Jump to content

old discussion: making drumpads


nym
 Share

Recommended Posts

modnar that composition looks REALLY good, but according to frontpanel it'd cost me close to 150...i'd be willing to make that kind of money appear but it might take a while.

i will get you measurements, got to run and get myself a measuring tape that doesn't measure in ass backwards notation

checkin out sparkfun right now. i remember seeing a monome video and waking up with foamed saliva around my mouth, with one leg twisted underneath my body. goddamn pleasure seizures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

measurements (tell me if more are needed)

1 pad (the visible surface, not the factory lip: 22 mm tall by 30 wide.

individual sensor (copper active area): 13 by 13 mm

sensor bank: 150 mm by 118 mm

individual sensor rectangle: 37 mm wide, 29.5 mm tall.

space between sensor board and faceplate: just over 2 mm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've made significant ground on my own front as well.

soon to be trying 2 new products which might make things easier

i actually got in touch with Frank Eventoff, guy who invented the Interlink FSR and coordinated their use w/ roger linn in the original mpcs. very nice guy, i actually called him at home and got his wife, who was kind enough to give my cell number to him. we had a pleasant chat, dude knows his stuff. i'd love to work for him someday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

new product as in velostat replacing AND mold building for the rubber!!!

i've figured out how to do this soooo much more simply

found these resistive sensors w/ long life (as long as fsrs) which function the exact same way using this shtuff from japan called inastomer. and get this - remember how much trouble i was having with the mold? these things solve all my problems by BEING ROUNDED THEMSELVES. they actually come with a rounded rubber padlike trigger overtop of the inastomer/active area. so now i'll be putting another layer of rubber (the pad) overtop the domed rubber (the sensor) overtop the metal frame.

i'll just be removing the original akai sensors altogether for the "delux" package

the akai active area made for all kinds of performance problems and longterm durability issues. this new scheme takes a lot of the load off the damn mold making too, now the mold is much easier to make. my dad's got a workshop, i'm 100% capable of building a mold myself in his basement with the materials he has there. i can even get fancy and do lettering/custom images for people...

including graphics or words

think about it - pads with hieroglyphics on em...an eyeball, a marijuana leaf, anything all these hip hop thugnerds love.

daaaamn, folks - especially modnar

so excited about this i'm nearly incontinent

as for mr eventoff, it may be that i didn't need to make the contact, but i would love to talk to him anyway to share what i've done and to offer my thanks for his contribution to the world of electronic instruments. i'll definitely post what he has to say.

peace guys

nym

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...