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8xSID MB-SID PCB (aka. MB-6582) - request for comments


Wilba
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Heh you know, just as I was typing that, I though that NY or London or something might have more too, if only because of population...but then I thought about it and couldn't think of many from those cities around here, and I figure that per-capita we still have the most, so until they join the forum and get chatting we Melburnians are stealing the crown  ;D heehehhe

I always thought the Frappr map was cool, and seems to have been pretty heavily beefed up since I added myself... I can't find my own pin at the moment though... Map images are down... And lots of people aren't on it yet :'(

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If I wait long enough, there'll be a batch of 50 made!

Where are you guys getting all the SIDs? Or are you happy to have less than eight?

I'm still on my trip, nothing's happening at the moment... Anyone live in Oslo? I'm going there tomorrow... anyone in Oslo can email me at I_love_spam@gmail.com (joke! just PM me or post your phone number in this thread).

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I'm also in for a groupbuy of both PCBs (if there is also one for the front PCB).

Also on the frontpanel if there will be one.

I have only 2 SIDs (8580) but maybe I can get more until I stuff the PCB. :)

!Right!  I started collecting more... I've got 6 SID's now... paint me eager

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Commodore 64 was very popular here at Finland, in the 80's every kid had to have one 8) Few years ago you could easily find one or two from fleamarket... though availability has been dropping now, a lot of them are put to trash / enthuastics are holding on them.

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Really can't say enough about the quality and craftsmanship of your design! Please count me in for a group buy for both PCBs, LED, and other components if possible.   8)

I think a group buy of 50 might be a little small as your project is starting to get some notice over at the lemon64 forum as well as the Prophet64 forum.   ;D

As for the SIDS, I've currently got 4 myself in addition to the one in my working C64c.

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Also just checking - anything not implemented in your PCB (compared to the standard MBHP design) can be added by the user, right? 

Yeah, I've made it work (essentially) like four Core modules stuck on a single PCB, so if you want to add AOUT or something to the IIC port or even something to the DIN/DOUT chain, all that is possible.

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I've been lurking around these forums for about a year now, and I've got to say that, Wilba, you are a MidiBox god!

Count me in for 1 base PCB and 1 CS PCB.

I've already got 4 8580s and 4 6581s are on the way... I can't wait to pulse electricity through these chips again!

Keep up the good work. It's much appreciated!  ;D

audioguru42

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Hi Wilba,

Congrats and Kudos on your fine design.

Count me in for 4 sets. What are the actual dimensions of the boards and a rough estimate of the price?

Thanks.

Regards,

RM

What in the world would you need 4 sets of PCB's for???

I mean that's 32 SIDs, I am a SID freak but 32 is overkill.

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You don't have to use eight SIDs in each, maybe you just like a nice control surface for two SIDs...

For those who are interested, here's some PDFs of the PCBs, which should be 1:1 scale:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~wilba6581/mb-6582/MB-6582_Base_PCB.pdf

9200mil x 7215mil

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~wilba6581/mb-6582/MB-6582_CS_PCB.pdf

9150mil x 6430mil (same size as front panel on PacTec PT-10 case)

As probably mentioned before, or is implied I guess, the mounting holes on these PCBs line up perfectly with the PT-10 case.

Everything is complete, I'm just not sure about the V2 and V3 regulator placements (the ones regulating the 12v and 9v supply when using the full "C64 optimized PSU" circuit), and what the best placement is for those wanting to put heatsinks on them (which might not even be required).

For the very interested, I've neatly dealt with different configurations of the PSU circuit, you can either:

a) plug in your own regulated +12v/+9v/+5v/gnd at J4 (and not use any PSU components on the PCB)

b) convert the C64 transformer's 9v AC to DC and use only one regulator V1 just like on my prototype (i.e. use only 9v supply, no 12v supply)

c) convert the C64 transformer's 9v AC to DC, add it to 5v DC to get 14v, and regulate this into V2 and V3 to get 9v and 12v supplies.

All configurations let you change the voltage per SID using SIL header/jumpers (although they should be the same voltage per pair).

Also if you don't want to use an original C64 power socket (7-pin DIN, PCB mount) you can connect via a SIL header (same deal with PCB mount MIDI sockets). However, if you do then you will have to modify your rear panel to suit. Maybe someone can find a bunch of 7-pin DIN sockets on the net, I found it too hard and just reused one from a C64.

There's only one last problem for people wanting to populate the base PCB: I've used the original DPDT switch from a C64, so people who have not salvaged bits from a C64 and just have SIDs and the PCB will not have this switch, and also may have a problem finding a switch that suits the PCB and the default rear panel (if they are making a MB-6582 "clone"  ;D  ).... so what to do? Should I find a common alternative and make it "fit"? At the time of desigining my MB-6582, I wanted to use the original switch because it feels good and it's my little nod of respect to the original C64.  :)  but if it's going to be a major hassle to a lot of people, I can change it to a common and easily available PCB mount toggle switch of some kind...

Those people organizing/joining a bulk order of front panels should discuss this more, whether this means making sure everyone has or can be given a C64 power switch (and power socket also, if they need one)... or coming up with an alternative.

I'm also still not fully certain how good a LED backlit display will look when mounted through a hole in the control surface PCB... it should work, but I'm not sure.... I may have to make one prototype of this PCB and actually try it out and spread the cost across the production PCBs... Can I assume you guys are willing to paying an extra few dollars each for knowing it will all fit together nicely?  ;D

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I just had a quick browse for alternative switches, then realised that I really need to look amongst the commonly available ones, not just one I happen to find at random on the net.  ;D

One common trait I have is to not "reinvent the wheel" and slightly modified in this case, not to go hunting for a certain type of wheel when someone already did the hard work for me.

Thanks to c0nsumer's efforts with his MIDIbox SID-NUXX project, and his almost obsessive documentation of every little thing  ;) (that's his photo of the switch!), he's already found a nice, generic toggle switch for his PCB/box combination, from Mountain Switch, which is available from Mouser (that means commonly available)

IMG_4302.JPG

For those interested, see here: http://www.nuxx.net/wiki/MIDIbox_SID-NUXX_-_Mainboard#Bill_of_Materials

But that's SPST, I want a DPDT. You don't actually need double throw, actually, but double pole is important, because you're switching on/off both the 9v AC and 5v DC current coming out of the C64 transformer. So I looked at the DPDT version of the one c0nsumer used, and it looks good...

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100726.pdf

... and then to my great happiness, discovered that the pinout and footprint actually matches the C64 one, exactly. So I guess there is a standard pinout/dimensions for PCB mount switches...

Maybe this one doesn't poke out enough through the hole in the panel, or look that great with a square hole (if people stick with my original rear panel) but at least there's a solution of some sorts to the switch problem... and maybe if there really is a standard footprint, people could buy something similar from their local electronics shop.

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Maybe this one doesn't poke out enough through the hole in the panel, or look that great with a square hole (if people stick with my original rear panel) but at least there's a solution of some sorts to the switch problem... and maybe if there really is a standard footprint, people could buy something similar from their local electronics shop.

Or they could just enlarge the hole, use a fitting panel mount switch and solder wires to the PCB.  ;D

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