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how to solder the FM chips on a protoboard ?


ladybug
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hi,

SMD devices can be easily terminated with 0.25 mm diameter enamel coated wire, the type used for winding coils and transformers.

-Strip the wire 1mm from the end by dipping it in molten solder on the soldering iron tip.

-Avoid breathing the fumes and wipe the excess solder off the soldering iron tip.

-Tin the leads of the IC using fresh solder.

-Wipe the excess solder off the soldering iron tip again.

-Re-tin the tip of the iron, then bring the wire to the IC lead, and apply the tip of the iron.

If done right, the junction heats instantly and sufficient solder flows to form a perfect joint.

It happens very quickly, and reletively little heat is transferred into the IC chip itself so it is safe.

A DIP adapter can be made using this technique to terminate the IC to a low cost DIP socket. (keep the wires short in length).

Various methods can be used to provide extra mechanical robustness to the finnished product e.g generous coatings

of circuit laquor, epoxy resin, etc.

I have recently completed my MBFM control surface using this technique to wire all SMD versions of the DINs and DOUTs shift register chips directly to the control surface matrixboard with encoders, LEDs and buttons. It makes for a very compact and concise assembley with a single 6 conductor ribbon connecting the control surface to the Core. I'll have photos for my "Midibox of the Week" entry soon!

cheers

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Another exemple on how you can do it.

If you go carrefuly, with patience, waiting a little bit before soldering two IC leads (to avoid getting the device too hot and damage it).

http://www.axoris.be/MissParkerPlus/pics/AL3201.jpg ... Ok, I agree, looks like a spider with such long legs, but anyway, it works.... :P

Xanboroon

spider.jpg

[glow=limegreen,2,300]They are coming[/glow]

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my idea:

1. take square piece of styrofoam. make sure to have a second one that's just like that.

2. take chip and put it on its back on the styrofoam. push it in until it's totally in the styrofoam and the legs are level with the styrofoam

3. take the chip out and put a drop of glue where it was. put chip back in and let it stick

4. take electronics pins or whatever and space them out around the chip by pushing them through the styrofoam. glue them in that position. make sure there's at least 2 mm of the pin standing out on the chip side and at least 5 mm on the other side, for soldering.

5. connect the chip to the bolts with nice copper wire (single-strand! much more precise to work with. get a thick one, one strand at least 0.5 mm)

6. make sure all the connections are working great - this is your last chance to fix stuff!

7. cover the whole chip side with glue, and one side of the spare piece of styrofoam. connect and let it dry off

i think the best glue for this is the kind that's two-ingredient and turns out rubbery, not hard and resinous.

what you get is a nice, indestructible chip that fits on a proto board.

pros are that it's pretty stable and that you can't possibly burn it. unless you're less than a newbie ;)

cons are that the pinout is kinda reversed (unless you make the pins go through the other piece of styrofoam instead - but that'd make it harder to have the pins stick in a stable way) and that you can't open it anymore.

sorry, no pictures!

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