuds) for synthesizer/sequencer cheeks.

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Just now, southpole said:

i see, this explains why the "nicest" wood i found so far is plywood from pin des Landes :-)
the Okoumé they sell here is really sad quality with layers coming loose and i'm sorry they transported it so far even if it is called "nautical"...
one local option i have is to go into the Jura and buy directly epicea from a saw mill - this was good for much of my furniture, but it's too soft and crude (noeuds) for synthesizer/sequencer cheeks.

Try this maybe:
https://www.laboutiquedubois.com/interieur-233/panneau-et-planche-408/panneau-bois-massif-1.html

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Posted (edited)

Hi,

I change the concept, the 3mm mask(light blocker) is put on the bolt 2mm over the pcb to get the mask highest as possible.
It stops the light correctly between the switches body, but the keycap itself diffuses the light to its closest little friends, so it's not a perfect solution.

This is the mask, the highest part is very thin 0.3mm to fit inside the keycap when pressed.
Fichier%2008-03-2019%2016%2034%2017.jpeg

It's mounted on top of the existing bolt to get a 2mm spacing to the pcb, I change the standoff for some with longer threading.
Fichier%2008-03-2019%2016%2037%2026.jpeg

Here the result:

Fichier%2008-03-2019%2016%2038%2013.jpeg

It's a bit better, but not perfect.
This mask needed 4 hours of machining and it's not possible to make it with a laser cutting.
We need a keycap with non transparent sides... humm...
I'm sure a white keycap with this large LED window they accepted to produce for us will be better than others complicated solutions, please guys don't let me alone with this ;)
I will do it anyway but it will cost me so much more. It's just 10 people for a descent price ;)


Best regards
Bruno
 

Edited by Antichambre

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Fast work! IMO the bleed is okay even without any blocking, and with the blocker it would satisfy 99.9% of users as shown in your image -- even using clear caps. We can always strive for perfection, but the basic goal here is to clearly indicate the state of a step.

Given the complexity (and fragility) of the designed piece, I wonder if it's actually an over-engineered solution? Simpler and cheaper would be to use some reflective tape on the topside edges of the Matiases. This is less fancy and more hackish, but might do the trick. As a benefit, you might get a bit of reflection and increase the brightness slightly.

This is just my observation/opinion. Don't let me discourage you from building the instrument of your dreams :).

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Posted (edited)

3 hours ago, latigid on said:

Fast work!

The machine was still switched on ;)
 

3 hours ago, latigid on said:

Given the complexity (and fragility) of the designed piece, I wonder if it's actually an over-engineered solution?

Yes it's fragile, not over- engineered I simplified it in fact, it was only one side to cut. It's just a lot of time, cause the bit used is a 1mm diameter and I have to be around and check for first run.
In fact removing the keycap without damage the switches was the more difficult ;)
 

3 hours ago, latigid on said:

Simpler and cheaper would be to use some reflective tape on the topside edges of the Matiases. This is less fancy and more hackish, but might do the trick. As a benefit, you might get a bit of reflection and increase the brightness slightly.

Did you try it?
 

3 hours ago, latigid on said:

Don't let me discourage you from building the instrument of your dreams :).

I need more to be discouraged, I will not lie, since the beginning I do not like transparent caps, all, MEC and ALPS, it is in my mind to change them since you sent me the first board ;) Yes I'm a bit suborn sometimes.

Anyway, the machine is always in position and the code is done now then if you want a pair of blocker tell me, the machine will do it alone.....

Best regards
Bruno

Edited by Antichambre

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